I owned one of these in the mid 1970's, so loved it. Would really love to have one again to restore/look after and have it immaculate as possible. Are they hard to find nowadys without costing a fortune..? You're doing a fabulous job on that -- respect..!! Best refards; Peter Scotland
Get an electronic voltage regulator , the original ones tend to fail . Electronic ignition is good . If your front brake is poor the brake shoes can be modfied so the shoes become fully floating .
Thank you and the 6v regulator reminds me of my old 6v one I had on an old vw beetle. How does one modify the front brake shoes is it machining or filling .
@@captbarb6642 the shoes i had came from a company many years ago . They looked like they were cut at the top of the hole where the pivot goes . This allowed the shoes to slide forwards or backwards.
@@davidtrail4731 I shall have to do some research on it they are poor on the front and that would be an amazing improvement mind you it certainly stops you tailgating cars
The original front brake is poor . If you look the contact point on the shoes is only next to the cam . It is possible to remove material from the cam end of the shoes so the contact area is increased but this takes time as you need to do a bit at a time , and then install and see where the contact is
@@davidtrail4731 I agree, the front wheel brake (System Simplex) was always a weak point of the MZ. Here in East Germany, some hobbyists installed the larger brake from the MZ BK 350 if they could buy one somewhere. The MZ ETZ finally brought a model with a good disc brake, initially from Brembo, and later one developed by MZ itself. I recently saw a video where someone in Great Britain installed a Honda CB drum brake on their MZ. The old drum brake is enough for me (I'm currently in the process of getting my TS 250/1, which I bought new in 1979, up and running again. It stood in the garage for about 33 years and is in good condition again after some minor work). In my experience, the drum brake with original brake pads works best if you wipe it out well with a cloth with clean cold water (shoes and drum), then immediately reassemble it and brake very carefully (!) at walking speed until the water film has evaporated and then it threatens to suddenly lock up due to over-braking. Now you have to feel the braking point again in order to be able to dose it properly. If the original brake pads have come into contact with a solvent (perhaps to remove grease or oil), they are spoiled because they then get a glassy surface when braking and no longer work well.
I think the only way is the way I did it which means taking the right engine cover off and installing the split link under the sprocket and by turning it on the sprocket to secure the chain link. Also use welding wire or a metal coat hanger wire to feed the chain through the rubber chain guide gaiters .
Glad you got it on did you have to take the r/h engine cover off to join the chain Think it's one job that's a pain but we shouldn't have to change the chain too often..
