The engine misfiring at around 2200rpm Is due to reversion. I pulled a lot if fuel out, to try get it to rev through without misfiring. but gave up spending time on it, since wide open throttle is irrelevant at 2000rpm. To resolve the issue tuning wise, the rpm cells/rows need to be moved around/added, as happens over a very small rpm range. but end of the day there will still be a massive dip in power in this area. The correct fix its getting all the parts working together correctly, rather than trying to tune around it.
@@Garage4age for some it is, like me, trailer mechanic on daily base,but looking for the engine limits while i am not at work lmao that joke has cost me 2 engines so far
Continuing the exhaust theme, as a future idea seeing an exhaust comparison of the following: Primary diameters including under size and over size. Adjusting primary lengths and how they compare to the various formulae out there. Bonus of comparing 4-2-1 into and 4-1.
People talk about back pressure when they discuss exhaust but the real issue is gas flow inertia. Fast flowing gases through smallish pipes make the difference in scavenging, which is the primary goal of a good exhaust. This video proves just that. I was wondering if you have ever played around with ceramic coating on the exhausts? It´s probably pricey but it would help a bit.
Its pretty basic. pretty much a smallport 10.3 bottom end. modified head, ports and chambers. toda valve springs and flywheel. kelford 193b cams. rest bolt on stuff. I just created a playlist that is relevant to the build up of this engine ru-vid.com/group/PLCZDwNynUKJMA2D7m1pP9BjKKQ9sNqRVp
While watching the video I was asking myself already what's the baseline magic diameter... :D Then a saw it's a game, so I say, oem stock? (have no idea what it is :D )
Resonant frequency waves, its what makes the magic in a N/A engine but can also be a total party pooper if they works against you as you demonstrated :)
Love this channel and the testing you do! I'm an n/a VQ35DE man myself (in mid build) but this is all relevant no matter the engine, very interesting and it's great that you can show good/bad/mismatched parts and their affect too.
It’s magic krisp. Because your not Gandalf you would not know of such things. 1magnit is like the Ron weasley of the exhaust world so his magic 29” number he plucked outta thin air is now the number that every exhaust aims to be. Because as @1magnit always says it not short and thick that will do the trick but more long and thin to get right in
@@garage4k989 It ties in with the speed of sound , the rpm where you want peak torque and the length of time it takes the wave to travel along the pipe to the other end and back again about 3 times.
Interesting. Results would be even wilder in turbo motor. Misconceptions about turbo engine are wilder too. People commonly believe, that turbo intake manifold can get away with short runners, cam timing can’t have any over lap in it, a back pressure is good for turbo and so on.
I love the dyno testing. What I'd like to see is the losses when you drop the exhaust pipe. Like for example you go and tune the car on the road, it comes to drag strip time, you drop the exhaust to make it loud and fast, just running with headers but ends up going really slow, see it all the time with the V8s. They go quicker with no exhaust?
So what im getting after reading all the comments is that with big cams + overlap, you should use a 3" exhaust or else you'll have issues with reversion. What I don't quite understand quite yet is what's the difference between the baseline and new exhaust manifolds? What should I be looking for in a manifold to replicate the effectiveness of the baseline setup?
Great video. Is there a 'known formula' or general guide for choosing the right parts or is it a matter of continual test and comparison on the dyno. I guess some other engine could react completely differently to the changes than your 4age? 127 at the wheels is impressive from a 1.6 btw. Great content👍 Thanks for all the effort
There is probably something out there. but im a sucker for punishment and learnt the hard way by testing a lot of parts. most of which i done before having dyno access. Different engines will react differently to a point. But most of its pretty relevant. There is some pretty misleading info out there that keeps getting regurgitated, like small exhausts will make more low/midrange power. and bigger cams will lose midrange power.
@@Garage4age maybe the misconceptions are left over from the hotrodding days when they used carbs and didn't have such fine control over fuelling and spark timing
@@nathandamgaard3227 Yeah. I think a big one is people expect to lose bottom end /midrange when installing cams. so just blame the cams and dont pursue it any further.
@@asdfghjklkjhgfdsa69 cant say i have. I ran it up couple of days ago with open headers, some interesting results, along with bleeding ears. will be in next vid
Love the videos, very interesting to see the back to back testing of stuff, whether it goes well or not. Have you thought anything about plug gaps and plug heat range testing ? Does it make a difference? what about indexing the plug so the electrodes all face the same direction rather than just being random or is that just an OCD thing to make people feel better?
All your add ons would cripple the bottom > mid range ...short IN runners , oversize EX tube diameters and IN retard cam timing, which shows on your power runs ...as far as the EX tube size goes , a length of approx 30" from the valve head to the collector for your peak RPM , primary tube O/D of 36 odd mm ( so 1.5 " / 38 mm ) secondary tube length is any multiple of the primary and diameter is 2.94" ( 3" no worries ) this suits 4 into 1 ...2;2;1 is quite another ball game and tend to have generally a broader torque band ...and you can also mismatch EX/ IN tube lengths to flatten out torque
my try was a TRD handmade clone by friend but longer distance from 2 to 1... 38mm to 42mm to 45mm headers i m gonna make it 48 internal diameter(( 51 outside )) was hard to find the 2 meters pipe all finishing on 50mm group N , engine is carbed so no other restrictor ... thinking of another big empth in the middle for less DB ending but not sure!!!! My header has less curves but a bit violent turns... i m going to try again if hit another stage on engines head!!!! its still stock!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! all system 304 stainless when its finished!!!! excet the flange started argon on a stock 20v flange and i think its a vintage touch to stay there... engine is 16v blue ,, smallport and car ke70 sedan
Haha, I love your "10% caring...back to not caring" comments and hardcore Japanese exhaust subtitles. (as well as lots more relevant engine tuning info, as always). Excellent work. Well done.
Can you try and build an anti-reversion camber into the exhaust? I love these videos. Actuall runs on the dyno with every adjustment. Rare thing to see. 😍
Reminds me of that "trick" Hilux intake manifold you tried - all hype and name vs results. While I'm not a 4AGE owner/runner, this info will be invaluable when I start my DIY intake and exhaust on my Corvair boxer six and its messed up double 90 degree bends in the intake system. I have enjoyed your side-by-side comparisons on intake runners and bellmouths, et al. Great info.
Hi! I have a worldwide important question!! What provokes the biggest peak power losses? Catalytic converter Or Pipe + silencer? Have you ever tried this out? Would be wonderful if you ever did! Btw: love your videos ✌️
Zero difference if all are working correctly, on a four cylinder there is plenty of time for a distributor to work correctly to a higher RPM than this engine spins to. Differences observed would be down to coil energy differences and only negative differences away from "good solid ignition" if one set of coil(s) was too weak for the mixture (ratio and quality) and compression involved.
The baseline piping is fairly small, like 50 mm maximum i think. Small enough to get exhaust gases out fast and create some scavenging. 60 mm is so big that slow gases create some pressure the pulse behind can't fight. Bernoulli stuff, right : small piping diameter = fast gas with low pressure big piping diameter = slow gas with high pressure.
So you think, I used 278 intake, 266 exhaust kelford cam all dial in, oversized 1mm both inlet and exhaust valve, seat 3 angel cut, ported, hks cam gear, toda cambelt, 525cc xspurt injector, 20v itb st, sq inlet manifold adaptor, Fujitsubo extractor and 2 quarter inch exhaust, 81.5mm Toyota piston, arp head bolt, arp big end bolt , 255 warbro pump, dash 6 braided furl line, micro tech lt10c.....Do you thinks I get that much power or a little less due to cam selection a little smaller than your, cheers bro...plus supertec valve spring, titanium retainer, high oil flow pump, baffle sump...
peak should be close depending how well head work is done. as seen in this vid you may need to do some testing with the bolt ons to get midrange up. I tuned a smallport awhile ago with 193b, stock head or at least near stock. and the usual itb's, fancy looking headers, 2.5" exhaust. so very similar on paper to the turd, minus the head work. most could get out of it was 119kw. 117-118kw constantly. and was down 20kw in midrange vs turd much like seen in this vid.
Here's a strange thing. You make a number of changes to the engine all of which make it worse at low and medium speeds yet none seem to affect the max power at high revs. Any possible explanations for this.
I think the head maybe near its limit. some of the changes like the intake trumpet length had more effect when it had stock cams, which is kind of strange. all the bolt on's in baseline run are good for more power, as most of them come off my 150kw engine
128hp at engine. This one is making 125kw at wheels which is around 167hp at wheels. If you wanted to add 10% driveline loss it would be 183hp. Its efi not carby
No offense. but you are kind of missing the point of the video. Its merely pointing out that all the parts need to work together and be correct for the engine, no matter is state of modification. Also engine isn't highly modified. its a stock engine with some port work cams and valve springs.
@@Garage4age try to tune/modificate koeniggsegg, any change would result with less power, this is hard parallel, your engine as baseline has: nonstock:intake, header, and catback exhaust, if you would started with stock, and would change these 3 parts, with bigger, shorter and longer parts, best results would be in your baseline combination of parts, and you did not try with forced induction(as modification that is not in baseline ,)
@@makantahi3731 watch the video backwards? or if you watch the previous videos in this playlist i built the engine up with as many stock parts as i had hanging around, then showed what parts worked. this video was to show what parts don't ru-vid.com/group/PLCZDwNynUKJMA2D7m1pP9BjKKQ9sNqRVp
Exhaust gas going back into cylinder/intake. extreme cases can actually throw the air fuel mix back out the intake runner. you can hear the intake noise change when it does it.
Too much reversion never has a positive outcome, it means that the velocity and speed of gasses has been hindered, and it actually creates the same effect as backpressure does. Only a small degree of reversion is needed and that is to aid flow not to damage it. This is shown clearly in the test with(small degree of reversion ) vs without muffler(elevated degree of reversion), same result shown on the steeped header test. Choosing the right parts is the most important aspect of a built.
