Ross, the shims for the top of that steering box are the same as a super 55 or 550 Oliver. For what it is worth…That was a Saginaw steering box that both companies used. That ground bearing surface at the top of the input shaft is critical to smooth steering. If it is compromised the barrel shaped bearings will bind and it will steer hard to the one side. Set the input shaft preload first, and then add the front sector shaft and adjust the backlash between the input and sector. After that you can add the rear sector shaft and set the backlash between the sector shafts. Great little tractor, with family history that makes it more valuable.
You forgot the CP behind the Ford model number. If you think the oil level was neglected on that one, you should look at the old manual steering boxes on cars and trucks. Most of them never got checked while being serviced. My Dad was a stickler on us following the Texaco lubrication guide that had all fittings shown and gearbox check and fill plugs located. It even listed using Marvel Mystery Oil for the old Hudson wet clutches. Those were the days of preselector transmissions and Buicks that you turned the key on and simply stepped on the accelerator pedal to start the big straight 8 engine. Self-emptying ashtrays, 45 rpm record players, automatic chassis lubrication, cars that came with no oil filters and we sold Fram by-pass oil filter units (of course today Fram filters destroy engines due to their shoddy construction and much less filter material), and on older cars we would flush the engines by draining the oil, installing Kerosene, run the engine for 10 minutes, drain out the now black kerosene, then fill the engine with non-detergent Texaco oil. Havoline Detergent oil was developed by the Indian Refining Co. located in Lawrenceville, IL, and Texaco bought the company just to get the right to produce and sell Havoline oil. The recirculating ball steering gear was a great idea to reduce the steering effort. hope you get the timing right the first time on reassembly.
Well it was a step n the right direction . Good part was you stayed warm , don’t need the sickness this time of year . 😁 Having the red pliers on site would have made the difference 😂 . Great video Ross ,see ya tomorrow .
Great video. I have an idea for the old steering wheel. You could make it into a clock. Use sheet metal behind the steering wheel for a background. Paint the sheet the ford gray and then for a title, under the clock put "Hands of Time" . I think that would be neat.
Ross, you have got me addicted to your channel but I would really like to see you get serious about the EB. The mechanical workings of the JD combine are very interesting and I hope to enjoy the balance of your rebuild and look forward to watching you operate it this harvest season. Be safe!
Nice video Ross. Always seems you got all the parts you need, and something has to throw a wrench in the old gearbox to screw it up. But good luck with the old box. Thanks for sharing.
Well, I sort of thought you were on a roll there but I know about shims and tolerances and putting things in correct alignment. It is miserable having a sloppy steering shaft -- I had to replace the steering column in my '55 Chevy once and had to drive to Greenbrier, TN to get a used part. Even though they fit '55, '56. and '57 Chevys they are starting to get hard to find. The standard shift columns are different from the Powerglide models because of the transmission indicator. Nobody has ever re-popped them. I also had to have the steering box rebuilt with new ball bearings and it was a bit difficult to find somebody to do that as well. You do great work and are very intelligent, you need to go easier on yourself.
I have a jubilee but the only. Thing l had to do was tighten the adjustment screws to take out the slack. No rust or bad bearings like yours. Glad for the instructions though for future reference
I also get my Ford tractor parts from Steiner tractor they are about an hour or hour and a half away from where I live its nice to just run there to get parts
If you didn't have an issue, things would be abnormal LOL. But, this isn't an Oliver either. The closest to the steering on a Ford would be a Su 55 or a 550 (maybe?)
Steiner, excellent for ford and Massey parts,,,,, sux for Fiat parts. I haven’t found anyone that handles the decals, are they strictly a paint on item?
At 25:00 you are showing the top bearing/bushing assembly but are unsure how to proceed. You say you need to Google it. Next it is apparently all assembled and you are back on the other end that needs the shim pack. I need to know how to do the top bearing/busing assembly that you didn't show. Can you please give me a link or info on where I can go to see how it is supposed to be done? My identical tractor is more rusty than yours under the steering wheel in the top spring bushing area. I have the parts, but just like you, don't know how they are supposed to go together. Thanks!
I had this same adventure on my 1958 Ferguson 35. That pair of shaft bearings are just poorly conceived when so much other work went into the gears and spline shafts geometry. While there is 'a seal' at the top of it all, I put a large diameter fender washer on top of the steering wheel like a wide rain shed awning keeping more water out, because that shaft seal system will fail soon. That shim game is something, don't mangle those shaft bearings. Sadness when you realize you need to order a second set because the flimsy cages deformed while playing the shim game.
