I did the replacement of the idler and counter belt by removing only the front door and the black plate that the idler is hiding behind. Removing the black plate allows room to replace the idler and the counter belt. I then replaced the capstan belt by first removing the units top cover and then the 3 screws that holds the capstan motor mounting plate. This allows that assembly to be moved back just enough to remove the old capstan belt and put on the new belt. This worked well without having to take disassemble a lot of stuff.
Thank you for this. Didn't think in a million years that I could do this. This is my very first time doing anything like this. I love my machine, but the gentleman I bought it from wasn't doing repairs anymore. I was in a panic. Great reading comments too. This is so helpful. Thank you, thank you, thank you! Everything moves like silk now!!
Very helpful. I have a BX-300 I bought in Japan in '85 that I'm going to replace the belts on once they arrive. The deck is in immaculate condition otherwise, and it would be a shame to (1) part with it or (2) overpay someone to do basic work, so thanks for sharing your procedure. One thing I might comment on for your viewers is (you did say it was your first attempt), having had one of these for 37 years, I can say that there is no need to work around the tape door cover during the initial disassembly--can be removed on step 1. If the tape carriage is in the eject position, the door will lift up and off of the carriage chassis. Gravity and a small amount of friction are the only things holding that piece in place. Thanks again! PS--I appreciate you managed to perform that whole replacement without cutting any tie-wraps. I am hoping to keep all of them in place to preserve the original factory condition and configuration as much as possible..
Hi Deadkoby. Nice video. I don't know if you have figured out by now since your video was done in 2017 but have you figured out that there is no need whatsoever to remove the front face plate to remove the tape transport? I see, after you removed the cover, that the top set screw for the transport was missing. On the bottom, there is access through the bottom plate to unscrew the 2 set screws that hold the bottom of the transport in place. Then you could easily slide the transport back and lift it up as you did at 3:37. Just unhook the 4 harness connectors to the motherboard and side board to free it all up to remove completely from the chassis. I see when you put it back together, you didn't realize that there was a set screw for the top of the transport. It should be just "down" from center in your video (the notch you can see). The door cover simply and easily pops up and off after the door is in the open position. Again, no need to remove the faceplate. Once the transport is free to work on, the 2 little screws that hold the tape door can be unscrewed to remove it for access to the cover plate at 5:20. And that is only if you need to replace the idler wheel and or test it for torque. At 7:47 - 8:20, it's better to remove the idler wheel using the tape method so as not to lose the locking washer that keeps the idler wheel in place. Then you can take off the idler tire and replace. The scary part though is placing the assembly back on and then gently pushing the locking washer back into place but not too hard so as to brake the idler arm. You can put a screwdriver or something behind it to take up space so the idler arm doesn't get pressed down and break. You don't have to worry about fatiguing new belts. The stretch to place over the drive pulley is so minimal. I use a 90* angle pick as it fits in quite neatly and can pull the belt over the pulley. What's nice about removing the face plate is to get to the switches and recording sliders to remove and use some DeOxit to spray and clean the contacts. Good job getting your belts from Bob at Vintage Electronics. Quality belts which will prevent wow and flutter and be accurate when putting on the scope to check motor speed. The other thing you could have had fun with is desoldering and taking out the transport motor to take apart and clean the armature and brushes. I appreciate how meticulous you were.
Hello DeadKoby.... I just want to take a moment to thank you for this excellent tutorial in installing new belts and an idler tire on Nakamichi Cassette Decks. I was able to extrapolate from what you did on your Nakamichi BX-100 and apply the same technique in principle to my Nakamichi MR-2. The operation was a success and my patient (Nakamichi MR-2) now has a new lease on life thanks to you! I watched your video a few times to try and get the hang of it before actually going for it. I admit I was a bit nervous as it's not what I do on an every day basis. Your video definitely gave me the confidence to perform this procedure. I did though have to cut a few of the wire ties loose as I really didn't have much wiggle room. I was afraid I would rip something out if I didn't relieve the pressure from those taught wire bundles. Some of those tight spaces also made me feel like I had super fat fingers! LOL Well maybe I do but I'm a happy camper with a big grin on my face smiling ear to ear as I listen to the play back while I type this comment out!!!
Glad to help. It's always "fun" working on the small pieces. This was the first one of these I did, but I've done other cassette decks. In general, I fix mechanical stuff, and it's just a matter of watching it work, and putting together the puzzle.
Cool... Glad to help. This was my first adventure with this model, but just taking a good look at things usually gives you a sense of how it should work.
Extrapolated to a Nakamichi MR-1. Be careful to change the small belt on the take up wheel on the left hub. Mine was super-stretched. Thanks, DeadKoby!
Although I'm a guitar amp tech... there's almost NOBODY who will do honest work on home stereos.. so although I'm not well schooled in them, I take a shot and usually figure it out. I figure that someone out there will benefit from knowing what worked for me. There's a lot of keyboard warrior experts who tell me everything I did wrong too, but in the end, the result was good.
Very informative video, will be using this to help me fit an new belt kit to my BX125E when It arrives (hopefully in one piece) because I've read the mechs are identical? Thanks for the upload 👍
I have a new belt for a DR2. Not sure how similar the tape assembly is to the BX-100 but they look similar. The old one was broken into pieces. So I'm wondering how the belt routes and wraps around the 2 capstans. Any insight?
Unfortunately my memory doesn't last that long, but I would look up a service manual on the web site called Hi-Fi Engine. There's lots of great resources there.
how about the idler disc, it does look a bit fragile, shouldnt it be first removed off the mechanism? i gotta do that this evening and the choice aint easy - should it stay inplace and risk it breaks while forcing the new tyre on, or should it be removed but chances are the washer flies off - the trick with sticky tape may work but may not be 100% safe
@@wrecords5345 the worn idler tire was sitting on its plastic wheel super tight, there was no way I could replace it while it was sitting in-place. it took me 15 minutes of fiddling with half-rounded nose pliers to remove the washer, then I removed the complete idler wheel, and then replaced the tyre. putting the washer back onto its axle was easy. the amount of force I had to use to pull the old tyre off surprised me, the rubber was super tough. I would never try to do it the other way unless the rubber tyre was loose.
I get that a lot off so-called engineers, "it's not worth fixing" just because the either can't or can't be bothered to fix certain devices!! I wonder how many easy fixable items end up in land fill just because of defeatist attitudes??
I can't believe you're a tech because that is not how you change idler... you could have broken the idler wheel or the leg holding it by doing what you were doing and say goodbye to the deck. In most cases, there is a plastic washer in the middle of the wheel holding it down to the leg and you can simply pull it off and the wheel will come off the leg and there you replace your idler off board...
@@DeadKoby I understand that you did fix the problem and it works. BUT I do believe that an Technician would have taken the idler wheel off. I have a Nakamichi RX-202E and a 505E. The 202E was serviced for idler wheel and belt for the cassette slide, if you know anything about the Auto Reverse of this unit? Anyway the service was expensive for about 1 hrs. work, but the parts were cheap. All together it cost me 227€ or $288!! They let my player run 24hrs. and as far as I’m concerned it works GREAT!! With my newly acquired 505E I believe has the same problem. Although I am no Tech I would have one repair my player. This BX-100 isn’t a very expensive unit, so practically any Novice could replace the needed parts, and if the motor went, then thrashing it isn’t a big deal. But with the 202, 300, 505, and the Dragon, a FUKUP could lead to other issues that eventually could cause money problems. The point I want to make is that you didn’t adjust the heads or the tape azimuth!! I know by the afore mentioned players, this is very important. Does this unit have this ability? I believe the more detailed or expensive players require a higher degree of experience and equipment. I didn’t see you testing the tape speed in play either. True enough it works, but does it work according to the Manufacturers specifications? I know We Americans have a different attitude about procedures. Like you said, when putting it back together you have to do it actually in REVERSE. If you miss a step things could get Funky. Thanks for the vid.
@@mr.nobody5422 that is why your name is Mr Nobody... I was only trying to help people do the right thing so that their much loved and priceless Nakamichi can remain working...
