Namibia Untamed 7 Rivers Expedition Ep4 [Van Zyl's Pass][Khumib] [Hoarusib][Marienfluss] 

I this episode we traverse the formidable Van Zyl's Pass into the Marienfluss of Kaokoland. We find our way to the Marble Camp community camp . We see Himba settlements and get ourselves stuck in the Hoarusib river.
The next morning's sunrise doesn't disappoint and a bowl of pap and a good cup of coffee and we are one step closer to Van Zyl's pass. It's slow going and eventually I get out the car, dressed in a kikoi, t-shirt a pair of trainers, a wide brimmed hat and sunglasses and before I realise it I have overtaken our car and I'm marching purposefully down the pitted and rutted track, there are hilarious moments, when the car is far behind and I encounter a shepherd or to, completely flummoxed by this crazy lady walking by herself in the middle of nowhere. Every now and then the static of our walkie talkies breaking through with Christoph trying to find exactly where I am. We reached the community campsite that afternoon and finally begin to understand the impact that Covid 19 has had on tourism, there is nobody around, the camp is deserted, the infrastructure in disarray, it's a sad sight indeed. We continue down the riverbed until we find an ancient gnarled baobab, and decide that this is the place to make camp. It is now day 3 without a shower and yes we have wet wipes but hell man, I'm looking forward to a shower.
It's D-Day and we left our wild camp, heading for the infamous Van Zyl's Pass, situated in the North western corner of Kaokoland, from the top of the pass to the bottom is about 10km's and if you think that this will take you a few hours, think again. The pass was originally built by Ben Van Zyl and his team of twenty men, it took them 4 months to complete the road, and if you ask me, I still feel they haven't finished it. There are hardly words to describe the route. We had done our homework, we had read up about the pass, chatted to people, watched RU-vid videos and all I can say is that none of it can prepare you for the route. The first part of the track is relatively easy with you slowly creeping higher and higher until you reach the view site of the Marienfluss, incredibly beautiful, breath taking. Then we walked the first section of the pass to get an idea of exactly what we would be letting ourselves in for, flipping hell....road....what road....and why are there 2 cars lying down further down the valley over the edge of the precipice. Well there was no going back, or for that matter was there any going forward? We discussed the proposed route, built up sections of the road, set up the fire extinguisher, photographic points and switched the walkie talkies on. Slowly but surely Christoph inched over the rocks and down the pass, wheels lifting, axles twisting in time to my guts, wild gesticulations and urgent voice messages when I felt he was too close to the edge. I was shaking and filled with trepidation and in contrast he looked cool and collected. It was a slow process, many technical sections that required a cool and calm response and by early afternoon we were down and done, I cannot begin to explain the relief at having made it, it was insane. In hindsight I do think that it was not the wisest decision to do this pass on our own and would strongly advise that one should rather travel with at least another car. But we DID it!!!!!
Adrenalin finally gave way to tiredness and an apparent lack of showering as we made the last push across the dry plains to Marble community camp, a ghost of it's former self. There is something quite disconcerting about returning to a place that had been abuzz previously and now appeared, completely deserted. After checking that the showers worked we decided to spend the night, happy to feel safe and clean and entirely ready for a generous gin and tonic. It was so good to sit and reflect about the day, the challenges, our respective experiences of the pass and how sad it was to see a thriving camp so empty and devoid of life. Some scuffling in the river bed parallel to the site caught our attention, presuming it was a hyena we were instead relieved to see the sight of sad looking dog, hoping for a scrap. One left over lamb chop and we had a new friend for life and a diligent nightwatchman. We are beginning to see more signs of the impact of Covid 19 on these communities, who had previously relied heavily on tourism as a source of income, the guest register is a stark reminder, as I count a total of 30 guests including ourselves since the beginning of the year. It was to become more apparent as we left the camp and headed for the Hoarisib river and Marble Community Camp our next camp.
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