friendly TIP: But to help prevent the stuffy smell in the first place, is just before parking the car for a long period of time, turn OFF the A/C, but leave the fan on. It will help evap the moisture or condensation buildup. Also, yes, Lysol does work.
If you put the thermostat warmer it would open. It is trying to meet the setting in the car but outside is too hot. So set it warmer and it will open to allow warmer air in.
Thanks for the video! Question, considering air flow, after air goes thru that intake, doesn’t it go to the cabin filter? Then the evaporator? So like will that stuff actually make it to the evap core, cause that’s where all the musty smells usually formulate. If I’m right
I drive an Audi Q5 and have that funky scent upon starting the AC, but goes away in about 2 minutes after. At first I thought the cabin air filter just wanted to replace, but I did that and still got that scent. Thanks for this.
My Q5 just have a nasty smell, it is like when you drive by the farm. Everything is good until I turn on the AC, I don't think it is just a water condensation. I have sprayed the Klima Cleaner from nextzett, Lysol, and it all lasts 2 days and then it is back. I have tried this method and also removing the cabin filter and spraying it into the duct with evaporator core, but still no good results. I am wondering what to take apart to check and clean, pretty desperate with this.
I did this to my A5 a while back with Lysol. About a week later the fan motor quit working. I think the liquid caused a small amount of rusting on the motor stater, just enough so that it was no longer making good contact. FWIW
Man, I read this comment and thought before I did anything and thought “okay, I probably won’t use Lysol then. good tip” then went to advanced auto parts and bought some ac pro stuff and did everything correctly by the bottle. Which is essentially what he does here. Not even 24 hours later the blower motor on my a5 quit working and I had to replace that, and the resistor for it… couldn’t believe it.
Damn! Glad I read these two comments before I tried this solution! I’m gonna get the flap open with car off and just wipe everything down with a combination of water, vinegar and hydrogen peroxide spray (not into breathing in chemicals).
Someone posted online in Audi forum that he sprayed foam in the same vent. So the foam goes into the coil and cleans it. Isn’t that risky? My mechanic told me he would not advise doing that. Because he’s worried about sensors inside the evaporator box.
Compressor? Remove the belt, remove the 4 bolts 2 for hot and 2 for cold. Remove the 3 bolts holding the compressor in place and it should fall right out! Smack the new one in!
Hey there, I was hoping you would read this comment and maybe give me some advice. I have a 2011 mk6 GTI DSG GEN 1 2.0 tsi. Its stage 3 with a K04, Forge intake, Downpipe, twin Intercooler and a DSG tune. Ive been getting a P2096 Code Post catalytic fuel trim too lean - Bank 1. Coupled with that when we run logs we can clearly see (and feel) the car Requesting less fuel (From 160bar mapped to 130barRequested). Why on earth is my car requesting less fuel and putting it into a lean condition when the map is telling it to push 160bar fuel pressure? I can feel the car sputter once or twice and then lose power as it runs lean. Uusaly only at 5000RPM and above. High RPM. and its also intermitent. Some runs it holds 160 through all the gears at WOT and other times it falls on its face. Any input would be helpfull. Regards Wade
It's also a good thing to remove all that leaves and other gunk that rots and retains moisture on the body. All this crap will end up blocking the drains, it will cause water to enter the passenger compartment through the ventilation and then it will be trouble with the electrics and electronics.
I was taking off just now and my car freaked out and bucked and cut out a few times and then eps, parking brake, and traction warnings came on, got a mass air code, car won’t accelerate and it’s making a loud sound on light acceleration like air is blasting out of the engine. Any ideas?
I figured it out. I had to limp it home no choice but kept it out of boost. It was the charge hose off the bottom of the turbo. But when i originally assessed it (i couldn’t get fully under the car on the side of the road) it felt like it was still attached.
@@Jcarney87 ....yeah...ive been driving boosted vehicles since the mid '80's....i had a '79 turbo mustang that was given to me because it didnt run right....had v6 Buicks and on and on since......so...yeah.....that 'symptom' is pretty plain to diagnose. Most people dont know it can blow the turbo
@NaptownTuner Hey Jared, my name is Cohen and I sent you an email on 7/19/21, I was asking for help with an urgent request. If you could respond I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks!
Hey did you ever get that FUEL compact Drill??? that you bought??? Tina needs to get that done for you! Obviously this is NOT your fault or responsibility! I'm curious if Tina had a change of heart, because you gave out the store info that did you wrong... Im sure people called!!!
