Bless you mate. I mean WOW. This answers the question I asked on your quiver video about universal tips for making primitive cordage better then I hoped. I hope I can make some strong enough for a bow string or at least a bowdrill. Neither of which were used by the Australian Aborigines in my part of Queensland. So I am trying to see if it can even be done with native plants here. I think that this video will really help me and if so could help all Australian Bushcraft. I hope you stay safe Mate
Agreed, damp fibers help a bunch. I've found that on some plants like yucca and sable palm using the dead dried leaves for cordage works really well. They need to be soaked in water first but once the cordage is finish its way stronger than using live plant material. Its Steiner en
I am also left handed and i learned a trick years back.... when a right handed person is doing something and i need to see it from a left handed perspective i would watch the demonstration in a mirror. works every time. I used it a lot on Bob Ross Painting demonstrations and his brush strokes always veered off to the right. Look at it in a mirror and now it veers off to the left. As they say "Left handed people are not all Right" :)
Hi Dave! Just a quick point on perception. If someone is having difficulty with watching you lefthandedly demonstrate a skill and cannot make the transition to righthandedly performing the skill, have the person view the video in a mirror. everything in the left hand on the video will be in the right hand in the mirror. Hope this helps! Keep on keeping on, brother! Rick
cordage is best when the materials are cut and dried first then wet before actually making the cordage that way the material making up the twist when drying doesn't become loose, I would leave a piece of that tree siting in the woods and come back to it, the layers (outer and inner bark) may separate on their own as it ages/drys out, but I understand you trying to use the tree up.
you can split the bark easier by sticking your knife into a log upright, and using the now vertical blade for splitting the bark. ray mears makes great cordage in "4 seasons".
Thanks for the properties info makes it a lot easier to look for as my area is on the other side of the world. Looking at the comments about bindings I take it don't bother combining pieces for strength just use as is eg ( shelter lashings )
A one foot piece of yucca with a sheet bend in between the middle was string enough to allow me to do multiple pull ups without breaking. I'm a feather weight, but impressive cordage none the less
you mention the need of your knife being sharp, the point you used your knife to scrape off remaining bark instead of shaving it, would the back side of your knife work for that? to save yourself your knife edge, and the time to resharpen/hone it again? or is the sharp edge still necessary even when scraping?
What brand knife did you use in this video im new to bushcrafting and i figure if a knife is quality enough for you to use in the field its gotta be good quality any consideration to this comment would be appreciated. Thanks !
As usual, very informative video demonstrating knowledge every woodsman can use. In my case however, it re-enforces the correctness of my decision to purchase enough tarred bank-line, para-cord, and climbing rope, to most likely last the rest of my life. ;~}>
God that's a beautiful knife. Been comparing it to pics in your store. Is that the Pathfinder Scout knife from BHK? By the way, if Iris took those pics (in the store), tell her they're *outstanding*.
I have found that just using the bark by separating it into long strands without making it into cordage is more useful because it's faster to make and stronger because there is no splice. just another option...
If you can make good cordage from the wild that is strong, and harvest at least 1500 ft, make a wood shuttle and gauge, that can enable you to make a hammock that can keep you off the ground and safe... I will make the attempt to do this out in the wild as an experiment... Kephart Style!
hi just a quick question why didn't you strip the outer bark first then take the inner bark off the tree, is it because the age ot the tree bark makes that too hard or just another way of doing it and if so what is the advantage ?
Hey Dave, do you have any videos with natural source recommendations for the northwest US region? A lot if the plants and material sources you mention aren't seen around here (Idaho)
Isnt a withy a flexible branch? I politely disagree with it being not good for traps and bow drill, I have tested them for both and they generally do a better job because of reasons mentioned above
Surprised you didn't use the dull side of the blade to scrape the inner bark clean... I've been doing that since I can remember, I always had shitty knives as a kid, cheap blades that dull with minimal use, plus I usually had one knife for everything so a good edge was not to be sacrificed... :)
if your going to strip it would be better to use the back bone of the knife and save you edge as much as you can , wouldn't it and on that bark you using try this take a 3/8s wide piece and turn the outer bark in and use thumb pressure and you some times can separate it and use thumb and finger to strip to your fibers depending on how young the piece is
I have a Doubt where I can see based on their product that sells Survival team, which team would need to buy for introducing me to this survival. the question is which knife is best and how much, 1 or 2. which backpack to buy and to put him to have a computer basic, intermediate or expert. greetings and hope and have time and answer me or show me where I could see that. regards abg
Dave, FYI. In one of your other videos you poopooed the corkscrew on a swiss army knife. However, it has at least one very important use, and that is for undoing knots. The point can be used for getting into the knot without damaging the cordage. This will provide leverage for undoing the a stubborn knot.
