I bought a MV1C not too long ago after a Smokemonster recommendation. I have been sitting on this for awhile but it looks like that wait accidentally paid off!
SWEET! I just got a MiSTer last monday and I've fallen in love with Neogeo. ALthough looking at this, I'm thinking of getting an MV1-F, adding stereo, and using as supergun instead. I can then use cabs and other PCBs too.
Yeah, I was really impressed. I mean, each individual MV1C board will perform slightly different, but that's still the best quality I've ever seen from ANY Neo Geo.
I’ve been looking for something like this for years. Based on all of the crappy options available, so have others it seems. Any conversion that’s any good is expensive. Really excited for this.
Really cool project! I'm looking forward to assembling one. It would be awesome if that acrylic panel under the MVS was replaced with an EL panel for illumination.
$350 is indeed a lot of money, but this is a niche product lovingly crafted by hand. The value is there, as it's half the price of its closest competitor (OmegaMVS +Tianfeng AV board).
The price really is in the prep work, painting and assembly and testing for avram. I asked him to offer an unfinished kit with out an mv1c with all the parts and an a case that still needs to be sanded in painted and he has it up for 170!which I think is completely fair
Bob, not sure what all you've done, but you've made an EXPONENTIAL leap in quality this week. I've always been a fan of your work, but WOW you nailed it this week! Absolutely great production value. I'm not really in the market for a consolized MVS but this is a neat project. I have one made from a B board done in a super unique way, which is MUCH more compact than the C. Here's the super secret tip: If you aren't afraid of desoldering and soldering about 100+ pins, you can desolder the stock board coupler connectors and instead use board to board pin header connectors to couple the boards. You flip the cartridge slot board of an mV1B onto the back side of the main board. Use PCB feet to keep the main board off of the enclosure and you end up with the absolute most compact MVS board possible. It's like where real estate is expensive, you build vertically instead of horizontally. It takes some thinking and looking but you'll realize that back to back makes the pins align correctly, you don't even need a probe to check connections because they are what they are with no strange routing. Flip em and stick em together and you've created the most compact MVS known to man.
Thank so much for the compliment! I try to make these videos enjoyable to watch, even if the product isn't for you. I've seen the B-board customized ones and they look awesome. LOL, looks like a TON of work though!!!
@@RetroRGB Yeah, it was the most intense or at least involved soldering/modding job I've ever done and I'm really into soldering. I'll give you a glimpse into my insanity: I did this without a desoldering gun, all desoldering braid and a hand pump solder sucker. :)
as an owner of an "glued in hdmi" MVS i appreciate this video as there are now more options. I will say that my MVS with that glued in SCART to HDMI box really isn't that bad at all and i've played it for countless hours without noticing any lag in both SCHMUP and Fighting games. The build quality on mine was mediocre at best and thankfully this new option looks superior in many ways. great video, thank you!
@@random_an0n no cope. simply put the modern mechanisms to convert the neo geo video signal to component easily didn't exist easily 10+ years ago (ie: openmvs). really wasn't as bad as the video made it out to be. did what we could with what we had. consolizing these been a thing for quite some time.
I am a little late to the party but THANKS for this video. Love neogeo but trying to find a cabinet local at a decent price is not working out. I think I will pick up board and a kit and start playing and work on a cabinet of my own when I get my vpin project finished!
Have one of these. Bought it recapped with neobiosmasta 4.0 and its just awesome. Lightweight, small footprint, cute looking, top class RGB, what more can you ask!?
It's not really designed for that. Tian has a supergun coming out this year and the HAS or MiniGun are also excellent choices if you'd like a modern supergun with good features.
@@AltimaNEO this basically turns the MV-1C into a MVS Console, a 'supergun' is intended to be plugged straight onto the jamma edge and act as an interface for power/AV/controls etc
This is awesome, especially considering that I just bought an MV-1C about a week ago, hoping that a “good” solution would come out soon! The fact that I already have the Genesis HD-Retrovision cable makes this a serious contender for me! I have to ask, though - why not just make the case a tad taller to make room for the stand-up battery socket/heat sink? I’d feel bad about making permanent modifications to a board if it doesn’t have any. At least a stand-up battery holder would be a minimal change.
Good question. The main reason is that removing the heatsink and bending the audio amp is 100% reversible. As long as you're careful and save the heatsink, you can fully restore it some day if you ever wanted it 100% original.
I had the same thought when I first saw the case but avram did a couple of remodels to miss the heatsink and it just thought everything out of whack. That lead me to the data sheet for the amp and then we also tested it using 12v and mono out for a few days in a cab and with a supergun. We could not get that amp to heat up at all. I am willing to venture that the heatsink is overkill but also that it was intended to prevent the thermal shutdown that might happen if it was running 14 hours a day in an arcade in 100 degree heat. Your question is 100% fair it it was a decision we didn't make without examining all other possibilities. the heatsink can be reinstalled if you ever felt like you wanted to run this in a cab.
Seeing as this is open source, I really hope someone with the skills can make a version compatible with the MV1A boards. I hadn't been able to find a consolized solution I'm happy with so I just use a retroelectronik supergun with a PC ATX PSU and it's a mess lol
I would like to see something similar but an option to use USB based joysticks. There are adapters available in the wild so not a big problem but an option to just have it part of the Open MVS would also be cool. I mean, if I didn't already have an original Big Red Neo cab and a SuperGun I already use with USB sticks...
Amazing video, now I want to consolize my MV1C but since Avram is not taking orders anymore, is there a chance you can list all the pieces that the DIY kit includes? I can't find the entire list anywhere and I want to take a shot and try to consolize my board by myself.
I'm new to this but interested on this setup. How do we add coin to play the game? I don't see any coin button on the kit (only saw power and reset button).
I'm a newbie in the scene, i wanna get into it, one quick question, maybe stupid one, can aes cartridges be played on an mvs? If possible what i need except physical adapter?
Is there anywhere you can buy everything this kit has to offer WITHOUT an included MV1C and also WITHOUT the case? The closest I see on the site linked still has the case included (finished or unfinished). I have a MV1C I consolized myself and I would like to gut out all my existing questionable parts and reuse my case and MV1C. Basically I want the SuperGun/Power/Audio/Video/DB15 parts from this kit only...
Where do consolized MVSs sold on aliexpress fall on the quality scale of the alternatives that were mentioned here (such as from seller Time Harvest)? These don't have HDMI output, so no issue with a poor implementation of that but they do have RGB. I do like that some of them have Saturn or USB controller ports as an option.
The original models had safety issues with the RGB sync line. They've supposedly been corrected, but I haven't tested personally. Also, I'm not sure where they fall in the quality department...I've seen some look fine, but others pretty terrible.
Tengo algunas dudas. Impresora usada ?las piezas son algo grandes Para una ender 3 pro. Y como se ubicaron las partes para ser impresas .tienen cierta dificultad y me gustaria saver la manera más adecuada de ubicarlas para imprimir. Y la otra duda. No se detalla como sacas los 5v y los 12 v si solo se muestra 1 solo adaptador. ?? Me encantaría hacer el proyecto pero tengo esas dudas. Gracias
12v isn't used at all with this kit, as it's only needed for mono audio - This kit uses its own audio amp on the stereo circuit. Plenty of people are printing their own cases and posting about it on twitter and Avram has been retweeting: twitter.com/avramce
The OpenMVS only outputs RGB, so you'd either need a TV with an RGB SCART input, or component video input (not composite video). There's other ways to play Neo Geo, but the OpenMVS will require those. Cable are here: www.retrorgb.com/genesisrgbcables.html
@@RetroRGB Thanks. Just got the circuit parts the other day in the mail. Great tutorial. Ironically, the only trouble I had was getting the op amp heat sink out (mine was in good). Got it working great. Now I just need to get a case for it..... and a Neo Geo controller 😁
You can download the files and make the boards yourself. If you're not putting it in a case, you might just want to look into a cheap supergun. The MiniGun is good and the creator of this mod will be releasing their own inexpensive supergun soon.
@@RetroRGB thanks for your reply, I will look into downloading the files and try to make the video circuit my self. I'm looking to make a really cheap cmvs. I already own a aes and a mister. Just think it would be great to be able to use a cheaper mvs to play on original hardware. Thanks I appreciate all your work! 👍🙂
Anybody have much experience with the cbox mvs units from the time harvest guy on aliexpress? I've heard good things things and apparently he's corrected the sync issue so it's safe to use with everything now. I'm thinking about getting one of those because $350 is a good price but I haven't been able to find any extensive reviews of them
Well, you're welcome to fork the project and add that version. It would raise the cost quite a bit though, so it really made sense to just suggest people use HD Retrovisions if they need component: castlemaniagames.com/products/hd-retrovision-genesis-ypbpr-component-cable?ref=w9_zngec1o_
I'd just choose any Genesis 2 cable option that fits your setup: www.retrorgb.com/genesisrgbcables.html Using a CRT with component input? Get the HD Retrovision cables. Do you want to play on a flat-panel? Either get the retrovision or SCART cables and a scaler. Don't want to bother with a scaler? Just get a RAD2x. Hopefully that'll get you started!
I have the original wooden analogue cmvs- got it really cheap from a guy looking to get rid of his whole collection fast. I am thinking due to the rarity of that console I should buy one of these and not use the Analogue for the sake of preservation of a rare console?
Good question: 100% safe - As long as you use a proper Genesis 2 cable. I mean, the same goes for actual Genesis consoles, which is why it's fair to say the RGBs output is totally safe. ...and since the audio output is coming from Tian's circuit and not the arcade board edge, that's 100% safe as well.
AES games are FAR more expensive, so Neo Geo fans often collected the MVS arcade versions. Also, the video output quality with these MV1C boards is excellent, while many AES revisions output poor quality video. Some even have the L&R audio channels reversed. So, while in theory, getting the console version designed for home use SHOULD be the easiest answer, it absolutely isn't.
@@RetroRGB I learned recently that my 3-6 AES (that I spent half my soul on) had reversed stereo. It was very easy to spot in Samurai Shodown II; when you're tossed across the screen and land flat on the ground, the sound of you landing would come from the complete opposite speaker side. I Just moved the legs of two resistors to connect to the correct LR channels by the headphone jack, and I've got perfect stereo now!
There's some potential safety issues with the sync line on the aliexpress kits. The component video out should be totally safe though. I'm not sure if the quality will be as good as this, but I don't think it's "bad".
You can get an RGB to S-Video converter that would work with it. Adding a chip to convert the signals would have added a lot of cost to the design though.
@@osgeld The efuse I built into the circuit cuts the power and protects the system from overvoltage and reverse polarity? This isn't an eBay hack job. I thought about those things.
I’m sincerely curious why anyone would go to so much trouble when there is MAME. I would understand an argument about original hardware being plug and play and not needing to go to the trouble of configuring an emulator but if you are going to the trouble of all these hardware modifications and custom cables and adapters, I am having a hard time understanding what is the draw? I’m open to opinions, why do you guys who think this is awesome like this?
This product is specifically for people who want to use original MVS arcade hardware and make it look like a home console. If that's not something that interests you, this isn't for you.
I guess my thought would be that I don't consider hardware modification "trouble". For me, the hardware is the hobby, sometimes even more so than the games themselves. I think if you just want to play some games, there are always much easier ways. I can wax poetically about the physical connection and tactile experience that hardware gives or the feeling of accomplishment I get from making or improving something. However, if that isn't your thing, nothing I say is really going to change that; nor am I trying to.
@@zdthn I can appreciate that. So somebody might do this because tinkering with hardware is fun. Like in the way that It feels good to build your own PC?
@RetroRGB my question is WHY somebody would want to do this. I can understand that the kit for turning your MVS into a console is for people who want to turn their MVS into a console. I was just wondering why somebody would want to do that. Sounds like it’s a kind of niche tinkering thing? Or maybe is your point that if I don’t understand then I will never understand?
@@AtomFry yep. You learn a lot about how the things that you grew up with work and how to fix them. I also think that lots of us like playing on a crt so hardware or something like this can allow you to do that easily when compared to emulators and mame. I mean most of us love sega because of all their faults and crazy hardware decision.
The 3d printed case should just be taller so that you don't have to remove the heat sink and cut that amp. It's completely fine to leave it in for the mod so why should the case, which is only made for aesthetics, be the thing that forces you to cut the original hardware?
Well, as I showed in the video, you can just remove the heatsink and put it back at a future time. Also, if you're consolizing the board, that amp won't even be powered on. Why design a case around something that's not being used? Besides, the nature of this being open source, is you can always change the design, or even just add a hole to accommodate the original heatsink. Was I not clear about all that?
@@RetroRGB you're the one that always says he loves no cut mods so this is pretty hypocritical. I see no reason to remove it if it does not need to be removed. I get that it can be reinstalled later but really it doesn't need to be removed so just make the top of the case a few mm taller.
Did you even watch the video? Removing the heatsink is 100% reversible. It's the absolute definition of a no-cut mod: Just use a soldering iron to heat the pins instead of snipping and you could always put it back. Same with bending the amp - just carefully bend it back. You've GOT to be trolling. There's no way you actually watched the video and don't understand that.
@@RetroRGB of course I watched the video dude... I wasn't complaining about your video. I watched it twice back to back to make sure I got all the info I needed because I wanted to do this with a mvs for a very long time. I only made a comment on the fact that I do not like how this kit is plug and play with the exception of 2 wires like you said and then requires you to remove a amp just because the case is to short. It doesn't make sense to me. Imagine the amount of these amps that will be thrown out. This is a 30 year old arcade system. If removing it is not needed than why is this mod encouraging it?????
@@RetroRGB and why are you coming at me like some child. I made a comment and then you replied. My comment was just an opinion on how this kit could have been just that little bit better. I'm not some troll just because I have an opinion or is that what you really think of your viewers who care to leave input in your videos?
I've been wanting to consolize my MVS bit unfortunately it's a MV1F not MV1C 😞 Edit: I reached out to the team and a member said he's been working on an MV1F consolization for a friend and, now that the PCBs for this project are finalized, is going to see if he can integrate them with that project. Hoping down the line that we'll see an official DIY product for this as with the MV1C if everything works out! I've included the pictures I was linked showing the prototype: imgur.com/a/42Kjvto
@@RetroRGB the JNX is really high quality, I got one of the last ones he made in the last batch. He did a full restoration on the PCB, modded to my spec, and the output via OSSC is crystal clear with no artifacts, and it's super solidly built. Way better built than the Omega I had years back (which was fine, but my controller ports weren't solid, and I had to repair those a few times). @Jazza, while he *might* make some more in the future, (he's never said he's done done), the current list probably won't be fulfilled until early 2022, and then if he opens again, it'll be another year+ after that for him to get through those 40-50. While I waited almost 2 years for mine, and for ME, that was worth it, it's not viable for most people. He has a full time job, and orders are closed until they're not. (This is in NO way a criticism of how he runs things, he was super responsive and awesome to deal with, and very open about timelines the entire time I was pending... he's just one guy with a passion for Neo, and no desire to turn it into a full time gig, which I respect).
The Omega's case is beautiful, so it wins there. The video output is the same as with the Omega + replacement board, but better than the Omega's original video output board. BUT, the Omega replacement board doesn't offer composite or component video, so you might still consider the original "better". I honestly like them both and there's no wrong answer as to which to pick. More info: www.retrorgb.com/omega-mvs-review.html
