NES HDMI no-cut mod - LumaCode for the Nintendo Entertainment System 

Once he can get it all Squared maybe make a internal make the parts smaller to internalize the rasberry pie and hat added to it inside and then have a hdmi port that can be added anywhere into the system

Design and make your own lumicode stickers.. for giveaways

would there be a way to directly output rgb with this?

Ruined a old console valueble in original condition only

@@iulianispas8634not true, if the mod is done properly. It adds value, instead if you do it wrong, or looking for just an og experience. Guess you cant sell your stock ness for 100$, bet this will sell for that price, no matter the yellowing.

@@ClosestNearUtopia my stock Nes and Famicom have a micro Av mod a transmiter board hiden under the mobo no holes( the mode can be undone easy) and stay proud in a glass display case . I play nes on a Famicom clone with wireless controlers and hdmi 33£ aliexpress . Unfortunetly the clone dont work with everdrive n8 , i have multi cartriges most important games . Im sorry but i find your mode over done.

​@@iulianispas8634lmao no way. This is way more valuable than a stock NES, which is only worth around $50 anyway.

Not enough lag for me to notice, but I'll do some proper tests soon

If u weren't so far away, I'd ship you one of my ntsc models so you can send to copper dragon. Maybe it'll be available eventually. Cheers bud

WhyDontWeHaveBoth.gif

@@TheRetroChannel You could do that, but it's not right. 🤣🤣🤣

Yeah, I believe Nintendo attempted to make it run around the same speed as NTSC. It ends up being slightly faster but I guess it's better than the usual 20% slower most games suffer from when running on PAL

In fact the signal is digital in nature, but it uses 4 different "digits" instead of the usual 2 ("low" and "high"). These signal can be losslessly transfered and processed, so no additional noise is introduced.

A lot of digital coding and modulation schemes use multiple steps of amplitude and/or phase to store data in a way that can be carried robustly within limited bandwidth. The idea behind LumaCode is that all the supported consoles and computers have a small and predefined color palette, so there's no need to send explicit RGB or YCbCr color information for each pixel but only its palette index, which is a mere 3 to 6 bits. Embedding that into a monochrome CVBS signal makes it easier for scalers like the OSSC to support it through their existing video interfaces. A capable converter samples the LumaCode signal at the required dot clock, decodes the encoded palette index for each pixel and produces an output pixel with the known color associated with that index. 🙂

In this case the ground wire is used as a shield ground, minimises unwanted interference

@@TheRetroChannel if you want the ground to act like a shield, you have to use a shielded cable for that.

You don't need any of that stuff. Once audio support is added you'd just use composite video + audio to the appropriate scaler, whether it's the RGB2HDMI or an OSSC, etc. Maybe they'll figure away to internalize the scaler and then you add an HDMI port. In fact, I'm sure someone can already do this.

1920x1080 but I believe other resolutions are possible depending on the pi being used

@@TheRetroChannel Oh! that's amazing, thank you.

PAL

🪒🔪👾

You're fun

So can your cell phone, or one from 10 years ago, or my PC from 30 years ago, so what's your point? Emulation is not the real thing, if you don't want a console, don't get one. Or just complain that an FPGA renders it obsolete or whatever...

Was there another myth? The capacitor does store a charge for a while after the NES is powered off. I've tested it myself and it has around 12V after powering off. You can easily confirm this just turning the NES off, unplugging the power cable and pushing the power button. The LED at the front will briefly light up as the cap discharges

@@TheRetroChannel And does it really matters if i discharge the capacitor when you only feed the NES with 9 volts? That capacitor can not have more than 25 volts. Totally safe to touch.

@fu1r4 Safe to touch yes. But as that cap is before the power switch, it has no discharge path and will hold a charge for some time. Normally it wouldn't matter but when working inside the RF modulator, it's possible to accidentally short it. Again not a big deal if you're expecting it, but it could be a nasty surprise for beginners

Imagine modding the console without discharging the cap. You have a few wires dangling around, some of them already connected to your RGB mod or whatever and maybe one of them already connected to the GND of the console. Suddenly one of the wires touches the capacitor leg and sends 12V through your expensive mod or other parts of the console. You'd be having a very bad day.

Did you watch the whole video? Once they add audio support you'll just feed composite audio and video to a scaler. Also, you can easily fit the RGB2HDMI inside the console or just attach it to the back or side and run a very short composite cable to it.

@@brandogg the RGB2HDMI will still require power though no? Anyway as of now this is feasable and since you don't have to take out both CPU and PPU to leech their datas into an external board it is cool, the whole go inside the RF unit stuff is kinda bad though, unless you just cut out the traces, this isn't too bad. It's nice to see modern solutions for older systems and get pixel perfect gaming. Having installed both a PSDigital and a Hidef-Nes in my retro consoles it's really changing the game. We still need a better light gun solution though.

So I guess I should just throw out my OSSC and limit myself to tubes that could die at any point, and then I'm stuck searching for another tube TV as they get rarer and rarer? Yeah, makes total sense. Some of us own 10+ game systems and would like them on the same screen. I have a 45" HDTV in my bedroom and a 65" in the den, but I HAVE to play retro games only on my 25" CRT according to you? Nah. I have a spare NES for that, just for light gun games. Don't even bring up emulation. The least you could do is shill the MISTer for people who want to play accurately on a modern screen.

Ok we'll be here following the project's positive progress, you can stick to your 12" CRT and reading glasses. I'll be projecting my NES on a 100" wall.

@@DeAthWaGer I do that with a 150" screen yet the graphics look proper as the should look and not over the top sharp and fake so yeah you carry on with your fake graphics LOL 😂

Yes. #EmulationIsForQuitters

Lmao