1. Place socket onto bolt 2. Insert breaker bar into socket 3. Secure breaker bar against a sturdy part of the vehicle preventing rotation of the bar. 4. Enter the cab of the vehicle. 5. Insert key into ignition 6. Turn key to engage the starter motor.
my crazy daughter keeps telling me i have too many tools and won't buy me any for Christmas or Father's Day, I have failed in her training that there is no such thing as too many tools so sad.
Crank pulley bolt trick, brace your ratchet/breaker bar against the chassis or ground and bump the engine over with the starter. The engine will turn over and break the bolt loose.
While a big impact CAN (not always) be good to remove the bolt, that tool is pretty vital for getting precise torque specs for reinstallation! I know most people just send it for the install, but going by manufacturers designated torque makes me sleep better at night. 😅
maybe the implication here is that someone installed that bolt with an impact gun too tight? i would tell you that is incorrect, crank pulley bolts lock themselves in place as the engine is ran and heat cycled, even if torqued properly to a much lesser torque setting. this is why i got a bigger and more powerful brushless impact gun and also have a 4 foot name brand breaker bar, i also use a torch when those fail.
Yes. There's one channel which I won't name. The guy had slacked up on tightening down a bolt on a MiniCooper. It was a crank bolt I believe it was. He torqued in down to some high number and he thought it was enough. But the specs called for another 1/2 turn after reaching the initial torque value. He didn't do the final angle torquing procedure. Within that year the Mini Cooper was back due to problems of the bolt not being tight enough. The guy learned his lesson. Follow what the spec say to do.
@@Rhaspun Probably it had issue with the timing chain. The bolt tightness is the only thing that keeps the chain sprocket from spinning freely on the crankshaft.
Depending on the layout of your engine bay and the direction your crankshaft pulley turns, you can get on there with a breaker bar, hook up the battery make sure the breaker bar will leverage on something solid (battery, frame etc), crank the car and the motor will break it loose. Shout out to scotty kimer. Worked like a charm on my car.
You can also check the car up use a long extension and drop the weight of the car on the extension.... 😂🎉🎉 First grade on F-22 h22 Honda Accord Honda prelude been there done that
Master tech, many years in a shop, and ya know I’ve never thought about covering the radiator fins with cardboard. I will use this from now on. Thank you😂
When I was pulling the harmonic balancer on my first car 42 years ago, Chiltons said to remove the bolt and use a harmonic balancer puller. I cranked and cranked and one of the bolts shot out and hit the radiator and left a dent. The thing, they didn't tell about was the washer under the bolt! There was so much oil down there that I didn't see it. So the cardboard is an extra precaution.
Fist time I started doing this was pulling off clutched fan fins off of pickups and diesel stuff. If I can fit a sheet of closed cell foam in, I do. You can also keep a piece of plain wallboard/hardboard around. But heavy duty double wall cardboard is a lot easier to cut.
@bobinthewest8559 similar to the razor sharp access holes in a door panel. I love replacing window regulators. You don't really need skin on your arms.
I was struggling with the strut bolts on my LeSabre and ended up with a 3/4" breaker bar with a little "helper" only to find when they came loose, they were splined into the knuckle! But, by golly, I got it done. Ignorance is bliss ;-)
I reflexively squint every time I see a breaker bar bend like that. Before I got an impact, I used to put a jack under the breaker bar handle to break CVC nuts loose. Every now and then, the bar would slip and come out at mach-jesus 😂😂
@FayeHadley there it is, right before the win! BTW I got the high-power 1/2" milwuakee cordless impact. It will rotate the earth around a bolt if it's stuck. Changed my life.
To add, weighted sockets are more efficient because the robust walls allow for less flex/movement in the socket which is where the torque output is lost.
Pay more attention. Her on screen caption literally says she tried a weighted socked already and it didnt work. Why even spend the time to comment at all if you dont even fully watch the video? 🤦🏻♂️
Actually, if you put a socket on the bolt and use a long breaker bar against the ground, then kick the starter for a second and it'll jolt the bolt loose. Works every time.
I've seen that method fo wrong before, and cause serious damage, so from past PTSD I just don't do that. I'm sure this is one of 100 comments I'll be responding to like this.
Yeah, I am NOT fooling around with that. Especially when it's super tight to begin. Plus with many newer cars, you have to rip out half the engine bay to even get to this point so that's a no go to begin with.
Don’t forget… If you’re a DIYer, like myself, with limited space, Autozone,Advance and a few other stores loan out tools. Just keep in mind.. you have to “buy” it first. Basically their insurance if you don’t bring it back, damage it, etc. The you’ll get a full refund when you take it back without breaking it. If you’re a professional, like Faye, then definitely invest in the unique or specialized tools you know you’re going to need to use!! Great videos Faye! Keep up the good work!!
Well done! Those things are evil. The one on my Honda Legend was really hard .. I bought the crank holder thing then used a 4 ft breaker bar and then overate for a week to get up to 170lbs. The bar deflected about 20 degrees and the bolt popped. Most satisfying noise ever. Plus glad it wasn’t the bar breaking or one of my bones.
I knew I'd find a comment about the Honda ones. Those things will save your bacon. Lol I've only HAD to use mine a couple times, but man... I'd have never gotten those off without it I don't think. Not without an amount of effort and time that nears the ridiculous anyway.
Doing head gaskets on an Acura Legend almost 20 years ago, I did the breaker bar and bump the starter trick. Dangerous, very. Got the crank pulley bolt loose, yes.
@@frederickevans4113 I've pulled that one a few times before I went out and actually purchased the tool. I'm at somewhere around 15 or so Honda vehicles I've owned over the years so its been well worth it.
This woman is a REAL mechanic. The difference is that she reads, researches and attempts to do repairs by the book when reasonable. There are too many videos being uploaded by inexperience, knucklehead kids making reckless mistakes and undermining what it takes to do this work the right way
I don’t know if you tried it but there’s something called the starter bump trick. I’ve used this every time I removed crank pulleys and it has always worked. Not sure if you could have done it on this one but food for thought
Forgot to add, the process to do this avoids the worry about left handed threaded bolts. I usually use a paper clip to do this at the relay, just have to have some electrical knowledge to avoid damaging your electrical system
Working in the plumbing trade i bring my tool box in everyday. I HATE when i try to lighten my load or keep my really nice tools safe from other people cause everytime i take a tool out of my box i end up needing it the next day. Im just lying to my self when i say “well i dont REALLY need this everyday” yeah nah never happens.
Honda bolts in the late 90s were making us all look dumb. Very frustrating at the time. Before honda crank bolt tool came out we had gone to 3/4 impact gun to remove. I got the first gen composite ingersol rand half inch impact and it worked every time.
A Honda crank bolt is the reason (after my aluminum 1/2 inch Ingersol Rand, and a Craftsman 3/4 impact with 150 psi of air pressure couldn't budge it), I just said F-it and went to the dark side. I bought a Milwaukee 1/2 inch impact with 1400 lbs of reverse torque. Problem solved forever.
They made a thicker 17mm amd 19mm impact socket for this very reason amd with the thicker socket it takes the bolt out like its no issue. Up to 1,000ft lbs on the crank bolt amd it's the only thing that works really. Some science behind the thick side walls that makes the bolt come right out like nothing.
@@FayeHadley I agree, Faye. When good tools exist like the one you showed, that method is NOT worth the risk IMO. But hey. People can do what they want with their own cars. But I wouldn't tempt fate like that. 😰
@@FayeHadley No argument from me there Fay. I'm only a shade tree mechanic and I would rather use the correct tool for the job, even if I only use it once.
I AGREE WITH YOU SAYING "NEVER DONT BUY A TOOL " even if it's just for one time use because it's mainly for ur time and project you want for yourself I have learned that as I have put my time and effort for my simple 1995 ford f-150 4.9L straight six 😊
My dad was a VW master.mechanic. He would talk to my mom before any big tool purchases. She always said, if it makes your job easier, get it. My dad lived by the principals, buy the best quality tools you can afford, and use the right tool for the job. My dad grew up poor in post WWII Germany, and my mom grew up poor in California. They were frugal, but always paid for quality, over cheap that would need replacement multiple times over the life of the quality item.
Torque Multiplier from X-Tool....best money I've ever spent. Painfully expensive tool, until the first time you cruise through a crank pulley and CV axle bolts with an 18" flex handle. As a 20 year professional mechanic, 98% of the stuck hardware that I've come across that required stupid (ie. tool breaking amounts of) smoke to remove were all stuff previously installed by another mechanic that DIDN'T use a torque wrench. Folks...stop over-tightening stuff...you're shooting yourselves in the foot.
To be fair harbor freight sells a 1500 lb impact for like $99... Would've a zipped that thing right off... I had a $700 impact gun that I returned because I never need it, and now I just use the harbor freight one... Everyone's on Brand loyalty I'm just on effective use of time energy and money
I bought one of these a few weeks ago to do a belt on a Lexus GS300. I found mine online for about $30 and it worked great. There's absolutely no way I would have gotten it loose without it, much less torque it back to 245 ft. lbs.
Hey Faye, do you have a vid for a vvti intake gear replacement on an 09 corolla 1.8l automatic from the top without removing the timing cover? Cheers Pauly from Ontario Canada
Granted the counterhold tool would still be necessary, but i got an old Proto design 36” long 3/4” drive breaker bar, the handle is a solid inch thick and it comes in clutch countless times when a 3/4” impact isnt getting the job done but the 1” impact doesnt fit 😂
We've all been there, Faye. That forehead smacking event when you realize you're an idiot for not buying the tool that'll make your life easier.... When you know as soon as you look at it that it'll make your life easier.
It’s just a measely 250-350+ ft lbs 😅 where a special tool designed for it helps so very much! Or get ya boy to hold the fly wheel while you break it loose 😂
I remember using a torque wrench to tighten my car's wheel nuts. I was amazed at how "loose" they were. It was even conceivable that they could later be removed using the supplied wheel brace.
You know you can just put a pipe on the end of your breaker bar, put the breaker bar up against the chassis and tap the starter motor to crank. Three little taps is all it usually takes with the key.
Too much for that Tool! $25-$30 BuXx woulda been More In-Line, as to a Decents Pricings! Yikes! It Cost$ TOO MUCH! To be a MechaniXx, these Dazes! Yikes, and YIKESES-ES-ES! ! Every Year, New Car Makes, & Models, and Engines, & Then Having to Be Buying ALL THE SPECIALTY TOOLZ Necessary, to "Be a MechaniXx ", and not justs be a "Parts Changers"! ! Engineers & CEOS, ARE THE ROOT CAUSES, of Vehicles Trubbles, Cost$ of Repair$. $80K for a Modern Truck? INSANE Cost$! When it Cost$ $5500 BuXx ALONE! In Orders, to be Ables to Pull a Vehicle's Cab! So as to THEN BE ABLES, To Change Out the Lasts two SparXx Plugs, and Coil PaXx, which is also a Separate Charge! Or similar Crap with Diesel TruXx Heads. No Good Reasons for all this NONSENSE! Dont get Us all Starteds, About: PLANNEDS OBSOLESCENCE! 😢😮😢😮😮😮😮😮😮😮
First off, you NEVER buy cheap anything tools!! NEVER ! If you have to save for a month just to afford a high torque lithium impact gun, DO IT then throw that cheap air Impact gun Away! Second, always buy upper name Brand tools(only buy Mac if you can afford them, but they are worth every dollar if you do) save the cheaper tools for a spare set or loaner set(never loan your main tool set) and third, if it's made in China give it away and don't buy ever again!
Get a longer cheater pipe. I broke loose a 240lbs (or more) torqued bolt using a 32mm(?) 1/2 inch impact socket, 2 foot breaker bar, & a 8 foot cheater pipe. It was an axle nut that was WAY over torqued on an '81 Monte Carlo back in 2004-ish, so socket size is probably wrong.
🤔 I would have used a long metal tube bar about 3 or 7 foot long tube insert all the way though the breaker bar to give me leverage .. BUT I STILL LOVE YOUR VIDEO.. 👍👍 Correction, I did notice in your video you used a tube .. But at the top of the breaker bar.. maybe it would have worked if it was inserted all the way through the breaker bar... Try it next time.. see if it works for you...
A much larger impact would save you a lot of headaches. I’m impressed by the Milwaukee think it’s 3/4 impact, the big one that isn’t a 1” meant for railway. I’ve yet to find something it can’t break loose or break the bolt lol. Used it to lug down some incredible things and it has broken loose some wild bolts and nuts. Seriously just buy a bigger, the most powerful thing you can buy. You won’t use it much, but oh man, it takes a 4 hour job into a 5 minute job at least 2-3 times a month for me.
put an impact socket on the crank pully bolt. attach a 1/2" drive long breaker bar to the socket. place the handle of the breaker bar pointing toward the L/F wheel, horizontal to the floor. (or toward the forward end of the car for transverse engine) place a small jackstand under the handle of the breakout bar. momentarily, tap the ignition key to to start. BANG....the bolt spins right out.
I did the same thing with a harmonic ballancer bolt after the pulley ripped off. I didn’t believe my wife when she said she had to pull over because parts were falling off her engine on her Mercury Mountaineer V6. Tried damn near everything I had to get it out. Spent hours on that sucker then I borrowed the $2400 3/4 inch Snap-on air impact and uhga-duhga'd on that sucker, off a 15 gallon tank, for another hour until it finally broke free. Pain in the ass especially when my mind was questioning my sanity, "It must be reverse threading, no it's normal... Reverse, normal, reverse, normal..."
I have been there countless times. I fealt every ounce of your frustration. What you didn't pount out is when you are on a hard deadline and none of the tool stores within a 50 mile radius have the right size in stock. eBay shows what looks like the right tool but won't be delivered for 3-5 business days. Then you finally find a store closing in 45 min that has one but you are 46 min away. Then, after breaking all the speed limits to get there just before the closed sign it activated, they charge 4 times the eBay price. Even so, when the sound of that bolt breaking it's grip comes so sweetly to your ears, it almost makes up for the days getting forked without a kiss.
In my Tacoma, I just Rachel strapped a 1/2” breaker to the frame rail, pulled the EFI fuse, and cracked the engine over for 1-2seconds… worked for removal… biggest torque wrench? A 4.0l v6 !
I've been a mechanic for 15 years and have a decent accumulation of snap-on tools. When it comes to hand tools... they're hard to beat. Idc what people say, it's a comfy tool to have molest your hand day in and day out for years on end. But when it comes to their pneumatics... just. Go. Somewhere. Else. Swallow your pride. And have a weird brand of air tools. They're almost always better than Snap-On
I feel your pain. Been there, done that, got the tee shirt. Last time was Feb 2022, doing the water pump & timing belt on my wife's Lexus RX300. Of course, I was also doing an engine replacement - the 270,000-mile engine threw a rod, and I pulled a replacement from a junkyard. Full service of the junkyard engine while putting it into her SUV.
As a mechanic in the CG, we never have the right tool. In fact, when my civilian friends ask me what I do. I tell them first I take things apart to make sure they still work. Second, I'm the real-life McGuyver, not because I'm smart. But because I never have the right tool for the job...
A friend / shop owner had me help in his shop for a while, he had bad eyes. I watched him fight a wheel hub nut for 2 days. Broke tools, used pipes, borrowed tools, used a torch, he even brought out "Big Momma" as he called the 1" jack hammer looking impact gun I think it's used in 18 wheeler trucks. Anyway, it finally came off and then he saw a cotter pin was what held it on the whole time 😂
The struggle is real..... recently set out to replace the inner & outer cv joints on my 1989 golf mk1.... 5 of the 6 bolts on the inner cv joint had stripped spines 😭...... i ended up loosening em with a chisel & hammer, a 3 hour endeavor with a lot of French.
Pretty sure that was factory installed crank pulley bolt.........not over torqued if factory. Pray you never have to remove flywheel bolt at crank......way worse.
If it still did not work by hand, combine that tool with a blast of the starter! After removing fuel pump relay and ignition fuse of course. That is a cool tool! 4 foot 1/2 inch Snap On bar is my smallest go-to for head bolts. But I am not a mechanic.
Why do manufacturers design such hellish experiences? There MUST be better designs so mechanics don’t have to deal with such madness. One of the worst I’ve ever dealt with is the front pulley bolt on a rotary. Short of a MASSIVE breaker bar, a few friends, and a lot of four letter words…it ain’t coming off.
You have to use real impact gun. Pay the money for the Ingersoll Rand. My old IR 1/2 makes more torque than my cheap 3/4" the 2135 series will take the bolt off or break it off. I have a not so cheap Craftsman 1/2 and a Cheap Husky 3/4. I can actually put out more torque via breaker bar than those POS.
Another option, however, would be supplying more airflow to your impact. Couldn’t really see from the video, but most people run 1/4” hose and connectors, but if you upgrade the size you’ll get more airflow which means more impact torque. If you do so choose to upgrade, it requires not only new air hose, but the connector to the air compressor’s air tank. Which you generally have to drill and tap new hole for since the idea is you want less restrictions from the air reservoir to the tool, but it’s not all in vein as you can always use a step down adapter to use old hoses when you don’t need high airflow :) probably all around the same cost as the specialty tool, but it’s more versatile in the long run
That "Orgasmic" Deep, Crack of a Very tight Bolt breaking Free !!!!😮. I thought the floor jack idea was sound, but at the end of the day "foot on the breaker " magic! What is the torque spec. on that? Probably not 518 ft.lbs.😅
I honestly think it could be the socket you're using. Its obviously impact rated but it looks like a standard one. They make I believe they are called Harmonic balancer sockets that work like a normal impact socket except the walls of the socket are super thick they sre made essentially for this type of work and the thicker walls and added weight essentially allow for less flex while impacting and more of the torque to transfer to the bolt, with one you're gun could probably get it off. There is also another brand that makes something called like "power sockets" that supposedly take that idea to the next level and add weight to the middle of the socket and a springing mechanism that supposedly allows up to 50% more torque transfer but I have never used one so cant back up those claims. But I have used one of those other guys and it works like a charm.
I have seen a similar armament at work with a Honda. I have a very powerful rattle gun, if that fails, I have a 3/4" Snap-on breaker bar and ratchet, they swap over on the bar, I own this because I one cracked my shin doing a 5 stud truck wheel, so the big thick studs. My big Snap-on bar kills anything.
Had a k24 sitting on my floor the crank bolt requires that tool or a heavy impact socket. I tried with my Dewalt 20v 3/4 impact. Tried for maybe 30 seconds. Then I went to my old trick. won't come loose then you tighten it first. Impacted for 15 seconds tightening it and back to losen, and it came right off. Try it next time. it almost always works.
Like the jack then the foot to remove the bolt. I was a 120ld 18 yearold kid working as a line tach for Mercedes. I had to learn to find and use leverage, especially on 617 5 cylinder turbo diesel crank bolts. I loved my job but glad i changed carreer paths.
When I was at the yota dealer in the 90's we did a ton of head gaskets on the 4 runners, we would put a breaker on the crank, wedge it against the frame then used the starter to do the work
I literally had a 5-foot extender on a breaker bar trying to break free a nut on a zero turn mower deck. On my back on the ground, pushing on the very end with my foot. In the end it took a couple minutes of propane torch heat and it came loose. That was fun! 😉🔧👍
Funny how there’s always torque specs on balancer bolts, but the robots in the factory torque them down to 2000 ft lbs😂😂😂. The worst is the FJ80 Landcruiser balancer bolt and the big 3 diesel’s 😮
