[New] Adjustable Voltage power supply 55 V - 20A High Power and Current / Automatic Fan On/Off 

Выход надо брать с стока и +, а исток на минус. Терморезистор на затвор, а не на сток

And have a mistake in drawing (not to soldered parts), the second terminal of thermistor should be connected to gate.

a buck circuit whith pwm oscilator and big capacitor and one mosfet worck fine more then 80% reliability

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@oilbay54 You have the look trough, fully correct. Sorry for the burning IRFs, too expensive for LEDs ☠️

Evet benim mosfetlerim yanıdı bu devrede sistemi değiştirmeden hangi mosfeti önerirsiniz daha güçlü olarak

Yapılan işlem doğru ama değil mi

@@mavibisiklet1 evet

Son derece verimsiz bir devre ayrıca. Direkt eski tip adaptörlerde kullanılmak için tasarlanmış eski bir dervre. Smps adaptörle zaten hepsi güç kaybı olmadan yapılıyor.

Ortada sadece bir hazır 30V 15A besleme cihazı ve yapılan linear dimmer devresi var. Nerdeymiş şu 55V , 20A güç devrtesi aleti vs. vs. 😁😅🤣

😂👍

Başlık da 55V 20A, ama hangi güç kaynağıyla? Besleme devresi kendi zaten 30V 15A veriyor! 😁Yorum ve beğeni verelerin acemi olduklarını görüyorum...

is connected with pin 2 through the motor winding is correct works correct.

I thought that was kind of strange too.

Yorum için biraz geç! Orada mevcut besleme cihazı zaten 30V, 15A veriyor, voltaj ve akım da ayarlanabiliyor. Ha 55V 20A nın ise nasıl olacağı bir muamma. Sadece yt'den para kazanmak için yapılmış uyduruk bir devre...

Да к тому же у него неправильно включён терморезистор вентилятора.

I just wanted to ask the same...

I need to build one that will supply from a 12v car battery and maintain 14v output automatically and allow for peak 80A of draw with continuous of 50A. Is there a way to calculate what is required to handle this load? And what parts need to be increased to meet this requirement? Also, as the power supply voltage drops can it automatically adjust to hold the set output voltage?

@@rustylimbo Your problem is very easy to solve! Exactly in your case, when the output voltage required is only 14 volts - it is done very easily! The automotive on-board network operates within a voltage range of 10.5__13.5 volts. I mean the different degree of charge of the battery and the current of the running alternator. You only need to raise the voltage to 14 volts. Powerful step-up modules can easily handle this task. Easy! And continuous current you can get 50 amps (+-) is also an easy task. I don't see any difficulty at all, it's easy for me. But the most important point here is very powerful chokes, Schottky diodes and mosfets - these are the three main components that should be in a step-up converter. Any average step up converter has a voltage and current controller. It is only necessary to replace the 3 main components I have listed in that step up converter. You will need a voltage regulator to set the output voltage to 14 volts and a current regulator to set the output current to 50 amps. These parameters will be unchanged and will not be exceeded. This is an easy task for me. But here there is the most important point - this device will consume about 65___75 amps from the battery! How long will the battery last? - Do the math. The higher the battery voltage, the lower the current consumption. That is, you need to have a powerful battery with a large capacity to increase the operating time of your device 14V-50A. You can connect several batteries in parallel to increase their total capacity. In addition - in the step-up device you need powerful mosfets with a very small gate voltage and a very small junction resistance, e.g. AUIRFS8407-7P or IRF1324S-7PPbF. And Schottky diodes are better like STPS80L60CY or KCQ60A06. Of course you need aluminum or better copper heat sinks for the mosfets and diodes. You'll probably need a radiator fan as well, but it's no big deal, it's cheap. You can wind the choke yourself. There are ready-made step-up modules, but you have to replace the elements I mentioned and adjust the voltage and current. Nothing complicated. I build much more powerful devices, and your request is made easily.

@@rustylimbo Addendum: I should warn you that the minimum voltage that must be on the battery to get 14V-50A should not go below 8 volts. This is very important for mosfets! They must have an opening gate voltage of 6-13 volts to fully open. If the opening voltage falls below 6 volts, the gate will open very weakly and the output current will kill the mosfet because the gate junction resistance will be high. The better open the mosfet is, the lower the junction resistance and therefore the more current can flow through it. I have IRL40SC228 mosfets with a junction resistance of only 0.5___0.8 milliohms, which is super for your device. And of course, your device will automatically maintain the output voltage at 14 volts if the input voltage is 8-15 volts. As for current: if you have a current regulator, it will automatically maintain the current you set. It's a stabilizer - from the word "stable". If you want a peak current of 80 amps, set it to 80, and your load will take any current from 0 to 80 amps on its own. If you set it to 50 amps, you won't get 80. The stabilizer regulates exactly the value you set. It's that simple! You will need to supplement your unit with a battery voltage controller - this is very important!!! If the battery voltage drops to 8 volts, the controller must stop running your boost device, or else the mosfets will burn out next. This controller is easy to make, but it must be in the circuit. Many people have burned out their various boosters precisely because their batteries discharge below 8 volts. People do not understand what the reason is, but it is very simple.

Still I have problem the project not tolerate 45 volts twice I burned one mosfet only each time

Thanks for your warning updated schema in description

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