@@Roll2Videos there you go! Now you just have to get one of those instapot things if you don't already have one. Once you have portable power, you can have food anywhere!
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8:32 If you leave the area of your wifi make sure you disconnect the wifi and get back on bluetooth before you leave. I have had a couple of different times that I didn't do that, and trying to get it to reconnect to bluetooth can be troubling while you're trying to do other things. The only way I've been able to turn the wifi OFF has been the seven second hold on the IOT button to reset the wireless settings.
Wow ! Excellent 'run through' Adam and no one else mentions the amazing WiFi capability, you can, for example, pre-plug in devices and switch them on or off from a distance, as long as you have Internet connectivity and the unit is on standby; Even set the amount of time for them to be operational- so operation can be remote well out of Bluetooth range. (see 7:51 onwards) A good point about the first start-up, must be fully charged and the recent Software update I think makes the fan noise much quieter in our opinion - Thank you.
The voltage drop on the inverter is the way to communicate to the load that there is not enough power. It's standard practice. Tesla for example automaticly adjust max current depending to voltage level.
With the low battery SOC vs AC output voltage, put a decent load on the unit then measure the AC volts. That'd be a better indicator if this unit has regulation problems at the ragged edge.
@@AdamDeLay07Fair enough, I didn't spot the last one wasn't under load. To be honest if it is a regulation problem rather than a 'feature ' I'd expect it to happen under load since the combination of low voltage and load is where the duty cycle on the HV boost stages would be wide open.
@@retrozmachine1189 yeah with a load, I expect some fluctuation. When you can see the voltage drop in correlation to the SOC, that's poor design. Glad this one didn't have that problem.
Thanks for this very interesting review but every reviewer seems to concentrate on the fast charging, max power and runtimes, probably because Anker concentrates on that. Some of us would be more interested in runtimes when it's only drawing a low load such as say 10 watts an hour necessary to run a router and VOIP phone on AC during a power outage. From some things I've heard the inverter will take so much power that the power station will only run a day.
Thanks. I think the biggest reason is because of the product "claims". If a product claims it can do something, it needs to be verified. I know I've done something similar to this (just not that small of a constant load) for a different power station. Every load is different so that will change the outcome, but you're basically wanting to know about the idle draw on the battery when the power station is running?
@@AdamDeLay07 Thanks for the replay. we'd just like to be able to keep 3 essential items on for as long as possible when we get a long outage, which, since we're in the hurricane corridor in Nova Scotia, can happen as much as once or twice a year. We're way out in the country and getting old. Don't need heat as we have a wood burning range and don't need water, (gravity feed) but we'd like to keep internet, VOIP phone, and the internet antenna running for as long as possible. They're all AC devices together drawing around 10 watts, so from what I've read, the C1000 will only power them on AC for about 24 hours because of the inverter drawing so much power. Thinking of using adaptors and plugging them into the usb ports where I believe they'll run much longer, maybe 4 or 5 days. But not a consideration for most people, I guess.
@@richards2072 Ok, I started a 10w discharge test to see how long it runs. Output fluctuates between 10-10.6w, but should give a really good idea of how long it lasts including idle consumption.
Wow that’s insane so much test best review indeed many just say it great but don’t have the equipment to bench test heheh. I had a questionnaire for your tests hopefully you can do . 1) could you test pls with that Volt meter you have what happens to the regular ac output ports ;do hey share the same voltage 112-110v when testing those two vacuums or do those ports continue to be regular and have 120v of course use the meter to test this let’s not burn anything heheh. 2) with your meter test how many continues watts does this Shopsmith Mark V 510 draw , I understand d this meter may not be able read super fast surge draws , but just to know what’s the idle consumption of this saw . 3) if we only had a 1 solar panel as starting could it be used as pass throw putting atleast abit of power on higher loads like 400w to 1000w .? In a scenario we had no grid power in a hurricane., I want to know how useful this could be for emergencies .
Thanks. In my mind in order to review something, you have to run some tests on it, otherwise their just "overviews of the product". Course it probably helps that I enjoy testing things as well. So to get to your questions: 1. So before testing this, my assumption was that because it's a single inverter, when the voltage changes on 1 outlet, it changes on all of them. I re-ran the same test but put the KillaWatt meter on a different outlet. It shows the voltage being reduced on those outlets as well. Now the voltage drop will really not affect devices other than inductive (motor driven) loads like the vacuum cleaners. You'll hear the pitch change while the motors slow down a little bit. 2. So I've done videos in the past about running my Shopsmith on other inverters and from what I've been able to see (without a proper meter with inrush detection), the startup surge is just under 52A. Without cutting anything, it levels out to around 9A. 3. As far as the solar aspect, unfortunately I don't have any compatible solar panels to test. I did try using the DC connection from another power station, but that's limited to 10A, so it doesn't give a lot of power boost when running the larger loads. I can't really tell if the DC side does passthrough or not. Even if it doesn't, if you have a max of 600W of panels, you could recharge in full sun in under 2 hours. Obviously that recharge time would change if your unit was under load. For the cost and the features, I would have no hesitation about picking this unit up for emergency power.
@@AdamDeLay07 wow 52A that’s crazy high , thanks for testing that for everyone of us watching you video . Good to know to avoid connecting anything w microchip or sensitive electronics on any port while activating the SURGEPAD toggle on the app . I have run some sensitive things under 108-115v and they work fine but just to keep it save I’ll try to avoid doing that .
@@charlschuck6 Not a problem. In my test I don't believe it got below 110v, so there shouldn't be any issue with electronics to my knowledge. When you get closer to that 100v though you might see some issues. Wouldn't imagine most people would run those kind of large loads on that unit, but I just wanted to show the power that it has.
One thing I just noticed today. I want to charge my C1000 off of the AC Power outlet in my truck bed for when I go camping. The outlet is rated at 400 watts. I have the power station set to charge at 200 watts so I wouldn't pop a fuse on the truck but it will not charge. The C1000 just clicks. It will charge off of the 12 volt from the car charger inside but not the AC power in the truck bed or inside the cab. Am I doing something wrong?
Not that I can think of. The only thing that comes to mind is maybe there's some kind of "startup surge" that's causing the circuit breaker in the truck to trip? Do you have multiple outlets that you can plug something else into at the same time as the C1000 to make sure the outlet isn't losing power?
Thanks for all the testing! Looking at this unit specifically in a UPS capacity, I enjoyed your test but I have a question - if the unit hits 0% - i.e. it acts as a UPS, it runs the loads as long as it can, and then dies... and power on the AC side comes back - does the unit immediately power back on, begin charging, and resume AC output without user intervention? If that last bit doesn't happen then I can't really use it as a UPS in a remote location because I won't be physically there to toggle the AC output button. Do you happen to know what would happen in this case? Thanks again for all your work on this channel!
Appreciate the comment! So when power is restored to the device it will start charging, but I don’t believe it will turn on the AC output. Unfortunately I don’t know of any smaller power station that will do this. I believe I remember hearing that the Hysolis Apollo does this but I can’t think of anything else that does. Sorry about that. I wish that more would “recall” the last state they were in. I’ll check with a few contacts at a couple companies and see if I can come up with any options.
Thanks@@AdamDeLay07 - yeah I figured that was the case. I may go with a slightly more expensive, but known-and-tried-and-true solution like a small Multiplus/Shunt/Cerbo/battery in a box, similar to what you did for your RIGID DIY power station. It would have been nice to have an AIO solution (and have it MUCH cheaper) but I think this application is rare, and Will Prowse has had similar issues with self-start too (though, in his case, he's usually critiquing auto-invert from zero where power in is from solar, not the wall). Just trying to avoid LiFePO4 solutions from folks like APC, who do have them but they're insanely expensive. And I don't trust LiFePO4 "swapout" replacement batteries for SLA-based small UPS models. Thanks again!
@@maliciousloki Not a problem. Anker did confirm that they don't have any power stations with that feature. After looking back at some of Will's videos, he mentioned that the EcoFlow Delta Pro and the Hysolis Apollo had these features, but like you said he was more looking at it from a solar aspect. Good luck on your search/build!
@@AdamDeLay07 both when plugged to grid and when disconnected can you check if your unit switches or stays the same . Mine finally arrived and I tested this and it’s reverse when not plugged in to wall but corrects it self when plugged in to grid power , ground is on both end and is floating when not plugged into wall but regardless if it’s reserve when not plugged in it’s a small risk isn’t it for things that have switch ( ac power flow ) so the bypass or ups mode as many call it when plugged the power comes only from grid and disconnects from batteries and input power 120v gets sort of divided into charging the battery and outputting to the ac output port , but when not plugged to wall all that energy and amps power is coming uniquely from the battery send to the inverter so why is it that I am getting a reserve polarity ? Is this common on the anker c1000 or like the previous power house 575 renamed F2000 after they replace some units ?
@@charlschuck6 When I tested mine, it wasn't plugged into AC. It had a floating ground, but that's to be expected. I would double check whatever you're using to check polarity with to ensure that's reporting properly. If it is, then I would send a message to Anker support and see if they have any more information for you. I can't speak to other units because this is the only Anker power station I've tested.
@@mikuspalmis yeah out of all the different power stations I’ve tested, none have been able to run that saw. Some home level inverters can,but not the portable power stations.
I know many don’t ask this but idk if you have the time to run a test for the Dc Cigarette output port the 12v one: With the included cigarette to xt60 cable plugged in and could you do a dc voltage reading to let us all know what’s that voltage polarity shouldn’t matter the meters will display -12… or regular 12.. and on. You know what I mean you have install bigger units 😅 .? Not many on their reviews check this section and or focus but many campers use this for devices like led and more and it would be great to know what’s the actual value not just trust on the specs on the unit but tested our selfs :) I’m this case you could do us the honor 😂
@@AdamDeLay07 i wanted to share something hope it helps I’m not here to criticize but I saw some guys that had issues w the f1200 yeah the unit stop working and they have expired is passed “ their warranty date” anyways they opened the unit and couldn’t fix it the unit won’t take charge of any source it’s not the first time this happens also to me but with other brands . I have seen this on two units I bought and worked for 1-3 yrs and failed one was total wasted bms it was gone and the other worked but being all in 1 unit if anything goes bad the whole beauty goes away and won’t function . I gues once’s again the diy separate systems is best hehe I mean the good thing is that this c1000 and many brands have now days good warranty so they are backed up for longer period of time . But it’s good to be able to choose what to buy and think for the future coverage
If you lowered the AC In down to 200W, yes you could charge from the inverter in your car. It would take around 5 hours to completely recharge the power station and I would recommend not charging with your car off the entire time as it would probably drain your car battery.
That will depend on what your current utility rate is. This unit is right around 1kWh of storage, so for me I believe my cost is around $0.14/kWh. You could offset that cost by getting some solar panels and recharging from the sun as well!
Actually, I attempted to do a teardown on the unit to include in the video, but it seems like it’s made of a unibody design that prevents the ability of opening it up without completely destroying the product.
@@charlschuck6 Still being edited. I did just share a new post to the community page of my channel. Looks like Anker knocked the price down even more for the week of black friday. 30% off.
I understand there’s things that just require way too much surge power I saw a RU-vidr do a test on electric car lifter system that ECOFLOW biggest station / bluetti ac300 model couldn’t started it 😊 it was supposedly over 6400w surge so yeah there’s a limit to everything even some 48v solar system couldn’t power a table saw so yeah there’s things ( motors most of the time ) that will just demand too much power 😂
@@Zkpe02 Thanks Ken! I'm looking to try to do some tear-downs on the other power stations I've looked at as well. Those should be coming in the next few weeks.
Well he did take the Anker power station to a ball game and used the Anker with his coffee machine and pot food heater. So in terms of a kettle, microwave, oven/grill, this unit should work fine I guess.
