Fairly common swap where i'm from. Have done a few myself. Coil pack mod with propper plug gap always solves the dizzy issue. Merging the loom is strait forward as all the wires hsce their counterparts in both looms. You are going to enjoy the peaky nature of the engine
For the ecu, putting that cap on the front like you said is ugly it will also eat up a lot of money that could have been spent on an ecu, an aftermarket ecu will also make way more power due to the resistors, they like to burn up and they don't deliver the same as they did new...you will like the extra power. You could also notch out the fire wall if you know how to weld, doing this does keep the super reliable distributor, but is a pain to change cap and rotor, the cap and rotor will last years though, this could be done and use the stock ecu or use a aftermarket, it being aftermarket coil on plug is still probably the best option. But if you have the money you won't regret an aftermarket ecu, haltech is one of the best with lots of support, their headquarters in America is in my home town of kentucky.
I can hook you up with a Megasquirt since I’m a dealer. You can mount a trigger wheel to the crank and use coil on plugs then. Wouldn’t cost nearly as much
If you don't mind for one of the videos can you go over the vacuuming routing you did. I did my 20v swap and im unsure if I routed everything correctly
Riley i absolutely love your videos man. I just wanna tell you that there is a slide hammer attachement for removing dowel pins, much better than vise grips. Also, with a 20v equippped car, the twin cam 16 decal is kinda innapropriate isnt it? Anyway, really love to come back from work and sip a beer watching your vids
Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to make the belt tensioner a solid, the hydrolic bt tensioner fails time to time, bending 20 valves/$. Don't do the silvertop/16v oil pump, it requires running the smaller silvertop belt.
Hello, how you doing? Can you give the feedback or even make a video(that would be great) of 4age vs 3sge beams i would like your personal opinion about the 2 and driving them wich One is best to swap and drive etc. Thanks and goodluck!
Hey love the vids when dizzy is on 1 in its original spot with the relocation kit it points too 3 at the front so how did you set up the wires does 3 become 1 and so on or am I getting something wrong 😂
you never really went over what you ended up doing for the 20v alternator bracket! did you end up cutting or grinding off the bolt hole on the bracket that shares the same stud as the engine mount?
Go ahead and take that heater hose valve off before you destroy it taking that engine in out...it happens. And that vinyl hose is not going to last the heat and is going to look black from the oil in no time.
I'm new to the Toyota game. Idk why toyota machines all their hardware so that the middle of each bolt is bowled out slightly. When they start to corrode the hex section just crumbles. I have been fighting this on my pops old 2uz in his 4runner. Was this to save weight or something? Its mad annoying when you own a toyota in the rust belt.
Black top 20v vs beams 3sge Wich would u do and why and why not Go link itl be well worth it and its keep your moter safer but its your car not my car so u do u fam
The only reason he wouldve done that is if he left the distributor in the same location as its factory location, which wouldve become the rear. you can see at the end he mounted it to the front. so no.
@@olivevideogames ah didn't catch that in the end. not big on the relocation myself. so wanted to see ways of how other people bash in or cut their firewall.
@@jonahheu Look, to each their own....but why on earth would you bash in a perfectly good firewall if there was no need? especially on a car like this? There are other options that are cleaner if that is your concern. Go coil on plug like he said for about 1,500 or just get the sensor and trigger wheel set up for a lot less.
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