The hand drill can also be used for making fire with a thin (5mm ish) hardwood dowel or straight stick and a peice of wood softer than the dowel, you will also require some kindling, cotton wool is good, drill a small hole 2mm in the flat peice of wood and then drill your dowel into the wood quickly, eventualy you will have a smoking pile of sawdust which you tip into your kindling and blow on it ubtil you get a flame to light your fire. Printing the hand drill at 170% will make life easier.
Usually when you want to logo a pei sheet you laser it on the metal underneath before laminating it. One of the advantages of a measurement grid on a sheet is to eyeball skew correctness. Another is to visually estimate actual linear speed.
Actually, the gantry levelling worked perfectly on the 6 that I have... it's literally the exact same system that the Prusa Mk3 uses... so really isn't an issue. Not sure why his didn't work... perhaps the stepper motor current wasn't set correctly in his early firmware.
@@saltysteel3996 I would rather have them have their own drivers in case something ever happens but yeah at least that way you know they shouldn’t be able to come out of alignment.
Thank you for this review, very informative. Really like the fact this isnt a one day review. Haven't been in the printing corner of YT and forgot what good content you have. Thanks again. Ordered one of these yesterday, feeling good about the choice.
I have G34 active on all of my printers now and it is a godsend, any level problems are easy to figure out with the gantry level excluded from the equation. I would have thought they would have included drivers for each of the Z leadscrews so this printer could have dual independent leadscrews and G34 active.
Maybe I'm in the minority, but I don't get why some many people complain about "dated" features on printers, like a matrix LCD screen with rotary knob. Simplicity and stability are a feature in their own right, especially on devices which need to be reliable & repairable. Looks like Sovol is making some of the best Prusa clones -- Even though being clones, they might come with a few quality control / calibration flaws.
It's kind of amazing how much extra effort someone will go through to avoid having one more cheap stepper driver on their controller board! Automated X-axis tramming works very nicely for me with a very similar design printer. It was also weird to see that the linear rods I have on it are now high end :-D
That was a good 'proper' review. Not gushing about how great everything is and no avoidance or belittling of sharp corners. In fact it was so good I'm now tied between this and the Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro...
I was in the same position till I realised that speed on Neptune 3 pro is capped in it's firmware and Elegoo has not even released the firmware for Neptune 3 till now. So forget modifications, printing faster or running Klipper on 3 pro. 3 pro has filament sensor and light extra which are a cheap upgrades.
I like that rotating gear on the front- if that can be used to feed filament manually, it would be really handy. Also, it looks like the entire hot end comes off easily- that would make maintenance so much easier.
@@HotboiEngineering yeah it can. I have the printer and have used the wheel manually just fine. Don't need to though because there is a change filament option in the menu that does it for you
Yeah it’s physically attached the shaft of the motor. They designed it so a bit of the shaft sticks out the bottom which is what the testing portion bites on to.
It is that, and by the looks only that, which is a tip of the hat to reprap. Namely the Prusa Mendel, which had a large gear on the front of the extruder
One of the common headaches with this type of design that use parallel rods is that any deviation between the rods will cause the plane to twist as it travels along the axis. They have to be perfectly parallel. If the plane twists, both manual leveling and ABL will be off.
Reprap was a hardware concept not a printer model. I myself had a rep wrap i3 frame printer, what you're probably thinking of is the reprap Mendel or one of the other bazillion variants. The whole point of rap rap was to make a printer that could make more printers... It's antithetical to the very concept of a mass-produced printer. But it was still fundamental to the formation of the market
I researched printers for a good while and this ended up being my choice. It's not here yet(canada) but really looking forward to it getting here. Ordered up some 123 blocks for leveling as I'm sure this won't be the last printer I buy and having them will just make things easier. But the soup cans were awesome apples to oranges thinking! Well done.
@@calgarysparky i was going to get the ender 3 s1, but this sv06 beats it in spec and price. Looks like it will be january 15 for me if I order now. kamloops bc
My v6 came today I'm running a test print when writing this I did not have the tram issue you had seems they fixed that issue since this video. I'll take measurements and work on a micro SD to a full Sd card adapter asap.
I was eating some Campbells Mushroom soup while watching this video. I lost it when the soup cans made their appearance. I have ordered a SV06 a couple of days ago, you're great review made me feel good about my choice.
I think it is safe to say that nowadays, unless you somehow buy a 10 dollar printer, every single entry level printer is pretty damn good. I spent an eternity looking for options for my first printer and ended up buying the anycubic vyper, and I am incredibly happy with it, but I see a lot of new models from different manufacturers with the same level of features and they are all equally impressive... I think that we should be happy with the state of the market for those of us who are getting started.
After a close look I wonder why they just didn't go for the Prusa i3 clone look with their colors. No one would care because it's an open-source design. Not sure if they really improved anything. I'm good with a clone. The design works well and you get really good looking quality prints. I currently have an RRG i3 and love it!
I very recently upgraded from an Ender 3 Pro to a SV06 and it has been fantastic thus far, super easy setup and haven't had any issues with the bed leveling whereas on my Ender 3 it was a constant struggle. Really my biggest nitpicks are the cable for the bed, which on mine was quite stiff and would go on top of the bed potentially knocking prints off. But this was quickly solved by printing a stress relief. Another nitpick was that originally the printer came with the belts tensioned to ridiculous levels resulting in a VERY loud print. Loosened them quite a bit and it's a lot quieter, some movement is still quite loud but can apparently be mitigated almost entirely by disassembling the printer and properly greasing the insides of all the bearings as just lubricating the rods won't work - it will just push the grease to the sides. The control board being so easily accessible is a godsend as the placement on the Ender 3 is absolutely retarded. In short, if you got an Ender 3, yeet that garbage out the window and upgrade to this. Apparently Sovol uses a lot of Creality components but at least it feels like Sovol has SOME kind of quality assurance. Whereas Creality wouldn't know what quality is even if it hit them straight in the face. Fuck Creality, thanks for coming to my TED talk.
no matter what fancy auto leveling there is, you can never beat manual bed tramming/leveling. that's why the Nyloc mod exists for the MK3S+. auto leveling can NEVER adjust for a bad bed. ABL is just a convenient feature for future prints once the printer is dialled in manually
Planetary extrusion drives are and were on Stratasys in the late 90'S nothing new to 3d printing but new to cardboard box printers somewhat i suppose all dual drive axis units like this should be zeroed like you showed before even plugging it in. I will say i am surprized that bed slingers are still about imagine 1-2 lbs part swinging around hundreds of mm tall, the machine alignment is questionable as the weight is stacked up and i suggest printing in the middle of the bed only for this reason great vids cheers!
You should just say it: Independent Z drivers would have allowed a z-tilt probe operation, and add only $2 to cost. It is very, very lazy of them to stock a 4-driver board with this otherwise nice printer. Does it allow serial access to the TMC drivers? You know, to control current, stealthchop/spreadspectrum and such?
Oh man I laughed out loud when you showed off the pop out sword. Now I want one. I hope you can come back to this printer and tell us if it’s still a great beginner printer or too tweaky and better of with something like a bambú a1 or what ever
Soon as I heard it was a left to right issue I thought "dual z strikes again". Can't believe it wasn't obvious but nice review otherwise. If this was sold for about $170-200 I'd say it's a nice option.
I have 2 Ender 3V2's and this thing just blows them out of the water. Even my DD and bed probe equipped V2 that I keep dialed in. My SV06 has been running around circles around that V2 ever since the 20 mins it took me to put it together and set it up. Idk that I would consider any other printer in the $300 price range.
wow nice review of a pretty good machine ! I'm totally impressed by the quality you get from polyterra filament ! Mine give me absolute garbage every prints, waht's are your print setting for this filament ?? thanks a lot keep going on with good work as well !
I love you and owe you a beer lol.I touched/turned one of the Z axis screws with the printer off on my SV03 and I was afraid of running into that problem you had.But I have 2 identical cups to fix it !
I print PETG on the clean side of the PEI sheet, on my S1 Pro. A thin spray of PrintaFix and no issues with warping and I save the textured side for PLA, TPU and some more. I swear, you should try PrintaFix, if you haven't already. At this point I printed with it on so many surfaces that I started to believe that if I'd spray it on a flat piece of excrement, it would print on that too... 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Can't wait to get mine I have 4 on order and thinking of ordering 2 more I am starting a small farm I already 3 printers Ender 3 pro very modified ,xyz DaVinci 1 ,qubea qd-x1 pro witch I need to fix I got it for free it's a delta print info is hard to find.great review
Honestly I feel like these will be great farm printers. They might not have the speed of a Bambu but for the price it’s alot of printer with great features. This is likely what I would recommend for a low cost farm printer at this point.
did I miss the portion about the firmware, screen interface, usability of the menus etc? Im a prusa guy through and through, and one thing that keeps me coming back to them is how nice and fully featured the firmware is. Having pause to change colors work perfectly every time, very intuitive filament changing, preheating, etc, are all really important to a good user experience. Curious how this one is?
@ModBot do you think instead of the force being too weak on the auto-z level process, do you think it could be the top of the frame not being parallel to the bed? That would make the x gantry be straight but only relative to the stops on the top cross bar, not the bed.
I have the same problem with the leveling being close on left, far on right. You're the only source I've found that provides an answer so I'll give that a go (thank you!) Question for you: do you use the sovol slicer for everything and just leave the settings at default other than speed & temp? Curious what settings you used for the sword.
This printer is ridiculous. It should be illegal to make a printer that good for that good of a price. Just buying the printer and operating it as instructed/prompted produced the most amazing results I could have imagined. A couple of notes: Make sure the Power Supply is set to 120V (if that matches the wall power in your area). I set the nozzle height by first doing what was recommended, and then: I sliced a first layer test print. Washed the bed surface with soap and water (never to be touched again by human hands). Printed the test print while adjusting the nozzle to the best first layer print. Saved the z-offset setting. To be fair it was a little frustrating getting started. But in the end resulting ease of printer and printing and quality hard to deny.
in order to fix the Z sync issue, just design a better phisical limiter. This time make sure the guide rog goes through. The current system allows some flexing
@9:45ish how about putting 2 bump stops at the top of both rods, and/or side to side. This way if one side is lower than the other it will hit on that side first. This might help it calibrate better and semi stop it from bumping. Can also be used as guids for how far off they are that you can see or use a feeler gauge on. The closer the tolerance in the bump stops the closer the accuracy.
On the cr10s pro v2 (dual lead screws), I had to leave the z motors On. Loosened the couplers and let the motor settle before re-tightening them and then start leveling the x gantry. Heavier side set higher by about 1mm cause it sags.
The grid would be a cool idea if it was a 2” x2” layout like the Prusa, I’m constantly looking from my slicer to my bed as a real world comparison when enlarging models 😅
From your description of the problem, it seems that it could easily be due to a difference in length in the vertical frame members and could be easily remedied by bringing the lengths to match.
Thank you for the excellent review on this machine.Would have liked the plus, but I don't do anything really big and have not much space for another printer. Love that Drippy Bucket and pallet. The color change filament on the bucket and the color, and finish is amazing. Struggling learning to print Silky Rainbow mh build series, and it's been a few really challenging days to see anything good. Filament is not doing well on 20 mm letters on a doll stand I'm making for wife. It's close but printing very, very slow. Entering the Sponge Bob, "meanwhile three weeks later " zone
So I just watched this video as a skipable ad before Squidmar Miniatures video of trading a $0.10 goblin for two Warlord Titans. I don't know why someone is ad-bombing your review, but thought you should be aware of why you might be getting 4 second or so watch times on it. Also decided that I'll sub your channel as you have a good voice and present info in a clear manner. Update: Saw this video twice now as an ad on Squidmar Miniatures video; around the 7:33 minute mark. Update 2: and for a third time at the 15:07 minute mark. Also watching on a streaming device, so posting this comment on my phone.
The hype train is leaving the station! Love your content. Great review! I'll wait for the Pro V2 Max Neo that will undoubted come out with a bigger build volume, Klipper pre-installed, updated part cooling fan, double sided PEI sheet, and 7" Touch Screen. LOLZ! I'm sure it will be ready for the July 4th holiday sales!
Hello and thank you for this interesting presentation of the new Sovol device! I have one question about this: What is your opinion on lubricate the bearings of the SV06 (were they lubricated at the factory, should we do it ourselves, did you lubricate them, etc.)? Thanks in advance!
Did you have to change any of your profile settings for TPU? Lost In Tech mentioned an issue with jamming, and having to change his profile. However, he had a pre-release model to help troubleshoot any issues before release.
Would love to see what the process would be like for putting klipper on this, this may end up being my first printer and I've got a spare Pi from before they became gold. Also interested in knowing if you have any idea how hard it would be to throw a Revo hot end on it?
Greetings from greece !Love your reviews great job !!! I am truly thinking to buy a sovol looks great and for the job that i want it should be great!!! You should try to clipper it 😉.
Would you recommend this printer over others in the price range? I'm thinking of buying an additional printer and this seems like an upgrade from my cetus MK3 in almost every way. Does it beat creality machines?
If you're going to pay $300 for this POS - you might as well just go $400 and get the Artillery SWX2. It has a 310x310 build plate and all the bells and whistles; Volcano Hot end, Touch Probe solution, 110v heated bed for fast heating, dual belted Z, floating Z couplers, color touch screen, USB flash drive support, just overall a fully complete package with top notch engineering.
If i buy one I'm going to create an adapter for a standard SD since just like most printers the SD micro is on the main board so if there's an accident putting the micro in you'd have to replace the main board. Plus the micro slots do wear out way faster than I like. That was one of the first things I did with my Ender 3 pro.
@MonkeySnark Well I have a CAD program that I use to create printable items once I get my printer I'll take measurements and design one and post it on thingiverse for free I found one for my ender 3 pro that's a bit bulky but looks and feels like a factory item. I can't use it on the v6 but it's pretty easy and with double-sided tape is removable
@@scarsdale7186 Was just watching a vid on the new P1P Bambu printer by CNC K, and even that pricey printer uses a flimsier Micro SD card! Just don’t get their backward thinking. I will look forward to see your “thingee verse” dohicke micro sd card adapter friend, and thanks for the reply. Cheers
I always found it hilarious and also kinda sad, that it's cheaper and easier to use a *whole* extra stepper motor than a simple toothed belt to link the two Z screws that would ensure the gantry stays level and synchronized even if you move it manually. Relying on two steppers to always move the exact number of steps (including on power up, when they might have tension holding them between steps?) seems so silly when a belt would just work.
@@arnoldburian6116 Not true - auto leveling works fine on machines with a single Z screw... it's not twisting and torqing the gantry, it's simply moving Z up and down as it prints to follow the bed. These machines that have dual Z motors only have a single stepper driver for the two motors anyway, so they can't even drive the motors independently lol.
@@dregenius There is no auto leveling between two z-axis rods without independent z-axis rod control. You have to manually level them (using cans for example). That's not auto leveling. In this video, the rods were too far out of level and needed manual leveling first. After the initial manual leveling, the machine can do true auto leveling.
@@arnoldburian6116 Right.... but I still don't see why you'd ever want independent control of the two motors on a dual-motor, dual-z-screw configuration... even a small amount out of sync and the gantry is binding and trying to crush the two uprights. Maybe I'm completely mistaken and you're *not* advocating for that?
i just recently got into printing and i would love a grid on my print bed. i use mostly use cura and often have a hard time telling where my print actually is gonna be. makes it hard when im trying to use some glue for certain prints. i have to use much more than i need since i dont know where its gonna go
I purchased the SV06 Plus and have had same leveling issues. I've tried this trick and everything else I can possibly think of. The x-axis is perfectly level...The left side of the bed will always have to be too close in order for the right side of the bed to stick. The prints are great but this is frustrating 😒
There is a file set on thingiverse for the old prusia/anet a8 style printers that is nearly identical to the plastic parts for that printer (at least the left and right z axis assemblies. I had found it and printed it as an upgrade for my geeetech a8 almost 10 years ago.
I have been slowly working on my Ender 3 pro to get it to print in CF nylon and it's an expensive thing to start on, all-metal hotend, direct drive, glass bed, and so on. Can you tell me if the hype on this machine is true and it's out of the box ready to print with that type of filament? Clearly I'd have to get the hard steel/ruby nozzles for it.
Wow, maybe I need to use the Campbells soup for my SV04. I have had so much bad luck getting the mainly right extruder to print with ending up with a spaghetti mess. The two pieces of G10 that came with the printer is kind of hard to get them lined up and straight. I have leveled this machine sooo many time and then to go back the next day and find it off again. I really want this printer to work, I want an IDEX machine. I just received and email from Bamboo Lab to complete my payment on the X1 Carbon and see it's in shipping, can't wait for this one but I want the SV04 to work. Wish someone real savvy near Riverside CA could help..
I gotta ask…. I just ordered the SV05 and, there’s not much out there yet… It looks like, the screen is the same, the software is Merlin, but the board is the Creality 32 bit. That said, and keep in mind, this is my second printer, will I be able to update to Klipper and a touchscreen? I was thinking, yeah, like Creality went with. Anyway, I got the printer at an incredible price and I figured it would be my mid step as my next printer (2023?24?) will be a Voron 2.4. I’d love to see you do a review on the SV05! THANKS!
Three issues for me are x homing grind fixed with TMC driver change to 68. Flow rate to high in Cura slices, needed reduced to 97% for the most part. Switched to Super Slicer and now no flow problems. Not sure how or why when using SS it changes flow tune settings to 95 when you load file? The biggest issue is getting a consistent Z offset, need about .2mm for good first layer. During bed leveling the probe flashes for one second the mesh read and if that is not close to .2 its a bad first layer. Can work around by add a larger negative value in z offset, but why? Also use gage block with flat head screw adjusted to gantry height when in auto home position with power on, one full step seems accurate enough. Also no explanations for display settings.
I've leveled the X gantry on two home brew printers against the bottom frame and then leveled the bed with the bed adjustment screws against the nozzle, but when the bed has NO adjustment screws leveling the X gantry against the bed makes sense. Is the printer top frame parallel to the bed? Probably not! Now my Ender 3 has no way to level the X gantry as it has only one Z axis drive screw, but cantilever X axis style printers such as the Prusa mini, the old Printerbot Simple, and the Ender-2 are in the same boat. At least it is possible to level the bed to the X axis with the bed adjustment screws.
