Oh man I'm excited for this!! This will be the first bind and fly I bought in almost 3 years. I love building, but I really love that happymodel is taking notes from the community and offering and all in one off the shelf solution for people who are just getting started and maybe don't know all the ins and outs of building. I want to know first hand if I can recommend it to my friends. Thanks for the preview!! Love the rippies!! I've socked away 120 bucks for the end of the month. 😁 Also, you have the best taste in drum and bass, dude! I was actually a drum and bass DJ for 15 years doing festivals and nightclubs around Central Alberta, under the pseudonym Will Power. And this deep melodic introspective drum and bass was my Forte. I still have about six crates of vinyl and Dub plates. Always brings back memories when I watch your content. Much love, bro! 🙏👊🏻🤙🏻
Love the D&B! That's wicked you used to be a DJ. I actually got into UK D&B when I started flying in 2020. I was always into edm, but that UK d&b is pretty legendary.
Great flying. Don’t be afraid to show a few more b roll close up shots of the quad itself. You had a great one at the end on that rotating platform. Nice job
I freaking hate micro soldering😭 so this should be nice to save some weight without spending 2 hours to build a whoop. Thanks for the always honest reviews.
Ive flown my Mob6 elrs (first edition) since release over 1000 times. I hope this one will just be as robust. Seems like a sick little BNF (though the camera does seem a little washed out), and the price point definitely feels fair -especially in 2024..!
Looks like very nice for 1st whoop. Regarding the camera, I started recently with the mobula 8, didn't like the image, changed to the baby rattle 2, and your image, even with the RU-vid compression looks better
I’m excited for this new AIO. I’m tired of my Diamond AIO becoming dislodged in hard crashes. That 4th mounting point is really needed for bashing. Hopefully it won’t weigh much more than the Diamond. I was excited for a new nano camera on the market but I think I’ll keep my Pinch.
I also have more dead diamonds than good ones, but on my whoops with diamonds, using the right camera mount will keep the fc from popping out of the grommets. I use the NBD bee eye camera mount, it has 3 mounts and I put it over all 3 Fc mounts, which makes the Fc backwards. Makes a huge difference and the Fc doesn't pop out at all.
bro I am loving this quad so far. gave me a few 'aha' moments. as a noob with arguable soldering capabilities I am miles off being able to build something this light 😅 but yeh it's a feather even compared to my meteor 65
Great review as always! Have you already taught how to make these curves around the object backwards, if not, you could do a tutorial for us, the flight looks so beautiful!! Happy flights from Brazil!!
good to know the karate tune works for this, I wrote it for the a 2s whoop.. been running it on the hdzero aio mob65 and its pretty good. have a 5n1 version of the air65 coming and will use the logging to dial it in some more
Thanks for an honest review. As a beginner, I bought the previous mobula 6 version this January 2024. It runs on ELRS F4 2 g4 which seems not to be made to handle most powerful batteries like Tattu 300mAh BT2.0. Sometimes, the drone would just shut down without reason and fall when the battery is fully charged. Several people on reddit reported to me to have the same exact issue. I hope this new model handles it better (I would hope so if they decided to go with BT2.0 connector). But you did not report it so I understand you did not have this problem. I need to try this karate preset. Also, could you share what rates you were using? Thanks again.
Great review heads, and some amazing flying,( yeah I’m jealous 😂) it sure looks like a great BNF. Still it would be nice to have an option for motor plugs.
Great flying! I just discovered tiny whoops and wondering what analog goggles I should get. I have DJI goggles 2 so I’m looking for something I can just fly whoops with indoors. Thanks for the help yall 😅
This is interesting to hear. Did you know a lot of pilots remove the ceramic antenna immediately and replace with wire? This has been a trend in whoops for a bit, since elrs ceramic antennas started popping off in crashes. I believe that's why manufacturers switched back to the wire. I trust your experience with it, but to share my own experience, I've had great luck keeping the wire on. I beat the poo out of this bnf during the week I flew for the review! Thank you for the info, very interesting to hear.
The camera is the only disappointment here! Beta's c03 camera blows this away. I would buy this, solder a c03 camera to the board, and call it a day! When the frame breaks, this would make a KILLER fractal 65 build.
I think the price difference alone between micro usb and usb-c when scaled up to how many the manufacturers would need to buy is probably a big factor. Also when we get into these ultralight builds, adding a usb-c would be adding a bit more weight.
@@InfinityLoops i mean, weight wise were probably talking fractions of a gram between the two, price may be a factor but also likely not enough to create that big of a difference. Micro works, it was still surprising since C is pretty much the standard now.
A ready to fly freestyle/race 65 pro whoop thats awesome! If the camera is better than the runcam nano 3 its ok if not it should be better. I really like what they have done. Will there be a pro mob 7 too? ; ) Or a new crux3.....
Great product! However I can't see 12A nor 2s support being useful for 65mm if the SuperX FC basically similar with SuperX HD without MAX7456 OSD chip My suggestion for @happymodelCN is ... for weight saving sake, please use SuperBee Lite FC for this new Mob6 or release new SuperBee Lite FC without MAX7456 OSD chip for digital vtx/cam combo. Also curious how this build will perform if converted to 65mm pro frame with 35mm props.
Sorry if you hear this a lot but would you mind sharing your rates? Really want to learn how to trippy spin but theres something off with my rates. Would be cool to start somewhere
True, but that was a while ago now. The last 2 mob6 to come out (moblite and mob6 elrs) were $100 and $110. This seems in the ballpark to me. But then again I was just looking at 533s BnF 65mm that's $189🫠😄
@@InfinityLoops oh yeah I missed the Moblite series. I guess it's inevitable, all things are going up. With the exchange rate it's especially tough though. What used to cost 9000 yen, now costs 16500 yen (Japan). As they say "it's over 9000!"
I have had good luck so far with the TrueRC patch/stubby combo for HDZ. I ended up 3D printing a new set of mounts for the patches. The other mounts the patches came with didn't hold on great for me. Thank you!
Hey, may I ask you for some help? I flew my Mobula6 '24 and everything was fine. I changed the lipo and suddenly I had no picture in my goggles. I opened Betaflight and got a message (something abaut settings and apply - I can't remember exactly). I pushed one of the two buttons and betaflight was "empty". I downloaded and tried two cli dumps from the Happymodel website and was 90% successful. Everthing works - but the PID-tunes are still lost. The PID-tab shows a warning, that it can cause runaways and motor damage if i will fly like that. Do you - or does anyone has the correct CLI-dump (Mobula 6 elrs v3.0 / BF 4.4.0) for me? I would be really grateful to you. Cheers Stan
Hey Stan 👋 Firstly, can you verify that the version of BF you're on matches the one listed in the cli dump? If you're on the correct version and still having the issue, please email us InfinityLoopsFPV@gmail.com and I can reply with the cli dump I have from when they shipped it to me. Hope you get it figured out.
@@InfinityLoops Hey, thank you very much for your quick reply. I am waiting for an Email from the Happymodel-Support. Maybe they can solve my problem and send me the needed file. If not, I'll be happy to come back to your offer. Thank you again and best regards. Stan
As for range, don't know that there is a noticeable difference. Considering the elrs can outfly the vtx I don't think it will matter too much, but not 100% on that. The reason I'm happy to see the wire instead of the cube is because the cube is infamous for popping off in a crash and getting lost. A lot less likely to happen with the wire.
I flew mine on the lowest cam angle (I usually fly 15° in general). Rates are super subjective, I personally use Default BF rates. 667 on all axis and 0 expo
@@InfinityLoops wow impressive. I don't have too much trouble flying a 5" but a tinywhoop is a bit of a nightmare. Thered like no hang time. Do you use throttle expo?
No throttle expo either. 5" to tinywhoop is a tough transition for sure. Something need more throttle, some need less. Learning to "huck" or flick yourself forward to carry momentum is my secret
@InfinityLoops so I thought my camera angle was low but was probably still at like 15-20 degrees. Took it down more to 5 and now I can control it! Still can't Matty flip but I can race through tight corners and do power loops etc... thanks for the suggestions!
@@UnmannedSky Matty flips with a low cam angle are a bit harder. Try just flying backwards some, learn the angle you need to be to go backwards. Will help a lot for Matty flips!
@@InfinityLoops i don't think so. I know Ciotti also commented on being blurry at certain angle or light or something... But let's see the production version.
Just starting out here and would like to use something like this to learn. What radio and google should I get to use with this that won’t break the bank?
If you are dead set on learning in the air, rtf kits are an easy way to do that. Personally I recommend buying a radio and then a decent sim to learn and practice in. Saves money on repairing your whoop while learning.
I'd like to ask you what you think about tiny hawk series, I own tinyhawk 2 , the little whoop, but comparing to what i see in this video , it is another category... my tiny hawk sucks up a lot of battery and has got no power, the one you fly looks like it's a 2s for the power it displays
Yes with the higher kv, doing controlled throttle is a bit harder, especially on the lower end. Personally I think 28k is probably the max I would take a 65mm build to.
If you want to sit here and do a review that’s fine but the first thing you should let us know is the price because that says the difference between if we want to sit here and watch the rest of it or go watch something else because it’s out of our price range
Price can and will change, most reviewers will say that, that's why they don't really need to say the price. And the quality of the product really determines the value and if the price is worth it. Also this is probably the absolute cheapest bind and fly you can buy, so if this is too expensive then you won't really have any other options.
Hey Heads, amazing review bro! i think that the fact that such a light option is now available on the market is amazing but i know how you fly and even the shittest whoops would look great in your hands so i guess ill have to wait for a pilot like me to try it out and see what happens. planning on building a little whoop to take on a cruise to maybe get some cool shots at the ports. it better be cheap tho cause they may just confiscate it as it is on the list of prohibited items. maybe this will be the one cause its definetly small enough. Thanks again boss!
