Nice Job! Very informative! Thanks for taking the time to make this video. Need to know more about equipment required (type of lathe, source for hand tools and bushings).
The lathe is from Sherline. www.sherline.com/ Tools and supplies, including bushings: timesavers.com/ ronellclock.com/ milehiclocksupplies.com/ www.merritts.com/merritts/public/default.aspx blackforestimports.com/ frankenmuthclock.com/ perrinwatchparts.com/
Nicely done. One question though, had you considered putting the end of that spring around the lower post you stated it would normally go on rather than the odd one above it? why/Why not?
No, I decided to leave it just as original. I can only assume that there was a reason for the designer doing as they did as it required riveting in another post. In the normal position, the spring must have unwound into the second wheel pinion and stopped the clock earlier than the normal 8 day run time. Looking at the strike side, there were also 2 posts riveted onto the plate to direct the spring coils to the outside of the plates. Assuming there was a reason for doing what was done originally, why create a potential problem by installing it other than the way it was designed?
As a novice and learning clock hobbyist, your videos have been very educational for me. But, I have an old Sessions Clock co. clock I cleaned and oiled. It has no chimes, but is clock only. I did not take it apart. It was very, very dirty and writing inside the case said it was cleaned Jan. 1928, and from the looks of how dirty it was, that was the last time. Anyway, my predicament is that now the escapement wheel just spins, and the pendulum just skips and spins over the gear teeth. I guess you could say it is running extremely fast :):) What in the world causes such a thing?. I ask because I cannot find anything about this issue online.
Whatever you do, don't let it run like that or it will ruin the tips of the escape wheel teeth. Your problem is likely that the anchor (strip pallet) has been raised out of its proper position. Look at the arbor that holds the anchor. Its pivot on the front of the movement is in a hole in a little tab that is riveted to the plate. It is attached by a hard friction fit and can be moved to allow the arbor and the anchor to fit deeper or shallower into the teeth of the escape wheel. It is set too shallow. Move the tab so it moves the arbor and pallet closer to the teeth. Keep moving it until the teeth are released one at a time. That tab is difficult to move and very, very small movements can make a big difference. You can move it by using a pliers at the base of the tab and twisting it to move the arbor or you can use a punch or screwdriver with a small hammer to tap the end of the tab to move it deeper. Go slowly. When you get the teeth escaping one at a time, examine the teeth very carefully. They may have been bent or the tips of the teeth bent over. They will need to be straightened if they have been distorted. That's done by using a tweezers with a broad, flat end, such as those used by women to pluck eyebrows. Grasp each tooth and repeatedly pull while applying pressure to the tweezers until the tweezer comes off the front edge of the tooth. Repeat each tooth until the ends are returned to their proper shape.
Just got to thinking. My reply was based on a movement with escape gear and pallets between the plates. If you have a movement where the escape gear is outside the front plate and the anchor (pallets) are on a pin held on with an "L" shaped clip. That anchor is also moved in the same way, as the pin that it is on is attached to a moveable tab.
Hi Don, good to see you are still at it, good video by the way, can you tell me where you get your Bushings from you seem to be able to get them in larger quantities many thanks...
The bit is a reamer from timesavers.com/search.html?q=reamer&go=Search The battery operated drill is a Milwaukee images.ffx.co.uk/tools/4933440568.jpg?w=1280&h=960&scale=both available where such tools are sold or on Amazon.
I don't remember what the size was. Measure the width and thickness. Measure length the best you can. For the inner coils, it helps to have a cloth tape measure used by tailors and seamstresses to measure chest, waist and hips. When you look up available springs with the same width and thickness, pick one that's closest to the length you have measured. There are only so many available. Here's a list of those available from Timesavers timesavers.com/files/mainsprings.pdf A very common spring for old American-made clocks is 3/4 x .018 x 96 inches.
Came by your channel while looking up info on a recently inherited New Haven Tiber clock. It needs a good service (which I think is long overdue) and I wondered what kind of servicing these old clocks require. Now, I know. Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us. Hoping I can find a knowledgeable craftsman in my area to trust with my heirloom.
You might start by finding a chapter of the National Association of Watch and Clock Collectors in your area, contact them and ask for recommendations for repairmen in your area. Members of the NAWCC must abide by a code of conduct. www.nawcc.org/local-chapters/
Wish I lived closer. I'd help you in your garden to stand over your shoulder and learn more of this craft. You inspire me, kind sir. I struggle through clock and watch repair, and have a son that is very interested as well. I appreciate your videos. Very helpful.
Thank you. Just keep plugging along, and encourage your son to stick with it. Keep in mind that I've been at it for over 50 years and I STILL have only scratched the surface on what can be learned about it.
Thoroughly enjoyed the video. Nicely presented and clear to follow. Feeling a bit more confident at tackling my 'lock down project' although I know your skills even with a damaged hand are far superior to mine. That and your clear 'know how' garnered over many years.
I had a mechanism recently which I did not have the strength to torque the let-down tool. I ended up putting the whole mechanism in my spring winder, and that made it much easier.
I had both hips replaced 12 and 7 years ago I sure know what you mean about damage in your hand Getting my hips done has changed my life All the pain of the whole process is exhausting I really enjoy watching your expertise with clocks and metal working Bless you
Yes, in 2021, I had the left hip replaced in May, the right one in August and the right knee in December. Now, in the spring of 2023, I'm about 30 to 40 pounds lighter and the swelling is gone in my hands. I feel like I'm 20 years younger and the repairs are one heck of a lot easier. Thanks for the comments. Bless you, as well.
Good evening... so first things first... I really enjoy your Videos and they have helped me a great deal as I begin my clock fixing journey. second... I have a New Haven Tambor #17 with that movement and it has the same spring configuration on the time side... I too thought it had been replaced.. but as i see from the video this must be how they came...Thank you again!
I have a New Haven exactly like the one in the video and it has the going spring on the special stud just like yours... I assume it is how they did it... my problem is that when the clock strikes the hour... sometimes it doesn't drop into the slot, but continues on around for a few complete revolutions before the tang drops into its slot and of course that is the wrong slot... what could be wrong? I thought it might be the spring tension on the arm, but using my finger to apply pressure doesn't help... in fact it feels like the lever is locked out...
Look to the cam on the third wheel. There is a notch on the cam that has a wire rider that should hook into the slot at exactly the same time as the lever on the count wheel drops into a deep slot. The edge of the notch may be worn, allowing the wire to not catch and stop the strike, or the wire may be bent upward very slightly, keeping it from consistently falling deep enough to stop the strike. Also, the count wheel lever may be dragging on some deep slots, keeping the wire rider on the third wheel from dropping deep enough to stop the strike. Make sure the count wheel lever ("tang") is dropping freely into the deep slots.
Hi, I've been watching your clock repair videos and enjoy them very much. I've been repairing old American clocks for about 10 years, and learn as I go along. Your videos have helped me a lot. Thank you!
You've single handedly got me into clock restoration through watching your videos. I've just restored a Seth Thomas 5 7/8 movement kitchen clock with the separate alarm mechanism. The case was smashed but I'm fine with woodwork. The movement had a broken spring on the time side, missing verge and suspension and damaged escapement wheel. I did some bushes also. I found it difficult making a new verge/anchor fit and still don't think its entirely correct but the clock does run. Any tips on how to set it up properly please.
If you're concerned about the escape wheel and verge not being right, count the number of teeth on the escape wheel and order a replacement set. timesavers.com/c-325836-clock-repair-replacement-parts-verges-verge-components.html Otherwise, I'm not sure what you mean by setting it up properly.
I enjoy your videos very much. I've recently started working on clocks and watches, finding it very rewarding. When you have the time...At some point would you show us your lathe and go over your cleaning process? Or do you have videos on them already?
Lol....quit fighting that terry-cloth towel snaggin' all the time and buy a rubber mat.....something! If you have a movement that's never been bushed....and the plate pivot hole is elongated with wear, how do find the proper center? I thought the 'smooth' broach was a called 'burnishing' broach or is that something different?
I like using an absorbent cloth since I hand dry the parts after cleaning and rinsing. The cloth also catches dropped objects such as flying e-clips. I've been doing this since 1968, I'm 80 years old, set in my ways and not about to change. You're certainly welcome to post your own videos and show us all how you would do the job. It's easy to find proper center. The pivot hole wears in the direction that the wheel (gear) train applies pressure. One side of the hole remains unworn. You'll see me move the wheel train back and forth to see the amount of wear and to identify the worn side. Filing the unworn side an amount equal to the worn side makes the reamer self-center on the original center. Broaches are referred to as "cutting" and "smooth". A "burnisher" is a flat metal tool used to polish and surface harden the pivots of the wheels.
@@dperry428 Thanks for the info on pivot holes! Of course, the tension would be applied in one direction, leaving the other part of the hole unworn....great theory. No offense, but watching the terry cloth repeatedly snag on the movement was painful. I'm between 70 & 80 yrs old. I certainly would try something if I thought it might work better. I have no idea how to make RU-vid videos, nor do I want to. Not criticizing your vid, just the terry cloth on the bench. I have a nice garage shop I just completed, plus a 'hobby lobby' as my friends call it, inside. I worked on clocks in my youth but never got as far as repairing worn pivot holes. I run a repair clinic now that I recently retired. Clocks are walking themselves into my life again. I have mixed emotions about that. Always was difficult to find people willing to pay for the hrs that go into splitting, cleaning, and re-oiling a movement....not to mention actual repair.
Thank for the concern. I had an injection done to the hip joint. I'm walking without a cane and my hand is no longer swollen. I replaced one of the springs.
Hi Mr. Perry - thanks for sharing! I do have a question though - when you clean the plates, do you loose the lacquer (I do), and if so, do you bother to relacquer them? Thanks also for the encouragement you provide to your viewers. As always, have a happy day!
These movements don't have any lacquer on them. That's usually found on better quality movements. When I come across one that has lacquer and the plates aren't stained, I hand-clean them without ammonia, which is the culprit that removes the lacquer. On the rare occasion that I have to clean a plate to the extent that lacquer needs reapplied, I put toothpicks in the pivots holes and spray with a clear lacquer.
I'm doing very well, thank you. The injection has made my life normal again. It is also helpful to live in smalltown America. We definitely have "social distancing" here.
What parts are you looking for? Generally, the only way to get parts for these movements is to buy one for parts on ebay. You can buy some things, like pendulum bobs, suspension springs, hands and mainsprings from timesavers.com
Thank you for the video. What size nut is used to hold the clock hands on. I recently purchased one of these and I am trying to restore it. Also, what is the part after this. The clock only has the hour and minute hand and is missing the parts to secure it. Thank you.
I don't have that clock here anymore. I don't recall the actual size of the nut. The hand has a slot that fits on the end of the arbor and the nut is slightly cup-shaped and is the only thing needed to secure the minute hand. You could add a domed washer under the nut if you don't have an original nut and need extra pressure to hold the hand. You might like to read this: www.clockworks.com/posts/mechanical-clock-hand-nuts
Good afternoon Mr. Perry. You helped me greatly on my Hermle rebuild, working like a champ. Now rebuilding the same tambour mantel clock as shown in your video. On the strike side, how did you keep the thin three-tabbed retainer clip in place for the strike (counting) gear? my clip won't stay in place. As always, a huge thanks for your videos.
The one tab should have a tip that is bent and goes into the hole on one of the wheel spokes. That keeps it in place. Sounds as if it is missing on yours. To remove it, that tab must be lifted and the other tabs slid out from the slot around the arbor. If it is forced off, the tiny end may have been bent under and needs be straightened so it can go in the spoke hole. Otherwise, you may need to make a new one from brass shim stock or, perhaps, solder on a tab.
I'm sorry, but I have many viewers from Brazil (Portuguese), France, Germany, Ukraine, Russia, Iraq, India, Malaysia, Korea and Taiwan. I just can't do subtitles for all of them. Besides, I don't know how to put subtitles in any language. I only speak English, German and Korean.
There's no real magic. With the count wheel lever in a deep notch on the count wheel, the third wheel (the one with the notched cam) should have its lever in the notch and the fourth wheel (warning wheel) should have the pin on it at the top of the movement. It gets tricky keeping them in place during assembly. That's why some people loosen a screw, spread the plates a bit, disconnect the fourth wheel pinion from the third wheel and adjust the warning wheel after assembly.
Ha, ha! This one is relatively clean compared to some that I've seen. Check this one out: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-kuzm97fhkkk.html
Here is one way, with a spring winder: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-4oHBN6KhUnk.html Here is another way, using a different tool: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JcUq4tSj98I.html A third way is to put the wheel and spring back between the plates, clamp or tie with wire the wheel to the plate frame, wind the spring, remove the clamp and let the spring down with the let-down key.
If you mean the round one with the half-plate in between, yes, I have one of my own that needs a bushing in the middle plate. At some point, I'll get to doing my own movements that are in need of repair. This is going to be a rougher winter for me. I have had both hips replaced and now will have my right knee replaced in December.
@@dperry428 yes i can relate to that i hate to see the winter come anymore i used to enjoy change of seasons but now it brings on to many aches and pains hope your knee job goes well for you take care and god bless !
Nope! Sorry, but you're wrong on this one. Every image I've found of this exact model movement is put together exactly in this way. I, too, thought the same thing, but the pin was too big and in the wrong place for it to simply be a stop for the spring. In fact, were it simply a stop, it would stop the spring long before the full 8-day run.
I believe you, but what is weird is I have 3 of those running ,same movements all 3 connected to the bottom corner , they all run for 8 days. They came to me like that and thats how I reassembled them .
Just to add, i recently stripped an identical New Haven movement fitted in a school clock and the main springs were fitted in exactly the same way as the movement in this vid, I.e. with one loop over a smaller stud and one around the plate support pillar.
