I’ve seen a ton of comparisons between multiboard and Honeycomb wall, but man would I never give up those pegboard holes & hooks. They’re strong, print easy, you can get them in and out repeatedly without breaking anything, etc.
Jonathan, you are the mutts. Nuff said.The fact that I bought my 3D printer just after you released Multiboard is fantastic. I'm still chugging away printing core tiles, but look forward to the day that they grace my utility room wall.
There are 2-3 videos now on how to assemble and mount the Multiboard backplates but now that Multigrid has had an update/upgrade I would LOVE to see a video that goes more into how that system goes together, aside from the brief glimpse in the launch video. Like do all the compartments naturally slide, or do you need a particular part to do that? Do you need a base AND a plate etc.
That removal tool works GREAT. Was a little tough to get together cause my printer just isn’t quite dimensionally accurate enough with the filament I used, but man is that tool stronger than you’d think.
I had the same dimensional accuracy issues with my printer. I would recommend checking out one of Stefan's (CNC Kitchen) new videos about the califlower. After a couple tries, I got my printer to print the multiboard perfectly.
@@soysmc2933 I actually bought it when I saw that video but had just switched over to klipper and didn’t think I had enough other stuff tuned since cauliflower is more of a last step, but thanks for the reminder! Definitely should do that now! Do you have to do it per filament or is it a more general thing? My accent snaps and stuff are all silk PLA which expands a bit. Think I have the extrusion multiplier set to compensate but if I have to do a separate profile for silks I will.
@@heyspookyboogie644 I would say the califlower is more of a mid procces thing. I printet mine, when i had calibrated Z-offset, flow/extrusion multiplier, linear advance, and temperature. After this, I was ready for the Califlower. First of all you need to calibrate your X and Y steps per mm (this you also do with the califlower). This way you are making sure your moters actually moves fx. 100 mm when it is told to. For instance, my bedslinger only moved about 98 mm in the Y. So print it out, and in the steps per mm section, input you old values from printer.cfg, and the excel will give you your new value. Print the model again, until you are happy with your results. Now you can think about other types of filament. I have calibrated every type of plastics (PLA, PETG Etc), and every manufacturer of the same material. For the other filaments, instead of tuning your steps per mm, you tune your extrusion multiplier. This you do the same way as before, just with another setting in the excel (extrusion multiplier). Ps. I think Orca, and Superslicer is the only ones who have per filament extrusion multipliers, so might wanna switch for the convince. I recommend Orca slicer :) Hope this helps :)
I'm not sure of the feasibility, but it would be nice if the planner also included a total estimated amount of filament needed and maybe even a quick cost per kg.
Finally made a couple little pieces that pop onto the multiboard shelf brackets to hold pex tubing for a tape rack. Way more space and filament efficient than other tape racks I’ve seen.
Oooooooh a multiboard planner would be amazing! I’ve reorganized my multiboard like 3 times in a week cause every time I wanna add a couple things the layout doesn’t really work efficiently and it’s not quite as easy as a normal pegboard to move stuff around.
Can’t wait to see more shelf stuff. Been trying to figure out how to use multiboard to organize all those plastic divider boxes when you buy screw / part assortments off Amazon.
one thing i'd like to see is different shapes for the back board that can still interlock with each other and the stand shapes so you can get some designs going on like a multiboard wall in the shape of an Octogon and what not.
This is so cool, looking to get into 3d printing, this stuff is just insipring. Been watching videos from the different systems, amazed by these individuals. Way to go man
Hi !! Great work, I´m looking to start with multiboard at home. I want to print my tiles with a 0.8 nozzle but ... 0.2 layer, and the details needed, is this impossible? Thanks!
Does the tile height being 6.5 or 6.4mm change anything if your first layer height isn’t 0.2? I use 0.3 or 0.35 for the first layer usually and 0.2 after that.
I feel like I’m missing something. Why put all of this development time into multigrid instead of just improving gridfinity? At the end of the day they serve the same basic purpose and I don’t see a reason why you couldn’t apply your improvements to gridfinity. The system already exists and has a big following and library of parts. What am I missing?
@@elainajourney multiboard is just way easier to assemble than assembling something that is not designed for mounting it to a wall. Gridfinity is designed for use on flat areas like drawers or smth.
Sorry you feel that way, I subed on an alt account and found it relatively simple. I had to go was go to thangs > settings > down to billing and just click cancel membership. Mind sharing how it was a pain?
