When covid was still going strong, i took my 2nd stimulus and bought a rigexpert AA-600 and a stryker V1. At the time it was the only one available pre-modified on ebay. I wish i would have took the time to get a later model and mod it myself. I wish more people in this hobby would share knowledge and teach like you. I'm sure this info will help in the future, thanks for helping us out.
Appreciate that mate. The problem with teaching is that if I say something I have 10 clowns that want to go forum shop to find someone that says its wrong, for some minor reason. I wrote something up one day and the ENTIRE ONE PARAGRAPH ANSWER was said to be wrong. Why? because i flipped a couple of characters in a word - common misspelling mistake. So it was "all wrong" I am getting too old and too grumpy for armchair engineers :)
Thanks, I did this on my new 655 and it works perfectly. I also found the way to get into the service menu and adjusted the low and high power set points and the low and high modulation rates. I set it so I could adjust my dead key down to a watt and a half and the high to about 20 watts. I adjusted the low power modulation for a maximum PEP swing of about 50 watts. I have a 2 pill 1446 (on low) driving an 8 pill 2290 (Texas Star Hotplate) into a 5/8 ground plane and getting around 1400 watts PEP out. Everyone says it sounds great. Styrker radio's rock......
Hold down the color button while turning the radio on. Rotate channel selector to item you want to change, key up the radio and rotate channel selector to change setting, un key radio and setting is saved. Accessing the service menu at your own risk. If you are not sure on what you're doing, stay out of service menu but if you do write down the factory setting before you change anything thing. The only things I changed was AM low power, AM high power, AM low modulation and AM high modulation. I put the AM low and high power to 82 (keeps my dead key around 1-1/2 watts no matter where the RF power is) i set the AM low modulation to 45 (maximum swing at low power) and AM high modulation to 60 (reduced modulation to avoid distortion at full power. At low power radio keys 1-1/2 watts and swings about 10 watts PEP. At full power radio key is the same but swings full output 60 to 65 watts PEP. I selected these settings so I can run my 2x8 box with radio on low power or run barefoot with radio alone at full power. Your settings may vary but is a good starting point.
Just now watched your video and converted mine....Works great and your video was extremely helpful. For some reason, I didn't have to switch modes...I soldered the wire and it was already there when I turned it on.THANKS!
Mark I have a question sir, after the mod you can use the radio for cb, but can you still use it for ham also. I’m currently studying for my ham and this would be really cool. Thank you for to your time
I did my buddies radio tonight and it would not power on option. I just hit the band switch and 11m was there. it had the 6 thru holes with just solder in them. I hope I jumped it properly....it works fine. I did top and bottom on the left topside
Thanks for that video! I've been seeing some mentions about "Adjusting the Bias" on the SR955. What is that about? I mean, why would they want to do that in the first place? Rich
The audio chain stuff, yeah... but generally the amps that people try to put in there are not shielded properly and you end up with issues. It can be done it's just done poorly 99% of the time.
How can I buy a new 955 v2 that has got the wire to snip to convert it to 11m.??? I can snip a wire but my hands aren't steady enough to be soldering inside a $440 radio. The only radio "shop" that works on cb's want to charge like ,$220 to convert peak and tune one, which is crazy since the v2 is all in the software (no golden screwdriver necessary).
I would call some dealers and ask for one that is just modded but not touched. Now, their price is their price but 220 dollars is excessive in my opinion.
Gawd.... what i could do with 220$..... just to undo 4 screws and snip a wire, or solder a wire..... Idear.... go to a parts shop that sells resisters and capacitors to people, and ask the guy at the counter if he knows someone that is handy with a soldering iron..... (for example, these old pioneer hifi repair and recap people could do this job in a second and proberly wouldnt charge you a cent if you showed them this video on your phone to the technician...... Other from that, buy a soldering iron (25watt, small type) and practice on an old circuit board untill you master the skill..... S.A.S motto.... "he who dares wins" Yes im from the u.k....
I have added the wire to my radio (955) but when I power on the radio holding the func and color keys I do NOT get the “ham mode” It just goes to the standard screen. I do however get 11 meter now. Any ideas why my radio is different?
Hey Mark, I didn't check beforehand but after I did this mod all I can get out of the radio on any channel is 1.4 watts using an inline swr/power meter? I noticed when I booted up after the jumper was installed it didn't go to Ham mode, nor was there any "HF" to switch to. I do have all the CB channels on band D, but I'm concerned because of everything else. This is for my SR-655HPC. Thanks for any advice.
On my 655 the top and middle solder points are soldered together. It doesn't look like the 655 you are together but separated, can any one help on this
Well you still have to go into the menu to change from HF to HAM and vice versa. You still have to add the wire to the current radios so adding a switch would not change anything for you.
Im led to believe that it already is set up to work after either the snip, or the addition of the wire. You could have a chat with your tech, but it should be fine from what this channel has said.
Mine isn’t giving me the option for ham/hf mode after modification while turning the radio as instructed. The video wasn’t clear of you would have access to Band 4 before the modification. I did the modification before ever powering the radio on so now I’m not sure where I’m at.
I have a 955hpc thats about maybe 10 years old and brand new. Obtained from a family member bought this days before he passed and now I am finally ready to use it. I dont see a wire on my version, and my board looks completely different than yours. any way you can point me in right direction?
@@Mark19960 Thanks, after posting my comment I did some research on the unit and found that it is indeed modded already and tested at the shop it was purchased at. Now I realize that it's just too big to install in the vehicle I wanted to install in so it's going up for sale soon.
To answer your question as to an RF generator "blowing up" or causing it to "have distortion" ... not usually no. RF generators have an RPP system. RPP being reverse power protection. If you transmitted on a radio into it.. They will go clunk.. and scream RPP at you on the screen. The input is disconnected. Unless you shove a lot of power into one (usually > 50 watts CW depending on frequency) it's going to survive quite happily after you take away the RF source and usually hit a key or button on the screen to have it start generating RF again. The people that design RF generators already thought of that.....
True. I will add it to the list of items to cover when I go over the differences. There are some reasons why shortening the radio isn't the best idea either.
Doing that would be a re-tool / new chassis, doesn't make sense dollar wise as well as that extra aluminum chassis may help heat dissipation on that V reg side. IMHO
Yer.... 19960 (19-9-60) in the uk we would say 19th of 9th month September 1960, which would make him 63 years old, 64 in this year of 2023.... lol....
It increases the ammount of channels or bands that you can use, but with the wider spread, you must keep an eye on your swr readings..... a variable swr tuner with "load" and "plate" adaptor/meter would be very usefull, but i believe some car aerils like whips can be tuned to do both the 11 and 10 meter bands by an alankey sliding the whip in and out abit for whichever you want to use...... 73's
@@vicrod74 I see both sides. I work with both sides. It might be a "waste of space" but the practical reasons remain.. and ultimately the decision to keep things as they are was the most sensible one.
