Always inspiring to see other female techs just doing their thing! Has helped me and I’m sure countless other would-be techs know we can do it too! Thank you!
"I'm able to tell you are trustworthy from this 1 minute video you edited and had the control over what was posted" You're not too bright are you bud???
Question: Do you recall the type of bolt that fastens the circular PCV “keeper” to the valve cover? Is it a T27? Anyone? Thank you. Answer: Torx T30 - the bolt head is rather shallow, so make sure you’ve got the driver seated well to avoid stripping it.
@@takenusername true but with my RF it felt just like my NC with the top down and I never even notice its a fastback when driving, this is thanks to the rear window folding down to give an open top illusion which works very well, only negative is more wind noise than a standard soft top.
Very Good but not great job. Definitely torque them bolts to spec. It truly makes a difference in the long term. I’m a Automotive tech of just about 21 years. I don’t torque every bolt I touch. However I do for certain fasteners. Example: 1997 BMW 540i. It’s the shop owner’s car. Mint condition with over 180k on it. Been working there for 11 years now. Back about 9 years ago I did a lot of work resealing up the engine. A lot of small oil leaks including the water pump and the aluminum crossover pipes in the valley and back of heads. Made sure I torqued the valve covers. Every time he opens the hood he comes over to me and says, I can’t believe the valve covers are still dry. He used to have them done every 2-3 years due to leaks. After 4-5 years later he asked what I did to stop them from leaking again. Just torqued them to spec.
You seem to replace a lot of crap on your cars. Don’t you think you may have some lemons at this point. I haven’t replaced that much on my 3 cars in 6 years
