New wheel bearings, rotors, and hub flanges for the Land cruiser 100 series 

Your Cruiser videos are better and easier to follow than ones done by mechanics. Thanks for saving us dollars Chow 👍

Sorry to post this in public comments. But this is NOT how to service wheel bearings", on a 100 series. 1) never mix races. If bearing are reused, it's important they go back in same race they came from. If bearing replaced, always replace race with bearing it came with. No press is needed. 2) Always fill cavity of wheel hub with grease, out to bearings. Centrifugal force pushes grease around in the wheel hub. If hub cavity dry, grease will be forced out of bearing into hub cavity, and bearings will burn up. 3) Best to have small outer bearing in wheel hub, as you place wheel hub on spindle of steering knuckle. This way wheel hub will not cock off at angle, possibly damaging inner oil seal (you just installed), as you let go to retrieve the bearing. 4) 5ft-lbf on adjusting nut is just starting point. These wheel bearings like to be set very tight. How tight depend on condition of bearings, the better condition the tighter. To find the proper torque on adjusting nut, factory recommend using a spring scale to set breakaway preload between 9.5.-15lb. Pre-load is the goal not torque. I get torques of anywhere from 20ft to 80ft-lbf (depending on condition of bearings & race, better the higher) on adjusting nut to hit a target of 12.5 lb breakaway preload. 5) Always recheck preload after torquing locking nut to 47ft-lbf, than lock locking washer on nuts. 6) Never reuse snap ring. 7) always check and set snap ring gap. Tips: a) wheel bearing service is recommend every 30K miles, sooner with over-sized tires, lifted, regular off-road use. b) Lube axle bearing and bushing every 30K miles also. c) Replace brake rotor if needed, after cleaning wheel hub and before installing wheel bearings & packing cavity with grease. d) Torque brake rotor bolts to spec. 7) De-grease brake rotor disk front and back sides, as final step. This is easiest to do, before place on the hub flange.

I really like that you get right to it and stick to what you’re doing. Your style makes it very easy to follow along, PERFECT for a how to video! Thanks! I hope someone takes you up on the steering wheel install offer

Hey Chris, its always advisable to change the outer race, also a tip change gloves when packing grease to minimize contaminates. thanks

To race or not to race. The old race could have microcracks and material fatigue. The race could have a wear pattern that you are now putting on the new bearing surface. Even though it's more work, I would recommend changing the race with the bearings. That way you know it's all good for another 150K - 200K miles. When I did this on my cars when I was a young man it wasn't that difficult, the race popped out with a screw driver and a few taps around the back rim of the race.

Great Video: Just tried it. I have a couple of comments / lessons learned. Dust Cap - Taking off the dust cap is easier with a pipe wrench and if you are not replacing the flange it will help keep you from gouging it up. Rotor/Hub - Getting the rotor separated from the Hub was tough. - loosening the bolts on the back of the hub with an impact wrench, I did the following - sprayed them with pb blaster - used the impact wrench to bump them back and forth (loose/tight) over and over until they broke loose - elevate the rotor with the hub hanging down. Used a piece of 4x4 over the hub and used a dead blow hammer. It took a while but it came out. put something soft on the ground below the hub. When it falls out you don't want the bolts hitting driveway Split / Retainer ring - to get the split ring to go on was tough. I had to get a larger split ring plier that would spread farther than the one I had. - The snap ring plier that I ended up buying on Amazon is the best one I have ever owned. You don't even have to change out the head to get it to spread vs squeeze. Much higher quality than the ones I have had in the past. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000TG80SY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Bearings - I would also invest in the wheel bearing packing tool. It is a pain to do it by hand.

Great detailed vid! Thanks! Ps - re the clunking noise/thump - I've had a number of 100 series cruisers, and it's usually actually the driveshaft (just lube it properly in all the pertinent locations usually gets rid of it). Cheers :)

Best video on RU-vid for this job, I remember there was only 2 videos on this bearing and front brake disk, defiantly doable for a average hand person. Defiantly need a torque wrench and that big socket, my brake cylinder was ceased so I had to buy couple remanufactured calipers. Good video! This video will more review in the future when lc100/lx470 gets a little less expensive as for a off-road toy.

Great video, thanks. 4 months old but I would have changed the bearing races while you got the hub assembly torn apart. You can borrow a bearing tool from your local parts stores.

Great video, only thing I would suggest is to check the preload -14.5lb.

Chow ur a life saver. I just finished an upper and lower ball joint job and im doing this job next. Officially my favorite yt channel.

Have you done a steering rack on your 100?

Hello from where you bay this part parts ? online ?

Do you have any AC leaks? I checked the common Passenger fender well bend there was any rust like the other people had, just wondering if you ran into this issue yet, please let me know

Did this actually solve the "Clunk" issue?

Thanks for this Video You Are doing nice Videos but My english is Not so good to understand everything you Talk 😅 Cheers from Austria 😎

Bearings come as a set , you have remove the race. It’s not that hard without a press. And installation bad either. Inner and outer. Use Loyola bearings for best job.

when i have time, i will try to do this in my '04 LC. great video

Niceeee I just change the brake pad and the bearing my 100 series 😎

Chow, Thanks for posting these videos and the links to parts you buy. They are truly appreciated. Do you by any chance know about Toyotapartsdeal.com ? They usjally have pretty good pricing on OEM parts. If you have a stealership in your area, that doesn't make money off parts, they will usually match the price if you purchase the parts from them. Just trying to help another Cruiser buddy😎

Hi Chowcares, A superb video to the point and nicely done. Ive got 260K Kms on my 100 and now got the confidence to do this after watching your video. As mentioned by some (just some cc) having gone all the way I would recommend as well the racers replaced with new. Almost a must. And from an engineering best practises view, lock washes / Tab washers / spring clips and nuts should be replaced with new. In fact lock washers / lock nuts must never be reused. I still applaud you on this video makes it look very easy to do as well.

Just ordered some flanged to do this job myself

nice video. Gives me a lot of confidence that I can do this too :)

Thank you very much best Toyota Land Cruiser💯 rotors change videos in you tube 👍👍👍

You're supposed to initially tighten the inner nut to 4 lb then you need to see how much weight it takes to turn with a fish scale and READJUST the tq on the nut until the proper amount of weighg on the fish scale .....usually with new bearings your ginna be closer to 30-40 ft lbs.......leaving it like this and not checking how many lbs it takes to turn is wrong your bearings will wear out in no time. Google it there are many threads on this on the forums

Curious, where did you learn how to do this? Are you a mechanic or is this hobby for you?

Subbed!

Use koyo bearings need to preload the bearing when installing..

This video and others have been super helpful to me, thank you! New owner of a 2005 LC with 225k in Michigan, so lots to do! Also, these nuts.😂

Quick question. Planning on doing this real soon. For parts I’m guessing buying double of each part listed for both driver and passenger.

Great video, you got me out of a jam trying to figure out how to get the cone washers out. Saved me $750-$1k up here (Seattle area).

This has been a very helpful video, thanks! Excuse my ignorance, but are these flanges only on the front axels? How about the back axel?

This is it? I just got quoted $2300 for this. Thanks for making this video Chow

When you jack up the SUV and you do the shake test on the tire and it wobbles instead of being tight, does that mean the bearings need to be replaced like in your video?

I am having problem separating hub from the front rooter. any suggestions? Thanks.

How do you find parts 1 and 3 of this series?

Love your videos but I cringed when you broke loose that flange with your Tq wrench

Races matched to bearings...change both to have a chance to last another 200000 miles 🙂

I gotta ask, for the full job (rotor replacement , bearing replacement, etc) is it essentially the same for both front and rear? Of course the front and rear pads are different but I’m just checking for like bearings in case I wanna completely go through my 360k mile Land Cruiser and make things tight again!

Dude, this is a great video and I am going to tackle it soon.... some say to use a fish scale

Torque values for mounting the rotor-to-hub with the five bolts?

Bad practice not to change the bearing outer race with the new roller.

Would it be a good idea to use some antisieze on the cone washers to make it easier to remove later if needed?

Thank you for sharing, subscribed! :)

Thanks for the help chow

Nice rx-7s

Nice job very clear and detailed

Definitely replace the bearing races with new bearings. I believe they are usually matched but could be thinking of older vehicles. You can use the old bearing as the press to tap the new race into place, just working your way around the race. For the preload on the lock washers/spindle nuts you should set the preload on the first nut so that the break away is around 15lbs (using a fish scale). This will set everything properly to ensure your preload on the spindle, bearings, etc. is all done properly. Read up on the MUD forums on it (user 2001LC has done a huge write-up and multi-part video series on it). But there is some discussion as to whether the FSM torque specs are on the "light" side. Another thing you should do for good measure is when you have the first washer on, you put an M8x1.25 thread bolt in the end of the axles and pull the axle in and out to help work out any bubbles in the grease that may be in there. Awesome job though dude!! Great video as always.