Always great information. Foundations are important, especially if there are any vibrations or side load impacts. Years ago, we set up a 48x60 inch jaw crusher. The man they sent out to set it up left all kinds of voids in the blocking. I complained about his blocking. I told him that it would not take the movement. The first load through the jaw plant started to move. We spent the next two days stabilizing the plant. We crushed 160k yards through that plant, and it never moved. The total weight of the plant was 105k pounds.
Anther great video Richard; one comment, however, those of us who watch your channels would be well served to "do as you say and do". I have learned more from watching you build your homestead than from the others channels to which I am subscribed.
G'day from Down Under. Looking forward to seeing the new Wood Mizer in action. With all your detailed and thorough preparations, it should go without a hitch.😊
Thanks for sharing with us Richard. We enjoy what your doing on both channels. If you all find it easier to combine them or keep them separate is up to you. We just enjoy your videos and the fun you share with us. Fred.
Hey, Not sure but seems like folks like the “chat” instead of the “work” videos that take so much time and effort to make. Our review channel is growing and can’t figure out why, lol
We called it a 3 pounder as well...but somewhere down the road I started saying " bring me the man hammer"....and it stuck...at least with the buddies I worked with
Overdoing things is not a bad thing Richard. From the look of everything you have done so far, you made some very wise decisions. Thank you for your in depth explanations.
Your foundation should hold up well. The Lx150 is going to look nice with the wood in the background. When is the ETA for the upgrade, or is it a surprise to the Channel?
I’m with Jennifer, I’ve always called it a “small sledge hammer”. I looked up the definition of sledge hammer and all references stated it had a long handle. I guess that is why they call it 3 pound hammer.
Richard when you add to much water in concrete, when the concrete dries it is a weaker concrete. As a general rule, every additional inch of slump decreases strength by approximately 500 psi. So for example, if you ordered 5-inch slump concrete and received 7½ inches, a mix designed to be 4000 psi would end up being 2500 psi. This represents a serious loss in strength, especially if you were placing exterior concrete in a freeze/thaw climate where the standard requirement is 4000 psi for proper durability. People talk about dry pouring concrete, that to weakens concrete as it takes agitation to activate the chemical reaction. In road for highways and interstates building thy try for a slump of 1 because the concrete is compacted, as the concrete is hauled in dump-trucks and delivered to the concrete layer, which also vibrates it and compact it. But ready mix bag concrete like you bought it is not recommended to exceed the amount of water specified on the bag, as the mix generally is formulated for a slump of 3 or 4. In the concrete you poured in the very soupy state, all of the larger aggregate in the mixture, before it set up, settled to the bottom 25% of the pour height, with all of the lighter particles in the concrete floating to the top. So in you foundation for your sawmill you have what us called stratification of the concrete. Over time the surface of you foundations being mostly Portland will chip off exposing the aggregate. You see this happening on sidewalks, driveways and concrete wall, where the concrete was poured to wet. When I was 19 I worked in concrete construction of grain silos and we poured the concrete at a slump of 2 to 3, and w was shown example of slump of 8 or 9, and when the test cylinder was sawed in half all the aggregate was in the bottom 1/3, and the pressure test the concrete was no at 5000 Pis, and was around 500 psi or less. To much Water in concrete mixture weaken the concrete , and I cringed when I say you pouring that 12 slump concrete. On you next pour take and make a 8”x8”x12” corn and fill it with concrete and let it dry, then cut it lengthwise and you will see the rock are in the bottom , sand Portland will make up the top2/3 and the concrete will be very brittle.
Thanks for the info. Mostly I use quikrete which is mostly poured dry. If I use mortar then I have to mix. Never had any issue with either method. They have set up good just like I left them and anchor bolts are tight pulling 6x6 to the footer. It was a “Hot” job in this extreme heat, but done and has turned out really nice.
@@OutpostReview Quikrete only recommends dry pour on fence post only, on concrete slabs it is not recommended as the concrete is very weak and fails. Several of the Ready Mix companies all have the sam warning on there site about Dry pouring concrete. Dry pouring is often considered easier than wet pouring because it eliminates the step of mixing the concrete first. However, dry pouring has several disadvantages, including a lower quality final product, a higher risk of cracking or uneven surfaces, and a higher potential for costly repairs or replacements. I actually watched a video on RU-vid where a building Engineer did a test showing the strength of Dry pour concrete against wet pour mixed according to the directions on the bag. The dry pour shattered at less than 600 psi and the wet pour shattered at 4500 psi. He used 4000 psi concrete. It works fine for fence post, but not driveways or sidewalks. Pouring concrete in Oklahoma in 100+ temps, I has to use dry ice chips in concrete to keep it from setting up to fast to all work time.
