Lived on the Balboa Peninsula (Miramar and I Street) from the mid 60's to the mid 70's, and when the swell got like this we would grab our fins and boogie type boards and try to ride those rollers. Some times I would be digging sand out of cracks and orifices for days afterwards. Definitely worth it!
Plenty of people's comments have covered the music issue well. Was just thinking with those waves breaking so close to shore that all those seagulls are hanging out to clean up the fragments. It looks like riding the wave is like 5 sec then you gotta bail so you don't pound sand. Killer waves. Is there like a coastal shelf drop off just off shore making those things break so close?
Dudes surf this just to get destroyed,I have a home break called Dumpers that works on a big SW but no where near as heavy as this,you dudes are nuts!!
The part of "prepping for the Wedge" was more exhilarating then the "shore break smash" that took place time again. ,, if anything you can say you did it,,,,,
You can tell it is a hurricane swell because the lips are relatively thin, a Southern Hemi pushes more water because it is farther away making the lips much thicker and twice as powerful.
I was a Huntington/Seal Beach guy, did Wedge a few times but never seen anything like that. Lived in Kehei, Maui a couple years they have McKenna Beacn sweels that droppen you right on the beach......'60 - .70s
What was the swell direction this day? It’s angled up perfect for a sarf. I live in newp and it’s not often you see the wedge this truly rideable. I’ve definitely had a few close paralyzers out there in my day. I got into my first tube as a young lad at the wedge on a monster back door close out. I will remember that vision forever. Good times. Thanks for the vid brother dawg🤙
@@Tribblepuppy You're an idiot. It didn't come off of Baja. It came off of mainland Mex. And it was a Southeast hurricane swell. "It's better to be thought a fool then to open ones mouth and remove all doubt." Abraham Lincoln
This particular swell was a rare SE (Southeast) hurricane swell that came off of mainland Mexico. Hurricane Marie. I was fortunate enough to have the pleasure to surf it two days at two different locations that take that direction. Newport Point was absolutely epic and believe it or not.... Doheny was really good too. Doheny faces SE directly and was super huge and more manageable for older surfers with a lot of experience who wanted the pleasure of big surf without getting beaten to death like what was happening at just about every south facing beach those 3 epic days. 🤙😀
The biggest wave here didn't get over 10-foot. Where do you see 20 to 25? I surfed the Wedge 50% bigger this in 1996 on the biggest swell southern cal had in 50 years and it didn't get over 14-foot.
Back in the 60s nobody would have taken a board out at the Wedge. It was bodysurfers only, and not that many. I was the first female, then there was another in the late 60s, but it was a small group who bodysurfed there. It broke a little differently back then and sometimes you could take off on the jetty side wave and make it across the big peak. No boards and no sponge back then. It was great!
@@mamacitadelosperros533 I was there in 1951, before the crowds started coming in like your crew. Plenty of boards, Hard to miss unless you're blind. I girl we knew named Cassie and her friends bodysurfed there for years, you definitely weren't the first.
Only bodyboarding Is suitable for these type of waves. Even then your back is going to get effed up hard. The board will survive though. Even though that seems more like double to triple overhead at most. I don’t know though. Some of the OGs would know more.
