Nightmayer - Steve McClure 

luke glaister is this an onsight? He knew gear info beforehand!?

@@timschaufele719 is any lead an onsight these days with all the info/beta on offer. Let's put it this way. It's the best style that route has been climbed.

Also there was chalk marking the holds, besides Steve having knowledge of the placements. This is of course an incredible ascent, just not on-sight.

for me, onsight means free climbing a route ground up,on the first ever try, with none whatsoever knowledge of the route besides the length and the grade (i have no strong opinion on pre-placed quickdraws). I see chalk marks as serious help from previous climbers,showing how the route goes.And i think every climber pushing his onsight/flash grade can agree to that.(think of chalk marks/sole marks on slab route) The issue is that guys like steve, define the sport for the rest of us.

@@kazo0ie These comments were from ukc write ups. Does it count as an on-sight if you know you need a specialist piece of kit prior? In this case, many people take a sky hook to onsight lord of the flies so I think it would be more surprising if someone didn’t take at least one hook with them on this. Steve planned to take a hook . Also the main hook placement is pretty obvious, and the sequences of climbing are way harder to spot and he read the moves so well. Also he missed a fairly crucial (obviously not that crucial for him!!) nut 1 in the headwall. This meant that apart from a sky hook, the only gear he had between him girdle ledge was a small nut. And it stays hard to the very top. And to those quibbling about onsightness, you have to remember that, unlike in most sport climbing, the line between onsight and flash in trad is fundamentally and inescapably blurred. Without bolts to show the way, simply knowing where a route goes often requires some degree of advance knowledge, not to mention that critical gear (and sometimes even hidden holds) is often mentioned in guidebook descriptions. Far better to recognise a fantastic achievement by a great climber who almost certainly knew so little about the route in advance as to make it feel as onsight as any other, than to try to enforce arbitrary lines in the definitional sand. Them statements sum it up for me. Steve knows what he is risking in saying that he has onsighted the route. If he feels that he didn't know more than the guidebooks would tell u. Never worked or seen the moves. Then who are we to say different. Climb hard. Stay safe. 👌

Me too!

I agree, very methodical. Steve really makes it look easy.

There is a great tradition of not bolting certain rock types here. Have you looked at any footage of hard Czech climbing though? Very impressive ethics and extremely bold.

@@johnm9709 yeah that Czech stuff is hardcore!

Agreed. If the wire lifted that would be tragic.

Knees were weak, vomit on his sweater already, moms spaghetti.

That's part of what makes it so spicy. The only protection is that one spot, and the double ropes make the management dicey when doing a move like that.

Yeah I had that happen when I fell at a lead climbing comp last year.. Still got the scar on the back of leg! It burns like hell!

To me it actually looked like he wouldn't flip over if he fell because protection was far to his left and right

Yes, why there aren't more uncut ascents with voice overs is beyond me. The Ondra video on his uncut onsite footage of 'just do it' was wildly popular but still that style isn't so common. Why?

He's just adding runners to extend it to keep drag minimized. The other rope has a piece to somewhat share the load

On long routes, you don't want to have too much drag from the rope. When you go across the wall, left and right, you tend to have your rope at bad angles that create drag. When you have two ropes, you keep on rope to clip to the right and the other one to the left. Not sure if I'm clear enough but I think you'll get it.

@@Airsofter3009 Yep that explains it perfectly. Thank you!

@@Airsofter3009 a bit shorter: zig zag bad.

@@PB-sk9jn zig zag drag

8a

E8 6c

@@sueedenjin that's not the UK trad grade