I have this lens. Still working on perfecting the DC aspects. I did do alot of test shots of a mannequin with all the DC combinations and found that there really is a difference using the various F stops and was able to identify the best DC settings. I used it at Arches NP last summer coupled with a D7200 and got one of the sharpest and more color rendered pictures that I gave in my portfolio. Its so good that I am taking it to Iceland next month to capture those lone farmhouse and lighthouse images.
Nice work. Thorough coverage of details and use of DC. No shouting, laughing, etc., you're a good reviewer. I would appreciate seeing pictures of a person from various distances to see how the 135 length affects how much of a person you can capture. I have searched for this, esp. comparing the 105 DC and 135 DC but have not been able to find it. At least you do say it's long for indoors. Some pics from different distances would be great (and say what camera you use and the distance in feet for each picture). Thanks.
Thanks. It’s a fantastic lens… very sharp, fast with the f/2 aperture, built old school tough, and it awesome at how it renders the out of focus elements in the image.
I heard Nikon has discontinued this lens already,.. But fortunately, i am getting this lens second hand from some other user this weekend. (Seller is selling at SGD $1150) Can't wait to start shooting as soon as i got this. I
I used the Nikon AF 85mm f/1.4D IF more than the 105mm f/2D DC and the 135mm f/2D DC. The sharpest is the 105mm f/2D DC. The Nikon AI-s 135mn f/2 is a razor sharp lens for head shots.
Nice review, and it seems that you understand the DC function very well, but I can't see any pacifical use for blurring the foreground. That would look very odd. I've been using one, and I find that the enhanced bokeh, is a bit hard to notice. Some of those that I've shown unmarked outdoor Portraits to, were unable to tell the difference, and a couple even chose the wrong image. I agree with you Gil, taking some time (and patience) to learn the lens, is the best route to take. The reason they are flooding the used market despite the low production numbers, is due to that long learning curve!
I haven’t had the opportunity to use the 105 f/2 DC, but I’ve heard nothing by great things about the lens. The 135DC on a crop sensor is probably too long and not as practical. You could also consider the 85mm 1.4D (I have it), it is close to the same focal length and price as the 105DC. The 85mm is also a remarkable lens and it is a stop brighter. Tough choice, but you can’t go wrong either way.
Just to leg you know Gil that the latest generation f/1.4 G primes are not plastic outer casings: they are thin magnesium alloy casings. You can tell the difference: flick your 50mm f/1.4, and then flick at a 24mm f/1.4G or 85mm f/1.4G and the latter make a metallic tinging sound while the former makes a dull plasticky thud. Not THICK metal (as the D series or something like an AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8G), but, enough and it keeps the weight down of the lenses too, which is a bonus.
This is an excellent introduction to the lense but not a review. Disappointing for someone already familiar with the lens who is seeking a review with images -- particularly since the lens image quality is somewhat controversial. Suggestion: Change the headline of the video to "Nikon 135 f/2 DC Introduction"
great review ! i am thinking to get this boy and i want know is this sharp lens? i own a 70-200 vrii also and will this 135mm dc have same quality or will be sharper? i will wait your answer , i really need to know this
+Buddy Venturanza I agree. I would like to see comparisons. I own this lens. I'm finding it difficult to get the beautiful photos that have been spoken of in so many reviews. I started my own tests running up and down the defocus control vs aperture and might post here later.
+Buddy Venturanza I tried to post the file but I was unable to do it. I saw no noticeable difference in bokeh as the defocus control was changed (from N to R) from the focal point (set to 93") to a background that was 186" away or twice the distance. Above f4 no bokeh was evident. Hopefully someone see's a mistake in my ways here and sets it straight. Here is a summary of how worked thru the photos that I couldn't upload. D300 set to Manual, Every shot started by setting Defocus Control starting at N thru R, then stepping through F2, F2.8, F4, F5.6. Example: Set Defocus Control to 2.8, set to F2, manually focus on cup, adjust exposure to zero by changing speed, recheck focus, shoot, Repeat. Distances of objects, from focal plane, 69”, 85” 93” cup, 101”, 117”, and 186” cookbook
I am also thinking about this lens. (1) You wrote, "Set Defocus Control to 2.8, set to F2,..." What did you do? Your aperture and defocus control should be set to the same value. If aperture on the lens is f/2 then set defocus control to 2 R. I think your message says DC was set to 2.8. If so defocus will not work as intended.(2) I used dofmaster to calculate the depth of field for the data provided by you. At 93" distance from subject, and f2 aperture, focal length = 135 mm the DOF is just 1" (one inch). So only 1" of your subject would be in focus. I read that many people find the images from this lens to be too soft. Maybe this calculation shows why. (3) At such shallow DOF, are you sure manual focus could accurately focus? Did you focus using the focus confirmation dot? (4) Did you shoot hand held or placed the camera on a tripod? A slight camera shake could throw the subject out of focus. May I suggest that you maintain a distance of 15 to 20 feet between subject and camera and the background at 40 feet from subject, use a tripod and set the DC = aperture and try and kindly report the results? I am keenly interested in this lens. You can see photos on Flickr.com taken with this lens and look at the bokeh. On a crop sensor body, the focal length is equivalent to 202 mm.
I've been looking at this lens for a while now, currently I shoot he D7000 so it is a bit too long for my camera, but I am considering the 105 f2 DC any thoughts about hat lens?
Your camera will need a focusing motor (which all Nikon full frame cameras have, including some DX), but yes the camera will auto focus just like a G lens. You can use them on film cameras and they are great for timelapse because you can fix the aperture to avoid flickering.
