Installation of Nilight lights and wiring harness for 2014 Subaru Outback. Link for Lights www.amazon.com/dp/B07D5S1SF5?... Link for bar www.rallyinnovations.com/coll...
Michael, this was FAN-TASTIC brother. Took everything a level up as far as clean install and doing things to look as good and smart as possible. Midnight here just about done thanks to you man!!! 👏🙏😎💯
I’m an SEC registered investment rep/public arbitrator so my address is easy to find if anyone wants it. But thanks for the heads up! Good looking out!
Nice i have the same extact same car and was planning on doing the same thing. I currently added ditch pod lights on the hood. Next few project will probably be doing something similar to you and probably adding all terrain tires. I love my outback! Nice video for your first!
Nice video. Very descriptive and helpful. I used to work in car audio and the only thing I might recommend is putting one large heat shrink sleeve around the connectors at the light location. This will completely seal this connections and add a bit of strain relief. Remember this would be applied before you connect the two terminals. I’m embarrassed to say how many times I had to take things apart to put heat shrink on after I connected wires. 😃 Thamks again for the video.
Should I use waterproof solder connectors? I use them on my boat since they are waterproof. I’d have to cut off the supplied connectors, feed them n and use the heat gun to melt/shrink them down tight.
Hope you can help me bro. The switch light that turned red when you clicked it on/off. I have a three wires that go to my on/off switch and the 3rd wire lights it up. But I have to draw power from someplace else for it. I don’t need it to light up so can I bypass that step? Or do I have to find a power source for it in order for the on/off switch to work?
Hi buddy, I’m starting to customize my crosstrek and I’m planning to insert some fog lamps, ditch lights, and led bar that comes with the nudge bar and a led bar attached to the roof rack. Do you have any suggestions or guidelines for this one? Thanks pal.
That’s awesome! I’m sure you’ll have more aftermarket options from a push bar perspective than I had. Mine bolts to the frame, so just look for one that does that. For the lights, definitely get a rocker switch. Since I assume you’ll want them all to be worked independent of each other. The light bar on the roof will be a bit tricky, hiding the wires, so be mindful of that. I have another video which shows how I put in the rocker switches, that might help you. Good luck!
At 2:55 you talk about how the wiring on the light bar are naked and you need to put on those blue connectors that come in the package, right. So quick question. Can’t I just splice the wires together with a butt end connector?
@@lilmc4055 Gotcha! I ended up getting some nice butt connectors that shrink when you apply heat to them for moisture. Also wrapped them in electrical tape as well. Looks good and works great! Thx man and great vid! 🤙
Absolutely. There’s another video that shows my install of the rocker; but it’s not difficult. Just mounting of the rocker is the hardest part. Nilight sells them. The biggest thing is I didn’t wire mine to the ignition, so they’re always hot, I’m not worried about the battery dying is they’re little LED’s. Wiring it to the ignition would be much more difficult
It depends on how you want them wired up. If you’re ok with having them “hot” all the time, red to positive black to ground. If you want them hooked to the ignition, it’s a much more difficult install. As far as what wire connect first; it won’t matter as you’re only using the red wire to positive.
Thanks! You run it from the battery to the switch. As long as you’re cool with the switches being “hot” all the time, which I am, it’s an easy install!
@@luisperez-xd5mo red from battery to switch. Then you’ll run a jumper wire from the switch to the ignition. And you’ll need as many jumper wires as you have switches.
So I used a pair of needle noose pliers. IMO, don’t worry too much about damaging it, as I cut a slit in mine to feed the wires through. But it’s not necessary. Just go slow, it’ll be ok.
Hope you can help me bro. The switch light that turned red when you clicked it on/off. I have a three wires that go to my on/off switch and the 3rd wire lights it up. But I have to draw power from someplace else for it. I don’t need it to light up so can I bypass that step? Or do I have to find a power source for it in order for the on/off switch to work?
Yeah you gotta have power for the switch to work otherwise the on/off won’t function properly. The decision you have to make is do you want to hotwire it to the battery essentially having the switch on all the time, which could in theory drain your battery. I don’t worry about that cause they’re just little LEDs but if you were going to leave it for a long time it could be a problem. If you don’t want to leave that on you’ll have to wire it to the ignition, which is much more difficult
@@lilmc4055 thanks for the quick reply bro! I just tried to wire some auxiliary lights and checked out your video. I have three wires like I said, 2 go right into the switch the 3rd on is for the light. I just assumed it was for the light so you could see it in the dark, I thought the 2 you plug into the switch controlled the on/off. I thought it was broke and I was about to return it lol I’m not confident in wiring so I may just have it professionally done, what a pain. But thanks you saved me from returning it!
@@Roclemente1 don’t hire a professional. You’ve gotten this far you’re fine. Worst thing your gonna do is pop a fuse. You have one to the battery, that’s your hot. It’ll be part of the wiring harness. The other one is probably ground and then power to the switch. You got this.
so i am slightly confused why would you put the negative wire from the relay on a ground instead of the negative terminal of the battery i’m unfamiliar with this stuff and trying to learn i just bought one of these for my dirtbike and i’m trying to wire it properly
It’s a fair question, to try to make it simple, the way the way these lights are built, you don’t need to put the negative on the negative terminal. Some things in automobiles and dirt bikes need both to function, usually, aftermarket accessories don’t require both
@@lilmc4055 i’m wondering if my battery is gonna die when i hook up my led light bar since it uses 70 watts and i think my stator only puts out 20 watts DC while my motor is running but i’m not 100 percent sure it would not work so
Because it's a ground wire. It'll work if you run it to the negative,but that's extra wire you have to run, best to keep the battery as less cluttered as possible.
Ok so the neg wire doesn't necessarily need to be hooked to the negative BATT term for an LED harness- just grounded to another metal screw in the car? Right?
My relay started corroding. I had it just resting on top golf cart batteries. Now I put the negative side of harness on negative of battery. After watching this video seeing that you just grounded the negative. Could that be why
I have yet to see a video explaining how to mount the on/off switch in the car. My best idea at this point is duct tape, which will look shitty as fuck. Any ideas?
I mounted mine to a 3 gang, it’s in a subsequent video if you want to see, my suggestion, use a hole saw, drill through the bottom of the plastic underneath your steering column, and mount the switch there
@@lilmc4055 thanks man, I appreciate the information. I've actually been searching literally all day long and I found a light bar wiring harness kit that has their "mouse" switch with adhesive on the back. Do you think I could just buy that and attach the mouse switch, or would I have to rewire the whole thing? 🤔 Really a noob when it comes to this stuff so I'll gladly take all the advice I can get lol 😆
