The CVT will go next. Ivan will disassemble it on a kitchen table and rebuild it using household items and Ebay parts after Rock Auto sends him components stamped "mADe in TAnA TuVa"
I got burned on a Lincoln that ate a compressor pulley bearing, clutch turned fine. Installed the new Ford bearing/pulley/clutch, set it to .015-.025 thousandths and it worked for 1 day before the compressor locked up. Sorry, customers, but from now on, you get a remanned or new entire unit. Way too much time involved for a cross your fingers type of repair. Also, I've run across Hondas that owners put an aftermarket fart can exhaust on, and it suddenly runs like crap at idle. Turns out the PCM strategy for the EGR control looks for a certain amount of backpressure to keep the valve seated. When it's not there, the valve floats. Next time you run across an Asian car that won't run well with a broken or modified exhaust, look at the EGR pid and see if it fluctuates at idle. Have seen this 5 times now.
they're all guilty, from top down tot the bottom.... the only ones with least guilt are the blue collar assembler/line workers/production guys actually making the parts. when they try to throw red flags, they get told to STFU. works great until it doesn't and a big collapse and backlash occurs ;) the housing market was only the tip of the iceberg aimed for the titanic, try and try as they might, it's been let go into extrapolation far to long.............
We need more people like yourself Ivan. Unfortunately mechanics don't want to spend the time to research better/more cost effective options. A lot of car owners are "Slaves" to their mechanics and have to go with whatever they recommend.
Nice fix, Ivan! Plus, you're a heck of a good dude to drive all that way to help out a friend - just the kind of people I like to surround myself with. 😎
Saw you on sma. Your very sharp . Must be something in the water out east you and Eric are both very talented young men. I’m a retired mechanic it’s amazing how much the work has changed from when I started in this biz. Good luck I’ll keep watching you both. Bye.
just got done doing the very same job on an ac compressor clutch assembly , saving my client tons of cash which some shop would of charged ... 2 thumbs up for the simple repair instead of the max dollar repair
Smashing job ivan, great that it was just the clutch assembly :-D. Odd that the exhaust pressure is a touchy variable, it makes sense but some cars don't give a dam. I would prompt them to get that idle pulley replaced, bearings that rattle are a worry.
Good job Ivan! Had a old Ford F-250 with a 7.3 drive me nuts with a slow crank no-start. Stupid alternator was seized. If you got the truck running. No noises belt just slid over the pulley. I will take my humble pie served warm!
i've had snow and ice melt get into mine on old van where it freezes inside and locks it up, go to start after sitting and it cranks a bit slow and fires up to a horrible "SHRRIIEEEEKK" cuss at it, grab the torch, heat it some and good to go :)
Ivan, I just got burned on a job just exactly like this except on a 2003 Mercury Sable with 102K miles. Bearing went out, was very loose, and was making quite the racket, enough to melt the coil, although unlike yours the coil still worked. I couldn't get to it on the car as you did so I had to discharge the system. I found a clutch assembly at a nearby Advance Auto, changed the clutch assembly with stator and reinstalled with new o-rings on the hose manifold where it bolts to the compressor. Went to pull a vacuum and it wouldn't pull down less than about 20". I pulled the hose manifold assembly back off the compressor, and put my fingers, with rubber gloves on, on the hose openings and it pulled right down to 29" and held. Moral of the story...the heat from the failed bearing, enough to melt and damage the coil, also melted or damaged the compressor shaft seal. If the bearing goes out like that and creates that much heat I don't change just the clutch anymore. I was able to return the clutch and buy a compressor but it cost me extra time and that phone call to the owner with the not-so-good news.
Yeah I hear you. Have gotten burned myself too. In this case I made it very clear to the customer: I can make your car driveable for cheap. If the A/C still works that would be like a "bonus" ;)
That whole mess looked like it was ready to catch fire. You're a wonderful Friend to have, Ivan. Your Folks are incredibly humble. That unit came off very easily, I was very surprised stuff wasn't heat seized beyond removal. What a strange, flimsy air filter/box design- it didn't even look like it seals properly? Great repair.
My God Man! Brilliant Work! If I wasn't fighting Inflation/Recession Wars over here, I'd beg you to take a Road Trip to my Barrio in *East* *Hollywood.* Got a 2004 Dodge Dakota cryin' for some mechanical attention.
Yours is the only video for the Versa of this vintage I believe. Thank you. Mine has just gone and I got a loose quote of $700 for the compressor and the clutch, which the mechanis says is the way he does it, whereas I see the after market clutch goes for around $80. I'll probably do it myself. Still haven't ordered the parts though.
Success! The 7groove pulley does fit the six groove belt on my 2011 Versa 1.8liter. Sure enough the coil was cooked along with the bearing. Swapped the rear defrost fuse(15A) for the AC fuse (10A) and have cold air blowing with AC on, and warming when AC off. When the outer three lobed thing spins the compressor is engaged. Had to add one shim washer on mine to free it when allen bolt snugged. Unfortunately my $50 clutch bearing is not spinning freely, but I'm hoping it will wear in. The bearing grabs when turned by hand; after ten minutes run time it was warm but not hot. Oh, the electrical connector: It does not just pull out: the coil side of the connector mounts to a steel tab on the compressor. I destructively removed mine. Once you've got it off the metal tab you can verify your connector by pulling the wire up to the top of the engine through the hood. Proving that, I passed it back down, made the connection with coil mounted, then used steel wire to secure it to the compressor to prevent vibration chafe. Thanks tons Pine Hollow for guiding me through this job. Would not have tried it without your help.
Great call, particularly on ordering the correct kit for the car and knowing about the importance of the shims, and how to jury-rig new ones for a perfect fit. The bonus footage was also very interesting.
It is unfortunate to see neglected cars. I am sure if the owner just spent a little more money you could do some maintenance for him/her to make it safe. Again good job Ivan.
Disassembly went smooth enough. Cheap fix and car engine sounded great with the new exhaust. All circlip pliers are not the same and a variety is needed for different situations. Informative video with bonus footage.
If you put a few drops of light oil on the shims and put them in the bottom of bolt hole on the outer plate, the oil causes them to stick to themselves and to the bottom of the hole, so they won't fall out when you handle the outer clutch plate to bolt it on.
As far as I know, back pressure from the exhaust system has been necessary, for decades. Always taken into account for most any ICE, during tune-ups, to possibly detect engine performance issues. I worked on cars for standard oil gas stations back in the early 1970s, but only for a year or so. Love troubleshooting, but cars weren't doin' it for me. Moved to Home computer systems and I liked that much better.
Ivan another great fixer upper video. Love how you choose to rebuild a component rather than replace a whole part. My way of doing things. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't but I like to take the chance. In my case time is not an issue so it's the best way to go. ❤️
The Moral of the Story is Tell your Customer to fix those Bad Crazy Rattles when they first happen and don't just leave them until something seizes up or falls off (Exhaust on the Freeway).😊👍👍👍Great Job.
Ivan thanks for the idea of your cart for your tool box I am going to build me a cart for my tool box so I can roll it around whenever I take it out of the vehicle
I remember I had a Back Silencer (Muffler) blown and when I fitted the new one the Top End speed increased by about 10Mph so Blowing Exhaust certainly make a difference.
3g/s for a 1.8? Curious. Replacing a compressor clutch is one of those oddly satisfying repairs. That custom spacer was a work of art and must have taken quite a bit of work. Wow! Great repairs Ivan. Thanks!
Great video, Ivan! What I normally do is use the feeler gage, to measure the space between the clutch face and the pulley. Look up the manufacturer specs, use the feeler gage to shim it if necessary.
Nissans seem to have a "Metastasized Failure" phase similar to most Fords I've owned; seemingly random parts fail with no warning, usually right after you fixed the last issue. The trick is to stop fixing it when the least annoying part fails like the automatic headlights or a rear power window motor, and you *should* break the cycle. This case was just a bad call on the owner. If he knew the AC failed due to a leak it would have been OK to keep driving it, but not if it suddenly craps out and makes crazy noises.
Nice guy Ivan. The poor car shows much neglect if you can call it that. Those clutch coils go bad more times that folks think yet the shops are selling them new systems only because the shop wont take the risk of a come back. Seems unfair, all they have to do is document the paperwork what they did to cover themselves. I hope you made a list of suggested repairs to the car owner. I always tell folks if they have a car thats paid for, just think, you have no payments so spend a little extra on the maintenance for a sound vehicle.
Tell of the tape 39:05 .... Time after time, I've watched Ivan make these successful repairs. If someone were just to go thru his videos and add up all the savings, just to his own vehicles it would be astounding. His friends are lucky to have him as a friend. Truly my favorite you tube channel for mechanical
did one on a Toyota tundra. my boss diagnosed a bad clutch. but he did it in late fall, so customer waited until the middle of this summer. I went to install the new clutch on a Saturday, and found that the compressor shaft was seized solid. the only thing that spun was the actual pulley for the belt. so I called the Toyota dealer which is in the city about 200km away. only place I could get an a/c compressor. come to find out there compressors don't come with the clutch or the pulley or shims. so the clutch/pulley kit I had was $250 and the new compressor w/o clutch/pulley was $800. put it together with original shims and snap rings, worked fine.
Good ol' E Bay. Our friend sold us a car that had been quoted a transmission job for $3,000. We did some research and found that the car needed a lock-up solenoid for the trans and ordered a part for $75 off of E Bay. Has been running good for 5 years now.
out of all the blown up cars over the years, the temp gauge is useless on many of them due to sensor location. A prime example "ford taurus 3.0 v6, coolant temp sensors are both in a double T in heater hose line by thermostat. the issue with that? blown hose or no water in system from the start and the gauge never reads hot or by time it does do, the person has already ran it until total meltdown. think, spark plug boots burnt off spark plug porcelain blistered white.
great work you get right down to the nitty gritty when it comes doing your work you dont miss a thing and you no your stuff . I love watching your videos i have learned a lot from you thank you very much and keep up the good work.
Nice work Buddy! Ipdm not a serviceable item other than fuses. Ivan you pour the slab for your new shop and we'll have a meet up one weekend and finish it !!!!!
A lot of newer vehicles are VERY sensitive to back pressure with the exhaust. Many hot rodders have had to reflash their computers after installing to a freer flowing exhaust system. Moe
The back pressure pulses in the exhaust are used to help scavenge the exhaust gas from the cylinders. The effect is especially important on smaller engines or highly tuned engines. Without the negative pressure pulses in the exhaust to clean out the cylinders the intake ends up with a less than optimal mixture. Before chips in computers were available to be remapped a lot of work went into designing header lengths and exhaust pipe diameters. Getting just the right suck at the exhaust ports at the right time was like tuning a musical instrument.
Great vidio Ivan. how many miles on the belt? How you work with a creeper is amazing. We need to get you an electric hoist and a story and 1/2 shop. The noises are from the rust belt. What band of gloves do you wear?
With older cars even a tiny hole in the exhaust could cause engine trouble. One of my 70s Audis was a bit unwilling to shift in the lower gears. I fixed the hole and it shifted smoothly again. Last year I had similar trouble with my 97 Corsa. Hard to shift into 1st gear and stalling after cold start. Fixing a hole in the exhaust pipe solved it for a while but later it turned out the underlying problem was a dirty idle control valve.
Every time you do a video you make it look so easy. Great video. I do find it strange when people get bent out of shape or focus on no shirt....I guess they like it and that puts questions in their minds that make them feel uncomfortable when a person with no shirt on is normal and its just a body. Please keep up the good work.
I think you have a few guys that are looking at you in a different way then just a guy working on a car. A name as ( AlwaysChristian) ??? HMM What is on his mind is my question. I am truly sorry that all the hard work that you do for people that this is what's on his mind. Just saying.
Good one. I need to do mine. I get a horrible noise when the a.c. engages when the engine is hot which I think is the clutch. The noise will stop after a while and the a.c. works perfectly. This has been happening for the last 12 years but is getting worse now.
Great vid have the same car same year and after adding freon still blows warm. I'm hoping the fuse is the ticket. If not ill try and jump the compressor clutch with a wire and add more freon.
A whole different thing of course, but still, a story of exhaust back pressure. It was 1960. I was fifteen years old. My parents were away. I had just removed the thirty pound 30" chrome muffler from my Allstate 125. I so wanted it to be bigger and louder and faster. I got the first two, but the bike-- it wouldn't fall out of a tree as we used to say. Three WFO trips around the neighborhood and it bacame painfully obvious: the loudness was not correlated to power. An adult neighbor came storming across my yard. He had blood in his eye. He just happened to own a rent-all store and knew everything about two strokes (and everything else). He gave me a lecture about the folly of looking for love (and power) in all the wrong places. I was disappointed to learn that mufflers weren't installed merely to make your neighbors happy and hold back the horses. But it was true. Expansion chambers were years away for me. Now that's where the power is in the world of ring-a-dings! www.searsallstateriders.com/assets/images/models/810.94151-photo1.jpg
When I first saw the A/C clutch, I thought, "oh no." YOU got lucky! I've never seen one come off that easily! I don't know about Nissan, but older Ford, GM, and Dodge had gap specs for the A/C clutches. Most I've done were close to 1/8 inch. Good Job, Good Video. Again I don't know about Nissan but, older E.G.R. system's relied on some back pressure to function properly. Just saying. Maybe that helps stabilize the exhaust pulses? HMMMMMM.
Have a 2010 Versa....the dipsticks are very finicky about position. One way it slides right in but turn it anywhere (but 180 degrees) and you will bend the shaft!
Brings back nightmares of changing the AC clutch on my 2011 Sentra. Like a fight to the death at. every. step. Tensioner didn't like my wrench so it slipped off, had to find a 6 point. Bolt didn't want to come off the clutch, had to use the impact. Clip didn't want to come off the pulley, had to pry at it with a screwdriver while holding it open with the pliers, same fight with the clip for the coil. Then I had to put it all back together; but at least my Amazon kit came with extra shims and new hardware. Apparently in Nissan's infinite wisdom, they thought it was a good idea to use plain steel flanges with their stainless exhausts. When mine went, I just hacked out the flange and replaced it with a coupling and 2 clamps.
A couple of years ago, had intermittent slipping AC clutch on my 1998 Nissan Frontier; I was able to remove drive plate and remove a shim to fix it, didn't even need to remove the AC drive belt to do this !!!
Basically you have to take off the intake manifold that wraps around the engine (all plastic). This is a good nissan engine as long as it has a good quality synthetic oil. I have a cube so I follow any fixes to the 2004-2012 Nissan Versa ;)
That bend in front of the muffler is notorious for collecting exhaust moisture and rusting out. A 'flange delete' is a common fix; the shop just cuts out the flange and welds in a piece of pipe...good for a few years until it rusts out too. I
Great video and very clear. Boy, that Nissan is neglected, exhaust shields rattling: I was gonna say do the guy a favor and clean and reinstall those battery terminals, but there's so much on that car to do where would you start and where would you quit?
Another great "fix" instead of replacing everything. Those clutch kits should come with shims. Does that Nissan use EGR? They can be very sensitive to exhaust pressure. I keep thinking about the old Frigidaire compressors where the front seal ran on the clutch so the system would vent when the clutch was disassembled.
Nice job Ivan! I was thinking his air con was the least of his problems lol maybe some advice on preventative maintenance? Lol I can't believe he took a car in that condition on a roadtrip.
"How to work on a car with one hand" I gave up working on site, it's always way more trouble than it's worth. Generally if a mechanic will come to you, you wouldn't want them to touch the vehicle. Present company excepted, as you seem to care about a good repair, most don't and they are often going to charge more than it's worth. The real deal is when a mechanic is a good one, he won't bother leaving the shop, he has work already, either you drag it in, or he can't help you. Tow trucks exist, can't afford one, I guarantee you can't afford me.
looks like classic clutch failure, what I found is the rubber suspension on the clutch disc to plate fails, letting it drag/slip and eat the metal up on both side as well as run hot, which helps cook the coil and contaminate the bearings, which is surely well worn and not sealing tight anymore. I guess the old style of clutch disc with spring steel arms and rivets lasted too long or something >_>
Great vids Ivan, Lurve your channel, but would be nice to hear the customer reviews in your vids 'if possible', would make an ahhhhh,their satisfied moment. maybe? anyway awesome stuff buddy xx
Ruh Roh, I just got this problem on a 2005 Nissan Altima 😐 went around 11 miles to drop off my son for an event and pulled into the parking lot Belt is smoking but drivable; popped the hood to see a bit of smoke around the compressor area... Not totally seized yet Spare belt in trunk & I'm going to just get the whole compressor assembly due to age
Whew, 12 miles to home... No traffic and driving like a grandma, but definitely seized up since the belt burning smell was prevalent when I parked it Off to eBay and comparison shopping with AutoZone and Amazon, maybe Rock Auto as well😐
Another thing on these, It seems the pcm "forgets" it's target idlespeed if you have a weak battery. Fix is to replace battery and relearn idlespeed. 😊
