Hi Niko! We interacted in the Leaf Facebook group when my 2022 second gen had a similar issue. I appreciated all your help. Thanks for putting this out here to help others. My car was towed to Nissan and had a cell replaced entirely. Never had another issue but after thirteen months I sold in July. Still have my 30kwh Kia Soul EV which I love to bits. My husband and I have driven it 9k miles in the last three months thanks to his new job and long commute. I may check out a first gen Leaf again!
Glad to help. You can reach out to me anytime. I just purchased my BMW i3 with Range Extender, so far I really like it. Did a 200 mile round trip yesterday and didn't have any issues. 99% of the time I won't need the range extender but it sure was nice not needing to stop and charge. The Leaf was well made, they just didn't invest in making the battery more robust. They should have added thermal management when they switched to the 2nd Gen Leafs.
Bought 2022 Leaf SV in May. So far no troubles except buyer regret that I didn't hold out for the Plus. I plan to upgrade the battery to 62Kw next year, maybe sooner. Range is my #1 complaint. Other than that I'm happy. Good luck with your issue, best guess is that the DC/DC converter is the core problem. 12 volt battery going to under 10-11 volts indicates no charging taking place. In car with alternator while car is running should measure over 13 VDC at terminals so battery is charged by higher impressed voltage (fed from alternator)
You have confirmed a worst case scenario of owning one of these, currently I am considering a 2017 Leaf at the moment but hesitant now. When I saw your later year model (including someone in the comment section with same year model going though something similar) I was perplexed, wouldn't older models be more susceptible to this happening than the newer ones? So this happened out of the blue? To imply, there was no fore-warning or fore-notion of stoppage? Not even a stutter or warning light, anything at all? Imagine if you were in a highly trafficked lane with cars behind you (you were very lucky to be on a road that was virtually empty!) Do you think this would've been hazardous or potentially dangerous situation? Like a rear ending if it was any other situation with more traffic and vehicles on the road or even on the highway? Do you suggest to test the 12 volt battery often? To keep a charger for it and even buy a brand new one when buying used? IS this something to take seriously? To the point of passing on the Leaf and waiting to afford another EV brand altogether?
That's an interesting point you make, do other EVs respond the same when the 12V battery dies? I will have to research this and find out. My car wasn't completely dead, I was in reduced power mode. I could still drive upto 25 MPH. This is still an issue if it happens when trying to enter the expressway. With proper maintenance to your 12v battery I don't see this as an issue. Typical 12V batteries should last 5 years, I got 2. I have to admit that I didn't do any maintenance to the battery. At a minimum you should fill with distilled water annually and possibly trickle charge every couple months. It's a lesson learned for me with these cars for sure. Will this steer me clear of the Leaf, probably not. They are great cars that fit a specific purpose and they work well for my family.
@@NoGasNiko Just got a 2017/40kw with only 12000kms on it, and have bought a replacement AGM battery, but not fitted yet (battery tester said old one is down to 300cca). But now wondering if changing from a wet cell type, to an AGM will cause any kind of issues?. Thinking also of returning it and exchanging for a larger deep cycle one, which will fit tray, but need a wider top holding bracket(will make one), and wondering if the larger rating could also bring up issues.
I have had dead battery more than 8 or so for 2020 sv plus. Each a jum starts solved starting car. Once Nissan replaced a battery. Most time it happened that very heavy load to the battery in winter times.
My car just starting doing this tonight I took the 12 volt battery out and had it tested it reads good but the volts are 12.2 could this be the reason ?
looking forward to seeing the second portion I have a few leaves as well. Last time this happened I replaced the 12 V battery in the car ran fine until my daughter totaled it out a few years later this one I put a new 12 V battery in it actually said the battery itself was dead I just put a brand new battery inand it still won’t run at all but it shows my 12 V battery on my dash is fully charged. I will also still test it but I’m looking forward to seeing what your part two video looks like this is a 2018 leaf.
I brought my 2013 leaf from Nissan with 24k miles, had her 4 years and in that time, onboard charger failed Year 2, 3k pounds (warranty) intermittent fault last 18 months with T/M error. replaced 12V but error still persists. Finally Nissan found the fault and Regulator/Motor advised to replace both at 9.7k costs GBP. the car is 9 years old full Nissan service history and made 48k miles!. I have a claim with our ombudsman going through
Sorry to hear about your troubles with your 2013 Leaf. I also have a 2013 Leaf S with the 24 kWh battery. I bought it used with 46k miles. Currently have 86k miles and haven't had any issues. Good luck with your claim.
There's not a lot and the ones you can find are way over priced unfortunately. In 2019 I bought my 2013 S with 11 capacity bars for $6k It still has 10 bars and u could probably sell it for $10k today. I liked it better when gas was $2/gal, EVs were more affordable.......
@@NoGasNiko yup I will probably end up holding out so I don't over pay at the moment. If gas comes down and the used car market corrects itself.there will be deals in the future
Probably best. I'm not sure how the new tax credit works for used EVs. I need to research it a bit more. I'm afraid if the credit goes to the dealer the prices will go up even more.
You need turn on your Nissan and check the voltage on small battery, it must be 12,5-14 volt if not it's like you said converter (alternator ) or somewhere wires. Goodluck.
I have a 2020 Leaf SV Plus and I'll be darned if I can find the ODB2. The web says it is on the right side of the steering wheel but there is only the airbag under there. Suggestions, comments?
Had this issue on two of my Leafs at a few years apart. Turned out to be the 12v battery. Duh. So, why do EV's need a 12 v battery? Can't there be a circuit off the main battery? The dealer has to reset the system and not any battery will work.
@@NoGasNiko all the dashboard and controls electronics is designed using 12V dc. Because all the chipset is designed for legacy automotive. Most EVs high voltage system is a 400v system (Power Electronics), stepping that down to 12v and 5vdc to run the controls electronics is no fun. They can surely use a better small battery. A Li-ion will be great. It will last hack a lot longer and it will be a lot lighter and smaller.
Bought a new 2022 Leaf and in a month I had a "check battery" warning pop in the dash board. Took it to Nissan dealership and the tech told me everything was fine and recommended to charge the car in a level 1 or level 2 charging station since I told them that it happened after using a level 3 charger and was charged $160 for the check. Followed the recommendation but the warning keeps popping up. I really hate it when you need the car in a hurry. What I noticed is the warning appears almost every time after I charge the battery. My simple fix to this is reboot the battery, that is, remove or loosen the ground battery cable with a wrench, you will hear a distinctive disconnection sound then reconnect the ground cable. Start the car and most of the time, the problem goes away. The worst situation I was into was on a 2 a.m. rainy morning when I had to do the routine rebooting. Really pissed off. I think the tech at Nissan that I went to know the problem but didn't gave me the straight solution to the problem.
Problem with getting a "NEW" Leaf is you don't know how long that car sat without charging the 12V battery. I would put that on a trickle charger for the next couple of nights and make note of the voltage. It's possible you got a bad 12V battery with the car. Best of luck.
Happend to me 3 times 2019 62kw when it's happened I just turn off the car and on then the error despair. Now it has been about 3 months last time happened.
This didn't go away for me. Was definitely a bad 12v. I probably could have done a warranty claim but the dealership was 30 miles away. It was easier to just buy a new one.
I have exactly the same problem for 2 days. especially, I'm on vacation. I can only charge at public terminals. whereas at home I could have left the car plugged in all night. I have an appointment at Nissan in 4 days. I don't know if they will be able to fix the car. I have to come back from vacation in 8 days.
You could go buy a 12v and a 10 mm wrench and change out the battery. Some Auto Parts stores will install the battery for free. Might save you some troubles.
Well how long does a cellphone battery last? only so many charges, it will be the same with all EVs. then huge cost to replace. compared to a good ole gas engine. Have a great day !
Thanks for watching. You can'tcompare EV batteries to cell phone batteries, they are not even close. We have a 2013 with 90k miles and a battery that is holding with little signs of degradation from year to year. In Germany the first Tesla has reached 1 million miles and is all original. My goal is to put 400k miles on my 2020 before Michigan rust ends its life. I have no problem with gas I just prefer electric. I bought this car because iof the known issues with the 30kWh battery. It was so common that Nissan stopped producing it. Have a Happy Thanksgiving.
How hilarious. I’ve literally had to junk dozens of “good ole gas engine” vehicles because the engines all keep crapping out. Granted; one of those was my mom’s van, which she’d let go 20k miles between oil changes. But all the rest were oil changes every 3500 miles with full synthetic and tire rotations every 10k miles. I literally babied every single car I got, even to the point of a fully loaded semi being twice as fast off the line, and it made exactly no difference. After the 3rd car, I made sure to have at least 4 different mechanics look over each one before buying. After the 5th replacement vehicle, I was getting seriously pissed. By the time I’d bought my 11th gas vehicle, I’d spent enough on getting replacement/“new” cars to buy absolutely any non-Tesla EV in existence, brand-new, at sticker price, for cash, and still had enough to buy a 240v charger. So far, my nissan leaf has outlasted the longest-lived gas vehicle I’ve ever owned. Plus that, it’s way more efficient; in a gas engine, fully warmed up, in the best of best case scenarios, only 40% of the gasoline’s energy makes it past the flywheel (assuming you’re driving a Prius, which uses an Atkinson cycle engine; all other engine designs are in the 35% range). So out of every $100 of gas you’re putting into that GMC Yukon, $65 is pure waste; as a combination of unburned fuel (especially while the engine is cold) and friction between the internal parts of the engine. Point blank, I couldn’t care less what you waste your money on; just don’t spew blatant and thoroughly-debunked lies.
I had similar experiences with gas cars. Besides the battery issue in the 2017 I've had no issues with any of my Leafs. I have 3 of them, 2013, 2017 and 2020 plus.
I'm 6 months in on leasing my 2022 Nissan Leaf and all was going well until today when THIS EXACT THING HAPPENED!! Looking for a quick resolution but it looks like a trip to the dealer. Looking for your Part 2 video on your resolution.
I filmed my part 2 snd was going to edit this weekend and post. Spoiler, it was the 12v battery.. The new battery was a little weak and caused the same error codes. I trickle charged it, cleared the codes with LeafSpy and its been good ever since.
I have a video on it. You're going to pay 10x the cost to have them diagnose the problem. I still took mine in because I wanted that piece of mind and I wasn't 100% sure I solved the problem.
@@NoGasNiko FYI--It was the PDM --Power Delivery Module. The car only has 3200 miles on it and only 6 months old so the replacement part was covered under warranty.
I lost hope with mine. This is already the 4th time that I took it to the dealer for the same issue! They are trying to see about it with the manufacturer but I feel I am a guinea pig and experiment on my car!
@@NoGasNiko well this is my second Nissan Leaf. I had an episode on my 2013, it was about 4yrs into the original battery and it won’t start the car on Sunday after church. It was the small battery and I check everywhere for exact replacement and dealer is cheapest. This evening my 2018 SV said no power. But dashboard lights up brightly unlike the 2013. I just check the small Battery and it is at 10.2V. I pulled the +ve cable out and not charging the battery. I sure don’t want the charge to flow backwards back to the Dc/dc converter. Not sure if it has protection circuit. By the way I sold my 2013 leaf had over 97,000 miles on it with 12 battery segment for 5k. My maintenance cost is 2 sets of tires, a battery and 2 check up for battery Health. Total maintenance out of pocket without tires is $302. I wish we can change to the 62kwhr battery. Currently my 2018 is a 40kwhr.
You can add a charger to the 12V with it still connected, I've done it on all 3 of our Leafs. 10.2V is pretty dead, not sure if that will hold a charge, good luck. The 62 kWh is nice, can do longer road trips before worrying about heating the battery with fast charges.
