Thanks James and Kate for this service on our 'eco cars' leaf , this leaf will be at Fully Charged at Farnborough from 29th Spril till 1st May 2022 , and will be on our stand and for sale , a great auction buy , and you've just watched it being serviced , ready to go ! 👍👏👏
This is possibly the best service I have seen in my 9 year automotive carrier. The only thing i would say is to check the suspention components with ball joints in both the loaded and unloaded positions as they can hide wear when at diffent positions ..
James came and serviced my 2017 30kWh Leaf. Absolute thorough job done you just can't beat the professional service, I highly recommend the mobile service.
@@Jamesandkate I don't suppose you ever come up to Fife, Scotland? We have a 2015 Leaf and it would be great to have it serviced properly like you have done in the video. Nissan only seem to top up the screen wash, change the brake fluid and give you a useless battery report.
JEEZ, Kate... You just make this look SO easy...! I wish I had the skill and confidence to do, in particular, the brake pads tasks you so 'casually' get on with... all power to you. 😉
That’s why we use Cleevely EV for our cars. However we could go down the Nissan dealer version, which is as follows: 1. Plug in leaf spy Nissan version, print out the battery check. 2. Top Up washer fluid. 3. Wash the car with a bucket someone pissed into (if you don’t know the reference, watch EVM). 4. Done. 5. £199 please 👍🏻 Oh there’s also a £299 version which is the same but involves checking the brake fluid, whilst claiming it’s been drained and replaced. And erm, sadly I experienced this with them. Once.
Thank you 👍 this is Awesome. I now have over 204,000+ USA miles on my 2017 Nissan Leaf SL after 5 years 2 months and 3 days later. " Nissan Simply" 😱 Amazing 😂
I had 131,000 + USA miles on my 2015 Leaf S after 6 years and 11 months. The dealership indicated 11 of 12 health bars, and I found out later via EV Works @ Bainbridge Island, WA that the SOC was 84%. 24 kWH pack. They considered this above average health.
Need to check that transmission fluid level ("gear oil" at the 5:24 point), and check for leaks around the casing seams. It's actually easy to change every 80,000 miles or so too.
Amazing video .. as always.. would love to see a similar service down on a pre-2016, i.e. 2012-2015 Tesla Model S. At the risk of sounding chauvinistic, Kate is, by far, the best female automotive expert on the Internet.
That was a very interesting video, thank you for sharing it. May I also say well done for using a torque wrench to finish tightening the wheels, it's a real bug bear of mine when garages don't do it properly and use a rattle gun instead.
Please can you thank Paul for the service on my leaf. It runs better and brakes better than before. The dreaded clicking noise has disappeared also! Nice to see actual grease on the battery and all the hinges. See you next year.
😄 Wow Kate did you have a stunt stand in. Your hands seem to fly round the vehicle. great video too. jonathan will be pleased you did a great job and favour.😉
"Old and slightly cracked" 3mm tyres. I know what I'll be using to get some money off......... If I could afford it, that is! Alloy is fine hopefully where the tyre valve is? But a great video to show what to look for in the only usable EV (non battery lease) that many of us will be able to afford!
Excellent! I'm pretty sure you wouldn't get this level of care from a Nissan service! Out of interest do you have a link to the strut covers that you use for the Leaf..?
Excellent Job, Kate, my only comment is, why you did not mention in the thumnail the exact model year and trim of the Nissan Leaf in this video ? I'm currently in the decision process myself in shopping and choosing between a 2019 Nissan Leaf Plus SV or SL trim with 215 miles of estimated range or a 2020 Hyundai IONIQ all electric with estimated 170 miles of range:
My 2018 40Kw leaf has just passed the 100,000 mile mark with no loss of battery.The only problem was a failed 12v battery changed myself, 1 set of brake pads, seized foot brake cable and drivers door power window switch. 2 dealer services when under warranty. Haven’t bothered taking it to a garage for service as it’s a total ripoff due to very little moving parts and only one filter (cabin) which can be replaced easily.
A tip is to fully remove the caliper as the upper bolt has maybe never been off. I just did a service on my grandpas leaf with 47k km. Looking like new underneath, but the top bolt on the caliper was stuck on the rear left of the car. Got it unstuck and the caliper now moves freely!
Another tip. If you remove the rim, spray all rods, shock absorber spring, brake lines, etc. with WD40, against rust. Everything is then protected and looks like new. Do 👍
Very thorough attention although a "major" service should always include a brake fluid flush even if the fluid measured "only" 1% moisture content. It looked quite yellow, not a good sign. Also the gearbox drain plug has a magnet that should be cleared as well if either are done.
Good video! Good illustration of how to lubricate brakes. Just one comment: I have been warned against lubricating the struts holding luggage lid, but you recommend this?
Was this a service as per factory schedule or service as per lessons learned from years of experience? I only ask as the brakes work was way in excess of what I'd expected.
Nissan : Leaf : Service : Major. Nissan probably define checks needed - but where do they define them. And then, how are they rectified? Kate seems to be pretty savvy - but I'm not too sure about the orange marigolds (P.P.E.) ! Mike
Is the reduction gear oil fill plug easily accessible in my 2022 Leaf? Unlike the older Leaf model that is shown in this video, I couldn't find one under the hood of my car.
When younchecking the tyre thread depth looks like the inner edge of the tyre is heavily worn so I would replace that tyre befor shows cords and carry out wheel alignment
Reduction gear oil check: I am interested that you can access the fill plug from above. A 10 mm allen hex is used but the plug access is horizontal, Can it be reached with a normal socket wrench? Also, what is the size of the crush seal?
Ironically these are all the faults I need to fix with my 20yo ICE :) Shocks, rear brakes, cw-boots etc. In addition to loads of corrosion. And the worst part, I don't really have alternatives. "U" in "SUV" stands for anything but "Utility" these days. 22" alloys with barely any rubber on them and 0-60 times worthy of M5 from some yesteryear. Are you bloody kidding me? At the moment I can only hope that LDV T60 EV they tested in New Zealand would also be sold in Europe. But even then - it is €40k+. Not sure I'm ready to pay that much for a vehicle I intend to use in it's utilitarian capacity extensively. I'm hopefully be able to afford second-hand Kona in a year or two. But I will still need something utilitarian to do dirty work. And there is nothing coming. Unless Ford Ranger (even though I would prefer boot that is part of a cabin) suddenly gets a drivetrain from F150, than I will by it two years later, hands down.
Not correct with the Leaf, sticking to the recommended 36psi lead to distinct under inflation tyre wear, set to 40 all good, the latest set are coming up for replacement before next winter, totally even wear across all of them.
@@edwyncorteen1527 if that's the case then fair enough however they never mentioned that the tyre wear was the reason for running pressures high, the reason given was better millage.
2:48 - I didn't know that handle orientation was upside-down. Learn something new etc... Though having seen it both ways on different vehicles, I think I actually would rather close hatches and lids with my hand cupped towards me (which is how my mother's car has it (different model) - mine is the other way round). It feels more natural, and my hand pulls out of the handle sort of automatically as part of the arm motion. I suppose it's personal preference. Maybe I'll turn the one on my LEAF around.
It's always welcome to see other Leaf owners sharing their "how-to" info, based on real-world experience. However, the presenter lost me when, early in the video, she used a hot-melt glue gun to do body repair. Can't speak for their area, but even here in New England cars can get SUPER hot sitting in the sun, certainly hot enough to soften or at least break down the glue. Short answer -- DON'T DO THIS!!! She also used a spray lubricant on the charging port door, something I would not do. There's too much risk of getting grease inside the connector, thus putting at risk the electrical contacts. Even if the oil doesn't itself hurt the connection, it will attract and hold dirt and grime which will. Again, avoid.
We've been hot glueing these for years, we've never had an issue with heat. Also, she didn't spray the charge port, but the door hinges and hinges of the charge flap.
Two questions: what lubricant did you use for the hinges etc at the beginning please? I can't remember if WD40 is a no-no for those parts. The other one is: what are DTC's on your diagnostic machine please? Lovely thorough service, can't wait for the day to come when I have a used ev for you to look after! Thanks for videoing it for us Kate. 👍
DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code - issues (usually indicated by the check engine light) stored in the car's computer - the code narrows/details the system/location of the issue.
Today my Nissan Leaf has to go to Nissan heaven 2013 MK1 Purchased from Nissan Dealership, full service history and all repairs completed at Nissan and today at only 48k, yes 48k! miles the error code of inverter and motor was found with an estimated repair bill of £9800 pounds. Nissans response was car is over 8 years old so we cant help.
As I don't own an electric car just curious why antifreeze coolant what is this for apart from screen wash what else is needed to cool, thanks in advance
Most EVs have two or more loops of coolant - one for HVAC system, one for motor/inverter and another for the battery (which the Leaf doesn't use - it is air cooled)
DTC = Diagnostic Trouble Code - issues (usually indicated by the check engine light) stored in the car's computer - the code narrows/details the system/location of the issue.
Quite embarassed being male at this moment. I wouldn't have the stamina nor patience to do this myself. Some of it, yes, but digging into those nether regions of the cavity and lifting it up to peak at the struts, I'd leave to a certified EV mechanic. Kudos none the less !! Impressive.
You really should not be touching around high voltage components unless you’re sure there is no high voltage flowing and/or your service disconnect is out and you let the capacitor drain.
Sorry to sound like an armchair warrior etc. but 8:07 and 8:47 really worried me - using power tools with long hair not tied back is really dangerous. I don’t think it would look good for Cleveley if you had the angle grinder pulled into your face if your hair got caught in the disk. Otherwise excellent video!