Nissan Rear Differential Electronic Coupler a PSA 

Awesome follow up video! That’s why I enjoy watching your videos!

Bingo brother. Two years after, and you nailed my issue with my new car I just bought...used that is. Thanks!

I enjoy watching !

Kids, if you're looking for a RU-vid mechanic to follow, he's the one. This guy knows his shit.

This video makes me wonder how does this work. I found out its a viscous electromagnetic clutch. and I will see more videos and more about it. Thanks Matt.

You're a genius sure tell you were educated in Saint Louis Keep up the great videos

I had this same problem back in March 2021, with a used 2009 nissan murano SL. When i turn corners there was a hard judder like the brakes were grabbing ,a loud clunking. (at one point sounded like metal grinding) It was replaced with a junkyard differential and works fine now. Also with my Nissan the transfer case was bad, missing or broken tooth in the ring gear. The dealer at the sales lot told me he just replaced the transfer case and severn days after purchasing the suv the transfer case went out again. The dealer offered to pay and replace it, and that was done but it was then when i test drove the suv i still felt the judder in the rear when making turns left or right. The mechanic was in the back seat an felt it. He replaced the rear def from the junk yard $300 parts an labor. Its been running fine sense ,and i drive it daily. The mechanic told me the most common cause was from improper towing not on a flatbed truck. but with the rear wheels on the ground. He mentioned that only a short distance of a block could do the damage to the differential .

Great analysis

Just watched the new Trans Am - broken valve spring video on the pay channel. You'd think this would be a more common problem, but I've never seen it before. It may be a pain but it could have been so much worse. Will you be replacing the other springs as a safety precaution? Great little series, this - it's amazing how those new shop lights improve the picture quality; everything is so sharp now. Thanks for the insight.

Hey, dude, you got all the fancy equipment, man - no wonder you can diagnose stuff.

Well explained Matt.

Matt, brother thanks for interesting information for Nissan/Infinity.

I joined at a good time, this looks interesting.

Did you come back to RU-vid? Freaking awesome.

Thanks for this follow up Matt, to me, this would be a heads up to get rid of the crappy vehicle, I do not like dead-end diagnostics like this final drive and not being able to get any direction from the manufacture's docs seals that for me

If it's a big fat coil, the inductance will be enough to turn a PWM voltage signal into a steady current. Thus, the measuring of the current.

Hello everybody, Question if some one can answer will be very appreciated: I took the main shaft and the rear axles out on my 2015 Murano, I did put the outer end in without the axle-shaft : "safety first". Have a heavy oil leak in the differential. My millage improve from 18.5 to 22.5 doing the same driving so this thing is going to remain like this. Now I want to take the differential out. The questions are. The air hoses connected are for vacuum or cooing or what, should I just block them or join them together..? And the connector for the clutch/selenoid that engages the all wheel drive should I just disconnected is it monitor by the system? I want to avoid a check engine light of course. Thank you for your time to answer.

If I turn pulley, from main gearbox, should inside shaft react or not? Please, can you help me. Thank you

I worked at Napa a long time ago and we had 3 alternators bad outta the box. After that we started testing all alternators before selling them.

i found the correct timing spot on my vw beetle 2002 crankshaft but still working on it like fixing the ignition switch was bad and a few other things

Mat did you try turning the input or output shafts then apply the current & see if there was resistance to your force indicating there was actuation ? We have a similar sort of system on the current Mercedes rear diff but it is a clutch pack operated by a small electric motor but the same issue with vague technical data.

I understand the desire to know "how" it works.. but you could still test to see "if" it works lol... spin the input shaft and look through the axle holes to see if the ring gear turns (I'd imagine it shouldn't.) Then apply 12v to the coil/clutch/magic piece and see if it now connects the input shaft to the pinion/ring gear.

have a 2015 pathfinder the coupler was replaced in the fall of 2020 at 104000km, Nissan covered it. Now 30,000km later the same symptoms are happening, Nissan says too bad parts have 1 year warranty only. I asked is it common for parts to fail after 30,000km, crickets..

Man these newer cars break down so much easier than older vehicles😯i know older vehicles that never had a differential service and still haven't broke down yet🤦‍♂️

It’s most likely the O2 sensor. I read it on a tech forum! lol Love your videos!!!!

Hey thanks for the video, I just replaced a similar differential on my 2015 qx60 and I’m curious to know if you were ever able to find out what exactly failed on the electric coupler or if it is serviceable. I still have the bad differential and I separated the couple to open it but couldn’t find a way.

What happened to the rubber band on the DVOM when doing current checks?

I think the Buick Rendezvous & Pontiac Aztec had a similar system at the back wheels. This was an automatic AWD system but I don't know how the differentials used the computer commands to regulate power to the rear wheels.

Hey, Matt, I came across something new to me yesterday, and I think it may possibly be an idea for the pay channel. I was working on a newer vehicle that used an AGM technology battery. It's my understanding that these batteries are used in high-demand, stop-start cars, but this vehicle was neither of these - so why? I used to have a 2011 Ford that was stop-start, and that used an EFB (enhanced flooded battery). I just thought a little insight into these new technology batteries would be really useful - particularly as I believe that replacement AGM batteries need to be programmed into the vehicle. Any thoughts?

On my nissan altima with cvt trans and rear diff. The electronic rear coupler was going bad and made a high pitch whinning sound. Kind of like a wheel bearing. My dealership replaced it under warranty but out of warranty would have been close to 2k fix.

Do these need to be initialized or learned with a scan tool after replacement?

my awd rogue was towed without using a dolly some years ago and it never drove the same again, it's been getting worse and worse, my mechanic removed the drive shaft to alleviate the stress on the diff but it's gotten worse and worse to the point where the car now sounds and feels like it might break down at any moment. My mechanic says the diff needs replaced and to put a sticker on the car stating that it's an AWD and should never be towed with the tires rolling. Any thoughts? I can get the diff for 280 from a local junkyard, what should i do?

Hi,the only video where somebody try to fix it or at least find the problem. Thank you. I have a question did you manage to fix it?

This happened to me as well coupler failed. Felt like my rear passenger tire was locking up. This is with a 2018 Infiniti QX30 AWD with only 30,000 kms. Covered under warranty , cost over $7000.00

Hi if I take the drive shaft out and drive the car without drive shaft will that be harmful for the car. I know the all wheel drive will not work but iam not worried about all wheel drive? Please help

I just came across this video. My 2016 Chevy Trax is having this same issue. But I get a popping noise too

Hello good day. A fan from Nigeria, and sorry am typing this here but it base on fuel trims. Here is my question and hope you can help. I don't have a code yet but from my fuel trim, or LFTS bank 2 I have -17, mean am running rich. And I have this funny herd start during warm startup and a little misfire don't really know what my problem is. The funny part is no body here around me seem to know what is going on

Is it easier to replace the coupler or just replace the whole rear end ?

I wonder if you have to test it live(key on or car running) cause it probably has to detect slippage for the ecu to send voltage or signal to activate it. Probably the more slippage, the more resistance to apply locking force?

I have this exact issue with my 2016 QX60. I cant afford to replace it righ now either. I'm not able to do this myself. Other than the dealer, what type of shop should I take it to have it unplugged? Will the technician be liable for anything?

What if you apply voltage and spin the input shift? Just curious if it turns the differential with voltage applied.

If I disconnect the coupler electronic connection is that OK to drive like that?

There is a service bulletin for these, but there's not much info in it. Basically if it's acting like a spool rear end during tight parking lot maneuvers, unplug electromagnetic coupler and if it goes away, you've got a hell of a direction.

"Matter of fact, hell." LMFAO Sometimes ya just gotta roll with it like that. I was wondering if it was a kind of inductively activated non-Newtonian viscous fluid coupler.

Is there a difference between rear coupler vs differentially?

Is it a viscus coupling?

Hi Matt why don’t you upgrade your video resolution?

hey did you ever follow up on this I have a problem and I was hoping you

Thanks for the video. I have a Journey with the same awd system and some sort of “clunk” at 20 and 40 mph. (Engage-disengage the rear differential). It was under warranty so I took it to the dealership. They replaced the whole transmission first but nothing, then the coupler saying it was bad, but I still filling the “cluck” so must likely is the actual differential. I’m glad it was for free but very bad technicians… I’ll disconnect it as you pointed out y see if it goes away… and back to the dealership

I have the same problem with couple fail. How if I drive only in 2wd and leave the problem , will be any further damage to other parts? Big thanks

it mite have to rotate to engage ?

Will this cause the 4wd over heat message ?

Wouldn't unplugging it just cause it to never go on at all and always run in 2wd?

Most likely this is an electromagnet similar to the DCCD of the STIs. Power to it, it engages, etc.

Hey Mr Matt I am a paid subscriber and I have a good one for you. I have 2010 Jeep Wrangler Sport and it's stuck in limp mode. Any suggestions?

Is there any truth to just replacing the two bearings and seal inside the coupler? I've read that this is if fact the problem with the coupler. That is $100 worth of parts.

2021 Nissan rogue with 27k needed to replace the AWD electronic coupling assembly part 38760-6RE3A , glad its a lease and under warranty . Nissan needs to up it’s quality control .

2017 QX 60 rear electronic coupler is bad like you explained. Can I just unplug it and leave it? Can’t afford to replace it

How do I find more info on the troubleshooting of this diff on your website?

Subaru's have a separate fuse for their AWD in the engine bay.

ANYONE KNOW WHY THE AWD LIGHT WOULD COME ON AFTER UNPLUGGING THE COUPLER? ITS OBVIOUSLY FAILING WHILE PLUGGED IN BUT NOTHING LIGHTS UP TILL ITS UNPLUGGED.2013 INFINITI JX35

Hi Matt

Was waiting for you to remove the bolts so we could see the coupling. So meh

I hate using my multimeter for amps too. I hate blowing up multimeters. Only one person to blame when that happens.

Same issue with Infiniti jx35

That thing is tiny. The differential, I mean.

Can I recommend an update video for the Delta variant of the coronavirus? EDIT: And Ivermectin I guess now... lmao