I was watching your video showing this procedure, I am working on a 2012 BMW 328i with same type of HLAs and when you buy new lifters from the dealer they are rock solid. Everyone I know says they need to be rock solid before install. I also questioned this theory since pressure has to build up gradually on usage, and thought the stiff solid lifter might damage or counter the valve or itself if not properly primed, despite what the manual says, BUT if you have done it successfully on different engines then it is all I need to now I usually go on experience that others share, so thanks.
Thanks for the comment. For the engine, I was overhauling I had to buy 4pcs of new HLA. As you could see on the video, I used one of them as a comparison, they are rock solid. The engine I rebuilt run very smoothly from the first start. If you work with BMW check HLA before you clean them, you can check the height as well before and after and you will find the answer yourself🙂
My concern would be that if hard material is used for the rod, it may (slightly) damage/scratch the surface of the check ball. I know the check ball is made of hardened steel, but still. I think soft material rod, such as a copper or aluminum wire would probably be safer.
@@JB_Auto I was thinking e.g. a solid 12gauge or 10gauge electrical copper wire (after insulation removed). Those should be strong enough and won't scratch hardened surfaces for sure 😀
I don't think you should install them fully pumped up and extended, as the adjustment of valve lash after running with oil pressure is somewhere in the middle of the lifters stroke, not fully extended, otherwise the engineers would simply use solid lifters instead.
Thanks for the comment. This is standard procedure, that's how we in the Mazda dealership prepare the HLAs. Check out the description, you will find an HLA installation note, that's an extract from the workshop manual.🙂
@@JB_Auto Good to know about Mazdas. Great info and method by the way on cleaning dirty lifters! Although, I do feel it's necessary to point out to others out there that I have seen the opposite information in most factory service manuals of other makes, (admittedly I don't have much experience with Mazdas) So just a word of caution kids..... unless you have a Mazda, with this particular engine, I would not recommend installing them fully pumped up without first doing your research about your particular application, as I know from experience that in some cases you could damage, break, or bend something when you go to torque the rocker assembly down, and also because a fluid of any kind cannot be compressed and therfore it will not be expelled from the lifter cavity past the check ball quick enough upon initial startup, which will incur unnecessary stress on your cam lobes, rockers, lifters and valve stems, even if only for a short time, you don't want that to occur at all if you can help it. Remember, hydraulic valve lash adjusters, or lifters for short, in this kind of application (where they are fixed into position in the rocker arm, without sliding up and down within a bore) are designed for the oil to go in and take up valve lash, or slack, and not come back out, hence the check ball, and why the oil gets so dirty inside them. Oil pressure pumps up usually in less than a second which is substantially faster than the time it would take for a fully pumped hydraulic lifter to bleed off its excessively tight valve lash past the check ball which is designed to keep the oil in permanently, they are designed to pump up once, to the correct lash adjustment, and then periodically allow a little more in, little by little as valvtrain components wear out, and that is it. This is why when you remove a used lifter, and you can compress it by hand, you know it's bad because the check valve has failed or gotten stuck allowing the oil to bleed out (commonly referred to as a collapsed, noisy, or ticking lifter) you should not be able to compress a properly functioning used lifter, that is it's job, to pump up and stay pumped up to a specific dimension eliminating all valve lash between the valve and camshaft, not to pump up fully and potentially prevent valves from closing all the way causing a loss of compression as well as unnecessary stress on all the other valvetrain components, most concerning of which are the cam lobes themselves as they are seeing higher forces because the valve is being extended further because the lifter is longer than it should be, thus compressing the spring more and translating to higher loads on the lobe until the lifter can be forced to bleed down (something it is not supposed to do to begin with.)
Je suis 100% d accord avec vous . Cest exactement se que je me disais et il y a pas mal de video erronée sur ce modèle de poussoir. E mieux serait de les nettoyer, les vider et les laisser se remplir d huile naturellement par le moteur il réglera le jeux naturellement entre le poussoir et le culbuteurs
Thanks! great video. Question. Do the oil holes on the side of the lifters need to line up? And Should I pre-load my lifters before installing them, or just soak them in oil? I have heard both
Thanks for the comment, You do not need to line them up, you should bleed them out as on my video, pre-loading is the wrong term because you do not pre-load but bleed out. If you do not bleed out they will be noisy at the beginning until filled up with oil.
@@JB_Auto when you say you bleed them do you bleed them fully? or halfway through? suppose its only halfway so it just needs to adjust only a little and would happen quickly rather than fully bleeding them?
Thank you for the post; very hard to find. Question: I purchased new HLA's (rock hard), however they unseat the valve when installed. Leave as is (they will sort out), or bleed off (slightly soft) so they don't overpower the new springs (thereby pressing the valves open)? Thx.
When new HLAs are installed (Mazda origina), then they are ready to use. So once installed, just turn the crankshaft a few times to be certain that there's no surprise. That's what I do.
Thanks for the informational video. I noted the intake and exhaust tappets are color-coded differently on the Mazda 2.2 diesel engine. Do you know how the colors should lined up? I'm not sure I remember correctly.
The HLAs are not color-coded, there is one part number for both exhaust and intake. The only things which are color coded are Valve springs and valve seals. The WM can find on the web free of charge, unfortunately, I do not remember the website.
I need ur advice plz. I fixed ford galaxy 2l engine and when I spin camshaft sprocket, camshafts don't push valves springs properly due to which , on one particular spot camshaft jumps. Could u plz advice what would be the reason
@noxwolf6678 Yes, it's normal. All HLA, which looks like the one as on my video, will always be hard after bleading, and that is actually a sign that they are in good shape. If you feel rebound, then it should be replaced.
@noxwolf6678 I don't think so. There could be slightly different shapes, but the principle is always the same. I know that you may be confused due to different approaches, and therefore, comments like on my channel quote: "YOU SHOULD NEVER PRIME OR PUMP UP YOUR LIFTERS" end of quote. Due to those comments, I also consulted that with my colleague, who is master technician for VW, we looked at procedures in the workshop manual, and that is exactly the same procedure.
@@JB_Auto Okay, I had a doubt because I have a ticking noise when cold I start the car the noise appears either after 5-10 min or when just after starting I drive for a few meters, and disappears after a few minutes when the engine rises in temperature when I ride after 10 minutes no more noise I dismantled the 24 lifters 2 were dead because they fit just but didn't come out I bought 2 new ones all I purged at the end they were all hard and I I still have the noise, I don't understand what it could be coming from now
@noxwolf6678 Well, if it is a higher frequency, then it could be other lifters. The valve train noise will have a higher frequency, and the crankshaft system will have lower, which is easy to distinguish. In certain cases, injectors can make noises similar to the lifters. Sometimes, it's difficult to find where the noise comes from. Check out my other videos about how to find noise from the engine. Try to use those approaches, and here are links. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3NPsgmi0T-w.html ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-YpHiD6TA6G4.html
If oil escapes that's a bad tappet, after you bleed the tappet out, check for a rebound by squeezing HLA with your hand or wooden block, if it is hard as a stone that indicates the tappet is good.
@therealspixycat You know what. I think I will add this subject to my future videos; as you can see in the comment section, there are many divided opinions about how you should deal with HLAs, and there are a lot of misconceptions
@JB_Auto cool! May be also show how to identify this issues while an engine runs? Ie listen using a stethoscoop or long screwdriver and try to capture that sound for your viewers? Cheers!
@@JB_Auto The video was pure gold. Having issues with a neighbors Ford f 150, and this info really helped me understand what might be going on with it. I’m more of an old school Mopar guy and these overhead cam engines are a learning curve. This was extremely helpful, so thanks.
No, the movement is almost not noticeable, if you place them into the head engine without oil then the movement will be visible for a brief while including noise.
Why did you left the lifter already with pressure inside? That is not right, lifter shoud automatic adjust on the first start up of the motor, doing what you did may cause to valves have contact with the piston or not properly close.
Thanks for the comment. This is a bleeding procedure that you need to perform before assembling HLA to the head engine. HLA adjustment is performed while the engine is running and is done by utilising oil pressure, everything I show in my videos is based on a workshop manual and experience. Here is link for an extract from workshop manual: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3nFbUixbEPQ.html
@@JB_Auto Sry but you are wrong, yes you need to bleed but they need to have free play not rock solid, how the oil pressure will adjust lifter when you let them already fully extended? never do that again, you will damage the valves, they need to move, oil pressure will fill them and automatic adjust them. You can bleed them withou let them fully rock solid or fullu extended.
So explain to me why after bleeding out, one of the judging criteria of HLA is to check if there is a rebound, and if the rebound is present you need to replace them? By the way, I have Already repaired plenty of those engines, and there was one time where I forgot to bleed them out and that was the only time where the engine was noisy at initial start-up. I'm curious how would you prepare the HLA before assembly, can you write?
One more thing, that position is let's say prepared zero position, fully extended will be while applied pressure. You need to obtain a workshop manual for CX5 PDF form free download, and there is a clear description regarding how it works, you do not need to believe me.
I've done as he showed in the video. After installing tappets, I first tuned the crankshaft with a wrench, no collision between valves and the piston, then started the engine, and it runs smoothly, so what are you talking about?
Good afternoon, how do I manage to translate from English, and you can't translate from Serbian to English ?? It is a pity that the mechanics will not say how much the hydro lifts and seesaws are changed for, in order to destroy your engine in order to charge for more work, they should be ashamed that they are doing so ???
Hi, I'm not sure I understand it; I hope this answer will be satisfactory. The lifespan of HLA and rocker arms depends on oil change intervals, engine oil contamination. There is also a question of whether the engine is mechanically modified or not. There must be performed an inspection and, based on that, evaluation whether it is within tolerance or not. So as you can see, there is no clear answer for how long they will last before replacement.
Who cleans damaged lifters? Check in advance if they are malfunctioning, remaining clean to achieve maximal performance. And of course you can change them all.
Zalosno je sto mehanicari nece da kazu na koliko se menjaju hidro podizaci i klackalice, da bi vam unistili motor kako bi naplatili veci rad, treba da ih sramota sto postupaju tako???
YOU SHOULD NEVER PRIME LIFTERS YOU PUTTING INTO CAR! THEY HAVE TO BE EMPTY! thay are auto adjusted, when you prefill lifter with oil it have no more adjustment capability.
@SayWhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaat ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-3nFbUixbEPQ.htmlsi=J_DGGPMRNH_fUXXL Here is the link and that is an extract from workshop manual. So that is what you should do before installing HLA. That is exactly what is in the video plus cleaning of HLAs. Any questions?
If sealed remove whatever seals it, and make sure that they are ready to use. Usually are ready because there is oil in them and no rebound is present, as on the video.
Use engine oil since the part is related to the engine, then you bleed it out until no bubbles come out, then if HLA is good it becomes hard to press, or rebound disappears, if you can not get rid of rebound you should replace them.
@@JB_Auto thanks brother I just washed it with diesel latter I will put engine oil and make sure they are rock hard. Warm andgood holidays thanks once again hop we can keep chatting
