Those "buttons" on the front are the reason why I can't sell norcold fridges. Finicky and plain aweful. Is there any tips on how to get them to function more dependably?
I was wondering what does it mean when I unplug it it kicks in it that little box Sensi code, and then ignites into the flame. I plug it back in and it shuts it off. What does that mean?
Hi any idea on why my Norcold 6 cubic feet 3 way is freezing in the refrigerator? I have it set on 1 and running on propane and everything is frozen solid! The light did stop working before this started. No codes tho thanks!🤙
Typically, Norcold refrigerators have a Thermistor. It connects to your light fixture inside the refrigerator compartment with a 4-prong connector. Turn the temperature setting to somewhere in the middle and disconnect the Thermistor. If the refrigerator starts warming up and maintains a good level of cool, then we know that the Thermistor has failed. If after you disconnect the Thermistor the refrigerator continues to freeze everything, you will need to replace the Optical Control Board (board in the front of the refrigerator where you change the temp settings and turn it off and on). Hope this helps -Todd
Reference this video for repair. If it continues to happen you will have to bring it in for service. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zKOMuGfkWtQ.html
Yes, there are various different models. Do you have a specific issue going on with yours that you need help with? If so look inside your door for a tag that has the model # and include that with your comment and I'll be happy to help you out. -Todd
Refrigerator Temperature Settings Norcold Polar 7 Series (N7V, N7X, N7LX) Models Polar 8 Series (N8V, N8X, N8LX) Models (One button display controller) Refrigerator Temperature Settings has three (3) temperature settings. Touch and hold the ON / OFF button. The power ON indicator light will go out. Continue to hold the Power ON / OFF button. The power ON indicator light will come on after 20 seconds and go off again after 23 seconds. Continue to hold the Power ON / OFF button. The power ON indicator light will come on again after 30 seconds. Release Power ON / OFF button. The color of the power ON indicator light shows the current tem-perature setting of the refrigerator: Green shows the COLD temperature setting. Amber shows the COLDER temperature setting. Red shows the COLDEST temperature setting. Factory preset is on green temperature setting Touch and release the Power ON button and the Power ON / indicator light will flash on and off, which indicates that the temperature setting can be changed. While the Power On indicator light is flashing, touch and release the Power ON button to change to each of the three (3)temperature settings, one at a time. When the desired temperature setting is shown, touch and hold the Power On button for ten (10) seconds to exit the temperature setting mode. The Power ON / indicator light will stop flashing and return to the solid GREEN or AMBER depending on whether you are currently using propane or electric.
You missed one very important comment completely. The 12vdc to the refrigerator MUST BE ON to operate in gas or electric mode. Further, the unit is EXTREMELY sensitive to 12vdc voltage drop below approx. 12.1 vdc and will cause the unit to fail if battery is low. OWNERS MANUALalso does not cover this for operation
Yes sir you are absolutely correct. Without 12volts the system will not even turn on. It is an important factor in the operation of the fridge. My apologies for leaving that out. -Todd
I have the model shown in your video. It currently will start on shore power, but within a few minutes switches to propane. Power is good to all receptacles and the rest of the RV (RedHawk 26M), only the fridge is effected. Any ideas?
More than likely it’s the control board not recognizing the 110 power. There is a 110 fuse on the board you can verify if it is blown. If it is good, then the board is likely bad. -Todd
Thank you!! It worked! Now, the refrigerator is working on gas! We are camping where there is no power, so we were going to have to leave. Thank you, thank you!!!
Shore power is needed for electric operation, but you need to ensure you have 12 volts to the fridge as well in order for it to turn on. If you look at minute mark 3:25 in the video there is a green and white wire coming in from the bottom to the board. This is your house battery supplied 12 volts to the fridge. Check for power here to start. If no power there find your 12 volt fuse panel in your unit and check the fuses for any that are blown. If you do have power at those wires then remove the cover on the board in the back of the fridge and check the 12 volt blade fuse on the board. Let me know if this helps resolve the issue. -Todd.
@@thatoks6498 so that is your battery disconnect, if you turn that off it will kill the power to the fridge. It has to be left on in order for it to operate.
Straight from norcold a manual Operation during travel: While the refrigerator should be level when the vehicle is stopped, performance during travel is not usually effected. Always use caution when using gas, an open flame when fueling up your vehicle or other occasions that you would have flammable materials that would have fumes. Also check state laws that may require you to have it shut off, especially in tunnels.
Does anyone know how I can get my norcold to start or come on and start cooling again I've looked at the codes first time having an RV it's not working properly I hear it ignite but then it goes off
@@GreatAmericanRV also it is not cooling what happened is last week we had some rain and my lights went out my neighbor told me and then my icebox was beeping when I came home and it would not after it was thawing out and it never got cold again it's been working fine until the electricity went out over here
I’m assuming it is not working on electric as well as the gas. If so double check your breakers inside the camper. If the breaker is good and neither gas or electric will work it is possible the board is bad on the back of the fridge. If it is just the gas that will not work it is possible it is the flame thermocouple sensor. Based off of your answer it is still hard to tell if that is it. But if you will still hear the clicking noise after the flame ignites and then it will go out again and then continue to try to light even though the flame is lit then that’s likely it. Basically it doesn’t know it lit.
