I bought one of these after watching your video. Works great for softer steels and for any sharpening job that I dont want to risk damaging waterstones with. Like sharpening gardening tools that may or may not have oil on them or odd angles that would cause the tool blade to take chunks out of my other stones.
I love my King water stones but it's nice to have this stone too because I never have to worry about cutting into the stone or dishing it out at all (mine is dead flat after using it for years) Here's a pro tip I found, sounds weird I know, but instead of using oil, just use your saliva on the stone, it works just as well and it's water soluble so you can wash it all off and have a perfectly clean stone at the end. Never have to worry about clogged up oily stones again.
I have got fine Norton India stone FB8 it works very good as rough sharpening after this I use King Deluxe 1200 it works very well, grit of India FB8 is about 400, I use it with vegetable (olive) oil, it works fine.
I use a fine India then soft Arkansas, hard Arkansas and lastly a strop with green compound. Time consuming but rewarding. When you get the edge right it barely makes a sound on the hard Arkansas.
I have this stone, it is weird that this stone does not work on cheap knives from my own experience, I have tried sharpening more expensive knives and it does a great job.
I've had good success with the Kiwi brand on the Norton India Fine with water/ dawn soap. Not so much with oil but the better blades, yes Norton Honing Oil.
I have a serrated Spyder Edge version if the K04 (6" utility) in MBS 26 and it is an awesome knife for the kitchen, it can do almost anything that needs to be done.
You don't press hard at the apex, only right behind it. When apexing you barely touch the stone. Note that the apex was removed at the very start so until the apex is formed you can use higher pressure.
I'm aware of both the principle and techniques involved, but good luck in reaching the apex (or any minuscule point behind it) all at once, even on relatively straight edge-lines that you have previously sharpened. As slow cutting as India stones can be on many steels, I for one don't have the time or patience (or even eyesight) for an infinite number of kissing passes, and the more passes one needs to make, the greater the affect of tiny yet accumulative inaccuracies in angles. For kitchen cutlery, with generally low thickness behind the edge and easily ground steels, the problems aren't so pronounced, but I never want to spend more than 5-10 minutes putting a new edge on a kitchen knife. For heavier duty knives India stones would not be my first choice in any event. But I think you perhaps miss the point of my comment, which essentially supported Stefan's view that heavy passes were not preferable.
I wouldn't recommend any particular stone system to anyone; India, or similar sintered stones, have worked fine for many generations, and still do. Go with what works for you. I sometimes use them myself just for a change, but am not overly keen on oil stones just because of the time spent cleaning up. For my kitchen cutlery I generally use diamond bench stones followed by feather-light passes on a ceramic honing rod because I have found a method that works for me. For my high end Japanese kitchen cutlery I still prefer water stones, mainly for aesthetic reasons. There's more than one way to skin a cat, but a sharp knife generally makes the job easier. :)
difflocktwo Norton crystolon medium or fine - more friable ( releasing fresh abrasive with less force/pressure). I have a few videos with both stones + the coarse crystolon on my channel.
Illya Nation 3 in 1 works fine but better still is mineral oil from the drugstore. Perfect for the purpose and it's odorless. It's also cheap. It is the same stuff as Norton honing oil.
@@stefanwolf88 Thank you for answering. I was interested in it after reading a lot of cliff stamps posts about primary bevels in the 8-12 range which sounds crazy :O
Yes but imo, the Norton Honing Oil which is just mineral oil that has been cut is good but I make it better by cutting it again with about 7% mineral spirits to mineral oil by volume. Excellent performance and does good with the Norton Crystolon lineup of stones.
Norton Honing Oil is the best I've used. It's just mineral oil cut with something but not mineral spirits or you could smell it and the oil doesn't give off a scent but it performs very well.
Hello i just got one of these and thought id watch and learn anything before i start playing with it. I also got a nordstrand flattening stone, for my dished out smiths combo stone. It looks like the coarse is the same material as the flattening stone. It really did nothing but polish my coarse stone after several minutes. Will it roughen up again eventually? I think it has a hard binder in it or something. Thanks
It is best to use oil on oil stones and water on water stones. Norton honing oil is nothing more than food-grade mineral oil, so you can save yourself a *lot* of money by just purchasing that in the laxatives section of your local drugstore.
I tried 3-in-1. Smells awful in my opinion. And I suspect it has chemicals in it I don't want on my hands. I like mineral oil or light machine oil. Some guys use soapy water on "oil" stones. Your preference.
Kolega, can I ask for a professional recommendation of yours comparing this stone with Naniwa economical 120/1000. Which will be faster, last longer or in general do a better job in normal kitchen use?
