It is probably the pump running. Try this. Hold the start button down until the pump shuts off. Then, unplug machine for a full 5 minutes. If this does not work, allow the pump to run until it shuts off. 5 to 10 minutes it should shut down.
When i plug in my washer without pressing any button, it comes on with the lid being up! It sounds as if it is trying to fill but no water is filling the tub. When I spin it by hand, the sound stops and then starts back up about 2 sec after I let go
I all you did was move it. Hopefully you put the shipping back in it. Are you sure you are getting water to the machine. If you did not put the shipping in before moving it. May have pulled a wire off. pinched a pressure hose. Hard to tell
My top load amana washing will only sensing for wash, it washes, then barely drains doesn't spin all the water , the problem to begin with has been the lid lock wouldn't lock it would only click. Also i found a small spring like to a pen, or like remote springs after finding it would completely finish the complete cycles ? This machine is new. Old one is a whirlpool top loader too, will the lid lock from that one fit my amana washer, I think maybe? "I'm not sure, will please help me? " PLEASE 🙏🏻 RESPOND, THANK YOU! GOD BLESS YOU ,
The machine will not spin out as long as there is water in the tub. Something is restricting your drain. Kinked hose, slow drain standpipe, something stuck between tubs, a coin in the drain hose etc. Your Amana washer is a Whirlpool washer. Amana sold out in the 80's
Mine is stuck in auto sence. And all the water that its trying to fill is just beening drained right back out. I did the recalibration but still doing it. Do you know?
Probably the sensor on the shifter is bad or obstructed from sight of spin tube. You can take the chance and order the shifter or call for authorized servicer
Mine is stopping on rinse. I went into diagnostic mode and it threw code F7E1. Went to manual mode and everything worked the way it should. Im thinking a control board? Is there anything else to check? My father never used hot water he keeps the valve off, he washed clothes like this for 2 yrs?(Dont know if that matters) Any info will help! Thanks for the help already
It is probably the shifter/ actuator. It has a sensor on it. I have seen several that are just block by mouse nest, items sucked up off of the floor. It is located under the machine. It is held in place with 2 green screws. If you plan on checking yourself make sure you unplug it and have some help.
I have this machine (or it's very similar, our model is NTW4705ew0), it's 2 years old. It drains and agitates but refuses to spin. It starts to try, then the rinse light just blinks, and the lid is locked. We replaced the latch assembly, thinking that there was a malfunction with the lid lock...but it didn't fix anything ($50!). Googling has told me that the lid switch probably needs to be replaced, but I cannot find that part number in the parts guide. do you have any suggestions?
I do not know what you mean by tore up the dial. She pulled it off and ripped it up? Sounds to me like the knob is your problem. The metal clip in the knob is missing, are the shaft is cracked, are the dial is not on the shaft correctly. pull the knob straight off. It has a flat side to it. Should go on flat side to flat side on shaft on the control unit.
Bought my Amana second hand. Brought home and used without calibration ( no paperwork). Everything is fine except can't/ won't do sense water level required. Always fills completely. Also no rinse cycle on regular load. So usable but wish it could sense load. Got manual out and did calibration. Still no sensing. What next?
Do you know the last time it was cleaned? Need to clean unit every 30 loads or 30 days. Whichever comes first. Use Afresh and no clothes during clean cycle.
Ok the washer is made from cheaply made parts but expensive to buy, try a hard reset by unplugging and plugging back in and hitting the start button holding it for 15 seconds , if both hot and cold water aren't used simultaneously and controlled by the washers water inlet valve...it's too smart for its own good
Hot and cold water must be on for washer to propy operate without issues because the washer water inlet valve has control wiring and with only cold input the hot input isn't reading and it automatically throws error into the washers programed logical control board and it ... I found this out after having to replace my washer water inlet valve, my washing machine was sitting in the laundry room attached to our door garage and the power went out causing the pipes to freeze while we were asleep and woke up to no water and went out and hoses were froze solid and a couple of pipes that were leading from the main in t'd off for an outside water shut off valve for a yard hose the pipe busted when the ice started thawing, and had to shut water off with a T bar and replumb in the water line but I deleted the outside water cut off spicker and filled the cinder block wall with sack-crete, but when I checked washer out the cheaply made washer water inlet valve was also frozen and busted the cold inlet side ...but I went on Amazon ordered the part that had part number directly on it and $50.00 and a few days and had to replace the broken washer water inlet valve and made sure part numbers matched exactly and not to get the will work with part , but the OEM part...there are cheaper ones but I intend to get the guaranteed exact part by the part number so there would be no issues ... The heat came back on in laundry room after power came back on , thawed frozen pipes and made ice expand to crack anything made of inferior quality like the before the laundry room had the old cheap prime and glue cpvc plumbing instead of the temperature rated PEX for hot and for cold water , but the part I had to install if the cold water is on by itself it will pump water , it will spin without agitator and pump water out through drain.. the switch to control the temp is there for a literal reason... use both hot and cold. I tried just cold water , so I did the hard reset, the unplug washing machine, then plug back in about 90 seconds later , then close lid hot start with both hot and cold water turned on , then set the temperature control to just cold water and let the washing machine do what it's supposed to do when hot water is on , the electronic control wiring has a water tight contact that seals the hot water inlet closed so no hot water is used ...if you don't put both hot and cold , the control wiring sends the head unit where the PLCB is and makes the washer with all it's smart sensors and crap to run differently then it is supposed to run, the lights blinking indicate the error being read and sent to the PLCB and the washer will not run properly..these washers are not made for individuals without electrical engineering or any experience with control work , or at least a journeyman construction electrician, meaning wiring machinery up , testing all connections with meters and checking all boards with an portable TinySA Spectrum Analyzer, SEESII Upgraded version at least a V0.2.0 but a V0.3.1 is plenty good enough, where you can check out entire electrical system of the washer ...you can calibrate PC control using the USB interface implements over the serial USB (CDC) protocol and there are commands that can be invoked over the serial interface.. can use them to command and use to perform measurements or update internal settings, and the software will work with windows and the driver for windows will install automatically after you hook the spectrum analyzer up to the USB to your windows device, the SeeSii is the one I would use it is a must for any individual that is in the business to provide equipment that's accurately and practical testing instruments and providing maintenance to the equipment to ensure the reliability and safety of the equipment being sold..
If your troubleshooting your own washer it's cheaper to let a trusted licenced bonded and insured appliance repair service repair any type of machinery that has electronics and water and the education to ensure proper and warrantied guaranteed repairs for your electrical appliances especially when it's a smart appliance with self sensors and there is a PLCB and wiring and other electrical parts that need proper testing and ensuring the correct voltage, resistance, amperage, current, ohms, conductance, capacitance, charge, inductance, power, watts, impedance, frequency, Hertz, farad, Sieman, Coulomb, Henry, and all the multiples of sub- multiples, tera, giga, mega,kilo,none,centi,milli,micro,nano,pico..there is decibels, phase angles, angular frequency and ,time constant. So I'd you don't understand anything I have listed or you don't know how it allies to what we are talking about , then ease hire someone reputable to ensure the safe repair and safety of the electrical appliance that your having trouble with...
The soap you have to use today is HE. Thank a democrat for that. Your soap will not activate if the water temperature is below 88.1^ That is why they cycle the cold water with hot if incoming water is to cold. I you want a washer that will last and never breakdown, they have never existed. If you want a washer that will last 15 to 20 years stop looking at price tags below $900.00. In 1970 the mid line washer was 379.00. All parts are expensive. Does not matter who builds it.
You have a siphoning issue. Make sure end on drain hose is up at least 35 inches from floor and it is in a 2" minimum standpipe. It cannot have another hose attached to machine drain hose
@@spicky2966fifteen years? Whirlpool didn't make that washer yet. I had it for two months, peice of crap. Sold it ,the person I sold it to, said the computer board died two months later.
Do you see any lights on the control board. There should be one green light on the main board. If there is no green light it means unit is not getting power. If there is you have a control issue possible. Be sure you unplug unit while you are getting to control. Once you have control panel laid down on the top make sure you and all tools are out of the way and then plug it in and give it a few seconds for light to come on
@@greenpugcactus3143 Sorry to hear that. It is a good machine for the money. Whirlpool builds that machine under 9 names I know of. Only top load machines that will last 10 years is Speed Queen or Frigidaire top load
I just worked on one of these. It's under warranty so I ordered a new board but I'm not sure it that will work. Just putting it on any cycle it would auto start so I thought board but I guess it could be lid lock😢
Did you run diagnostic cycle and pull up your fault codes. Service sheet is either in the control panel are attached to the backside of the cabinet in the front. If you are not a tech I would advise you to call a factory authorized tech. Control boards are not returnable from where you bought it and they have a 60.00 core charge.
@godfreyappliance5585 I didn't even know you replied! Thanks! That means a lot to me. I tried to run diagnostic but when I put it on any cycle it would automatically go and it would run intermittently. I wanted to call tech support but apparently my company and doesn't have tech support for whirlpool. Thankfully the homeowner has assurant as a warranty so I was honest with him And the let him know the situation and said I'll order a control board and it was covered so I'm going back Tuesday Jan 16th to put it in and to be honest I'm hoping for the best. But that's why I'm here, I'm trying to be better but I'm a new appliance tech. Only been doing it 3 months and only 2 weeks on my own
@godfreyappliance5585 hey I don't want to take all your time but I'm thinking about master samurai appliance tech schooling. It looks well known in the appliance repair field and I just wanted to ask your opinion on it
So, my mother tore up the dang dial. All of a sudden it’s fixed but the washer is also suddenly not working. I did the recalibration thing although I had to move the dial backwards for it to go to sensing fill. Idk if it’ll manually go to the next steps or not. Idk what’s wrong with it or what to tell someone who knows she threw it off but won’t admit it. I got the water to come on though. It went to wash mode which is the next light obviously but it’s just sitting there. I really need it to wash & for it to operate correctly without the flashing light. Can you help me?
It only allows 6 minutes to fill.if it does not get. It will stop and drain out and shut off. Remember the end of the drain hose needs to be as high as the machine and only 6 inches into standpipe
No. If lock light is on and the tub is not spinning. Then you probably have a bad sensor. The control is being told the tub is still spinning. That sensor will be known as a shifter or actuator. Do you have dog's ? Mice like to build nest and store dog food in transmission opening. If they build a nest in that area the sensor can not read the transmission indicator
i broke the locking mechanism so when i press the power button the light flashes a few times then goes off so i guess its time for a new washer unless theres another way to fix it
@@godfreyappliance5585I did the same thing. Broke the strike on the door lock when trying to get to my rods. Machine was making terribly loud noises. I fixed that but, now the machine will turn on, fill but, not agitate and I'll hear the constant clicking of what seems like the lock trying to latch.
Dear Life, whatever jerk, whatever. Bad luck, good luck, bad luck, good luck. Make up your mind please. I had went for nearly a solid year washing my laundry in the tub because my old Maytag finally bit the dust and I couldn't afford to replace it. ( Bad luck ). My neighbor was moving and sold me her slightly dinged up, but functional GE washer for $100 & my ex-husband offered to move it over & set it up for me, for $20 ( good luck). He loaded it onto his tailgate without tying it down & when he turned into my driveway, hit the curb, which launched it off the tailgate & into the street where it lost every clip holding it together as it bounced and tumbled to it's demise. Then he refused to return his $20 fee or pick up the washers remains scattered on the street .( Bad luck). The Scrapman who stopped to get the remains of the GE washer on Sunday morning had a Amana washer nearly new on his truck which he said I could have bc he didn't think it worked (but it did) and when I returned from church that afternoon, a new Samsung Smart washer was being delivered in my drive from my opposite neighbor who had watched the GE episode unfold previously..( good luck ). Because I had just received the Amana from the scrapman earlier and it was working great, I told him to return it to Lowes and get his money back. (Bad luck because) This all happened last month, and.. Last night.... Well, that Amana washer decided to get stuck on stupid and won't go past the sense fill cycle but gives me no error codes. Maybe, finding your video will fling some good luck at me and get me off this frustrating luck roulette merry-go-round life is giving me.
We have a very similar model, new this spring. This washer started working funky when on the cleaning cycle. This week had problems while in the rinse cycle while doing a white wash, when the rinse cycle was over, a rinse started over twice. Stopped the machine. Switched to spin/drain, well once again the machine would not leave the spin cycle and do a final drain. So stopped the machine again. Pushed the start button, and with no cycle lights showing the machine started dumping water. Finally got the machine to go into a final spin, after a normal rinse. Could this be a control board issue like the one you described?
In the clean washer cycle, no clothing can be in the machine. The reason it went into drain cycle on it's own it was in flood. Once you push that start button it is best not to touch it until the unit has finished a cycle. 2nd rinse cycle may have been the machine try to rest an off balance load. To clear the machine you must push and hold the start button. Continously pushing, turning knob will do nothing more than lock up the control.
Try to unplug it for 10 to 15 minutes and plug it back in and see if it unlocks. Try holding the start button down for a few minutes and see if that unlocks it. If neither works you will need to contact service
Can you actually see water in the wash basket? If you cannot see water in the wash basket but hear water sloshing around, the counterbalance ring is filled with salt water. It is to assist in counterbalance the spin cycle. If you see water still in the basket you either have a restriction in the drain system are clothing was left in it overnight.
I been looking and working on mine for 2.5 days. Please let me know if u find a way. Mines got 3 wires on it. I don't want to blow the board is my maim deal
Pull the cap off the top off the agitator, remove the seal cap if on your product, remove bolt in the center and pull up from the very bottom of the agitator.
Video was not meant for you to understand. It was done for the Factory itself so they could see the software issue with the unit. Which they viewed and corrected
When You say no fault code I have the 3 lights blanking sensing rinse and complete cycle and after I do a auto test mode and press the button it go completely off
@@godfreyappliance5585 only if the capacitor is completely dead -I fixed one last month it was still running.... i changed capacitor after checking capacitor for capacitance and recalibration and now its fine
Do not know where you live. Menard was selling that washer and dryer set for $399.00. That washer is also the same as Whirlpool, Maytag, Roper, Estate, Kitchenaid, Estate, Crosley. Maytag set is 529.00.
