Odies Oil vs. Rubio Monocoat: Why I Will Never Use Odies Oil Again 

In the first minute I could tell that you didn’t wipe the Odie’s off enough. And NEVER should you need a full jar of it on anything. Well, maybe an entire house exterior lol. Because of this I can’t say this is a good comparison video.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but your Odies oil problem is that it's a lot more work up front to get great, long lasting results. I use Odies and while it's admittedly not as easy to apply as Rubio, the results are stunning and hold up very well to normal use and proper care. I noticed several mistakes you made but rather than hashing all that, I'll just explain how to use Odies properly and maybe you could try it again. I think it's worth it. First, after sanding your wood to at least 600-800 grit. (The higher you go in grit from there, your finished product will become even shinier.) I've found 1200 grit works great on most hardwoods for an almost mirror like finish. IMHO, there's not much difference any higher than that. After sanding and thoroughly cleaning the surface, you apply the Odies oil SPARINGLY(After thoroughly mixing it in the jar at room temp first) At best, you may have needed a third of that jar for that table. (I made the same mistake my first time but rather than use acitone and sanding, I just buffed by hand for 2 days. Tomato/tomatoe ) Only apply a dime sized dollop at a time and work it in, in sections. To do the BEST job, you should apply the oil in small circular motions with A fine Mirlon pad. I believe they are 2400 grit standard. You need to work it into every inch of the wood by hand. There shouldn't be so much oil left that you can scrape it off with your fingernail. That's way too much. On a table that size, if you haven't worn your arm out several times, you aren't doing it right. Once you have the oil on evenly and there are no dry spots, let it sit for 30 minutes to 1 hr. No more than an hour or it makes it a lot harder to get off but give it time to penetrate the wood. Next, use a clean dry, lint free rag (You'll need several in fact, once they get oiled up) and fold it into a rectangle. Push with both hands, WITH THE GRAIN to wipe off all the oil. Wipe off All of it. When your rag gets oily, get a fresh one. You should be able to wipe your finger across the top without leaving an oily mark when you're done. Then the final and most important step is to take another clean rag and polish (Buff, Buff, Buff). You could use a buffer at this point but you can overheat the oil and make you start over if you're not careful. No need to ask me how I know that. It's just best to do it by hand. I have several pieces of large live edge hardwood furniture I've made with Odies, one of which is my 6x3.5 foot kitchen island. It takes some abuse. Water beads on it for hours and never leaves a ring. I can clean it with just a damp rag. About twice a year, I apply a very light coat of odies with the miroln pad that I just leave in the jar then buff it off. The shine is back to day one. I highly recommend it. On a side note, I will mention that the finish will still continue to darken some for the next 2-3 days. Nothing dramatic but it will be a shade darker than day 1. I hope this helps.

Based off my experience, as a profesional woodworker. I would say odies is much more durable. Rubio is no where near as water resistant. Also, it does appear that you applied odies incorrectly

Have you never seen anyone apply this finish before you man. This is a great video to show people how not to apply both of these finishes. So I guess good job if that was your goal!

I did a 7'x2'x2" black walnut live edge mantle using odies oil. Two coats took at most 3 table spoons of Odies at most. I'll probably use this jar for years. Applied a glob to a scrub pad, then scraped it back into the jar. Used whatever remained on the pad to apply to almost a 1/4 of the top side before repeating. If you used a jar, you either are trying to make odies look bad, or you don't know how to use it.

Yes, he clearly put too much odies on as you can see from that finger nail mark. With that said though, I can understand why he kept adding it. Odies does dry out very quickly, and will not look great after the first few weeks. It’s not a great product, but having a whole jar of it on one table is not the answer either.

Been using odies for a few years. It will take a ton of convincing to make me change.

We have been using the rubio product for 10 years and cannot fault it. The only thing I'd do differently is to use the black pigmented version in full, half or quarter strength to mask the yellowness of your timber. Yes the table will be darker but the grain will be further highlighted and the timber not so yellow.

the fact that you can scratch the finish (not the wood) of the table so easily with your fingernail means that you failed to wipe off all of the excess odies oil off between applications. this is not a film finish, meaning that you dont want any of it to cure or polimerize on top, so no oil should remain above the surface of the wood. this is an application problem not a problem with the product. with that said. by all means use rubio instead if you like it. its a wonderful finish and easy to use

I use Odie's all the time. It gives a beautiful finish.

Just came across this video. I've used both Odie's and Rubio. I'm going to go the other direction than most the of comments I'm reading below. I've had far better results from Rubio than Odie's. While it is very true, a little bit goes a long way - for both finishes. I have found a far more durable, even finish with Rubio. I've also used Rubio tinted 5% white - which is GREAT for light colored wood like maple. It doesn't give the yellow tint like Pure does. So - for me personally - I will stick with Rubio for larger projects and table tops. But I'd still use Odie's for smaller projects. Honestly - to each his own. I think it goes down to personal taste. You did a fine job on the table - and you learned from your mistake (Rubio's documentation even tells you - you can never take too much off!) Nice job!

Oldies is really great for Charcuterie boards but you need to work it in and then buff it and get any excess off in about 30 min. I love the Rubio for my tables. I use both on products.

I like the table but you are woefully uninformed on the proper method of applying Odie's oil.

I am speaking from fourty years in the trade FYI. When I made my wife's dining table in European Cherry I used a traditional linseed oil based product called Volvox. It is not dissimilar to what Stradivarius would have varnished his violins with. It takes time to cure but gives amazing clarity and depth to the grain of the timber. It just gets better and better with age. It's expensive but goes a long way. That being said no finish is bullet proof and our family table long since lost that glow from hard use. But it doesn't bother us in the slightest. Every stain and dent is a story. Live with it. Showroom shine is fine for some things but Table's like bench tops are a working surface. The more perfect the finish, the more imperfections stand out. If I need to refresh and water proof the surface, PURE beeswax works best. This modern obsession with perfectly flat shiny showroom surfaces is un natural and unrealistic. Life is not about perfection and in any event that epoxy will start to break up in the UV. I don't bother to fill knots. I leave them. I hate fillers and epoxy. Sorry, but in Europe we don't have this same clinical obsession towards natural materials.

In my woodworking journey I have learnt many things but finishing is the black magic of furniture as represents the challenges of different wood types and use cases. I started out with stains and standard polyurethane clear coats, played with some tinted poly’s and finally settled on a modified wax product that is German but sold under an Australian brand by WhittlesWaxes under the Evolution brand. The product is one pot for indoor use but comes with a hardener for floors and outdoor uses, coverage was excellent and wetted out to a smooth warm finish. They have some color tinted versions but clearly state the colors are color in the finish so you can dilute into the finish if you want. Coverage was 30m2/liter which is about 1200 sq.ft/gal. Comes in 4 sheens from gloss to satin. About USD60/liter or quart. Takes 12-15 hours to fully dry but is touch dry in 30 mins.

Rubio says never sand over 180. It wont hold onto enough oil to last very long

That sandpaper storage is exquisite. Looking to find something similar.

I have to question your methods with the Odie's and why it failed. Why? Because you didn't sand to Rubio's instructions when you were applying it. That's a concern. I would've called Odies and spoken with someone to find out what the problem could've been.

02:35 Pedro's Tacos!! I really need to make a road trip down to South County soon for some grub. Also, give Osmo Polyx a shot. "Clear" for walnut/dark woods, "raw" for white oak/light woods. I've been very happy with the results. I feel it's as good as Rubio without the extra step of having to mix up a batch with the hardener. Cheers!

after the first coat of Rubio, you have to wipe off all the excess using any cloth. then if you want to buff it, go for it. It won't be as sticky. or you don't have to buff it at all.

You over applied the Odie’s Oil and never properly removed all the excess/residual oil. This is very apparent by being able to leave a mark with your fingernail. Odie’s works by residing IN the wood not on the wood. When properly applied it performs as advertised and definitely outperforms Rubio which is essentially a weak wipe on polyurethane.

if you have applies Odies just like you apply Rubio, your Odies finish was too thick. You say you apply and apply it again making it more thicker. It will nerver cure at all. You may remove any excess by wiping it off. Using a buffer do not wipe off, it just spreading the finish. I'm thinking this is certainly why Odies not work on your table.

A full jar of odies covers like 400 square ft.

Please tell us what the second coat of Rubio did. Yes, looks great in the video. But do you think the second coat gave you more sheen? Filled the wood pores better (my main complaint with Rubio)? I'm using it on cherry and it's given me a very uneven, open-pore finish which is OK but not really what I wanted. I was expecting the "wax" nature of it to fill the pores a bit more and leave the surface sheen more uniform. Oh well. Thanks!

One needs to educate themselves on how to use each individual product. You clearly did not do your due diligence on how to apply Odies oil. It is a wonderful product if the application is done correctly, do your research and refrain from educational videos when you are clearly not a professional, and have no business trying to teach others when you do not know yourself.

Question, did you not finish the bottom of the table? I might be concerned that there would be some moisture problem and possible cupping of the wood with only one side finished. I have not done a project this size but am wanting to. Trying to look out for problems. Thanks. Beautiful table.

I want to try Rubios. I use Odie's a lot but on small guitar parts I make which works really well. I do a lot of color treating to woods prior so likely another reason it takes the oil well. One difference I do that you didn't is add their Odie's Super Duper Everlasting Oil after the first coat of the regular stuff. It's a real thin version of their oil. Just something else to consider. I'll pick up some Rubio's though and give it a shot!

A whole jar??!! 😳 Bruh, I usually shake the jar and literally only use what's in the cap for almost 4 square ft. Its all about the elbow grease in rubbing it in and buffing it off. Too much Odies, leaves it tacky and dry spots. It's all about the application. Just my experiences tho. I would tend to agree that Rubio would be easier for larger applications tho. Odies for my smaller applications.

Looks incredible, super helpful information as well! Cheers for posting!

What you are wiping off is the dust that's left after sanding not the oil finish....As for Rubio,we are using it in the workshop as our go to finish as it's very economical, only one coat required and they have a lot of different colors and durable, smells decent also. Also you are supposed to apply it with a scotch pad so it pushes in the grain. Good to see that you are not afraid of posting video where you make mistakes though ,after all that's the best way to learn.

Wait, you used pretty much a whole jar of Odie's on just that table? I'm pretty sure you can't blame Odie's when you disregard their specific instructions.

Yeah… lost me in the first 15 seconds with “countless layers”. Used way too much Odie’s Oil. And the part where you run your nail across the wood shows product not properly buffed off. Also, you can tell it wasn’t properly buffed off at the same point in the video when I could see oil on the epoxy portion just sitting there. Using Odie’s Oil, from my experience takes some practice. Good to learn on small items to get used to it before tackling a large project like a table.

I absolutely love Rubio and as you dislike Odie's. Have had great long term results and will continue to use the Rubio as my go to finish. Great work

OMG!!!! I AM STUDYING FOR MY FIRST PROJECT AND AFTER TWO DAYS OF SEARCHING, YOU ANSWERED ALL THE FRUSTRATIONS/FEAR I WAS HAVING INCLUDING THE EXOPY RIVER WHICH IS SOMETHING I WANT I WANT TO DO ALSO. DO YOU HAVE A VIDEO ON HOW TO DO THE RIVER? TOOOOOO PRETTY!!! LADY HAYNES. OH BY THE WAY, THIS IS ALSO MY FIRST RU-vid COMMENT🤣

To start with, there is no comparison with the Rubio monocoat oil plus 2C comp. A and comp. B. and Odie's wax. The former is a 2 component and the latter a 1 component. That said the 2 comp. will always beat the 1 comp. plain and simple. If the 2 comp. is somehow not as good as the 1 comp. you can rest assured that the 2 comp/ is an inferior material. Sooo, yes using too much material with not enough cure time between coats is an issue by the person putting it on and not the material but there is more to this product than just any other material. Just because it’s dry to the touch doesn't mean it’s ready for the next coat. Being a master journeyman in CRII painting, I have an extensive background in (re)finishing and homeowners almost always(no offense) get it wrong because they get the marketing confused with the directions given for application and that’s just what the marketing team would like, because you WILL end up buying more for whatever reason.. lol. The Odie’s directions for coating by the guy, James that created it, believe it or not, could be improved on! Lol. This material is unique in that it uses the heat by friction from the application to draw the materials down into the wood fibers initially. It’s important to know that this was a wood flooring product initially and that is how it is applied on floors with a buffer. That is what it was originally designed for. It’s all on their video’s with no fault by James it just fails to be considered/offered for other surfaces… lol. That said, it's easy to see the folly. 😀

Anybody else notice he said "now it's time for that second coat of Odie's"?

Looks absolutely beautiful!

The color and grain of that wood is amazing

Awesome explanation on how to use. Thanks!

You need to read the bodies oil application instruction and follow to the letter. It will out perform Rubio

Wow...beautiful table. One thing seems very clear. A well prepped, very high-end piece of wood, can make any product seem exceptional.

Countless layers of Odie's Oil? I have never applied more than two coats. Something isn't computing here. There's definitely a user error going on. Do some browsing of how others apply it, and how the manufacturer explains the process. I'm sure you'll change your mind.

Hi. Great looking table. What do you think of using rubio on a raised panel finished room? Not sure if it is red or white oak. Has a stain. Several coats of possibly shellac. Thank you.

Also the mic sounds amazing. Is it an xlr?

The Odie’s jar is supposed to cover 400 sq. ft.

Rubios is nuts because not a lot is needed. Also the accelerator isn't needed, just brings down cure time to 7 days vs ~ 30.

Acetone on epoxy ? My acetone eats epoxy like the sun melts Groenland. In seconds, the epoxy is kaput. How did you manage to save the epoxy ?

I've heard the wood cleaner is just mineral spirits.

What kind of stain did you use on your fence?

You mentioned the wood was from an order. Do you have more? It’s super nice and I was thinking it would make a killer desktop.

Rubio MONOCOAT .... a second coat is just waste of product. Rubio states the product does not bond to a previous coat. If you want an additional protection, use their metalizer on top of the first coat.

Blacktail woodworks buy the ceramic coating? I think it’s om8 are some name like that! Goes right over that finish and wow ! Then you leave it and drive a truck over it! He makes and sells tables all around the world! You can see him use that same finish!

If you want to Use acetone, polyurethane or any form of highly dangerous and cancergeous chemicals. Make sure you wear a mask with A1 filter, gloves, and long sleves. If you happen to have sawdust in the room. You need to use mask at all times in your workshop! not only when you apply. You dont see a lot of old woodworkers able to run a marathon these days. Thats what we want to change. Health is a lot more importaint than your piece of wood, but you actually dont have to compromise. Theres way better options than Odie's in the toxic free segment that actually penetrates and hardens the wood properly ;) Cheaper too.

Was just thinking about Odie's . Thank you. Wonderful table. Especially after redone finish

What color Rubio coat if any did u use?? Great vid! thanks for it!

Next time tead the instructions or watch some professionals apply Rubio. You did just about everything wrong. Improper cleaning, improper sanding, mixing too mich, not wiping off before buffing, applying a second coat. There's a reason they call it MONOcoat. Great product, poor technique. Rubio has some great videos, by the way.

It’s not an activator but an accelerator. You can use it without it, but it takes more time to cure.

Do you have a link to the clear plastic organizer that you’re using for sandpaper?

I was wondering about this comparison. Both of these finishes have their fans and both are bias. I went ahead and ordered the Rubio mono coat pure. It does seem the more durable of the two. Thanks for doing this comparison

So how durable or how hard is Rubio actually? I know practically ever woodworker is using it but it’s just wax correct? I’m still baffled at this concept.

Man you applied way too much odies… an 1/8th of that jar would have done that table.

Just wondering why you did a 4 to 1 ratio on the Rubio and not a 3 to 1?

I just spent $50 on my first jar of Odies just to see what the rage is about after using Rubio historically and I feel the same as you. I followed the application tutorial from the owner and its pretty meh. Odies is pretty good compared to a lot of finishes you may find at Home Depot or something but Rubio is smoother, looks better, dries harder, fills pores better, feels better and as you said will likely last longer. Odies is not even in the same league as Rubio in my opinion.

People who have trouble with odies haven't applied it properly

You only need one ounce for 25sqft with odies . A full jar on one table is insane should be like 10 tables. And scratching the table with your finger and it marking means you never removed all the oil. So clearly some mistakes were made during the application process . I feel odies is much better than Rubio and use it most of my projects. But all and all this isn’t a fair comparison video. And hope you give odies another chance and if you follow the directions to the letter I think you will be shocked with the results.

dude a hole jar 😂 I can do my hole house whit one jar you did your project wrong 😂 Odie’s is a natural product and Rubio is poison! Please dude don’t blame a beautiful product on your own fails, Odie’s is a amazing product ❤

Have you ever used syringes to measure out the Rubio?

What color of the rubio monocoat is this?

Good lord get to the content. Moving on.

13:02 you mean Rubio ;)

I highly recommend trying Vinnie's Oil. its cheaper, but better than odies oil in my opinion.

@odies has a whole tutorial for each finish style. I have an easier time applying odies than rubio. It's less delicate. Your prep work may not have been good enough to receive it and maybe you didn't buff off the excess in time. I would rather sand off odies than a poly finish.

Another reason not to use Odie's: the owner went on a rampage and basically called small garage based woodworkers losers and unworthy of his product.

Dude. So many things here. Agree with others that you didn't apply the Odies correctly. You didn't apply the Rubio correctly either. You aren't supposed to go above 150 grit at the very highest, for Rubio. 120 is what they recommend. You aren't supposed to sand the wood itself that smooth, you're closing off all of the pores. Your finish can't get into the wood. Nobody should follow any of the things this guy did. So many hacks passing themselves off as pro's these days, and youtube is making it worse.

Nice San Clemente footage :)

thought this was going to be a good comparison, sadly not I was hoping for. Not really a fair side by side.

Had to double back to this video to say you actually misused both products. The Odies would have been just fine if you used it correctly. It's durable enough for wood floors.

looks beautiful...

Why not wet sand it? ZERO dust.

You massively messed up applying the Odies

Meanwhile if you have captions on........ "now I'm ready for that second coat of booties," could we have people doing the captions that understand or passed English in school. However, captions online are still nowhere as bad as the garbage i get watching T.V.

jesus you used enough for 20 tables

lovely table 👍

Scratching my head why you don't just stain and poly it for durability?

acetone in the house over an unprotected wood floor ........DAMN cowboy !

Nice job. Beautiful table. I’m all about trying different finishes abs products than the stuff that’s constantly being pushed by RU-vidrs. I’m looking at Rubio’s black stain. Because it’s actually black and I’d prefer to use it rather than black paint for my project.

Entire jar? WTF?

Odies oil smells good... that's about all its good for.

Looks great but the process was more than a lot

DUH

Odies Oil applied wrong vs. Rubio Monocoat: Why I apply a product incorrectly then blame the product

massive user error here. jesus haha. an entire jar?? good lord man. what.

lol, the gloves lost me. u did odies all wrong. lol

You should use the products correctly before you start knocking them online., U way off my man.. Unreal that you used a whole jar in one project plenty mistakes you're making

Oh no, monkeypox wood, hopefully the woke police aren't into woodworking my friend.

200 lbs? That's nothing, jeez!

This is really cringe watching you teach people while doing all the wrong things at the same time

You applied odies incorrectly, removed it incorrectly as well. In testing odies performs actually better than Rubio. That being said, all oil/wax finishes provide very little surface protection other than water resistance. They are not film forming finishes, if want something for that.. are countless products that do vastly better. Also.. not pulling out oil with that solvent inbetween sanding, its just fine dust left. Water popping... only works on the final sanding where you go back with a high grit by hand and knock down the nibs. Power sander takes it too far down and defeats the point.