So by the numbers: I have less than $100 in pipe and concrete. I was able to get the totes for free. The tractors were borrowed. The drain rock was leftover from another job. It took me about 6 hours to do this project. Leech fields in this area dont last much more than 10 years. This system has been in a couple of years and is functioning just fine. If it fails after a few more years I believe I will still be money ahead. Let me know what you think: Thanks for watching!
UnitedStatesofBuild I was curious it be really cool to build a system coming off a travel trailer making the tank on the trailer you’re holding tank and somehow put together a leech line coming off of that thank you
PVC toilet flanges glued and screwed to the tank work great for connecting the 4" fill and perforated drain pipes. Also back filling with larger rock helps with drainage and evaporation. We have done similar things with 55 gal blue plastic drums. They work great. Thanks for the video!
I had a backhoe company for many years so installed many systems and I must say your's is the best I've seen. Plus I had a one person apt and only used a 55 gal drum, after 30 years the system is working great,Never had it pumped either, the key is a great drain field, I did it but I own a backhoe, hehe.
I enjoyed the video. I've installed septic systems for 17 years and two tanks in series are the way to go. Breaking down solids is not the way to go, keep your solids. the tanks in series are a great way to keep sediments from migrating to your drainfield. I would have used a cover material for the drainfield to keep small particles out of the rock system but I understand the wet ground in which case a weep area would have been my preference, preferably to low ground if available. I would fill my tanks with water right after a pump out to prevent collapse even with the concrete surrounding the tank. fun to watch.
I Did The Exact Same Thing In 2011 For A Log Cabin/Cottage I Built In The Bush Where My Sawmill, Woodworking, Fabricating/Welding Shops Are. It works flawlessly since installed. I live there now and it serves us all without any problems. It's easy to check with the lids that unscrew on the top of the tanks and it has not needed to be pumped yet, and not sure when it might need to be, but no time soon. Great Job Done Well.
Our cabin was build in 1952 and four fifty five gallon drums were buried and connected together as the septic tanks. They failed in 2007. That’s over five decades of use. Stainless drums may have lasted longer!
First time to see this, and it looks great. I've been putting in septic systems on development projects in Africa for the last 20+ years. For what it's worth to anyone, just remember that those ICU containers only hold 1,000 litres, (that's not much!) So if you're going to set up this type of septic for daily usage you would need to add more containers in the line. The problem is when the 'solids' fill up to the outflow and block or restrict it. I'd recommend a larger diameter through pipe to a second (or even third) container, allowing more space for 'solids' build up. When we build concrete/brick tanks by hand, we usually have one third for 'solids' and two thirds for liquids to settle. ( Sometimes 50/50). All systems need air (oxygen) for the decomposition process to occur, .......even a 3/4 inch vent pipe will do. We then outflow into a soak-away, ........usually a big hole with large rocks in it. Overflow waste spills onto the rocks and in the presence of air, micro organisms growing on the rocks help break down any pathogens still in the outflow. Lastly, we always divert the shower and kitchen grey water around the septic and directly into the soak-away. This is so that any chemicals or detergents used do not adversely affect the beneficial microbes doing the job of decomposing the waste.
My uncle had a patent on a septic system that pumped air into the the tank. The water coming out at the was very clear. If I remember correctly it was drinkable at that point.
Drain rock is round rock. Anything but round rock allows for binding and in short time no liquid can make it's way through. Otherwise a good system. The local health depts make septic systems far more complicated then they need to be, they are in fact very simple
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 we have a seepage pit on our older home and it’s been no issues. I agree with most of the comments about we make things more complicated. Your system looks easy and functional.
I had thought of the remnant carpet as well for several different projects...great job on wrapping the units before you set them in ground! Thank you for posting your video!
Thank you so much for this video. I am building mine exactly like you did but swapping carpet for tarps. I have the mini-excavator reserved for next week-end. This helped me immensely and I appreciate very much!
Thanks for the video, especially the diagram of how you connected the two tanks. I think I would have skipped the carpet just seems like something that will rot and cause more problems than it helps. For all you septic police, he already said this is not where he lives, it's like a deer camp or something. You people need to get a grip, I know lots of people who have 55 gallon barrel systems at deer camp that have been there for 10 years.
Yes, Im sure the carpet rotted within the first few weeks. It was just to keep the backfill from caving in the sides while the dry concrete mixture had time to hydrate and cure. Thanks for watching!
I once seen someone build on by hand, block, and like rubber liner paint it was two or three chambers and leach field.. I was impressed and it's way cheaper.
We have a 40acre farm we’re going to do family reunions at definitely going to do a few of these,great video! How often do you add microbes to dissolve solids?
Thank you so much FOR YOUR KNOWLEDGE .I JUST BOUGHT 5 ACRES of land in MO.and my purpose is to be totally off grid .And the one main thing that was stumbling me the most is how are we guna do water an sewer etc etc And I sumbled on your video and I was so happy .THANK YOU SO MUCH Can you please tell me what you did for electrity?? I bought a 3500 generator but I know that will get costly on gas and I need to do solar Can you please help advice me on anything I NEED ALL HELP I CAN GET ON OFF GRID LIVING.AGAIN THANK YOU AN GOD BLESS YOU AN FAMILY.OH in case you wondering We will be living 100 percent on land .We have hardly any type restrictions out there so .Should be pretty laid back on much of everything
Great job. Good ideas! I have worked professionally on septic systems - and you did do it right! I would be careful about the volume you ask it to handle .... you could have a separate solution for grey water and that would greatly increase your system's longevity - and I would also be sure to reduce the grease that goes down the drain. Anyway - great job. I hope it lasts you a lifetime!
hi jedmarum, hope you see this question . Would this work in a cold climate using these plastic tanks ? I am not sure where this is being filmed. thanks so much I loved the video too !
I would research how deep your frost line gets. I would think it would be ok if it was below the frost line BUT as I said in the video: I am not a septic expert. Thanks for watching!!
Great video man! Since I've bought my property, this is the one system that I'm just not sure about. Out house, composting toilet or DIY septic. This video perked my ears up for sure!
This system is working flawlessly after a year of intermittent use. For the small amount of dollars I have invested I couldnt be happier. Thanks for watching!
*Perforated drainage pipes might have been best to be covered with medium sized rocks as the first layer, then gravel as second layer, and fine road base on top. Doing it this way may allow constant flow of drainage and avoid fine materials blocking the perforation on the pipes resulting in clogging up the drainage pipe over time. But if that works, then algud!!!*
Hey buddy how far of the bottom of the totes did you connect your leech lines? I am planning on building one just like this. Also what size pipe did you connect the totes with and was it connected in the middle or bottom of the totes? Thanks a lot!
I also planned to use those tanks. I know they are not as thick or strong as the plastic tanks that are specifically made for sewage so decided to add some concrete. Great minds think alike bro. Thumbs up
Mine are holding up great, I am really pleased with the performance. I think its important to keep fluid inside also to counteract the force of the earth pushing in. Good luck man!!
Great info. One thing you left out is the dip tube going into tank and the one coming out should 90 down about halfway into tank to keep "floaters" from blocking pipe. Btw... For hundreds of years people have bén using similar systems for septic tanks.
Awesome this is my favorite to install into the ground video. I do have a favorite how the totes were put together. Im so taking advice and methods from both videos
well, yesterday I followed your video, without the earth moving machinery of course and the concrete and and and, well, not I have a flushing system, trying to organise a second flow bin for the overflow. kudos to you
How would you like to be the guy that gets to fix that when it fails? If you use those for forms and concrete over and around them would be a good tank.
Hi just a quick question would this system be ok for one person of course I'll have visitors and how often would it have to be emptied and would a commercial company do that..... Something else I've thought of if treated could the waste be pumped out yourself (me)👍and used safely on the land as fertilizer.....
Mine is still working perfectly. Its a few years old at this point but only gets used intermittently, a few days a month by 3-4 people at a time. I haven't had to pump it out yet. There are places (where legal) that use waste from porta-johns to fertilize crops like alfalfa. In the olden days they just dug a pit and filled it in when it was full 😲.
Great work and you used the word I love that begins with "F:".....FREE! GE silicone 2 would have helped to act as a seal or glue for the pvc after using some rough sandpaper to give some adhesion. Not being critical just an alternative. Yes we all love building codes. LMAO
Geez, I think I built my entire 16x24 cabin for less than $20k. I pulled some strings, it was ALL DIY and I was fairly resourceful acquiring material but Wow, $20k just to flush the toilet......? Yikes
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 Yeah, the State decides what kind of system you need and now many are mound systems. I know it's $20,000 because that's what my brother just paid. In 1972, my Dad built his 3 bedroom house with a basement for $20K, that's including electric and septic and the driveway. In fiat currency today, he could get close to $300,000. on the 3.5 acres it sits on.
Excellent DIY - I learned a lot. Question: After a few years or so when the solids have built up, how do you intend to vacuum the sludge? I have been researching and am just curious to know the method you have thought about implementing when the time comes. Thanks!
Are you describing the soil in Florida? I live in Florida and this sounds like a great solution for an off-grid storage container house. Am I missing something or do you think this may be a viable solution that I should pursue attempting? Thanks!
This system has been performing perfectly for me. Now keep in mind its not my primary residence. This location is only used a couple times per month. As far as the boggy soil the carpet-wrap and prefilling the tanks with water helped alleviate the initial pressure of the soil pushing inward. Once the concrete settled in that helps in the long run. The beauty of this system is the minimal cost and readily available materials. Good luck!!
Yes, always use septic-safe cleaning products. The toilet empties into this system. Be sure to empty the shower and sinks into your system as well as the toilet. Emptying just solid waste will create too harsh of an environment for the good bacteria to thrive in. The sink and shower water will keep the system healthy and flowing correctly.
Yes, it is still functioning just fine. It has only seen intermittent use as this is not a permanent residence. That said, the toilet flushes and the shower drains every time! Last time we were there I popped the lids and checked the inside of the tanks....and it appeared as healthy as a septic tank can appear😝 thanks for watching
@@TheCls63 There is a septic company that comes out and services the surrounding area, Id probably just have them vacuum the tank. There hasnt been a need yet...
If you live were you have winters you must be under the frost line 4 feet from the top of the tank , for what you had you saved a lot of $$$ that way ,well done for a fist try
Job well done sir thank you. How did you fix the pipes between both containers. With no access to the inside. I'm looking to do the same setup but that was my only question. Thank you again
Hey Eric. Hopefully they dont need to be fixed. What scenario are you imagining? This system could easily be pumped and hosed out if it clogs. If it breaks I'd probably fix it the same as if a poly tank broke. Thanks for watching!
If the tank is below your grounds frostline it shouldn't be a problem. Also, constant daily use keeps adding the 'Fuel' to the bacteria to eat and generate heat in the tank. If both aren't possible, put about a 12" layer of mulch on the ground above it, makes a thermal blanket for it...
Please, What did you use to stabilize and seal the connecting pipe between the 2 tanks? I am going to make a septic system for my off grid RV using your video as a reference. Thank you for uploading.
Butyl tape inside and out (you need to have flexible arms). Then packed wet concrete around it when I set the tanks. Also be sure to put downfacing 45 degree elbows on the connecting pipes to prevent clogging. If I hadnt already built the tanks I could've done a more detailed tour. Thanks for watching!
Thank you for your response. How far from the top of the tank did you make the holes for the pass through (connecting) pipe? And what diameter pipe please?
SORRY I missed your question. Your septic will likely form a thin layer of buoyant materials in the first tank, aim to have the connecting pipe below this floating layer. (you dont want it transferring to the second tank and into the lines, potentially clogging them) Also add a 45* down-turned elbow on both ends to prevent clogging. I believe my diameter was in the 8" range if my memory serves me correctly. It fit nicely through the metal cage.
I’d sure be afraid to use CONCRETE here in the North. The Ground heaves from the frost. The Concrete would go through the side of that tank after one season.
experts I've talked to say get your tanks pumped out every 2-3 years. do you plan on doing this and if so when you built your deck on top did you make it accessible?
Kevin Covert, I lived in a trailer house with a homebuilt septic system for over 20 years and it never needed pumped. The only time the owner needed to dig it up was when the metal barrel he used rusted through. He finally put in a plastic barrel and hasn't messed with it since and that was over 20 years ago. What I'm getting at is if done properly you will never have to have it pumped out. The bacteria will do it's job of eatting the waste.
The only thing I would say that might have been a thought to add...a biodigestor pipe...you'd have some gas to recover for use. Great job - good enough to get the job done!
I sat the tanks on a level surface carefully and accurately marked out the connecting holes Drilled them out for a tight fit using a hole saw slide totes together and tightly wire the cages together Through the top opening slide a length of PVC through both the holes Caulk or seal around the pipes (a hand tube of caulk may be easiest) Add a TEE to each side of the pipe (I used 45*s but have been told on here that TEEs are better) The above steps I did in my driveway, before I headed to the cabin. It took about a half an hour. It helps if you are limber or have a helper that is. Once the tank was installed I located the inlet and outlets according to the building requirements. Going off memory the outlet needs to be 2/3 or so up (you may want to double check that). To seal all these connections on the outside of the totes I poured concrete around them. Hope that helps
My second liquid tank will be a55 gallon drum // I can un screw the top as months and years go by..with a flash light see it ever gets full .. I willonly purchase one 10 foot pipe with holes in it for drainage ..by looking at my 3 different drain tanks off 10 feet in 3 differtn direction..they after 22 years are still dry inside
OK, I am just starting to research stuff like this for my tiny house. This seems like overkill. I just want to take a dump inside the house and have to go away. Couldn't this system be scaled down to work for one person using tops 15 gallons per day?
Really well. The tanks are holding up great. The plumbing is flowing the same as new and the fluid level is always consistent. Im very pleased with the performance.
@@unitedstatesofbuild4915 That is good to hear. I have a 40 yo leach field that has been replaces once. It needs to be replaced a second time. I am going to DIY it. I lready need to pay for an engineer saya the state.
Good job, but you made me laugh advising us to follow. Code. Lol. OK then you say to, just do as you say, not as you do, NP I got it!, wink, wink, it's a perfect system for an off grid, or a cottage, I may have went 4 weepimg tiles myself, so the water dispersed faster, as you mentioned soggy soil, and I may have run a 5 or 6 degree to speed run away, but all in all, beats and outhouse
I have heard guys say the fastest way to age your septic system is with modern laundry detergent. I have a buddy that uses a dedicated system for laundry and it seems to work really well.
A barrel and 36 ft line has been working for me since 04 been meaning to upgrade to system like yours but haven't needed to yet. I have gravel and sandy soil though.
Maybe someone here who knows more about septic systems would know better? Im sure it depends greatly on soil composition. This system is servicing a single bath right now under intermittent use.
This is the video I've been looking for! Thanks for positing. I'm looking to DIY a rain harvesting system. Being in Europe, garden space is hard to come by so an underground system is the way to go. Any thoughts or advice you can impart?
You could have used slag cement. Also you should have used tees on the outlets and and effluent filter on the final tank. You didn’t mention how you calculated the tank sizes or leach field size. Typically a 3 or less bed room house would take a minimum of 1000 Gal. Total in tank size while a 5 bedrooom is going to need about 1500 G. The leach field size in sq feet is determined by the percolation rate and about half the total tank size as the number of gallons per day. You can look at various state or local codes if your area doesn’t have that in their codes.
Excellent !! Thanks for the instructional. I assume it all has been working well since you completed it ! Saving this so I can do the same. Much appreciated! Wulfy
Love this idea! Moving off grid soon. Can I ask what do you fill the tanks with? Certain % water than just go and do your business? And do you go to more bio degradable toilet paper.. Thanks in advance
I just pre-filled them with tap water. this helps alleviate the pressure from refilling and compacting the hole and also prevents them from floating in a high-water event. I use septic-safe toilet paper. Thanks for watching!
I havent had a problem yet. Unless the septic guy really loves to stick his head inside tanks I dont anticipate having much problem. Thanks for the comments!
Christopher Hayes my sister is has a gravity feed septic system installed and county water / electric. Yes it does happen, she is about 3 miles outside of town
Most small towns and villages only have homes that run off of septic systems and private water wells. Not every town in North America has its own sewage system.
Oh, and I cant take much of the design credit on this one, I have a few guys who've been there and done and happen to be very good friends. In fact, they're exactly the kind of guys that everyone wants to have as a good friend.... I will take credit for being the resourceful cheapskate though.... :)
I wasnt sure either.... I was thinking he was addressing abrasion by the rocks against the poly. Thats a valid concern, but probably not for a very, very long time..... The cement being too heavy is moot. Cement should be viewed as structural, a net positive not negative. As far as a system update I have been using it every weekend for the last 2 months with ZER0 issues. Also, I have since added the porch over the tanks. Thanks
I have doubts about a double tank system. Seems to me that only the first tank will effectively break down solids, and the 2nd tank will mostly just pass water. Ive seen other peope on RU-vid make the same mistake. Im no expert, but I have installed a couple septic systems over the years.
What you said is exactly the way its supposed to happen. First tank breaks down solids, second tank passes grey water. Having a divided system is pretty standard. All the manufactured tanks should have a divider inside. Its necessary to prevent solids from getting into the leech lines. The solids flow into the first tank, get broken down by bacteria, toilet paper settles to the bottom. The grey water flows into the second tank and then out to the leech field. This design ensures that the leech field doesnt get clogged up with solids. Did you install the systems for friends?
