Oil fired boiler Tankless coil gasket leak- DIY replaced cover and gasket 

good luck with it. I was nervous for nothing. My main concern was breaking the bolts and they weren't even very tight. Just take your time with that one part and it should go smoothly. Mine's been fine ever since. Thanks for watching and commenting

Appreciate that, i liked that you mentioned about isolating the boiler when draining. My peerless was set up to be able to isolate as well. Aside from about 4 foot of water line above the purge valve it should be a pretty easy purging. Cheers sir

My suggestion is to do it when it’s warm out, just in case a bolt head sheers off and you have to re tap, you’ve got time. A small leak isn’t an issue, as long as it’s small and you keep an eye on the pressure and add water if you need. Thanks for the comment!

@@Samlol23_drrich Thanks for the tip! I have a wood stove so I basically just use it for hot water but you're right, better to do it in Spring/Summer.

@@WeatherNut27 here you go. He is doing a tankless coil on a 99 Burnham. This guy is great. Any plumbing I need to do, I watch his vids. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qu5n8vXhxpk.html

@@Samlol23_drrich Steve is the man! Love that guy. Been a subscriber since he had just 23k 2 yrs ago. Religiously watch his daily videos. :-)

@@WeatherNut27 that makes 2 of us. I've learned a lot from watching his vids.

Glad I could help. Thanks for the nice comment!

The more I do to that boiler the less I worry. Dont want to jinx myself but its been pretty foolproof

So it was a Hail Mary pass for me. Due to the age and condition nobody would touch it. Don’t blame them. So the reason I said I could have done it without removing the aquastat was because the wires leading to it were long enough in my case to pull the tankless around it even with the wires still in place. I didn’t realize that until I was almost done. But that’s my system as wired. You may need to take the aquastat off. It’s pretty easy. Just a couple of wires. Just make note of where they go back. As for the pipe dope plus Teflon tape- I watch a lot of pros do this cause I enjoy it. Especially Steve Lavimoniere. If you want expert plumbing and HVAC vids watch his. He’s old school and always uses Teflon tape and pipe dope together. So that’s what I do also. So far no leaks, ever and I’ve worked on all parts of my heat and AC. Except for my couple of videos on dentistry that nobody really cares about, I’m no expert in most other stuff I do. My goal is to make “another” repair video showing how a non expert can get the job done. The boiler hasn’t leaked since I replaced the cover and gasket. I ran a new zone to my garage and installed a modine heater, replaced all the zone valves, installed a kick heater in a bathroom, replumbed my pressure tank, and recharged my refrigerator and central AC units after getting a universal 608 certification. Thanks for commenting and watching. I do appreciate any and all feedback. Glad it helped in some way. You wanna see a pro do the job here it is. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Qu5n8vXhxpk.htmlsi=kxMxBPomNYZ0ulEu

@@Samlol23_drrich Good job. Don't listen to people with negative comments, thanks.

Thanks very much. Next I've gotta replace the firebox liner. In the summer. Hope my luck doesn't run out.

Im not sure if I had to, but I did. Im not in the business, but I think that when you close the supply and return in each zone, you are locking water only in each loop with no air. But then once you refill the boiler and open the zone valves, I was worried that I would introduce air into the Zones, so I did bleed them. Not sure if it was totally necessary. Probably could have just opened one zone, bled the boiler and that zone until it was perfect with no air, then open the rest of the zones. Since the hoses were already there, and I was already doing it, I figured an extra few minutes just to make sure were well worth it. Good luck and thanks for the comment!

I would be happy to help, but I’m not quite sure I understand your question. My suggestion would be to either take a photo or video of the system before you remove anything, and then put it back exactly the same as it was before. I assume the gasket is what is leaking, since you are replacing it. You didn’t mention that you were replacing the coil so I assume you are not. The only reason I replaced the plate and coil is that they weren’t being used any more. For my system, the aquastat controls just the boiler, and my indirect water heater has its own aquastat. In your setup, where the domestic hot water flows through the coil, I believe there should be only one aquastat, and then there is usually a mixing valve after the hot water comes out of the boiler at whatever it’s set to (let’s say 180 degrees) the mixing or tempering valve adds domestic cold water in with that 180 degree hot water in order to make the domestic hot a safe temperature at your faucet. Just so happens my aquastat is in the middle of the plate, many like yours aren’t. Hope that helps, but I’m not in the business. I suggest you go to a few vids from either Steve lavoniere or the pipe doctor who do this for a living and put out excellent videos of peoples systems where you can maybe find the same system as you have to see how it’s set up. Hope that helped and good luck. I expect you have this system s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/catsy.782/AP-U+IO.pdf. Here. I found you a video that will hopefully explain and help. Watch it. It’s awesome. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bhs0CQtS-U4.html

@@Samlol23_drrich Wow, thanks for such a quick response! I’ll check out that video, I guess as long as the leak is fixed, I can hook the pipes back as they were. I just thought why not separate since we have plenty of domestic hot water for several months….spring through early fall when burner is shut down. Thanks again

No wonder I haven’t had hot water since then! Thank you !! But seriously, the coil had been disabled prior to us buying the house. The water lines were cut just outside the boiler. In its place is a tankless heater that makes our hot water. It’s a separate zone on our boiler and has its own aquastat and circulating pump. The coil wasn’t bothering anyone sitting there, but since there was a leak from the gasket, I figured I would install a blank plate in its place, which is what I did. 0:34 You don’t need to have a tankless coil in the boiler if you aren’t using the boiler directly to produce domestic hot water. Thanks for the comment.

It’s not that old! I don’t know how much water exactly it holds, but hopefully you have gate valves on the supply and return piping you can shut off so you’re not draining down the whole house. I would estimate ten gallons- like two Home Depot buckets. However, I’m not sure of if it’s included in the video, but I thought it was done draining because the water stopped flowing out. I left the boiler drain opened, and as I removed the bolts from the tankless and air was able to get into the boiler, a significant amount of water then came out. Apparently it was air locked, like turning a bottle upside down quickly. So unless you have other types of air vents you can open, expect more water to come out once you open the cover up. Last bit of advice, - it seems like your tankless isn’t in use. Either way you are going to have to pull it all the way out in order to get the new gasket on. You will need to feed it over the tankless coil from the back and then replace the tankless. If it’s still connected in the front it will be difficult to remove unless you cut and resolder the copper. Good luck. Any more questions, feel free.

@@Samlol23_drrich I plan on cutting the coil off and plugging the holes. Basically making my own blank plate.

@slipperyjohnson7016 ​ inside? Then youre not going to know whetber youve got a leak until u fill the boiler and put everything back together.

@@MRGTi5 then it’s just a little dripping, leave it until the spring or summer of next year, so just in case, you’ve got the time to either drill em out or weld to the broken bolts. I was ready with both options just in case. Good luck.

@@Samlol23_drrich yes, I have no experience with welding but I'm anticipating having to drill. hopefully I'm spared

@@MRGTi5 good luck. Let me know how it goes. Here’s a video I always refer back to. Maybe it will help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-x_ky5JVxtqU.htmlsi=Cxke3v_vHDIbjf1d I’m no welder either but I bought a $100 harbor freight special just in case, and now I have it even though it wasn’t needed. Better than having to call someone.

Thanks! It was quite easy but a couple of things; don't force the bolts. I learned that the hard way when doing my brake caliper bolts. Spray them for a day before every few hours. Hit them hard with a steel hammer a few times and after you break each one free even turning it slightly, spray the threads and screw it back in then back out. Watch a few videos on removing very tight bolts first. Next, after you drain down the boiler, there will be some residual water still in the boiler that will be released when air gets into the boiler from loosening the bolts. Be ready for it by keeping a hose on the drain. That's all I can think of at the moment other than carefully scraping the old gasket so you don't ruin the surface it sits against. Other than that good luck.

I would think so, although its just a rubber gasket. Its thick though. Unless they let the RTV really set for like an hour then torque the bolts, its probably a lot thinner than the oem part. In retrospect, the small leak i had was really a non issue. As long as its very slow, and you have an auto fill or monitor the water level its probably fine. They do sell just the gasket. Supply house has them

@@Samlol23_drrich mine was a slow leak also. I see a regulator with a little handle on it is that an auto feed or manual?

@@MattyMCcRollin17z that should be an auto feed.

Yes. That’s just what I did since I had a leak. Mine was already disconnected (the copper was cut) and an indirect fired water heater already installed.

@@Samlol23_drrich there’s the answer I was looking for. Was so confused on why a coil was not put back in. So if I understand correctly, boiler heats water up and feeds to a tank?

​@@nickbass4022​@nickbass4022 two ways to heat domestic (household) hot water with a boiler. First is a tankless coil. Its located inside the boiler and looks like a slinky of tubing. The hot water flows through the really hot boiler and heats it up. No reservoir. Mine had already been disconnected cause i think a better solution is what the prior owner put in; an indirect fired tank. So its another zone. It holds 50 or more gallons and around the outside is a copper coil of copper tubing. There is a separate circulator and an aquastat (thermometer). So you set a temp for the water and the aquastat calls for the boiler to kick on that circulates water from the boiler around but separate from the stored water. When you need to use the stored water it gets replenished. Hope that helped

Maybe scrape and then sand both sides that the gasket press against- on both the boiler and plate. As I recall it was a pretty thick gasket. If that doesn't work, I would probably go to an automotive supply store and get some high temp gasket maker silicone and use that in addition to the gasket you are using now. Just follow the instructions. I think you put out a thick bead and let is get semi cured before tightening. Good luck!

I guess the video didn't do it justice because the bolts were extremely rusty. I would say it took less than two hours, but two hours is a close guess. Before I even attempted this, I bought two things; a broken bolt remover (in case the head snapped off a bolt) and a set of rounded bolt removers to grab the bolt if I rounded it over. My service guy told me if the head snapped off on my peerless, the way its made you can just grab the broken stem with vicelocks after removing the plate. From what I understand, no service person is gonna touch that type of job cause there is a high chance of running into trouble. Anyway, good luck. If I could be of further help, just let me know

Oh, and take a wire brush to the rusty bolts before spraying them. All the crap will flake off first

It also depends on how quickly/comfortable you are doing things like draining the boiler/ closing the zone valves, refilling and bleeding the air out. If you can do that quickly and no bolts snap, it's fairly quick. Also, get a good scraper for the old gasket against the boiler. That takes some time to make a good surface that won't leak.

@@Samlol23_drrich Thank you so much for your response. I greatly appreciate it. The thing that I’m actually hesitating on is draining the boiler. I’ve never had to do that before. Been trying to find other videos here on youtube, but can’t seem to find one. I have a buddy whose uncle services boilers. I might get him over here to run me through that process, then go forward with switching out the plate and gasket myself. Seems straightforward enough.

@@eyespy3001 surprised there aren't many vids on draining the boiler. The harder part is purging the air when refilling. Draining is just a matter of closing everything, especially water inlet after cutting power then opening the bottom drain with a hose attached to outside or a sump. Good luck anyway

So we bought the house and I guess the prior owners weren't getting enough hot water from the tankless coil because the copper piping leading to and from it were cut and in its place there is an indirect fired water heater. Its a separate zone with its own circulator. So the tankless was basically sitting there disconnected and I left it that way until a couple of winters ago I heard what sounded like water hitting a hot frying pan dripping. After looking I realized I had a leak from the gasket around the tankless. Well since I wasn't using it, I decided to remove it and replace it with a solid plate. Which is what I did. I tossed it in the trash and replaced the gasket and bolts and put in a solid cover. Watch 0:25 to about 1:00. Its been fine ever since. No leak. If I were replacing it, would have been the same job except for desoldering copper going into the old coil and attaching the new coil and soldering in the domestic hot. Thanks for watching

@@Samlol23_drrich Thank you for the quick reply. I probably don't have a coil either because my set up looks identical to yours.

@@jodeci888 you might just need a gasket they sell them for about $10 I believe. If there isn’t a coil in there you can just remove the plate and put on the gasket. With a coil in the way, a gasket is a bigger job. Edit. Nothing is $10 anymore with the current inflation www.supplyhouse.com/Peerless-51800-Gasket-Round-Plate

@@Samlol23_drrich : I actually already bought the plate, gasket and bolt set. Maybe I won't next time. EVERYTHING is going up but OUR pay. 😉

@@jodeci888 you can say that again! Good luck. Start spraying the bolts a couple of days in advance and remove them carefully. That was my biggest worry. Having to drill out and retap one of those.

You’re probably right but I think SS is much softer. As long as I didn’t break one off…… the guy who services my system told me not to worry- if a head snaps off it’s easy to grab with vice grips. Just glad I didn’t have to test his theory. Thanks for commenting!

could you explain to me why its happening so I have something to tell her??

So you have a hot water tank that serves the water (an indirect fired water tank),on its own zone? If its a slow drip, its not gonna do any major harm as long as its slow and you make sure to keep the water filled so it stays around 14-20 psi in the pipes. Let me know

Understand I'm not in the business, I'm a homeowner so take what I'm saying for what it is. Also, you never know- be really careful. But in my experience, after doing the job, and replacing the firebox, I was worried for nothing. Most likely you can gently tighten down the bolts, a little at a time in a star pattern and hopefully that stops the drip until the spring when you can replace at least the gasket. If your boiler is old like mine is, and you call someone,.expect them to want to replace the whole boiler. Once they put a tool to the boiler its their responsibility and most guys aren't gonna want to touch old and leaking. It was an easy job, I just would wait until you don't need heat. Thats what I did. I tightened the bolts, that stopped the drip and I did the job in the warmer weather.

@@Kuhlyedascope69 its just a rubber gasket that is leaking. The boiler is filled with hot water. Its a small leak. Over time the rubber gets brittle

@@Kuhlyedascope69 So how did you make out?