I've been using an Old Hickory 14" butcher knife as a machete for years, and it's in the best shape of all the machetes I own--never had so much as a nick in the edge. I'd use any Old Hickory knife for bushcraft before any piece of stainless steel on the market.
I bought one of them for around $9.00 and turned it into a Kephart style knife. I removed the scales and epoxied them on. I textured the handle and made a thumb and index finger groove. I also made a nice sheath for it. I keep it in my truck.
I saw that and immediately opened my kitchen utensil drawer. I see that a knife that I bought for twenty-five cents at a tag sale is an old Ontario Hickory knife. Though it says Ontario Knife It looks like the first one.
Good dollar value. And carbon steel sharpens easy. I like the classic wooden handle knives from a dual perspective. I like their look and some, if not most, do a very decent job. Knives are a funny thing, but people are a lot funnier. Use a knife long enough and you will be told by your hand what it likes. Big difference between minutes and hours. Commercial kitchen and butcher cutlery is a fine example of purpose driven design. Sport knives are not always as great as the makers and sellers would want you to believe. Use enough different knives over the years and your brain will tell you a few things about features and blade geometry that works well too. And you will get real opinionated and skeptical about wild artistic concept blade designs. There are some knives that may initially look odd, but are special application geometry that has actually stood the test of time for a specific task. If you have ever used one for their task, you will understand immediately.
I spent my teen years trucking through the woods with an Old Hickory butcher knife, I abused it to no end, threw it into trees, made a spear out of it, chopped everything in sight and it never once failed me. It even survived being tossed into trees with a 6 foot spear handle attached. I don't know what it is about Old Hickory knives that makes them so reliable but I ended up with 2 of them. I still have them, though they seldom get the same level of abuse they used to.
I never understood why everyone on RU-vid thinks a knife should scrape a ferro rod. First off it's dangerous and not easy to control. (especially when your on your knees trying not to knock over your woodpile) Anyway my point every ferro rod I've ever got has a striker. The other crazy one is the bow drill divot. That makes no sense. Just seems like a easy way to break your handle or get cut. (depending on sheath) Sorry for the rants. I love both knifes. Not a fan of the sheath. I'm lefthanded. My other complaint is the handle could use a 3pins. The best thing is to remove the handle and glue it. These are great knives but the handle will come loose using it outdoors. My other fix is hockey tape. It's great unless you use your knife for fishing and game prep. Don't want the cloth tape to hold bacteria. Yet for outdoor woodwork the tape is great. Have a good one Sorry for the long comment I'm waiting for coffee only one up. Lol
@@richardhenry1969 you must have the brain of a two year old. Your jokes and what you think about shows how small your thinking is. Can’t take any criticism. You’re an amateur in woodmanship and in life. Bye little man child.
sheath is made in China I just bought one of these to throw in my truck it's a pretty solid knife honestly for the price point. Also, if you're into bush crafting, I would pick a Morankiv over this. I have a basic 546 (S) and love it. I use it to clear out my fence line and anything else you can think of and it was only 12ish dollars for a stainless knife. But it is way shorter of a blade.
I have the OH outdoors mini fillet and these Chinese made sheaths they come with are pretty crappy in my experience. They should have just sourced a better sheath from Mexico for the retail price, or made an even better sheath here and raised the price a little bit. In my case I make sheaths myself so I'd rather have payed less for no sheath.
Thanks for showing - you missed to mention, that they put on a completely different grind. The primary bevel goes almost half way up the blade, this makes the blade weaker. Would have been smart to make it a little thicker. Reducing the lenght to 5,5" is a good thing though, I never felt the need to go longer, except for a machete in the jungle. Stay safe and take care
After the first run of hunting knives they changed the steel from 1095 to an unmarked carbon steel that a representative claimed to be 1075. I had plans to buy one until I heard about the steel switch.
@@daveburklund2295 1075 is a great steel. A normal person can't tell the difference between 1075 an 1095 an all 10 series steels are easy to sharpen which is much more important than then anything in my book.
@@richardhenry1969 Agreed. I like old school 1075 and 1095 high carbon steels for my knives. I really can't tell the difference between those two on the knives I have.
I have used them in the kitchen for years and they hold an edge as well as any kitchen knife. However, being carbon steel oxidation (rusting) will affect the sharpened edge quickly and that will require more frequent sharpening. Acidic and salty foods can dull the edge quickly, but leaving them in water to soak is even worse. I clean and very lightly oil (olive oil) my carbon steel kitchen knives after use and they keep an edge for a long time.
love the knife, don't really care for the sheaths they came up with.. but the Ka-Bar Short sheaths available on Amazon work great for these new hunters!
