I bought an old Hornby R758 Class 35 "Hymek" Diesel Loco from ebay. Motor needed a complete overhaul but apart from that it's a nice example of this old model.
Great video. Through watching it I've also serviced my Hymek with the same motor. A fiddly thing to do, but now it works beautifully. I've also serviced a Hornby Ringfield and a Lima Ringfield after watching your videos and all the engines are running well again. Thank you.
Got a couple of those Hymeks now. Great looking locos - of course I'm biased as my first proper train set was the Tri-ang big Big Train Blue Flyer from my grandfather. Spent hours in their front room on the floor running that thing. Must have got in my blood I think! Recently got one of mine running gain after a long period of neglect. The motor noise is so distinctive!
Still one of the prettiest diesels from the time and I had the green version of this as a boy, I still remember picking it out in Scotch Corner in Kilmarnock just on looks. Although my layout will be set in Scotland I still plan to have a Hymek cos they are nice, ditto the Class 31s which are probably my favourite diesels of all despite never having ran around here.
Recently got a “Mint” one of these in Green, ran like a Rolls Royce Straight from the box. Will be able to reference this tho when she needs a service. Great Tutorial . Many thanks Bill 🙏🏻
Thank you very much for this very explicit servicing video, I just bought one second hand (obviously) from KESR Tenterden museum for my dad. Sadly it is a very grumpy machine so I will follow thoroughly your video wishing for an happy ending!
Interesting video - thanks. I had one of these new as a boy in the late 60s or early 70s and from new it ran like crap. I can remember the disappointment to this day. So well done getting that thing to work! Still got a soft spot for Hymeks though.
ooooh now you say it i remember the black and white tv when i was a kid went fuzzy when i ran the older triang trains :D With reference to the capacitors :p
Have a question for you Bill. If the wheels have nylon gears, can they go in the cleaning fluid? Love these instruction videos. You have single handedly been instrumental in rekindling my interest in 00 gauge railways.
great ,informative footage- BUT I, personally would never use grease on wheels (fantastic for use on the gear,s and teeth !!) or armature- bearings !! these metal bearings are designed to be slightly porous as to allow a tiny amount of the appropriate oil to "soak" into the metal - I would have thought that grease would have caused to much "drag " on the motor and wheels ?? also that may be the reason its quite a noisy runner ?? I would recommend a light, thin, -plastic compatible oil , maybe "Singer sowing machine oil " or "Peco " lube ??
O.K. this is getting scary now. I've watched three of these in a row and every model has been the exact same one I had as a kid. The R350 mallard, The R751 class 37 Co-Co diesel and now this one. If the next video is my R858 Southern M7 I'll be properly freaked out. lol
@@oobill lol. Actually your videos have been very helpful. I'm just getting back into the hobby and my old locos have been in storage for some years. I'd given them a quick service and run them in, but they're still a bit noisy and juddery for my liking, especially when I compare them to a couple of new ones I've just bought, so you've given me some useful insights in to what could improve their performance.
Ive found that when taking the body off these that I have used normal standard business cards next to where the clips are , ie lever the body off the chassis and then if not big enough to get the whole body away from the clips then use two business cards on top of each other where each retaining clip is. They are a good looking engine arent they but are a tad loud but also adds to the sound of them. Anyhoo you probly already know this. Also what is the cleaning solution you use ie brand and name for the axles bearings and brushes ansd springs etc called please. Cheers from John in Australia.
Hello very good work, that it is the product you use. Thanks in advance. Bonjour très bon travail, qu'elle est le produit que vous utiliser. Merci d'avance
recently got one of these and it needs a service as youve done to yours ,but after loosing a hand in an accident i cannot do it myself .would you be willing to do the service for you if i was to post it to you ,many thanks
Hi. Great video. I have an r758. I want to take the drive wheels out to clean properly. Can I just undo the brass plate underneath and remove wheels that way without dislodging anything else? Many thanks.
i have just bought a hymek class 35 in freightmaster set on ebay, and it isnt running, do you do repairs for other people, i would love to have mine running like that.
This really shouldn't be this noisy. Check the fit of the bearings in the housing and make sure the mesh with the gears is ok. However if you have a pwm controller then this will make many motors buzz unnecessarily. E.g. the basic hornby controller is in fact pwm, but gaugemaster tend not to be. A Triang hymek was my first loco back In the day. You are lucky as you bought a late version with the extra pickups.
Since uploading I've added more oil to the gears, tightened the bearing clips and reduced the magnets to two neos instead of four and its running as quiet as I'd ever expect it to. Its maybe even quieter than my 37 which surprises me. I was very careful to buy one with the front pickup as I know the earlier ones didn't have it. 😉
Hi Bill ,, would the capacitor keep some voltage in the wires to get the loco across points and diamond crossing but being so small do you think it would make much difference to them stopping on points and diamond crossings. I have tried that and dosent seem to make any difference when i used to run them. Anyhoo keep the good work and gr8 video's there Bill and thankyou. Cheers from John in Australia
Hi bill I’ve got the exact same loco it’s been put away in a draw because it didn’t run I followed your video to try and get it running again it moves but very slow have you any ideas to solve this please.
The wheels stay in fine as they are held in place with the underplate. The magnets were put there to provide some magnetic traction on older Hornby steel track. They serve little or no purpose on modern nickel track.
@@TheAntisocialTrain If the track is modern nickel track it won't be magnetic therefore the traction magnets do nothing. Put a magnet to your track and if it sticks then the traction magnets will improve traction a little. If it doesn't then they won't.
Not really. I'd only consider "running in" a loco with brand new brushes or new gears. But yes sometimes it takes a loco a couple of laps round the track to behave properly after a service.
