A BMW Hall effect sensor failure is due to worn wiring insulation at the connector end of the wiring harness under the tank. The symptom is an out-of-nowhere engine cranks but no start. The repair is electrical tape. Sensor failure can happen if the sensors get wet, such as if one sprays water through the front engine cover vent hole. The symptom is engine runs with a bouncing tachometer needle.
It decís top dead centre, TDC, you move the plate until it gets exactly to TDC,then secure the three screws. It should be close to centre anyway, as you will have put it there prior to doing this, and securing it with the pin as he showed you. It doesn't check the integrity of the HES, in fact, they rarely fail, it's the wires that disintegrate.
Hello, please, my father has a 1996 BMW R1100 RT. He has not operated it for 20 years. It has not driven more than 3,500 kilometers, and no one has touched it. Now I am trying to get it back to work. I have changed all the oils, the fuel pump, and the filter, but when the engine is running, it does not start, and no fuel comes out of the injectors. The pump works. Do you have a method or solution to my problem? Thank you
I would test to see if there is voltage at the electrical connectors at the injectors. If there is, it could possibly be that the injectors bad or are clogged. Pull them out and thoroughly clean them and see if that works
the sensors USUALLY burn out when the wires short out so the whole plate needs to be rebuilt. 2 new sensors and all new wiring - this is not a bad thing because far superior wiring is now available that was not available 24 years ago when these bikes came out so the chances of this happening again are basically nil and the wiring will also short out at the sensor's end because they will be in direct contact with way more heat down there.
Thanks! Where do I find that timing tool? My R1150GS HAL sensor died only because when I reassembled after changing the timing chain and tensioners, the round cover with the notch in it (rotor is what they call it) separated from the crank pulley, shifted slightly off center (though I have no way of seeing this since it’s blindly hide inside the pulley). When I started the engine, I heard a grinding sound. It ran for 10 seconds and did the typical HAL sensor failure mode (crank, no spark). The rotor was damaged inside its inner surface from striking the HAL pickups. I ordered a new rotor from Max BMW and a new HAL unit from BeemerBoneyard. Hoping these parts provide the fix. That rotor is very poorly designed. It has no reliable way to stay centered if it fails to stay attached to the crank pulley. The tiny tab on it also a terribly engineered attribute. I disassembled to find that
@@lobanoriginals3307 I bought and used this tool but it took me a good hour of troubleshooting to see there appears to have been a step I needed to do beyond what you mention in the video. For me I was not able to get the tool to light up (having locked the flywheel at TDC, key on, rotating the HAL either direction fully). Nothing. I decided to tighten down the HAL in its centered position, remove the TDC locking pin, and crank to test for spark and fuel. I had neither. Scratching my head I moved on to check fuses, connections, searched for damaged wiring, bad side stand switch, etc. Nothing. Then I read somewhere about a step to synchronize the new HAL with the Motronic unit by turning on the key, twisting the trottle at least twice to wide open. I did this. Then went back to set timing and this time it worked. I think that one step was critical for me as I put the entire bike back together and got a definite partial start before the battery said it had had enough. It's on the charger now and I expect it to fire up next attempt. Thanks again for the video. Saved me $1000 at least.
