Hi Tito, Your initial installation was fine with one exception, water will alway get in so you need to plan for it to get out as well. I would suggest leaving the corners open for this purpose. Dave
I am prepping to do a 400w install in a similar way, i was planning to leave several gaps around , maybe a couple on each side an inch long, should allow the water a way to escape
Thanks for the update, Brian. Interesting to see, especially since you have both Eternabond and screws/Dicor to compare. We screwed our panels to the roof over 12 years ago, and have never had a leak. Just our regular annual Dicor inspections have kept things dry. We do love Eternabond, and love the idea of avoiding additional holes in the roof... in theory. But our big issue is the fact that once Eternabond is in place, it's virtually impossible to remove. Since you don't need waterproofing (with no screw holes under the panels), have you looked at VHB tape? We understand that it's so strong that people are using four little pieces of it on the brackets at the corners of traditional solar panels with great results. We've used VHB for one roof project and so far, it's on there like concrete. But we understand that unlike Eternabond, it can be removed (haven't tried that yet). Maybe better for a project like this where strong adhesion, but no waterproofing is called for? Plus the supposed benefit of removability (and a lot less required... very small pieces go a long way).
Put front to back tape on first The front east/west tape Then tape on trailing end needs to be under side pieces or skip piece on southern edge altogether
By keeping the solar panels on top of the hot van top will reduce the efficiency of the panels. They need air circulation underneath them which would reduce the heat a little bit. Can you find out what's the efficiency difference?
HI Brian, I did my roof right after you did yours. I used the Eternabond tape... I didn't overlap mine though. I went up and took a look this morning and there is no lifting of the panels. That is through the Florida sun and two hurricanes. I just butted the tape up against the other edges.
I haver been using the 1" double sided eternabond tape on the outer edges of my flex panel installs with zero issues. I have done quite a few rv's now and not one issue. The tape seals all sides and no lifting. Perfect.
I'm new to the channel, and had just watched your original install of these panels yesterday. It's great that this was posted so i can see how well that held up. Overall for a year, it looks like the tape held up great! I'm looking at buying an R-Pod 180, and I think these panels, and tape would be the way I want to go. Thanks for the video!
VERY GOOD INFORMATION, AFTER SEEING THIS I WILL GET THE FLAT PANELS INSTEAD, NO HOLES TO WORRY ABOUT THEN, LESS INSTALL TIME, NO WIND TO AFFECT SOMETHING COMING LOOSE OR FLYING OFF...
I tried the 2" eturnabond tape . Only lasted 2 years I do live in the north country. With the cold weather in winter and fairly hot weather in summer. Scewing panels to roof is the only way to go. Thats of coures my opion. Really like your videos .
I used the hard panel. Bolted the Z brackets to house door hinges. Glued the hinges down with 3M 5200 over a year ago. Modified the hinge so I can pull the pins to tilt panel(if needed). Jim
Outstanding vid!! We bought a used 25 ft RV travel trailer in 2016 and have several long trips under our belts. We are planning on adding several 100W PVs to the roof of the trailer. Both my wife and I are ham radio operators and do emergency communications (EmComm) work for local county EMA, so we are deployable in the event of a small or large scale man-made or natural disaster. Our RV trailer is our mobile radio/communications asset and we need a dependable source of 12VDC power. The solar panels would greatly enhance our ability to provide EmComm support. Additionally, the window mounted PVs can provide shade! Great thinking outside the box.
I installed our flexible panels the same way and noticed the same exact issue. Doesn't seems to be hurting anything but less than ideal. I'm just going to think of it as liquid cooling ;). Over 5000 miles with them up there. I'm monitoring them and will let you know if I see any problem in the future. BTW, love your videos! Keep up the good work!
Excellent follow up. Bought my first (two) 50w Uxcell (Mohoo) mono solar panels. Since I don't have an RV or boat...used my laundry drying rack as a "solar stand". Total weight comes in at about 6-7 lbs, folds up smartly, and I attached the two solar panels to the laundry drying rack using those "Gear Ties" found at Lowe's, Home Depot. Best part...the wings on the laundry drying rack adjust. I also drilled a couple of "extra" holes in the tubing for more angle-opportunity. The rack is stainless steel. Just an idea I came up with that might help your viewers, campers, preppers, tailgaters, out on the road. Got videos on my channel. Take care...again, great follow up to these flexible panels!
I have the same solar panel. I have had it on top of my vehicle for well over a year now. I used 4x6 inch industrial velcro. One in each corner of the panel. Still going strong however I do check periodically for any lifting or pulling up. So far so good.
Wade Neilson name of it is Velcro brand. It is the extreme outdoor all weather/rough surfaces. Comes in a black and white box. Can find all different sizes on Amazon. Just search for industrial strength velcro it is made by Velcro. Be sure to clean the surface thoroughly. After sticking the velcro i believe it had to set for a few hours to let the adhesive do its thing.
I'd love to use Velcro instead of Eternabond, but it seems risky. Even though the flexible panels are extremely light, if one flys off on the highway, it could kill somebody simply by scaring the driver behind you and causing an accident.
Have you been through any high winds and/or rain and/or snow with this velcro method? Also I'm curious why you didn't velcro the entire perimeter of the panel? Do you think that water might collect under the panel more easily that way? Thanks.
Thank you for this review! People are often excited about their new purchases / installations ... but I realize that it is often after a few months / years that the best reviews come out ;-) btw, for that installation you did, I would take into consideration the condesation (between day and night, cold and hot)
I did my Renogy fexible panels with strips of vhb tape and eterabond on some of the edges leaving arreas where air and water can get in and out. I guess we will see how well it works. Will be going out to Utah, Arizona and Colorado this summer so far it is working well.
I liked your video on the longevity of using eternabond tape to attach the solar panels to the roof. It is something I'm considering myself. The debate in my house is how well the panels would work after being attached directly to the roof, and not having any ventilation underneath the panels. I've heard other RU-vidrs mention that there is a loss in energy producing efficiency in the panels when attached directly to the roof. Have you seen the panles drop in efficiency on hot days? Do you think elevating the panels on brackets to create air flow underneath them would be worth it? Or have the panels of today moved past this issue; or is this an issue at all in your opinion? Thank you in advance for your opinion and love the videos - keep em' coming.
If you try this method again, you might consider a fine bead of silicone calking around the tape edges. This might help prevent the water from penetrating in the corners. I haven't tried this myself, but it was something that came to mind while watching your video. Good luck.
Thank you for the update too. Both this water intrusion issue as the known heat dissipation problem can be addressed with the use of VHB tape. In a couple of weeks, I'll be installing 400W of flexible panels on the roof of my Ford Transit with VHB tape. With the corrugation of the roof and the spaces between the pieces of tape, I hope that the airflow will be enough to avoid these issues. Should be a quick install without holes. I wonder how long the two earlier panels have been installed and how they have performed with regard to amps and if there is any noticeable degradation? Great videos! Van Williams
Think about leaving the back edge unsealed. You will always get condensation under the panel. At a minimum have a weep hole. If you leave the whole back edge open the air will pull the moisture out as it sits or even better as you drive. A Glaziers option.. Nice job..
Hi Tito; I've done the same on a 2007 Chrysler PT Cruiser, and actually went with the eternabond tape after seeing your video which gave me the idea. It's been several months now, and it's performed very well, even though my panel is at a bit of a curve, since the roof of the cruiser is curved somewhat. It's performed very well; I have it hooked up to a deep cycle battery with a charge controller, and use the system to power some electronics in my car for long periods of time without having to worry about draining my car's starter battery. Having been nearly a year since doing this, I haven't had any issues yet. I've gone down freeways and have experienced all weather except snow in it, and it's stayed on very sturdy. One way I varied from your approach is that I did include a few pieces of double sided tape along the center of the panel (Center horizontally), each placed at 25% intervals, vertically, to hold the center of the panel just in case the passing wind pulled it upward. So far it's been looking fine, though I have seen the same expansion of the adhesive at the edges of the material. I believe this is just due to the heat of the sun expanding the material a bit. I spent most of my time with this out in phoenix, where it's 115+ outside, and the metal on my vehicle was just burning up, so i figured that's what caused my tape to have a bit of the adhesive expanding out the sides. Since my vehicle has such a slope on the roof, I haven't had standing water, and thus haven't run into the issue(s) you've faced with water getting underneath the tape. Mine's pulled itself up a little, vertically, because the panel resists the slope of my vehicle, but it's been more or less the same as it was day one. It's been interesting, I've gotten tons of comments on it since I've added this panel to a normal car / suv.
One thing I've learned today is that Dicor is some pretty good stuff! Another thing I've learned in the past is that sometimes it's best to ALLOW for water to get in, by giving it a safe way out. Just a small untaped portion at the lowest point may be all you need to have the Eternabond panels being eternal. However, then vibration and dust can be an issue as well.
Good thing you used Eternabond tape. I used some white tape from Amazon to hold my cable runs from the panels and one year later the glue had given out. The glass panels themselves are held down with the double sided Eternabond and Dicor and doing well
At high speed driving or strong winds the panels will want to lift off, so sticking panels down as well as tape sounds a good idea. 3m make really strong automotive double sided tapes (like the ones that stick rear view mirrors to glass) that stuff has an incredible grip!!
I agree that it would add more grip. However, that stuff is really strong. Should you every need to move or remove the panel though, it would be difficult to do so without destroying the panel in the process. That's the only downside I see. Thanks for the comment.
To to remove you use a strong twine with a sawing action and it works just like a cheese cutter wire. That's a trick I learnt from the windscreen fitters!! no damage to paintwork or panel. :-)
Nice video. Hadn't heard of your tape, thanks. Wish I hadn't drilled my old VW fiberglass roof. I found a nice two sided product on "A", Foxnovo Car Auto Double-sided Tape Heat Resistant Clear Acrylic Adhesive Foam Tape
i find it simple to drill a hole.. it will not hurt the roof at all as you seal it up.. i have a new rv and i was worried but i did it and im happy i did.. the glass panels seem to work better and hold up better.. less money too.. i like the 160 watt panels just feed back thanks for the video great job.. we need to meet up one day
Me too ,I just drilled 4 holes in my old 1966 camper I’m rebuilding . I bought this Aluminum Roof seal with fibers used this first first as I did have a leak before panel install. fixed leak then mounted panels and brackets and screws right into the roof then sealed the screws. I have no leaks and I’m using a 175 Watt Mono Panel collects electricity even in shade . Loving my off grid system can’t wait to join more panels.
The Deprey's yes my people don't think that solar is that profitable but that's comparing it on average use because when the electricity is free you can basically Run 100 watt light bulbs and leave them on all day and not give a shit or whatever antique technology that is power draining so theoretically you are saving 10 grand every two and a half years if you power your house with 100 watt light bulb in the daytime and eventually you'll be able to have 10 Tesla batteries under Freon Refrigeration so they last a lot longer you can just leave everything on lights on all night and put giant spotlights on your house just to brag to your neighbors about how much for electricity you have and they have to pay a fortune just to use shity ass 40 watt light bulbs.
Very cool! Maybe just a dab of sealant in the corners would solve this issue. When you overlap the tape, there will always be a gap no matter what you do below it with the double sided tape. Especially over time with movement of the vehicle and heat/cold cycles.
Use the back of a spoon to smooth out the air bubbles and add pressure to the adhesive in the corners of the eterna bond when you install. As an art archivist I’ve found that tapes need all the air bubbles smoothed out for maximum strength and durability.
I thought it was a great idea how you did the follow up video a year later. Especially since many ideas put on youtube are UNTESTED. By having this after some time this shows PROVING the ideas and tweaking them with changes as needed.
Forgive me for not reading all of the previous comments and apologies for repeating any prior advice but all I’ve experienced so far with flexible panels is to make sure that the underside of the panel is vented if there are air voids beneath - if it lifts due to pressure build up then the panel will distort and cells will break
I know this video is a few years old but I’m installing mine today with VHB tape in the middle of the panels and clear gorilla tape on the outside edges to seal it. Also corrugated plastic underneath to level off the uneven places of my vans roof. I plan to leave some gaps in the seal tape to let air get in to cool underneath the panels and also to let the water drain out. A name with the clear gorilla tape because it’s just as strong as the regular stuff, not as hot, and it won’t be a big deal if it overlaps into the actual working solar area, Also it will allow me to see if anything is getting trapped underneath the panels like water.
So postscript, install the panels today and I will tell you that this VHB tape is basically permanent. I made one little mistake and barely barely got it pried off. So for now I’m gonna say this tape is the perfect bonding for flexible solar panels on my van.
Brian, to deal the edges of my ridged solar panels so they didn't leak, I put a thin line of clear silicon along the edges of the ridged panel glass. In Olympia WA, lots of rain and no issues with leaking. Have you considered using silicone or another liquid sealant in those corners? Wouldn't need much. Be a lot cheaper than another layer of tape. Thanks for the videos. You're very easy to understand.
Alternatives to mounting flexi solar panels:: use 6mm or 10mm Tile backing board ( used for underfloor heating / tiling) , lay panel on tilt sheet cut to size of panel,cut out enough vent holes for ventilation, drill m4 holes, glue panel to tile board, mount on wood frame ( in my case to Shed) with m4 hex nuts/ bolts and largest m4 washers you can find. Sandwich 4 washers onto m4 frame , 3 on bottom 1 on top ( this leaves another gap for heat dissapation away from wood) . Cost of board 6mm £11 or $14 or 10mm £14 or $17.81.
Hi Brian, Great video showing long term results. I am planning on using eternabond on my flexible panels. I was thinking of leaving an opening in the tape on the low points. Meaning don't completely tape around the entire panel. My theory is to allow water to drain and allow air underneath panel. Just a theory any opinion? Happy travels, Lou
Another force which is acting on your panels is lower pressure air that moves over your RV as you drive. This acts like a suction lifting the panels up which creates flex. This force is likely what is lifting the tape over time. If you have ever sat in a soft top vehicle on the highway, you know what I mean. You may still prevent water/moisture infiltration without any adhesive under the flex panel by placing a bead of silicone around the edge of the panel before applying the Eternabond tape.
I would run a thin bead of Dicor all the way around the inner edge of that tape and the panel, much like you did on the panels with the screws. I would think that would prevent any further water migration inside the tape. Just a thought. . . . . .
3M Marine Adhesive/Sealant 5200 best out there . We have a 5th wheel that I have design side wall mount plates over the rain gutters. Each of the side plates where bolted in to the aluminum studs of the campe,had a used motor home and the Previous owners hold mounted though roof and it leaked . With the 2880 watts of solar panels I need them held strong.
I have had sailboats for years and can tell you I will never use 3M 5200. It is a permanent adhesive and is practically impossible to get off. 3M makes easier sealants to work with such as 4500 and 5000. I think you are much better off going with dicor or eternabond.
Make the eternabond tapes meet at 45 degrees. Apply some sealant over the seam, and cover the corner with a another piece of eternabond at 90 degrees to that seam.
hi, nice work with the panel! MAybe one upgrade: you can close down the tape connections where the water sweaps under the panel with transparent silikon - the type which the roof makers use, as that one can whitstand UV and heat. This way the water cannot get under the tape.
Hi, I like your vids, I left small openings allowing moisture to dry, I did use double sided tape and mask the outside. I little air flow is not bad for me. I have grooves on my van so it seems ok 9 months in.
I think i would just not go so far on the corners, since waterproofing isn't a concern, just leave the corners open a few mm so the water can drain out.
The advantage to your taping the panels is that they can be repaired and removed with little effort, however you just found the water issue. Mine have been glued to the roof since day one and are not going anywhere BUT no water buildup. I suppose if they ever go bad I would have to peel them off in pieces.
+PAT DOWNEY My older Unisolar panels are glued down that way with absolutely no issues. I would probably just mount something over the top instead of trying a removal.
Hi Tito, how about using some kind of slotted strut full length under the panel edges. This would let water escape around the edges and air circulation.
You don't need to re-do the tape. The panels are weather proof, they are ok. You do not need to tape the panel down on ALL sides. The tape is to keep the panels on the roof, not weather proofing them. I would simple make a good-size drain hole at the lowest corner, and call it a day.
Cool experiment. Just looking at your examples, the dicor looked great, the screws not so much. The tape looked great, except for the water issue. So, how ‘bout using the dicor and replacing the screw attachment method with the tape? That seems like a great combo and avoids punching holes in a perfectly sealed roof.
That's very similar to what I'm leaning towards for the next go around. Some VHB tape underneath to hold it down in a few areas, then Dicor around the edges. No screws.
I have a 235W module on my RV roof. It is attached to the aluminum roof with three "U" aluminum channels, fastened into roof trusses with #12 sheet metal screws. Before I fastened it with the screws, I installed a piece of Eternabond tape on the roof, under the locations for the aluminum mounts. The fasteners were driven through the brackets, through the Eternabond tape, through the roof, and into the roof trusses. As I drove the screws through everything, the adhesive layer of the tape wound around the screws and over the heads. It virtually sealed the holes as I installed the screws. Anyone that is apprehensive about holes in an RV roof should try this method. It is far superior to applying lap sealant like Dicor, because the tape lasts a very long time and the sealants tend to crack and deteriorate over time.
The spot where water is being pulled in is very tiny (where the tape meets) but the movement of the panel during wind or travel would create a suction action pulling water in. A tiny drop of silicon on each corner would probably have eliminated the issue completely.
I also had second thoughts about a hole in the roof but I also knew the tape will fail due to rain. Heat , moss, wind birds picking at it , sooooooo screwed them , some tape putty around the holes and dicor self leveling up, I'm retired so less time on a ladder and roof is ok with me.
I think there will always be condensation taking place. My experience with condensation is to let the air flow through. Sealing it tight may work against you especially in the PNW.
RVwithTito I have a fifth wheel with a solar I had installed when new 9 years ago. The panel sits up on some legs. Air can get underneath. No major issues so far and I am PNW not far from you as well. My unit sits in forest all winter and that is tough on them.
I am using 1" 3M double side tape on front end and 1/2" on sides, 3 -5 patches in the center to prevent flapping, no tape on edges. One of my panel died after 4 years and it was very difficult to remove 1" tape, it holds very good. PET flexible panels on a video do not like snow and ice, protect them for winter. Protect if you do not use it, they do not like sun also). No kidding, deteriorate very fast. ETFE lamination advertised as better for panels but I don have chance to try yet
Maybe this has already been suggested, why not leave some gaps in the Eternabond to serve as weep holes? Not trapping the water would let it drain naturally.
Thanks Tito, I did use your idea and the Eternal bond tape it's been about a year for me too. I'll check for these issues and find a way to let you know the out come. Thanks again, for your update. I'm located in the eastern part if these United States 🇺🇸NYC. Waiting for the snow test. 😬
my flexible panels did not hold up after two years(renogy) . No voltage must have delaminated or over heated. might have been a defective panel run but they did work for two years. I glued my to the rv roof with 3m marin deck adhesive.Going to replace with glass panel
If the inside corners where the tape overlaps is the only place water is getting in, a dab of dicor or similar sealant over each lap joint should keep the water out. Might not work now that water has penetrated but for future installs....
Nice job Tito, you have inspired me to think out of the box. My "installer" was going to put these on a rack and he says they will make wind noise. Not a problem using this method. I really like the relcrow idea. Or why not just run a bead of silicon on the back and glue it to the top?
