I have found this to be the best way to insulate a heated concrete floor. We have poured concrete on other type of insulation and it did not work well and there is no fixing it after the pour is done.
I started my career as a trim carpenter, now I’m doing everything but plumbing and electrical, I love your videos Bondo! Such a priceless resource! Also super convenient that we have the same frost line here in NH
Insulation cost is hard for a lot of people to choke down when they are faced with the virtual mountain of prices when building a home but as it turns out in the end it's one of the easiest bills to swallow. Nice job and your pal is an ace for sticking to his guns and doing it all right.
when Big Biscuit is shirtless I am surprised there are not car loads of 20yo girls and single moms driving by and screaming for him and trying to get selfies with him.....and of course hugs
I had a garage done about 6 years ago, no insulation or heat under the pad, just vapor barrier and some foam board vertical down one foot around the perimeter, no wire, just fiber, and still no cracks. Saw cut.
Cheaper to lay 2" XPS 4x8 sheets down than closed cell SF, probably faster too. Must tape the seams. Code is to lay R-10 under concrete basement floors whether in-floor heating is used or not, at least where I live.
@@bondobuilt386 Mine didn't. Need to use the right tape made for XPS. I used O C HomeSealR tape, which is double the cost of duct tape and other tapes but it sticks tenaciously. If you don't use tape, you can have the XPS float as the concrete is poured, which can be a complete disaster.
That underfloor heating setup looks slick! Just out of curiosity, how does getting 2" of closed cell foam sprayed on the ground like this compare with using 2" closed cell foam boards? That stapler sure makes things go a lot faster that tying the UFH pipes to the rebar mesh! 👍
@@bondobuilt386Is there any major differences in cost between the two, the spray foam solution looks like it's a lot faster and easier to work with / so that is obviously a benefit, but having to have someone else install it could be a faff as well?
Ever have any problems with leaks / breaks in the tubing ? Some guys pressurize the lines before placing the concrete. Really great content Bondo, thanks for the details, invaluable information. One of the best tips is 4,000 psi with low slump, as you said, why pay for high strength then dilute it with water?
You do realize what with the weather they’re calling for here this weekend, this video, with 80+ degree and sunny weather is a knife to the heart, right? LOL You really know how to hurt a guy! 🤣😉 Nice work, curious to see how the no real reinforcement works out in a few years. Time will tell. Get your snow equipment fired up, we’re all going to need it! 🤨🤦♂️👍
The spray foam in Texas has gotten insanely expensive. Got a quote of 36k to insulate a 2k sf house I'm building for someone. Five years ago I did this exact same house, by the same company for 5.7k. Ridiculous.
Love the channel. BTW, 1/2 “ PEX should not exceed 300 ft. Would like to hear your thoughts about using Logix Heat Sheet or other products that have nodules for stepping in PEX.
Hey Bondo I watch most of your vids. I am looking into putting pex down under an in ground pool but this is at the beginning stages right now. I have done a few concrete pex jobs but not a pool and the people that sell the pool kits say they have never heard of anyone doing it. I personally think its a great idea but I have a few questions. Any chance you would try to answer a couple of questions if a guy emailed you?? advise only.
That staple gun a rip off Amazon $763 cnd and if you use it all the time it end junk. He'll you can buy a long sub floor screw gun for $280 that last. Then the plastic staples for it is very costly per 100
The homeowner refused to let us do the drains as it is in about 6 feet of sand and he said it was pointless. I wanted to do them as we always do if we have a place to take it to daylight.
@@bondobuilt386Interesting...In Canada, would not be up to the owner and they would not pass plumbing and drainage inspection without the inspector seeing it before backfilling....Thanks for the videos...I'm looking forward to building my next house again soon!
I've been hearing for years that when you run that in-floor heat, you don't want to let your runs get much more than 300 feet each - if possible. Some will try to get 4 250-foot runs out of 1,000 feet... but MOST will try to get 3 333-foot runs. You, though, are talking about a full 1,000-foot run. Has something changed? Has the tech improved somehow? ... or is that "guideline" just a bunch of BS?
@@bondobuilt386 - Yeah... I caught that, but at first you were talking about when you got to 750 feet, you were going to need to run it back to the utility wall or whatever. So... I still wanted the question answered even though you changed it up to approx 300 ft runs. I thought perhaps there might have been some reasoning behind being able to run the full thousand feet. So... have you ever run them that long? the full thousand feet?
With 5/8'' tubing you can go 333' without having too much head pressure for a standard circulator. With 1/2''' tubing... better be around 200'. I did know of one guy who DIYed his slab with the whole thousand foot coil.
Great work! Will the concrete near the garage door not cause cold bridging in to the heated concrete inside, as there’s no insulation between the two ?
You need a 6ml Paper barrier on the ground. Here were winter now is 30 below that 4 foot wide bubble foil works as a good vaperbearer an you put the foil side up reflex heat back up. All seam of plastic foil an foam must be sealed with a 3" wide aproved tape. Foam must be 4 feet out on a 45 deg slop with 2 feet of foan down out side side of footings and 4" drain tile in the very bottom of the footing compact 1/2" washed crushed rock making sure you have a minmum 2' flat bottom footing to fit the 2 foot wide foam in an still maintan a 24" deep footing. Ground water the biggest rob of heat. How many out door wood hot water heater lines i dug up because they complain they burn a lot of wood. I just have to go there in winter an drive over were there lines are barried an i know why. Then you have these fools that get sucked into paying thousands of $ in a factory foam filled 4" black solid drain tile with 2- 1" pex line in side.. at best an R3 for 32 years i been building my own water tight line insalated so good i do winter installs laying the line on top of the ground in 40 below an snow never melts off.
someday they wiil require 2 or 3 loops on permiter and large opening and center 1 loop, , concrete is mass heat sink once up tyo temp doesnt need the double pipe? work for my slabs saved 50% of pipe , in bathroom did ;like urs, rest way less and home is toasty nice minnesot negative 40
How does the horizontal foam help any to keep the building warm that is placed outside instead the inside? Is putting all on the vertical a better option? What does the horizontal foam do when placed on the outside of the foundation? By the way I like your videos!!! :)
It does the same. It's better to go vertical if you can and easier but sometimes water table won't let you. Check your local code before doing anything. With horizontal there's a good chance to have negative pitch. You could run the water right back to the foundation and landscaping could cause issues. Digging holes for plants even gophers could mess it up
I never posted the slab pour just the walls. We do way more work than I can keep up with the videos. It's just me doing all this RU-vid nobody helps me like some bigger channels. Maybe some day. LOL
when doing this in floor heating what you are supposed to do is pressurize the pex with air pressure and have repair nipples and clamps ready in case you puncture the tubing. you will stop an air leak coming out of the concrete pretty easy.
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I can agree that the foam insulation under the slab would make for a good job. But you wont convince me on the foam filled with concrete on the walls. Dont hit it with a lawn mower or a weed wacker.
@@BealyGood Really, lol Then please explain the parge coat of mortar on the foam at the grade level, or didnt you notice that? Not knocking Bondos work, as usual it is excellent. Foam does well for insulation on (protected areas.) Grade level around a buildings exterior is not a protected area.
