Rewatching this after a few months of being a flashlight enthusiast is fascinating. When i first watched this, all these terms were meaningless to me and went right over my head. Now i understand everything, it's like i learned a new language.
Great video man! I've ordered more than a couple of his lights and I still watch the whole thing! One thing I would add to help the new customer (and probably help Hank too), because you covered pretty much everything, is for doing the add-on email process to Hank - instead of drafting a new email and putting your order number in it, just respond to the order confirmation email that Hank sends you within minutes of paying for your order. That might just help cut down on the potential for inadvertent mixups on his end. Great info here dude!
Hello! I recently discovered your channel and subbed right away. The first video I watched was the one with you and your son building his flashlight. It was heartwarming to say the least. This particular video was EXACTLY what I was searching for because I was overwhelmed with the choices on Hank’s web site. With your help, I was able to order the two D4V2s and one D1 that will be exactly what I want. You’re a treasure trove of information. Thanks a million sir!
Love your videos. Really love your off-the-cuff delivery. You could work in radio…maybe you already do! Anyway, I wish this video existed months ago. I haven’t purchased a Hank yet, but I have been waffling over options for months because no one has made a video like this with clear explanations and a salesman-like approach. You tell me to get a raised side switch? Ok, I will. Thank you. I needed that.
I think it's worth reiterating for those who are new to the Emisar/Noctigon lights how important it is to have quality high drain, 15A+ batteries to power these lights. While I was waiting for an order of Molicels, I was forced to use an old Ultrafire branded 18650 to power the D4V2 that I just received, since it was the only short unprotected flat top cell I had that fit, and didn't realize it had a max discharge rate of 7A. It would not let me power the light anywhere near top ramp, let alone turbo, without immediately shutting off, while the UI reported voltage dropped to 3.8V from full charge after one top ramp... So, outside of finalizing the options you have for your custom light, the next thing you must check off is a handful of well reviewed, high drain batteries you need to power it.
Thanks for the video! Nice details. One thing that 's seriously lacking on Hank's site is a tutorial like this. A static content page could be made that hits a lot of this. Especially a general writeup of each emitter type and WHY you would pick it. Would also be great if there was a "wizard" where you could select your priority (tint, throw, spill, efficiency, etc.) and get recommendations. Obviously the way Hank has things set up, one could choose an emitter for a given light that's not a good fit overall, but someone might want it because of their own special intention behind it. Another thing sorely lacking is any kind of throw data. I'm assuming there's a formula you can calculate it from candela, but TIR vs. reflector should affect that as well. There's also the matter of relative hotspot size.
I agree, but I guess he’s spread too thin work wise to spend a lot of time on the website our promotion. He’s told me that he and one partner do all the assembly of all the orders, in addition to all the financials and customer support.
@@cheule Thanks for your follow-up, Cheule. You know, so many in the community love Hank and his work--I'm sure he could enlist some volunteers to help him out with some of the content. Especially given how there are a number of technically proficient members that buy his flashlights.
Thank you so much. I've been so confused. Hank should have Wiki on his site! Can you also cover hanks emitters, drivers, and tint, please? If you haven't done that already. I end up not pulling the triggers on many lights because there are sooo many options. I have no idea what they look like in the real world.
@@cheule I actually wanted to try a 2700k light with hank and their D1 mini pocket thrower with W2 blue emitter (saw a yt content about it) looks fun but not practical.
Hank's current SST20 4ks are pretty green in tint. I wound up having to put a minus 1/4 green to get it out. While it wouldn't bug most people using the light outdoors, if you use it inside (at work for example) it is pretty noticeable even by the "untrained" eye. It also gets pretty artifacty at medium range in a D4V2. I'm not saying it's a bad emitter or choice. It was my first Hanklight and 5 more followed it and more will come in the future. It is one of my go to edc lights. I just wanted to mention that because some folks really dislike a green tint. If you think this might bother you, look into minus green filter or consider the 219B 4.5k which gives up some brightness and throw for one of the most beautiful and functional beams you can get in a D4V2. Both are high CRI and the difference in lumens is barely noticeable in actual use.
I'm glad you mentioned that the output difference is barely noticeable, because I don't have any lights with SST20s and watched a ton of videos trying to decide between SST20 4k and 219B 4.5k and also the 219B 3.5k and finally I decided to go with the 219B 4.5k fearing of green SST20s. In most of the videos it seems like the trunks of trees look more greenish with SST20s and I think this makes trees less contrasting in the forest (a green environment), while with 219Bs everything that's brown, just looks vivid and more warm, which is much more calming.
@@sciencestuff699 I disagree, my SST-20 D4V2s are noticeably brighter than my 219b D4V2. My SST-20 outputs 3000 lumens while my 219b is about 1500 lumens That’s not to say 219b is a worse emitter. I love it and have it in over 15 lights. It’s just not as bright or throwy.
My D4V2 FA3 bin from Hank is dead neutral. 0.0001 DUV on my Sekonic C-800. Which bin did you get? Hank has sometimes resorted to using FC1, which can run above BBL.
@@cheule Ok, I will see how far it reaches, when it arrives. I found a lot of videos with SST-20 quads, but not so many with 219B quads. I will probably end up buying more with some other emitters anyways, because I'm curious.
@@cheule I believe it is the FC1. My SST20 4K is in a month old Black oil Ti from JLHawaii808. My understanding is the older SST20 4K light were pretty neutral bin but the more recent ones have been green. I don't have an old one to side by side with but it had a noticeably more green tint than any other light I have, including my LH351D 5k, before I filtered it. Don't get me wrong, I love the light. I'm carrying it with me right now (first shift of the week. Ugg..) After I put a Lee filter on it it is beautiful, if a bit warmer. I also probably stated the brightness difference poorly. The SST20'S are clearly brighter. I just mean that, in my day to day use, I never want for more lumens with any 4 emitter Hank light. Except for geeking out I haven't had a situation where I couldn't illuminate what I needed to with either emitter. I suppose if you are trying to light distant objects in an open field, the 219's might not get it done. SST20'S are throwier for certain.
I'd like to see a video about buying a dual channel light. I've seen some people say it's awesome, some say it's over hyped. I was thinking about a d4v2 with lh351d/w1, but it's a bit expensive to "just order to try" it,
They are fabulous. I have a D4sV2 with lh351d 5k/w1's and my D4v2 with lh351d 3.5k/W2 should be here tomorrow or Tuesday. The lh351d 5k is a touch green but not too bad. I may put a minus 1/8 green on but it's not bad as it is. I have the D4sV2 in switching, rather than ramping and it is just like having 2 lights in one body. I'm sure there is a measurable difference in 2 vs 4 emitters on at a time but, in use, I only see it on a flat wall. If you are concerned, go with similar color temps. I honestly don't know if I will buy another single Chanel 4 emitter light (right... I'll stick to that, sure).
@@dalex100 I got it. I like the light for sure but I think I might have gone for a strange mix. So the lh351d 3.5 are quite nice. At higher power, they have a lovely warm color. As you ramp them down they get very yellow with a touch of green (to my eyes - don't have a proper photometer) but that is to be expected. The W2s are the W2s. With the D4v2 standard optics, they don't get nearly as throwy as in a D4sV2. Rather than being half way between, say, SST20'S and W1s, I think they are maybe 1/3 passed the SST20'S, if that makes any sense? They have a wide hot spot with a very pronounced second ring. When used as tint ramp, I can get some interesting combinations. The mostly lh351d with a touch of W2 gives a big yellow flood with a cool center that diminishes toward the edge of the spill. I brought the light to work all week and it is fine. Due to what I ordered, it isn't the do it all light I hoped for. I think getting either a cooler temp lh351d (say 5k), a sst20 4k (with minus green) or a 219b 4.5 with the W2 or getting a W1 in the second channel. The other thing I want to try is to get a 10621 optic and then just DC fix the lh351d. I just put an order in to JLHAWAII808 and totally forgot to order the optic so that will have to wait. Keep in mind, none of this is me saying, "I don't like it". I'm saying that this light is an unusual combination and may need a few tweaks to make it perform the way I want.
My first Hanklight was the K1 SBT 90.2. Not a very practical light, but it's FUN in some situations! :) Tempted a bit by the D4SV2 now, but I'm not sure about taking on yet another battery format with the 26XXXs (and one that won't fit in my chargers.)
Welcome! This video is older but still very accurate. The only thing I would add is, 519A 4000k is a good SST-20 alternative, and optional boost driver if you want half the lumens for 5x longer.
@@cheule Thanks, I was curious about the boost driver. If I use the light with the smaller 18350 tube configuration that driver should keep the temperature down and less strain on the smaller battery, I hope. As a newbie, the SST-20 4K sounds like the best candidate for color rendition.
I wish you made this earlier. It took me probably months of research to find all this information mentioned in the video since his website is really customer unfriendly. Btw, there's more options on the website such as illuminated switches, dual channel options, tint ramping etc. Did you record this months ago?
I recorded this just yesterday! His site is very inconsistent, some lights show button options that others don't show. This is why I mentioned custom ordering and emailing him. Also, I didn't make the video exhaustive with regard to all the options, it was already too long!
@@cheule I also could've used this video a few months ago but still really appreciate you taking the time to make it. I'm sure it will be very useful for many folks who are just getting into the hobby. Cheers and thanks!
@@cheule I noticed it on some items. The video was still interesting and useful to watch. The problem with such things is that you understand the product when you have it in your hands. Just then you understand why people said go for the high CRI, or get a dedicated thrower etc. That why videos like these from people who tried most of the "flavors" are very useful. Thanks for being honest about the pocket clips. I heard that some people had problems with anodizing. One complain that I had about the video was the size of the page. Please next time go full screen and zoom in. I was watching on the phone while I was doing something and I had to put it on front of my nose to see the various options.
Flashlights 101: Tint talk! (CCT, BBL, DUV and bins) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-agIbkfuZjH4.html And in this video I measure CRI: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZH2_gTmsxkE.html
One thing I got to question, you said to go ahead and order then let hank know. He has added the option For the Price Difference option and will tell you to get the quantity of that rather than paypal the money. So if it's $10 more you'd get quantity of 10 of those
Coming from the tactical community, it's so strange to me how little flashlight enthusiasts talk about lumens and candela. Most tactical guys barely understand the basics of how a flashlight works but they can tell you each brand's candela - each "tactical" brand, of which there's basically only 3 or 4. You guys know so much about these things but I can't find a candela rating anywhere.
Candela can be pretty easily measured at home, if you are so inclined. A simple lux meter at 1m away. Google “convert lux to candela.” Also, with a light like the D4V2 there are about 30 emitter options, all with different lumen and candela ratings.
Looking into this light and came across your video. First off thanks for the information. This light would be used for woods walking, city walking, in house and EDC. I don't like warm colors too much. Bought a Reyslight mini pineapple with Niachia 519 and compared to my Olight i3T it looks too warm. I like bright and floody to light up the whole area. I have Olight Warrior X Pro and Fenix E35 if I need to really throw. For my purpose should I go with sst-20 4000 or ss-t 20 5000? Will also add the flood option. Thanks again
@@cheule Hank contacted me also and stated for my purpose he recommends a 519A 5700 k dome with floody optic and boost driver upgrade. Stated it will have better efficiency and longer runtime, but the turbo would drop to 2200 lumens. Since the standard is 4, 000 but it drops down extremely quickly. It's kind of useless for long-term high beam.
NOCTIGON DM1.12 VS OIlight Seeker 4 Pro? Really wish Olight had high CRI Leds + ANduril + non proprietary batteries + lower price lol. And really with Noctigon had that turning switch.
Fantastic video for me that was trying to understend better this enthusiast flaslight. The only lack of this flashlight for me is an integrated charging system (as far as i know, no Emisar torch has it). One question: can you tell something about the optional driver? What exactly change, what you gain (in terms of runtime, efficency, colder temperature) and what you lose (how many lumen in turbo you lose? I'm warried expecially because i would buy the 4000k led emitter option that alteady lose some lumen).
@@cheule I think the boost driver is pretty much a must if the D4V2 is your first Hanklight. Most people who aren't enthusiasts will appreciate the much longer runtime and efficiency of the boost driver. When you pair the driver with the W2, 519A or the SST20, it turns the D4V2 into a true EDC duty light.
Hey man, me again 😂, i'm about to order a D4V2 (wanted the KR4 but i like the button on the D4V2) and i was wondering, if i want the flashlight to open with let's say, a 2700k at start up then going up to 5000k... is the 2700k the channel 1 and 5000k channel 2 when you choose on the website ? Couldn't find the answer. Thanks !! Again, super great vid ! 🤟
@@cheule yes it was great for this nooby! due to this new addition, does that mean the difference is a tinted screen with a neutral light as opposed to a coloured light over a neutral tint? thanks!
Great video, just found out about this page and I’m pumped to order a new light. Got a couple of lights already like a baton 3 for edc (which I love for the form factor and brightness though the cri and general temperature and tint leaves a lot to be desired) but wanted to know if there’s any recommendation as to what to get
@@cheule awesome thanx. I saw a couple more of your vids and I’m leaning towards a mule seeing as I use it mainly for car work (so a lot of flood would be nice) and you mentioned photography work which is also a hobby of mine. How do I order the D4V2 in mule and what high CRI emitter should I use? Thanx for your response! 😄
I have d4k sst20 in 6500k ( i like cool) without boost driver. Only problem is the heat. You cant even run it longer times on high. Do you think there is better options like 519 with boost or something like that? I dont mind a little bit of less output. For me best 21700 flashlight is sofirn if25a so I am looking something close. Nice cool and great beam combo. Not flod not throw. Video is great but now you have a lot more options so guess it is time for new video :)
great help ..... is it possible to order one with GRB battery indicator illuminated switch in off position? Also which one is the most flood emitter for D4V2 in about 4000 to 5000k? Thanks
It is, just email Hank after placing your order. Give him your completed order number and he will tell you if any additional paypal payment is necessary.
Great video, what's best option for the new dk4 ? What's the mule option and what's the 519a option. I'm looking for best of both worlds throw and flood the brightest... Something that is better than my sofrin if22. Thanks
I ordered one but it does t come with a battery, which is something I overlooked. Now I can’t figure out what kind to buy and where. What kind of battery do I buy for the D4K?
You’re gonna need a 21700 Flat Top I’d say pick up a 21700 Samsung 5000mAh High Discharge Flat Top from Illumn. They’ll run you about $6.50 per one. And you’re also gonna need a special charger with those things. I’d recommend the XTAR VC4
I don’t know how closely you’re following the comments, but I’ve wanted to ask you something since you made the kr4, d4sv2 dual channel video. Is the dual channel d4v2/kr4 worth it for a throwy/floody combo or does it just kind of make it half-baked for both channels? I think I’m convinced to do a D4SV2 dual channel, but am wondering if I would be happier just sticking with a single emitter type in the d4sv2 and saving the $20 difference? The novelty of it seems worth it to me, but I need some direction. Thanks!
I’m a bigger fan of single channel lights. They’re more efficient and ultimately put out more lumens. Note that dual channel lights can be fun, but they lack a usable moonlight, and are 9A linear only. They don’t have FET or DD.
For multipurpose I suggest 4000K. I would go 519A 5700K DD. Here is some data I’ve measured during DD. 519A CCTs for DD sm273 DD -> 2200K (Carclo TIR) sm303 DD -> 2600K (?) sm353 DD -> 2700K (LOP Reflector) sm403 DD -> 3050K (LOP Reflector) sm453 DD -> 3250K (Carclo TIR) sm503 DD -> 3650K (LOP Reflector) sm573 DD -> 4000K (Carclo TIR) sm573 DD -> 4300K (LOP Reflector) note: there is variation between emitters and CCT can drop because of optic.
This was a bign help. I just got my first 2 D4V2's with your help. But they seem to be running Anduril 1. Is there a reason or advantage for using 1?? If Anduril 2 is an improvement I would like to upgrade. But I don't have a Mac or Android. I'm Apple phone and Windows laptop/PC kind of guy. Am I screwed?? Thanks!
I don’t think Anduril 2 is a huge upgrade, no. But you can definitely flash firmware under windows, but I can’t walk you through that as I don’t have a window machine. Mac/Linux only here.
519A is less lumens than XP-L HI, similar to SST-20 in my testing. With dome, more floody and neutral tint. Without dome, more throwy, more beam artifacts, drops about 20% CCT, and gets rosy.
what if you don't like "rosy" or red/orange and yellow beams? what if you want like super super white like modern lights or high tech cars or something? I want the whitest whites.
Hey Cheule really like ur work, hav learned lots watching ur vids. Does Hank ship to the Uk and will I pay import fees etc or does he take care of that stuff Thanks
How much output can a D4V2 W1 or W2, and 519A sustain? I've been debating about getting one of these for my next EDC, I also don't have any Anduril lights yet and I think this will be a good choice.
Is it safe to say that a Ti stonewashed body will wear better as a daily driver light? I bought a D4SV2 in Cyan and it looks like crap after using it for everything. I want something that will age nicely.
Ti stonewashed has a couple advantages over aluminum ano. 1) it’s much harder 2) it’s pre “scuffed”. With that said, note that the darker the ano color, the tougher it is. Cyan is so light that it rubs off easily. Black and dark grey maintain look better.
hey newbe here looking for my first d4v2 or.. ? I'm looking for the bloodiest pocketable light.. and I'm between d4v2 and dt8, any advice here ? I'm in filming industry and sometime my flashlight can be fast & useful.. so 219b 4500 or sst20 4000 for the cleanest output ? thanks !
West Coast about 2-3 weeks. East Coast about 4-5 weeks. Shipping is free, and the flashlights are an unbelievable value. So I just got used to waiting.
I don't. I'm not really interested in efficiency. If I think I'll exhaust the battery, I'll just carry a spare. The boost driver is less bright on turbo, and brighter on moonlight. Both things are handled better by the "stock" FET+1 driver. I am also not a huge fan of the Dual Driver for the same issues.
One does not buy a light without the SS bezel, period.. I also generally avoid magnets on anything EDC, just to avoid wiping any magnetic cards that might end up near them..
