Well here it is! The first ever run for me of an RC diesel engine! It was fun but there is much more to come. To contact please watch • How to Contact Me Please check out my Blog pages www.rcgroups.co... www.dmrcflyr2.c...
Holy crap, nice save. You kept your cool way better than I predict I would of seeing it start to come away swinging the monster prop. Very cool. I've been very interested in trying a diesel glad I came across your video very helpful.
1st thing on starting an engine ,,, is knowing how to stop it,,, several different ways,, tossing a rag onto the prop being last,,, ole USN vet (diesel engineman)
my main problem with these engines back in my heady days of marine engines, was simply, being not made well enough to be less vibration, hence they always got loose on the mounts what ever method you used, mostly because of the surplus fuel oil that drips on to our mounts. Even Epoxy glue vibrated apart, and bolts went flying everywhere. The Gannet 10cc Petrol engine however was calm as a cucumber :P
Hi, Diesels Run a lot rougher than glo engines, so the carb butterfly has probably vibrated loose, same as the engine mount bolts. Looking at the smoke I'd say compression may be a little high and then adjust the needle valve. Otherwise a good 1st attempt. Great conversion!
I'm pretty sure I felt your adrenaline all the way down here in Charlotte. kudos on the conversion David! I have a feeling we'll see it running tightly on the stand with a new prop by end of weekend....
12x6 prop on a . 40 size engine looks like a midget trying to spin a ferris wheel at a carnival. That was such an easy start though, as if you used ether. Did you? you must have. Otherwise how can a cold/initial start be this easy? I can start any glow engine on a first swing or pull, but not a diesel, unless primed with accelerant. Carbuerated diesel does not reach happy op until warmed up and adjusted by you, right? Whut up?
LOL - I have one YT video where I forgot to clamp down the test stand with an MDS .15 speed engine, and another where I am cranking and fussing with a Picco FAI .40 for a minute or so until I realize I have the vent connected to the fuel inlet. You are not alone..
Yeah, you think you could grab the compression adjustment knob with the engine flipping and flopping around like it was? Easy to say one thing but being in the situation is another.
@@dmrcflyr2 dear David l was not refering to stoping the engine in that situation but when in normal use and installation for emergency it's good to have a blanket on hand or a old towel this is how we stop the air cars at the tether track best regards
Excellent! With the right needle and compression settings the engine is easier to start than I thought. Could you please measure the temperature of the engine near the exhaust port?
Using pressurization line from exaust is not good, because water in gasses does not dissolve in diesel fuel. Optimum compression = maximum rpm.If compression is higher ,rpm slows down.
Hello ... I bought a used Hobbico Nextar trainer plane with an O.S. 50 and did not bring the battery that the plane carries to drive the servos. It has a Futaba FM receiver of course with glass. What type of battery do I have to buy? How many volts and how many mAh? Thanks for your help. Gabriel
Believe me the drama was NOT intended. I ran it again after another prop and better securing. That run was much better. Both runs had a 12x6 prop. Stay tuned for the next video showing the second run in a day or so....
That is one of the advantages of running a diesel, they swing a larger prop at lower RPM for more thrust. I have some tach numbers in the second video. Patience man..... LOL.
Very much luck indeed...but a lesson,you will not forget..there are the best anyway! ;-) Just a tip from a diesel head. If you richer or lean out the fuel,it also affect the compression ratio.So in other words,if a engine is on the edge of almost perfect compr. setting,and you rich the mix a bit,it will run perfect...and if its over compressed a bit,and you lean it out a bit ,the black oil as sign of too much compr.,.... will be gone,as you lean out.The combustion chamber is very small, so its very sensitiv for any adjustment. But diesels runs great,low fuel consumption and far more power at lower rpm, torque is what a usable flying engine need in my opinion. Thanks for sharing even your blubbers! its a lesson for others as well.Diesels do more vibrate. Regards , Peter
Does the top of the head compress to change the overall compression rate,I see you turning what looks like a screw on top,unless it is for air. THAT thing blows me away that it can run with no spark once so ever. I would be nervous to have it start accidentally by some one screwing with it,not realizing compression alone starts it. Keep a rag handy. My brother often threw one when his engines ran backwards on start. Cool engine!
No Jim, there is no recommended starting point. The first video that I didn't include showed 7 minutes of fiddling with it only to get it to pop 2 twice. I may post that video at some point but it is really boring. But once I got it to pop the second time I knew I was close, so I filled the tank and when for this run. The second run is even better.
One method is to turn in the compression screw until you get zero clearance, then you back off a fixed amount from there, a turn or so. Much like opening a needle valve from closed.
Hmm I think I'll be using a torque wrench on my stand from now on to make sure I'm being consistent when bolting down engines for testing. I have not had that happen yet and I sure don't want too either.
The LA40 has a square head. But underneath the cylinder is round. you will need to work out the head bot dimension and go from there. you will end up with a round head as you will need to turn the part on a lathe. easier if you scored a Davis diesel head and OS FP or FSR 40
I state the prop size at 2:32. I am not diesel engine expert and there is plenty of material online to assist you if my videos do not provide the information required.
If you mentioned it i must have missed it what was your target compression ratio . i would like to turn down some stock for a head looking for some specs like head cc deck heights etc.. thanks
I think your advice is poor. Sticking a finger over the carb when the engine flopping all around is a BAD idea. Priming a diesel like a glow engine is also a BAD idea. The engine could very well fire up while priming. I really do not think you know much about running diesel engines.
it is not, because we use it when the carb screw loose or thereis not another way to stop the engine, like glow sem time can´t pinch the fuel line or can´t put the finger over the exaust or carb intake.
I know this video was made years ago, bit real diesels, like the ones from PAW are pretty damn good too. Look at this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fDelpXgHymA.html
Model diesels are fun to mess with on the bench, but inferior to comparable glows. With today's glow two and four strokes, and gas engines, there are no advantages to running a diesel. Model diesel fuel availability is also a major drawback.
Modern PAW diesels are a case in point here. They are powerful, easy-to-start, amazingly responsive and throttle well. I doubt you had them in mind when you posted.
David McIntire I have also read somewhere that you need to set the compression high to get it running and when you got it running you need to decrease the compression until the engine runs good.