Osmo make wood protection products for both inside and outside use. This video shows their indoor Door Oil and Top Oil and their outdoor Clear and Oak UV products. I am now an Osmo fan after trying these finishes.
Thank you for enlightening us on this already well known product. Good old Germany, and its reliability. This was an excellent video, with clear advice and very helpful hints. Oak has become one of my favorite woods. I was a cabinet maker for nearly forty years. Greetings from France.
The first time I used the door oil on howdens oak veneered doors, I honestly couldn’t believe the finish I got after 2 coats. Absolutely amazing, it’s like it was finished in a factory. So much better than clear varnish
Great video, fantastic to see someone with tons of experience doing things right. I am back refreshing my knowledge. I bought the oil a couple of years ago and its simply brilliant worth every penny. Thanks Peter
You are more than welcome. Would also like to add, Ive just opened an old tin probably three years old thats been stored at minus 20 in our house here in Lithuania and its still perfectly usable.Quite incredible.
Hi Nadine, Just use a clean dry cloth to rub the surface as dry as you can. Then apply the next coat (with a brush or cloth) and wipe off the excess with a cloth. Peter
Peter - Thank you so much for your insightful videos. I bought some red oak to build an outdoor table but when I got home discovered it was in fact American walnut. Would you recommend using Osmo UV 420 as a finishing oil? I would expect to repeat treatment each year and it sounds as if the protection it offers could be great
Hi Peter, That should be fine but do revive it each year. The beauty of Osmo is that you can, in a matter of miinutes, put a freshening-up coat on which will last another year. Cheers. Peter
Hi Mike, What a wonderful car. I used to be able to do everything on the Morris Minors and Travellers - even big end shells ! I did a test of Osmo on the shaft of a pitch fork which is left outside next to the compost heap. If I had bothered to touch it up each year it would still be perfect. With no further attention it is still not bad at all. That handle is Ash. I imagine you will be using Ash for the wooden bits. Good luck. Peter
I just finished second layer of top oil 3058 on my oak kitchen desk and its pretty damn great. Leaves the wood looking very natural. I would have liked to apply more than two layers but unfortunately didnt have time. Also the 0.5 liter can is 30euros here in Finland haha.
I have not tried any of the tinted indoor oils. I re-finished my workshop door with the outdoor UV oil a few days ago and even the postman has stopped to comment how nice it looks. Peter
I have tried different waxes on the kitchen oak worktop. Kitchen is heavily used and additionally the sink is installed under the worktop. My wife was killing the all waxes. Osmo Oil is the winner. Very good and still no wear.
Hi Sigismund, I am so sorry that I have only just discovered your question - please forgive me. I find that a rub with a lint free cloth after about 24 hours leaves everything just right. Peter
Hi peter , I’ve worked with a lot of idigbo for years . It’s a night mare if water gets under the top coat . Goes black and wownt sand out . Will be interesting to see how the gate fares up with osmo . I recon it’s the best stuff that money can buy. Just starting using poly x and iam impressed so farb
Hi Terry, That house changed hands and I drove past the other day and noticed that the new owners had not had any treatment done on the gate and it does have some black spots appearing under the Osmo. Cheers. Peter
To be honest peter I only use idigbo for painting . I’ve seen a lot of water damage over the years . It’s the same as American white oak you never use it for external joinery would use European oak if it’s external
Great review! I have an outdoor teak table that is really showing some wear. I plan to give the outdoor UV poly x a shot on the under side first and if it looks good the top will get some as well.
Hi Gary, The UV PolyX is really good. I did a test and found that it works well and it is very easy to give it a thin extra coat after a year to bring back to 100%. Peter
Hi peter, Thanks for taking the time to do the samples on camera it has helped me decide on the product I'll be using on my oak front door, side light and frame, it looks like there is very little difference in colour change in the 420 and 425 is this so ?
Hi Jim, There is a chance although I think I have only used the one type. I would not mix the two but I see no reason why one could not be used on top of the other when redoing a piece after a couple of years. Good luck. Peter
Love the reviews, just sanded my floorboards and do not want to have shiny laquer type finish, the area is high traffic so needs protection from footware and water. What would you recommend?
I would not hesitate to try Osmo for this but you should contact Osmo UK and check what they say. I used to live next door to a painter and decorator and he warned me against using any type of paint that forms a skin on external woodwork. Those type of finishes trap water in and that causes rot faster than anything. He put me on to Sadoline but that was long before I discovered Osmo. Send Osmo UK an email and ask about your particular situation. Peter
Hi Peter, loving your videos. Just stumbled across your channel and am now proceeding to watch all of your videos from oldest to newest. Thank you so much for making them! Do you think the Osmo top oil would be a good finish to use on cutting boards and serving platters? Many thanks, Dave
Hi Dave, I am so glad that you are enjoying the videos. Yes, Top Oil is perfect for applications in contact with food. I have used it on several chopping boards, a bread board and a wooden kitchen work top. Peter
Hi Peter, very good video. I have just used the top oil on some old oak worktops and I am thrilled with the results, the only thing I did was rub down very lightly with 240 after each coat and even after the top coat, it is very very smooth. I am now going to do my front door with the uv woodstain but I am not sure whether to use two coats of this or one coat with a top coat of the uv protection oil, any thoughts?
Hi Moleymacca, I have used the UV protection oil which has a tint (like the oak 425) but I have not tried any of the stains. I have found that you need to take care to spread the tinted oil evenly to avoid obvious brush strokes but this is actually very easy to achieve. I am sure that you could put a clear UV protection coat on top of a UV tint but do not know whether you could do the same with the stain. If in doubt send Osmo an email or phone them. They are a very helpful bunch. Thank you for your kind comments. Peter
Hi Peter, nice video. How durable are the external osmo oils? Looking to treat sleeper wall that i'm just planing/sanding now, and want to know what i'm in for in terms of reapplication of the osmo products. Thanks. Mike
Thanks for posting this video its given me confidence, Im just about to use Osmo 420 on our new full height oak A frames...rather nervous :-/ I want to retain the honey oak colour for as long as possible. I hope this does the job as the site is very extreme, south facing, exposed and windy. I'll let you know!
Hello Peter, quick question if I may. In your opinion would there be a preferred choice for a kitchen table top between Osmo Top Oil and Osmo Poly-X? Thank you in advance, all the best. Dave.
Hi Dave, If the table is to be used for food preparation like a kitchen work top then Top Oil would be recommended. However, I would prefer the finish of PolyX. Both oils can be spot repaired with a local rub down with 150 grit and a wipe of oil on a cloth. Peter
Thanks Peter, I followed your recommendations and bought Osmo Top Oil for my wooden benchtop. Please could I ask you a question, I wasn't able to find an answer anywhere. I must have applied the first coat too thick,24 hours ago,now the worktop feels sticky. I used a brush, but did not wipe any excess after 30min which seems to be recommended with other oils. I don't know what to do now. Do you think it will dry with time or do I need to sand it? Your help would be much appreciated!
Hi Peter, love your videos, very informative. Question about the Osmo products, do you think its a good idea to use something like this on the insides of plywood drawers in the kitchen? I absolutely love the look of the veneer on the drawers and it seems to me that scratches and stuff would be a pain to restaurate once you have a polyurethane or something on there. I figured maybe you'd have a bit of advice to share on this. Thanks Wesley
gssns Hi Wesley, I have used Osmo PolyX on the inside of many drawers. I have not tried it on kitchen drawers which will take a lot of knocks. The beauty of Osmo is that if it gets scratched a bit you can easily put some more on just where the scratch is and it will be fine. Sounds worth a try. Many thanks for the kind words. Peter
Thanks!! do you work for Osmo Company? or only work with Osmo products? I´m distributor Osmo in Chile and work for LA, like technical support. big product no? greetings!!
Hi Peter, thanks for all your information, very valuable. Question about the Osmo uv oil, I treated some oak window frames and a bench and through the summer they have gone patchy, and looks as though there is no treatment in places. It was all sanded, windows were new, the bench was old and stripped and sanded. Just wondered if there is somethings big I have missed. I love the products and have great results with the door oil, but not so thrilled externally. Thanks again for your work.
+Mark Gascoigne Hi Mark, I have used the UV Clear and UV Oak. One was a set of 5 bar gates and the other an oak bench. Both seemed to need a touch-up coat after about 9 months and I think it was due to standing water on the flat surfaces. Anyway, I gave them both a second coat (it took next to no time) and they looked great straight away. The oak bench was done about a year ago and still looks fine. The gate looks weathered as a gate should and so will not get any more attention just yet. I hope this helps. Peter
+New Brit Workshop (Peter) Hi Peter, thanks for your response. I suppose I was just puzzled by the pattern of the patchiness(is that a real word!). But the standing water certainly makes sense on the bench. I will go for the additional coat as you suggest and see what happens. I love the products, how the wood looks and the ease of application, so all good. Just thought I'd ask you the question as you had used it in similar applications. Thanks again.
Dear Mr Parfitt, Firstly, thank you for posting your very informative videos. I am tempted to use Osmo Top Oil to re-cover an 1890s oak table, which is currently languishing under some lurid polyurethane. You mentioned using an Osmo product to refurbish an oak table in on eof your videos but I cannot find that on the table. Grateful if you could direct me to it as I would like to know if you think it suitable for a dining table. Also grateful if you know if beeswax furniture polish is useful as a top coat over Osmo. Thanks in anticipation, Jos Wheatley
Hi Joe, I think the "refurbish" bit is to do with how easy it is to touch up (or repair) an Osmo finish buy just tackling the damaged area. This means that pieces do not need to be completely re-worked after a mishap. I have not tried to use hard wax on top of Osmo. I am sure that Osmo would not recommend it but if the Osmo had been well cured (say after 3 months) then you could try it. Hard waxes have to go onto a stable surface that is fully cured. Peter
Hi Jean, I am not employed or associated with Osmo. I am an independent reviewer who happens to believe that Osmo have one of the finest ranges of oil products available. I have tested many of their indoor and outdoor products and like them all. You are welcome to link my Osmo videos on your web site if that will help you. Peter
I'm about to buy a Festool MFT3 table which will be stored in an outside garden shed. Is there an Osmo product that would be best suited for this task please? Hope you didn't waste the plonk! Thanks, Al.
+ALBERT GOODALL Hi Albert, Any of the Osmo oils will do - I use whatever I have. Also, after applying Osmo I use up what is in the brush or on the cloth by spreading it on my bench top. Peter
Hi, I have decided to use Osmo for sure but can you recommend which product for birch ply, box window reveals we’ve just had fitted? I’m thinking UVIWAX UV-Protection. It is proving difficult to find a store that keeps stock of this product or anyone who has tried it apart from untothislast who produce lovely plywood furniture, so I’m definitely leaning towards it. Next would be the colour as I want to keep as natural and non-yellow as possible, without whitening. There is a choice of ‘clear - 7200’ or ‘white spruce transparent - 7266’. I want it to have as little sheen as possible and feel natural to touch. Sample pots to order would incur a £15 delivery apparently so not that easy or cost conscious to test really! The wood obviously needs UV protection as they frame windows but 2 very large windows are south facing and bake! Any advise welcome. Many thanks.
Hi Saaptey, This is in the region beyond my Osmo experience but do not despair. Osmo have a technical team who can give you the exact advice that you seek and it is free. Just go to their web site and you will find it. Perhaps after you have used whatever they recommend you could report back on the whole experience. Good luck. Peter
Peter I am getting Western Red Cedar cladding fitted to my town houseI want to darken it down a bit but not change the colour too much Any suggestions on which Osmo product would be best to use?Cheers
Hi Lewis, Osmo have so many outdoor coloured stains that I would suggest that you talk to your local Osmo supplier. They get Osmo training and will have a better knowledge of the full range than me - I have only tried a few of their products. Good luck. Peter
Hi Martin, The problem with both varnish and paint is that once water gets through a crack in the coating it cannot easily get out again and that is when the problems start. With Osmo it is easy to repair a minor areas of damage before it becomes an issue. Peter
Hi Martin, Yes, and remember that each year you need to check for any damage to the surface and do a local spot repair if necessary. That only requires a very light sand in the area of concern and a quick brush on of some more oil to cover the area that has been sanded. I would re-oil the whole of an outdoor piece every 2 years. Peter
Hi Michelangelo, I have used Top Oil on several cutting boards that I have made and it works very well. Despite the one that we have being used quite a lot it has not needed a further coat of Top Oil despite some quite rough treatment over the last 3 years. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Passa a italiano Hi Peter, I used Osmo Top Oil natural on a top of a beech island. I gave two hands with a cotton cloth 12 hours apart. In your opinion are they sufficient or according to I have to give others? Thank you
Hello great review, I have osmo topoil and have sanded down to 320. On instructions it say sand down to 150. I want a really smooth finish... Not sure what to do now..
airjaff I have sanded down to 240 grit before using Top Oil and had no problem. Perhaps if you give it a try - it may take longer to soak in as the surface is so smooth and therefore you should try not to put on too much on the first coat. Perhaps if you brush on and wipe off with a lint free cloth. Peter
New Brit Workshop thank you for the swift response Peter :) I've just put on the first cloth, did it with a link free cloth, also used a dry one to take of the excess, I think I have a thin layer on, took absolutely ages getting the first coat on. It's looks pretty good, got stroke marks on it right now but hoping that will resolve once dried and second coat has been put on.
airjaff The slight brush or wipe marks normally disappear when the first coat is dry. If they persist and are too much for you to bear then use some of your 320 grit on a hand sanding block and very gently "kiss" the area where the marks persist - do not rub hard. Peter
@@NewBritWorkshop Hi Peter, thanks for the advice you gave me, it's a product that interests me a lot and I'll try it as soon as I can. If I can I ask you two more information: is it true that it smells bad? Finally, do you advise me to use a brush or a cotton cloth? Thank you
Hi Michelangelo, No it does not smell bad and you can use either a brush or a cloth however, my advice is to use several thin layers wioed off with a cloth each time. Peter
Well, that video was made about 10 years ago with an old camera and no sound kit - since then I have saved hard and now have Sony Professional audio equipment. Peter
