T-shirts available at dangarmarine.com.au/collectio... Post photos of you wearing your shirt to @dangarstu on Instagram! All music available at soundscloud.com/dangarstu
Brother..you are the best..you have the patients to be the best mechanic possible..you always make things more easy.. Just wish you was in my area. Thanks.
Thanks for taking the time to demystify the control box Stu! Just like when you made a video about tear down of a lower unit, seems scary in there until you see how it all fits together. Great video as always! 👍
Hello, excellent video, it helped me a lot to disassemble and grease the morce of my Honda BF90. Greetings from Argentina and thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Awesome video. Working on my Honda control. Its having some issues with binding cables seem fine but something is binding the rev lever up. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the great video. I wish I'd had it when I pulled ours apart ... the digital workshop manual is fine but nothing like seeing it done! Now to go looking for that friction screw!
Stu - where would you go shopping to buy an extension main wiring cable for a 1996 carburetted BF45? It needs the 14 pin round plug at the motor end and a bunch of small plugs to connect to ignition switch, indicator lights, tilt/trim etc at the forward control end.
Thanks for sharing I the video is older but helpful for me and I know this isn’t a OMC but you do work on them and those videos have helped me work on my Johnson ocean pro 130 it’s a 99 with only 335 hours of saltwater when I bought it low hours and many years of sitting at the dock soaking in salt needless to say it’s a work in progress and you have helped thank you
Thank you for your videos. I learn a lot from them. Great light, camera shots at good angles (no hands in the way of the camera, etc.). I'm looking for a video on how to properly set the throttle cable and cam thing on a Honda BF40A outboard. I took off the carbs to clean them and now my idle and such is a little out of whack. In the cam where the screw is, there's a spring that has a little loop in it. Not sure if I reattached it back correctly. Also, I don't know how to adjust the linkages and such to make it go full throttle. When I press forward on my controls to full throttle, it's not full throttle at the cam. It's just short of that little corner to where it will go full throttle if that makes sense. I can't find a single video anywhere on YT on how to set these linkages proper. I can't believe it. All those Honda 4-stroke outboards out there and no videos on the subject. I see old 2-stroke videos on super old motors, but nothing on the BF series Hondas or Yamahas for that matter. Maybe there is one and you can point me to it or you can make one, that would be great. Thanks again.
Hi Stu - just a quick tip for some. I was putting my forward controls back together after flipping it from a right to left side configuration and I couldn't get it to slow idle. After the third attempt I spied a little bush. One of the pins was supposed to run in the bush inside the mechanism. When the bush and pin were re-united I got my slow idle back again.
Love ya vids mate! I'm having issues with my ignition key barrel and safety lanyard/kill switch. It's a Yamaha 60hp 2stroke 94 model. First symptom was an intermittent ignition(would turn the key but no starter motor) then wriggle the key and it would work) Now the key starts the motor but won't turn the motor off. It keeps running with the key all the way out of the ignition and the lanyard off. Have to disconnect the fuel line to stop her lol I haven't yet removed and had a look... Any advice would be appreciated 👍✌
Thanks Stu...had my tohatsu/merc 30 old forward control apart recently and that's how it has stayed.... apart. Now I have a better idea as to how to rebuild it. Great to see you back under the house mate..nice atmosphere. A little lost without the tap going off in the background though hehe
Let me know how you go getting it back together. The only real trick is that things can be a fraction of a millimetre out and just won't click into place. I'd like to clean up the old workshop and start using it a bit again, particularly during the day when there is better light.
Hey Stu, Quick question. I have a 2006 Yamaha 40hp 4 stroke outboard motor and I noticed there is some oil in the bottom cylinder. Do you think my valve stems are bad? Compression is even on 3 cylinders. Thanks! -Eric
Hi Eric, can I butt in line here and comment/ask questions about your situation? I'm thinking that if anything, it might be worn valve guides before the actual valve stems themselves, but I'm curious about what sort of treatment the engine sees in service. Does it do an awful lot of idling, or very, very light work where it's not under heavy or full load? I ask that thinking that under heavy, hot operating conditions, the oil should be burning off with the heat. I'm surprised you're finding it inside a cylinder. Must be fouling the plug something fierce. How is the level of lube oil in the sump? If you are finding amounts of it in the cyl, the level in the sump must be going down. You say that compression is even across all cyls, it would lead one to think that the rings are in good shape, but if excessive amounts of oil are getting by the oil-scraper ring, it would get into the compression rings and artificially "boost" the compression readings, the way that when doing a compression test "dry" vs "wet" by adding a few teaspoons to a cylinder would yield a higher reading immediately. My guess would be a bad scrape ring, but I would hold on, see if Stuart has something to say from his experience with Yamaha outboards. He might have run into this before. I'm just going by theory, I'm more of an armchair outboard enthusiast, whereas Stu is hands-on. Best of luck with the problem.
Hi Eric, great to hear from you, sorry it's taking me so long to get to comments these days. Stan is right with what he is saying. I would also add valve stem seals into the equation, not just the guides though. Does the oil collect after the outboard has been sitting for a while? Did you have the head off when you saw it or just looking through the spark plug hole? Really can only be rings, valves or head gasket.
The sound used to be rubbish, that's for sure. I'm tempted to re-film some of the those old videos so new viewers don't have to suffer through straining to hear.
Come on, Stu. That's sacrilege right there. You can't just take classic stuff and re-do it. Well, physically you could, but it would be tantamount to someone saying that really old movies from the past should be destroyed and re-made. And you know how re-makes seem to turn out (conjuring up Michael Bay explosion-laden disasters). Lmao...... but seriously. No. If a student wants to learn from a teacher, there will be some suffering in the beginning. Some things just aren't meant to be monkeyed with :)
Hi Stu. Thanks for a great video and explanation. I recently purchased a Nitro 190 DC with an old Mercury 200 ProMax from 1994. I have a problem with the hand throttle not holding constant speed. It gradually reduces the speed slowly unless I leave my right hand holding it down. Can I adjust that? Many thanks and hope for a reply. Jonas Olsson
hi stu i have the exact same one and i to had trouble with mine i was worried but got it back together again but as always you detail this so well keep the vids coming cheer
Hi again Stu ! Do you know what kind of a control box I can use on my 82 Mariner 60 hp (Japan) . Having problems finding the right one. I somehow know Yamaha has simular parts. Hope you know Stu ?
I have been watching your videos a lot lately. I have learned so much about my boat and working on it thanks to you. Keep up the good work. I do have a question. I am rebuilding a 1993 pontoon boat with a mercury force 75hp outboard. The initial throttle control was a side mounted control. However I bought a new console that has a spot for a top mount throttle control. Is it a problem to switch to a top mount throttle?
Yet another great video Stu. I have the same one on my bf130 and my battery indicator light recently went from intermittently on when I turn the ignition on to not coming on at all. I've tested the indicator light by connecting it to a battery and it lights up fine so I thinking I have to work backwards now by doing a continuity test from the white and blue battery indicator connection wire in the remote to the alternator next.
Thanks Stephen, sounds like you've got the right approach to finding the problem. All you can ever do is slowly isolate and test one piece of the system at a time. Eventually you'll find the culprit!
Dangar I'm hoping you can help me out. I have twin yamaha's and my forward controls are not opening the throttles at the same rate. They start out fine at first but then the more you give it gas the larger the discrepancy between throttles. When I run at high speed the right handle has to be more forward that the left for both engines to have the same rpm. I thought at first that the throttle/cable parts/levers on the outboards could be loose or worn out. But they are fine. Both have been synchronized at neutral and at idle. Both idle at 700 rpm.
Hi Anthony, good question. With a tiller you generally have separate gear and throttle controls. This means that you can rev the engine in neutral without going anywhere. With forward controls as soon as you push the throttle forward it goes into gear so the fast idle is a lever that lets you increase the revs without selecting a gear too.
I really appreciate your vids. I have a 95 evinrude 30 hp. I had to manually use the throttle to get back to boat ramp tonight. I could put it in reverse put when I put it in Forward the engine stalled right away. I had to disconnect the throttle cable and push the throttle with stick to go forward. Please help if you can. I do remember yesterday I did have to pull the cable to get to the throttle because I was trying to get to some wires that were snaked in the same housing as the throttle.
Hello master of mechanic😁.I have in my mind a project that has one board and 3 servo motors(throttle,steering,gear)Can you lock a position (like minn Kota does) and the board can give rules to the servo motors to be all the time at the same place you have locked?Thank you very much.
Hey Stu I have a prib with My OMC FIR EVINRUDE 90HP OUTBOARD MOTOR . When I out my shifter in reverse works perfect when put in forward on low gear works great and when up to half throttle works good too. But when I am shifting to high on the shifter or gear box it's revs up goes to move then sounds like I'm revving in neutral can you tell me the probs. Thought it was motor prob had 1st and second motors completely rebuilt so has the he shifter controlled but what help b4 I sink my boat ty
Hi Stu, I have the same honda control and mine also does not have the trim button. Howerver, I purchased the trim button and would like to install it on the handle. How do I need to run the wires through the handle into the control box without creating any friction between the handle turning and the wires running through them?
That was a great in helping me how controllers work. is there smaller controllers on the market. I wish to control my new 5hp Tohatsu in a Hobie Angler Pro 17 footer.
7am here and Tuesdays are our day off. So what are my wife & I doing during our breakfast in bed? Watching Stu (on the laptop) pull apart a forward control...........LOL. Thanks for the vid Stu :)
Nice to see the "old" workshop again! Thanks, Stu, for an excellent look inside a fwd control. Coincidentally, I have experience with a Honda f.c. very similar to that one, with working tilt/trim. I often wondered how they did that forward/backward motion yet still accurately control throttle. Some really smart dude somewhere must be well on his way to a comfortable retirement after figuring out a lobe/channel/cam mechanism to accomplish all those motions, packed into a compact control. Anyways, my question is a bit vague, but you didn't begin to re-assemble in this video, so I wonder if you intended to so that sometime later, if not, which type of grease (in general) would be best for lubing things inside? I'm guessing a lithium stearate (or white lithium grease) might be the best choice. I'm disappointed on one hand, but happy on the other hand, that you didn't find wasps (or worse) inside the casing. Is it possible that that control either sank in a muddy river, or saw service on some type of mud-bog-traversing vehicle? Lol... Please pass along encouragement to your neighborhood saxomaphonist. We all need to get a little more sax into our lives. Also, extra points for capturing the sound of trains over the bridge in the distance. You really pack a lot into your videos, some of it unplanned, lol. Spring for us, Autumn for you there? All the best from Eastern Ontario, Canada.
Hey Stan, I reckon you're right about whoever owns the patent on these systems. Lithium based greases are always a good choice for marine work. The Honda service manual says to use molybdenum grease but no one can ever pronounce it to ever buy any. It's Autumn here now and starting to get colder. Well done on recognising the sound sounds of the train going over the bridge. I'm impressed! :)
I remember a video you did, out at the dock, one sunny day some time ago, and gave you kudos then for including a train in your video. You just seem to have a talent for getting more into your videos than you set out to do at the start. That, or you're the smoothest cat on YT, slipping all that extra content into your vids to see what gets past the viewers..... Molybdenum grease up here is commonly shortened to just "molly" because yes, it's easier to say. It is popular, too. It's like a graphite-laden grease, and graphite powder is common too, for dry-lubricating particularly where it can get very hot. Going for grease for keeping away moisture, I would choose a lithium if the area stayed relatively clean, or for a filthy environment, I'd choose a cheapo grease, especially if it was being greased often. I think a moly grease is a good choice for extreme-pressure needs. If people find molybdenum tough to pronounce, they should just be glad they don't have to speak to that Bibendum fellow at their local Michelin outlet :D
Ah yes, I remember that comment! Theoretically the inside of forward controls should stay pretty clean and dry. Having seen how the mud is right through this one I'm pretty sure it must have come from a sunk motor.
Are controls pretty standard from engine to engine if they don't need wiring? I have a 2007 Yamaha 40 2 stroke. Could I use Johnston Controls for it do you think? I don't have power trim or electric start so literally just need the throttle cables to work.
Gidday mate I've got a mercury 881170a13 control and I can't find any instructions on how to put it together after I pulled it all apart to clean and regrease it I have a 2006 mercury 2 stroke 60hp bigfoot Motor
Mate, I have a Honda BF130, there is a switch that is a solenoid, it appears to be a"choke" above the ignition, I have no idea why its there. I never had to switch it on to start my motor. Also my BF130 has man types of remote controls and ignition controls over the 2000-2004 years and some have it and some don't. Makes no sense since its fuel injected 4 stroke...
I want to correctly redirect the cables to control box on my boats console (they ran cables through consoles front open doorway instead of running cables through side, so a door that helps with water an electrical fuses, etc.
morning mate hope you are doing well just wondering what website or where do I get parts for I'm.in the sunshine coast like the plastic bits you were talking about I'm restoring exactly the same control box you are doing any advise would be helpful plus I love ur videos very detailed and informative thanx mate
i have the same control system, but my control is for a right hand seating position, my boat is a left seat position, so can i just remove the gear lever and swap it to the other side, thank you, hope that makes sense.
I have a Johnson 1984 140hp and I find at the engine end of the throttle cable the cable end moves quite delayed when moving rote control. I find after putting remote into gear half the forward motion of the remote doesn't increase revs. Revs only increase after pushing remote more than half way through range. Is this a bad throttle cable ?
Hi sorry to bust in but loving your videos !! Can you tell me why you don't use Suzuki I have a DT90 V4 1989-90 is this a good or bad engine or anything to look out for P.s newbie at this so not sure how to private message Also I've just gone to use it for the first time this season and found the steering seized up !! Only had a new steering cable fitted 2 years ago or less wish I watched your vids and done it myself! Does this sound like the tilt tube to you ?? Thanks again and thanks for your amazing videos please keep posting 👍🏼 Darren Also I have to tube coming from the speedo pick up pilot hole at the foot of the motor is this a easy fix are shall I install an external pickup ?
get a hammer and a block of wood with some lithium grease get two guys one on the wheel and one on the steering arm and slowly work that girl loose….lesson every fortnight go and turn the engine a few times.
Thanks for the video. Please can you tell me the cause of the problem. I removed the battery terminal while the engine was running. The alarm on throttle controls started beeping and since then, it has not gone off. In the beginning, while I was not touching anything, when I make contact, it beeps briefly and goes out. I start the engine and don't whistle anymore. Please can you tell me the problem. Where the problem arose. Thank you very much in advance for your reply.
I’ve got a issue with my 2006 Honda 20hp with that exact controls and was hoping by troubleshooting it and a few other electrical parts I could get my motor. I have seen it running before I removed it to paint the boat. The motor fell over and the cables kept it from falling over and landing hard on its side. I noticed it maybe a few hours later and stood the motor back up. But since then no power AT ALL at forward controls so that I can start the motor. This is my first boat and want to go fishing with my son so badly! Again it was running before the motor fell over. Please help
hi stu, i am wondering if you could please do a video on installing a tach, from scratch? im trying to get the tach in my boat working and it would be extremely helpful. i have a 80hp 1979 800 merc with mercontrol foward control.. btw loving your vids, very informative , saved me lots of $, cheers =)
legend!, i ended up fixing mine, turns out the previous owner had the signal wire and the power wire mixed up and it was connected wrong, gotta love easy fixes like that!, i also have a psi gauge that doesnt work any thoughts and suggestions? i have traced everything back to the engine and it seems connected etc, mayby a faulty sensor?
I have a Honda 50 hp and the controls are having an issue. If I’m going full speed in forward or reverse and back off to neutral, the fast idle shaft will raise up and keep the motor revved up. I have to manually lower the throttle lever back down every time. I’m hoping to avoid replacing the whole control assembly. Any thoughts?
Nice video Stu, just about to rebuild my forward controls as I've lost reverse and neutral although it's a little older than your one with the forward, neutral and reverse controlled with 3 connected push switches. Thinking about using an Arduino and few parts from jaycar to replace the rather hard to find and expensive omc switch control unit should be an interesting project.
Cliff, so you have a 72/73 electric shift outboard? If the leg solenoids are definitely OK (they usually fail first) then a simple 3 pole , double ganged switch should do the job.
Yeah I've got a 72' Evinrude 100hp with electric shift, actually that's what I've done for interim but I'm really worried about accidentally bumping the switch and changing gears when in full throttle which I image could do really bad things. So I'm thinking about using the Arduino to control the process of switching gears eg. not change gears unless the throttle is in any other point but idle, always going into neutral before going into forward or reverse, maybe even having a delay between gear changes to allow the gearbox to slow before change gears, as well as lighting with switches to indicate what gear I'm in.
I am hopeless at programming, I can do it, but it is never pretty . I tend to spend too much effort in dumb operator checking routines. Arduino would be an interesting way to go, but filter the power supply big time, those alternators are extremely spikey (lots of ignition spikes in it) as clean power for chargingthe battery was not really a major consideration of the day back in 72. If it was mine I would go with self latching relays, a rotary selector switch ( hard to bump those) and use the start in neutral switch power (it switches power even if the engine is already running) to supply power to switch the leg solenoids only when in neutral. LED indicators would be an easy addition. PM me if you like.
Hi Thanks for another great post, I know this is an older post but just a quick ask for advice. I have a friend with a BF10 honda fitted with this type of remote it all looks good condition and very low hours. I have disconnected cables both ends and they both move freely with no issues. The outboard end again with cables disconnected moves forward reverse and throttle again with the expected amount of resistance. same with the controller end all works as it should. How ever when all connected up the throttle is stiff going into the gears is normal but then a lot of effort is required to increase speed. the friction adjustment moves freely and it moves as it should it is completely backed off. what I have noticed and confused about is with cables connected on throttle end the outboard gear cable has a throw of from neutral 35-40 mm to reverse and similar forward. But the gear leaver engine end seems to have a throw of 20mm to reverse and 20mm to forward this seems to cause the stiffness ? this is about 8 yrs old but very low hours they came together. Is there any adjustment to set these up ? on some other makes like morse there are often 2 connection points for shorter and longer throw however the honda unit doesn't seem to have this?? any ideas ? I hope I have explained thus well, everything looks new and is well lubed.
If you are letting the revs drop down to idle in neutral before selecting a gear and then selecting the gear quickly and it still happens, check this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B4acSf_BgP4.html
i have a issue we my 1995 yamaha 90 2 stroke running foward they dont go more that 3500 RPM I remove the oil tank mixer i mix the oil we gas now ,i change the spark plugs i clean the carburattors ,i change the fuel line ,the prime i clean the little filter inside the motor,i check the fuel pump don have any hole on the diagfragm the compression on all 3 cillinder is 140 on each cilinder and is working better but not more than 3500 RPM, I dont know if is the CDI SAFE MODE or any other Issue,can you o any person here can help me PLEASE. Thanks
Way off topic but just wanted to know your thoughts on decarbing outboards with various products and the pros/cons you may have experienced with decarbing. Mostly just seafoam products over here in the us and it sometimes seems like it may do more harm than good depending who your talking to and the overall health and spec of the outboard. Have you ever tried running those types of products and what were your results?
Personally I've never used anything like that. I've heard some plain water can do the trick, but I've never come across a motor that needs it. The boats we get are used for commuting back and forth from the island so they very really idle for long at all. Perhaps they is why they never have too much carbon.
My OMC evinrude throttle does the same stopping 3/4 in forward, does it supposed to go all the way forward as this one? was afraid id break throttle arm.
I was driving a boat yesterday that had a Johnson outboard on it and only went 3/4 of the way forward so this could be normal for that model of forward control. Does the outboard reach full RPM?
The motor revs up, im not really sure how many RPM, the control box has 3 notches, id say 12 oclock neutral, and 10 oclock 2 oclock, its old and plastic gears. Thanks for getting back on this, im not positive it came standard with boat.
10 , 12 and 2 o'clock positions are the detent for engaging/disengaging the gears- all normal there. The throttle lever only goes a few degrees past the 2 o'clock position (reverse) - you cannot get full throttle in reverse by design. Full forward the lever on most engines will go about the 75-80 degree mark and not feel like it is all the way forward, that's normal. The lever on the control box has more throw than the lever on the engine ( it is a design mismatch) , but only on outboards. The control box was also used on the stern drive range and I get the feeling it was biased towards them for operating range.
The OMC controls cable levers use a pin in a groove on the throttle lever 'drum' to control things. Neutral start switch in in the control box. The OMC control also only allows about 1/3 to 1/2 throttle in reverse, which until I read the manual and found that info , meant I spent nearly 2 days trying to get equal throw from the throttle cable in forward and reverse. One thing in the video, that sound of sand and corrosion grinding in the control box made me cringe :-) Another good 'demystifying' video Stu, thanks. As an aside, do you guys have anyone that rebushes carb butterfly shafts? Mine have about 1mm of play - which is of course a massive air leak . Some thing to add to the carb rebuild video notes maybe- no use installing a kit or rebuilding carbs with butterfly shafts flopping around - and with old engines such as mine and no replacement carbs available - that could be the 'write off' item for the engine.
Hey Ron, can't say I've ever seen a carb with the shaft worn like that, but I'm sure someone will be able to fix it up. I'll grab an old one in the workshop and pull it apart to see what they are like. I wonder if a machinist could turn something up that you could heat and then shrink fit back onto the shaft?
Quite common that the steel shaft wears away the alloy pivot hole. After 40 years of use it has to be expected. Kadrons on VW engines are renowned for this issue. I will drill, fill and redrill the carbs if I cannot find a good replacement. I use brass rod, and for these roughly 1/4" shafts I will use 10mm brass rod to rebush the carbs. It is a fiddly job so I prefer to get some one else to do it :-)
Dangar Stu, I'm needing to replace my control box on my mercury setup, it's just too far gone, My current setup uses an 8 pin harness, and I seem to be unable to source one of these control boxes, is it possible for me to save the harness out of my current control box, and splice it into a newer 14 pin control box? Thanks
Yep, that should definitely be possible. You might be missing the odd alarm or something, but all the basic ignition wires will have a direct crossover.
That's cool, All I'm looking for is ignition, trim tilt and maybe down the track a tacho. Thanks for your advice, been watching your videos for a little over a month, and it's definitely helped me out in setting up my new (to me) boat, it was a complete mess when I got it, hoping to have it finished by christmas.
cdi electronics.com has an 8 pin harness for the engine side and boat side. cdi part no. 414-8672 & 474-9560. Remote control with neuteral interlock is also availible. part no. 8M0059686. on amozon.com
Thanks! I am having a hard time figuring out how to get my throttle cable adjusted on a yamaha 703 model control box. I saw your video on changing the push pull style, but I can get mine to match up and even with an almost completely extended throttle cable and ends turned out as far as logical, I have about 3 inches to go to get to where they need to meet the connection on the outboard. I just took this motor off of a hull that had damage and put it on another hull. I had to change control boxes because i went from a center console with top mount controls to a 703 style side mount. Any help or advice is greatly appreciated. As always, I appreciate you and your great videos!!!
Bit hard to say without seeing it, but the lever I swapped in this video can jump to the wrong position. Maybe post a picture of it on the Dangar Marine Facebook page.
