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Just worship Jesus, but I'll sign up for the virtual hug, Bob!!!! 😉 And I Tweeted my support to 13,100 people. You do great vids, keep it up! @The_L_Humphreys
When applying thermal compound you do not want to trap air, as it is obviously not a good conductor of heat. its best to make either a line or drop in the middle then push together till it squeezes out the edge. The best stuff i found is the theremal epoxy from the tech ingredients youtube channel. They sell it on ebay. Let me know if you need more information.
@@MichaelMantion You are absolutely correct. This ssr isn't as critical as a CPU, and was significantly larger than a CPU's lid, so I just went with the slather and go approach. When I build my editing rig I used arctic silver (with the proper application technique lol). I wish tech ingredients compound was around back when I built it. How are your temps with it compared to other thermal compounds?
When the elements burn, and I sadly think they will, look up nicrome /kenthal wire on Amazon. A hundred feet is like 10$ for 24 guage or 20 guage. You can spin new elements similar to kiln type and get a high enough resistance to run them, and have a higher temp rating. Use the lathe and dowel method slow speed to wind em and it's how I make my shitty kiln run
ProCactus well, heat isn't good for any solid state device, so keep them cool. Just a joke - don't know as much as a pro, and you're not going to keep anything cool inside an overclocked toaster oven. Heavy gauge wire and mounting the relay elsewhere (not in the oven) would help.
I'm currently doing a similar build with an old toaster oven right now, but I'm making it into a reflow oven. I was super confused as to how the temperature control in the oven worked (mine uses the same method as yours). I appreciate you taking the time to explain it, it's actually quite ingenious even if less reliable.
So I decided my old toaster oven needed replacing because it was looking pretty old (still working but ugly). So I bought a new one and now I have a toaster oven for the shop. And suddenly I remembered this wonderful video. I already have the materials from building a forge just like yours. Needless to say, mega toasting is in my future!
Imagine trying to pitch this to any network - "So, I buy a $10 toaster to take apart and rebuild it better. People will LOVE IT!! So what do you think?..." 😅 But somehow its entertaining as always. 👍🏼
Haha I was literally thinking that the other day. I could kind of see Mythbusters doing something similar, but that's about it. Or of course junkyard wars back in the day
@@ElementalMaker still high quality as always... Hope everyone's feeling better! Oh, also, I kno u use patreon but they might be in some legal/financial trouble, may wanna look into Subscribestar. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Px46aTSuX2g.html
Yes, but does it result in classic lines like "The sausage roll has malfunctioned"? ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JBEEgkuowH4.html And ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Ekjt_HuLD9w.html
This is pretty neat, I am planning on building something like this, not to get to such a high temp, just be more accurate in order to temper 3d print builds. Some of the instructions i have found use exactly the same PID you did. So its nice to see a video implementing pretty much the exact same thing.
I made one for Decarboxylating . I use an old gutted PC power supply (box) and it's fan to cool the SSR. All in one deal PID controller, SSR, cooling fan with power switch. Use the oven timer to prevent stuck SSR.
Entertaining and informative as always! I love your 'color commentary' and humor. Can't wait to see what you do with this. Hope you and the family are better from your illness.
I did check my subs list for you yesterday as I thought we were due some entertainment. Sorry to hear about the family getting sick. I managed to get out last week so that's 4 times this year that I manage t get past the front door!. Stay safe ( I am)
VERY good advice on the use of an SSR with those PID's, or at least an external relay. I''ve had several of them fail catastrophically. The mechanical relays they fit inside them are WAY under spec and poor quality. One memorable one was driving only a 400w load and failed in short order. When the contacts tried to open they were partially welded shut, eventually the heat generated melted them open again but because they were red hot and deformed the resultant arc didn't clear and set the entire unit on fire.
Seriously dude... My reaction was the same.... I checked his and AvE's channel so many times to look out for similarities... They both are different persons... 😅
I would add a "Thermal link" or two. Most appliances these days often incorporate them. Loved the thermal transfer link for temp sensing, original thinking. Often the UL requires these in transformers, usually buried deep in the windings and when they trip, blow the insulation of the transformer has been heat stressed out of specification and are no longer UL compliant. Hence their location.
Glad you're safe. Was just thinking about you a few days ago, wondering how you were doing. The virus has taken so many lives and I'm glad your family aren't contributing to those numbers. Take your time on the uploads. We want you safe. But if you do burn down your house, catch it on video will ya? Edit out the parts the insurance adjusters want, of course.
Welcome back always appreciate your videos. Though I always laugh when people say 100 is hot, that is considered a break in the heat here in AZ. Phoenix hit 118 the other day.
I am planning on picking up a toaster oven for powder coating some projectiles and while I don't need to worry about any of this for that it's always nice to see how things work in case I ever do need to ramp things up. I was just thinking if this doesn't work out for you I imagine you could probably get a lee lead pot for pretty cheap and that would definitely get up to temp for ya. Anyhow keep up the good work.
I got a real nice big convection toaster oven for the same purpose. It was too nice and has been serving kitchen duty instead. I might give it new life with this video though. Great idea.
Very good build bro 👍🏻i think i may do the same . I will be making a propane forge but i want a controllable temp forge as well and i think this might be the right design !
700 degrees eh? I'm thinking you're not going to be making toast with this oven. Either that or just made the world's fastest cooking toaster oven. Anyway, glad to see a new video and that you are doing well.
Chinesium SSR's invariably at the low price end are almost always going to be an 8A Triac and a zero cross switch salvaged from some ewaste, and then get the label applied saying 10A, 16A, 25A or 32A, irrespective of the parts used inside. They might have actually used a screw or rivet to attach the device, but have been known to just leave it with a blob of thermal paste and a mica washer as heat transfer method and insulation. They are also known to use non insulated tab triacs and rivet or screw them down direct, so you can be glad that the wire they use inside is often thin enough to act as a fuse.
As a guy that made a DIY sous vide crock pot controller in a dollar store plastic tote, what you have done here is quality. I actually have an order or operations for connecting the thing up so as not to kill myself..
Those PID controllers are super useful. I should probably pick a couple up. Also I have wanted to something similar to this and make a dehydrator box for 3d printer filament so maybe those will be my next projects.
I don't think you need a PID controller for such an application. I just store my filament in air-tight plastic boxes in which I also drop 1-2 of those rechargeable silica pack dryers (Eva-Dry, look it up on amazon). Keeps them nice and dry.
@@stamasd8500 I found some really nice plug in rechargeable silica moisture control units at my local Aldi. Works great to keep my filament dry in a big plastic storage container.
@@stamasd8500 This would be for nylon. I store my filament in 3 large tubs that hold about 20 rolls each and a gallon of rechargeable desiccant per tub. However the nylon gains moisture so fast that I have to dehydrate it before every use even if I just left it on the printed overnight. Thats what living in a place with super high humidity will do to ya.
Well if the heating elements burn out but the rest of the components survive, you can go all Frankenstein on the next victim and just move all the innards into it. I made a humidity- and temperature-controlled meat curing chamber using 2 of those PIDs. Very useful, once you understand the pseudo-English in the manuals.
Just go grab a grill element from a small oven, and fit it in the case. Might have to make a few extra bends in it, but it will heat up faster then. Grill elements will work up to red hot fine for years, along with the bake elements, just because they are so inefficient at heat transfer otherwise. In such a small well insulated space they will actually get the whole lot up to red heat. Easy way to tell it is fine is when that aluminium tang melts off it's rivets.
great video, like the explanation on the thermostat, mine doesnt even have any metal attached to the oven body to conduct heat, they placed a metal strip on the thermostat itself and run AC on it to heat up the bimetallic strip! btw did the thermocouple placement worked for you? i placed mine on the other side and it could not go beyond 100C with my oven setpoint at 150C even though my oven thermometer are showing well beyond 150C.. then i placed the TC through the door and then it manage to go to 145C
You should play with magnatrons and see if you can replicate the happy accident that Jamie Hyneman did on Mythbusters.. He tried making a super microwave using 4 magnatrons inside a roundly 12 inch cube and one on each side and instead of heating it ended up cooling the stuff inside of it. Your rocker switch has a rocker switch.
I would really recommend putting computer fans in, to ventillate the control compartment, even with the insulation that space will get awfully hot for the PID controller if you crank up the heat and keep it at max temp for hours. The oven is gonna run much hotter than originally and the new control circuit is much less heat resistant than the original.
Awesome video, gave me the urge to take over the toaster oven as well. A quick question, what is the brand of that mini torch you used to heat the switch? Can't wait to see the next video and thanks for all of the knowledge and content.
I'm thinking the elements should be ok. Backyard Scientist did something similar with a full size electric kitchen oven a while back and got it up to 1300-1400f (786c) and melted aluminum for PLA casting. Search backyard Scientist kiln. I've been saving cpu heatsinks for years and Linus would be very proud of your compound application lmao.
No issues yet! I've ran it for extended periods over 700. It was critical to add the 120vac computer fan to the electronics side, but with that it should be A okay. Just don't ever use it in your house, I wouldn't trust this sort of thing anywhere but my detached garage.
It looks like I didn't include the side fan I installed in the video, but I recommend putting in a 120vac computer fan to keep the electronics bay cooled. I used a 90x90mm 60cfm fan I found on Amazon for cheap and works great
Just wow. Layers of wow. Wow piled on wow with a sprinkling of powdered wow. Are you related to AVE? Or did he steal his shtick from you? I'm in love!!!
One comment... if you haven't ran this yet, check the clearance of the glass door with the opening... with nearly doubling the operating temp, the glass may expand enough to interfere with the door... and may explode if it expands too much and has no place to go. Just be aware you may have flying 800F glass in your shop. Otherwise, nice build!
So I just thought of something... I'm thinking copper foil cladded on the inside could be a great thing. Copper reflects infrared very well, it doesn't even have to be shiny to work. I believe copper is used as a mirror for IR lasers. But I'm also thinking it could be too good of a mirror creating reflective hot spots but then the size of the heater elements might negate intense hot spots.
In forming your perchlorate from chlorate, if you decide to use the HCl method for destroying trace chlorates, be careful with what you might find on the web with regards to the process. I have seen it stated simply to adjust the ph to something like
@@ElementalMaker His wife divorced him, so he got depressed and stopped making videos. Eventually he recovered a little, made a few videos, and then fell for some woman in India. That made him depressed again, because she couldn't gain entry to marry him. I'm not sure what happened after that. One theory is he moved to India, married her, and is now so thoroughly pussy-whipped he's no longer allowed to make videos. :(
If the thing has a heating element at the bottom, wouldn't it be better to put the heat blanket at the bottom of the oven too? Might be slightly harder to insultate but should help a bit I guess. Beyond a few longer legs/standoffs it shouldn't make it much harder.
Wow, wish you would have gone through the PID program, I bought a kiln with that controller in it, I ended up tossing it away and used a manual reo, that pid is NOT user friendly
1) A grounding conductor must be connected to any electrical device made of a conductive casing. 2) not good that the power cord comes out of the bottom; Worth from the back wall. I'm also not sure this cable is made of two layers of coatings.
100 degrees more and you can market it as the 800 degrees mini pizza oven😂😂😂 Incase they don't have it in your area, there's a custom pizza place called 800 degrees out in Los angeles
