It's technically still summer soooo.... Anyway yeah, this video took some time! I'm looking forward to filming in a new format so we can get this car cleaned up reliable, and ready for power mods!
Hey Matt check out this condensor on Summit. Looks like it'll fit a third gen. Thanks www.summitracing.com/parts/sgt-7-4426?seid=srese1&gclid=CjwKCAjwqZPrBRBnEiwAmNJsNmy5uPOQRtxJoXkmpwWfGFsvqedpNidllHN0sjmrIw7YLZBdun8ezxoC744QAvD_BwE
www.summitracing.com/parts/sgt-7-3231 I ordered this condenser for an 89 Formula and it's parallel flow. Spectra had a design change mid year of 2019. This part number is now parallel flow without having to shell out the $300 or even the $153
Thank you so much for covering this off as I really need to deal with reinstating the AC in my 82 Indy Pace Car. The T Tops are like a glass house in Summer!
A trick I learned with these conversions, if you unplug the switch on the evaporator and look at the cycle switch you will see a set screw take a flat head and turn it counter clockwise not even a quarter turn. It will let the compressor run just alittle longer giving you a little more cold air
This video will help me out a lot. I have an 83 with a Pontiac Engine. The entire A/C system is missing. I hope to gather all the parts and get it running again. This is extremely useful as far as what to get and where it all goes. Thanks! Nice car btw.
Good instructions... I changed out the compressor, accumulator, condenser, refrigerant lines, orifice tube, flushed the evaporator, vacuumed the system and charged it up. 85 Z-28. The original orifice tube was plugged indicating contamination.
Hey Matt! Thank you so much for this information, I have a 1984 Camaro Z28 that was retrofitted by autoform, I live down in Miami and it gets really hot driving the car even with the top down. I just wanted to thank you so much for showing us how to retrofit the AC units, I've been following the channel since mid 2018 and everything you've produced has has helped me so much with the Z28. Thank you so much again!!
Hey mate with the set up on your new gauges, you have the hoses the wrong way around the ends with the kink is the end you attach to your car or A/C and the straight part is meant to go to the gauges. On the kinked end there is a little bit of brass that pressed in the valves when they are attached, the way you have will work but when you remove the fittings you will still introduce a little air into the system.
I just fixed the AC in my 90 Tracker. It ran R12 and didnt work when I got it. I replaced all the O rings, flushed the system, replaced receiver drier, put a 1500CFM fan from Summit on the condenser and charge it to factory spec. On a 80 degree day it will get down to 38F.
Nice man. Not to nit pick but when you said your making the air cold your actually removing the heat from inside the car. It is impossible to make anything cold. Everything is a transfer of heat. But still a good job none the less. Keep up the good work.
Okay I have constructive criticism as well as professional advice so bare with me if it's long. 1.) Hook up gauges and if system found flat (no freon) use air compressor (60psi) and pump up system. If leak cannot be heard or oil spots not seen then get bubbles and spray components ( refer lines, compressor, condenser coil, ect.) This way no hidden surprises for parts needed. 2.) Flushing is a great tool..you can never use too much (new refrigerants use synthetic oils or known as POE) cause old sludge, particles, or trash in the lines will not be good for new refrigerants. 3.) Tearing down that compressor. Wash all parts with flush (old mineral oils and new POE oils dont mix). When rebuilding that compressor you should have wiped it down better and wiped on new oil on ALL gaskets NO vaseline or white lithium grease. After compressor was re assembled I would have used thee old hose cut it and sealed it to put on and bench test compressor with 60psi of air and bubbles (ensuring no leaks from the fresh regasket). I would have added in thee proper amount of ounces of oil (I prefer sub zero oil as for me has has best results)to compressor prior to installing.Make sure every connection hoses, was lubricated with new oil (as each gasket benifits from not tearing or hard pressure).4.) Test system again with 60psi and let stand for 45minutes if pressure doesn't drop and no further leak let out air and prepare for vacuum5.) Your vacuum pump needs fresh oil before you start to pull a vacuum (that oil is what collects all the moisture and dirt from the system). Pulling thru a manifold doesn't allow the vacuum pump to be at full capacity. When pulling a vacuum a micron gauge HAS to be used. With the new oils vacuum levels HAVE to be achieved or the system will become acidic. 30hg is a good start to see for no leaks. Bit a micron gauge is more precise. Also you may need to change vacuum pump oil at least once to achieve a deep vacuum (below 500 microns sitting thus meaning valves closed and the system settles in the vacuum under 500 microns). 5.) Make sure you always charge refrigerant in as a liquid. This keeps the chemical make up as designed and does not fraction off the gas (heavier particles staying in can and lighter filling system first). If you my advice you will ensure a job well done. I have 25yrs to back it up.
Great video! I had an 86 Firebird with a 2.8... I could never get good airflow out of the vents. I even replaced the blower motor and never was able to get more than a breeze out of the vents.
More than likely your ac control panel has a vacuum leak or your actuator isn't working. Either one will cause it to blow the cold air out of the fresh air port under hood instead of into car.
Do you know what the NEW direct Replacement for R-12 is?Plain old PROPANE for your BBQ.Turn tank upside down and slowly fill with LIQUID propane.No oil or seals change necessary.Old HVAC dude here brother.Still better than 134...
I kept my entire system stock with the R12 setup. Flushed with the same flush used in this video and replaced the accumulator and orifice tube. Used RedTek refrigerant in it and it cools amazing. I am consistently ~40*F even on hot days.
@bluenecross keep it R12 and use RedTek. I get it locally direct from RedTek and it's crazy cheap, almost 1/2 price of R134a. There's ZERO reason to convert it.
Thank you for this video Matt! I just bought a bunch of stuff to do the AC on my 1987/1988 TA. It's a mutt. My car was a '88 305 TBI. Now hosts my '87 GTA 350 (383) parts. Love my 3rd gens! I'm hoping I catch a LS swap into the TA video, sometime. :)
@@TFD1982 I think everyone is aware he has an LS Camaro. I'm merely adding encouragement for him to do a swap on the TA, as well. I am never ever, ever sarcastic. Ever!
Damn I can see that hard work you are putting in for these videos Matt. I applaud you. Keep it going they are great and I’m cool with the other format too lol. But damn I’m glad my 76 Camino had cold a/c cuz that looks like a lot of work! I regret selling it but maybe one day I’ll get a 72 SS lol or my dream car the Cuda. Anyways thanks for the long video. Something to do on these late night shifts
@@lsxmatt looks like only 92 and it has a different fitting size. So you won't already be into custom lines. My vent temps on mine are at freezing with r134 and the ls1 stock compressor though I used the white tube. All new Spectra parts for an 89.
It's a lot of fun though. I worked on mine all day just got finished it's 11 pm . Final result ,saved a lot of money doing it myself and have working ac in my 89 Pontiac now. I did buy a rebuilt compressor from AutoZone kinda cheated a little there but did everything else in the video .
good tech vid, thanks. If ya plan on driving that 305 awhile, I would buy a cheap aluminum intake off craigslist and a cheap ebay 650 carb, idk what your gas mpg is but, it's probably way under 10mpg and the and the setup I mentioned will bump ya up to 15+mpg.....it's worth the effort for gas money savings....dump the cat at the same time...imo. Just a thought...
This was more informative than any forum or google search has been as to how to get my 85 iroc ac back up and running, although i think I'll spend a few bucks and get an auxiliary fan just for the ac because the factory fan sucks balls
As to the Air Conditioning, how about inside the car(cabin), it must get full of dust, which could clog up, the flow of air, and the drain hole, where water comes out that could get clogged up,do you also check that, the newer cars they have an air filter, which collects dust which could clog the evaporator, especially in older cars like that 33 year old Trans-AM whichnin turn could make water fall down in the floor, and make it costly, $$$, just trying to think all possible scenarios beefore it reaches that point.
Great video, basic easy to understand information thanks for not editing out the blooper @4:48. I can't understand how you didn't get more likes at the time I watched, 2,656 views 228 likes?
Hi Matt, I know this is now an old video but I have an 83 Trans am with the same A/C setup you have but the comptessor has been removed. I have a new but compressor but some of the bracketry is missing. As you've now done the LS swap on the Firebird I was wondering if you would be willing to sell me the brackets I need (if you still have them). Its the top arched bracket and the ones that bolt to the front and back of the compressor. Thank you in advance for help you can offer.
I just want the ac to work in my third gen, is that too much to ask!!?? Lol. Hey man really good job on the video. Lots of good info here. I'm converting to 134a myself . Do you know if that same blue orifice tube will work on my 89 Firebird Tpi car?
I know this is an older video however, I have an 89 camaro 305tbi with ac. I'm planning on completely redoing the ac with original airs kit. The problem is my ac box is gone, sensors too, and I'm not sure what sensors I'll need when I get my new box. I still have the factory harness though. Do you have a video talking about those sensors/where to find them?
Really helpful vid. I have one question since I recently did a more rushed version of this with my 77 Vette which appears to have the same compressor. Should the compressor housing get too hot to touch when in use? Mine seems to get very warm super quick, but other than that everything works decently. Hope you see this.
@@lsxmatt Ok thanks, I never bothered to feel the housing on a stock R12 system before so wondered if it was getting ready to seize up! I'll let it run longer now and just trust it.
I literally did my ac on my 87 yesterday. New comp and all. Does your pancake compressor rattle in gear while stopped? Mine is new and it does. Common thing im hearing. Thanks .