Last week, were you in San Pedro California. I saw a rig like yours at Brouwerij west and was so impressed I looked online and found your channel. Super cool channel. Keep up the awesome content.
I wanna break my lease and buy out my 4runner early so I can slap on some thicc tires and a lift kit soooooo badddd. Love your setup bro, your channel is a goldmine
C4 stubby bumper (winch and integrated light bar), viper cuts, after market fog lights, A-pillars lights and overhead lights with the true 33s is not only good looking but very practical setup. You nailed the front setup, bro. C4 or CBI rear swing outs with panel guard with spare, maxtrax, roto-pax mount, reverse led lights is best setup for 4runner rear bumper from 2014 to current in my opinion.
OE, recall a few videos back a guy commented that due to your engine bay not being clean, he would no longer support your channel? I think it was Mitch 😂😂😂 Great content brother!
Sick rig! Your GTR headlights would go really well with the Gen 2 Morimoto tail lights. That way you can match those cool strips in your headlight DRLs with the new Morimoto's three rows of LEDs. I have 1st Gen Morimotos front and rear, but if they go out, I may try that other combo.
You sure...stock limited bumpers definitely stick out farther and have a worse angle but you can just cut them off and bolt on a different bumper for the same angle. Is that what you are referring to?
@@OverlandEngineer I was saying all 4Runner models in stock form from Toyota even the limited model which seems to have a lower front bumper all have the same approach angle of 33/26 departure. I just wish their “off-road model” or 4wd models came with high clearance front and rear bumpers
Legitimate question. Basically its to correct your OEM sway bar geometry. Typically people lift their rig which pushes the UCA and LCA down. This in turn moves the entire spindle/hub down which moves the sway bar link mounting point down. However, the sway bar bracket location on the frame never moved...Dobinsons sells sway bar bracket spacers to keep the same sway bar links originally but if you wanted to get adjustable ones, they would essentially do the same thing. They may provide more customization though depending on your lift and potentially the mismatch of a desired lift height and the standard manufactured spacers out there. Does that answer your question? Thats for the front. The rear is for the most part similar logic, however the lift pulls the sway bar farther away because it mounts to the solid axle so the links typically just need to be longer.
Yep you can. If you go on their website you can get up to a 3.5" MRR lift. If you have really heavy duty springs they don't compress as far as the "expected ride height and lift" numbers on the dobinsons website. My rear tire to panel gap is 10". I will post a picture on my IG of the breakdown.
@@greyhounds72 Yeah that is true. My front axle to fender measurement is 24.4" and my rear is 26.4". To be fair though, everyone has 285/70/17s haha. I know there are small variations and what not but most people don't dimensions nit pick so overall it good enough.
@@OverlandEngineer yeah so stock is 20” front hub to fender and 22” rear hub to fender. Based on your IG post your stock hub to fender was 21.8” which is right in line with that. So 26.4” - 21.8” = 4.6”. Makes sense if you have the heaviest spring without the weight back there. But measuring hub to fender is basically the only way to isolate true lift height from the coils alone.
@@greyhounds72 Currently I have springs in the front rated for 220-300 lbs and currently have (59(winch)+75(lopro)+5(lightbar)+11lbs (random electronics) + 20 (ARB compressor)) = 170 lbs. In the rear I have 600-800 lb springs and probably like 200lbs if that. Its not too surprising that my MRR kit tuned for 3.5" lift front and rear would be taller than that based on the weight ratings of the springs and my actual loads.
Potentially! I bet it would be like flipping magnetic gray and black. A lot of guys have the dark gray 4Runners with black accents. I'm guessing that is the look.
Technically I have the full finn fab system but to answer your question, yep! The mattress easily fits. You have more than enough room under the shelf, its a bit of an optical allusion which is why I originally did not want a shelf but now I won't go back.
Are you at all concerned that in the event of a crash your fire extinguisher or socket set will come flying forward and hit you in the back of the head?
Valid point. There are lots of things in my car at any given time that could do something like that though. My YETI water bottle is a great contender. If you were worried, you could fasten it down better.
@@OverlandEngineer Yeah, I just bring it up because I see a lot of videos where people are mounting or carrying things in the back of their rigs with little or no regard for crash safety. Just a thought
@@greyhounds72 I'm just measuring changes due to the fenders so I suppose thats ground to fender or top of wheel to fender. Its not a ground clearance measurement. I will post my breakdown photo on my IG story and happy to answer questions or get corrected.
Hoping to regear soon but no I am not. The 34s have been surprisingly great and almost no different than 33s. I went from heavy Falken Wildpeak AT3Ws to light Toyo AT3s. My rear panels and shelf are from Finn Fab because I like the rivnut mounting interface more and the blueseas power panel integration. I have a video coming out on the whole system in the near future! I still have a bit of wiring to finish.
@@OverlandEngineer I'm thinking about going the same route - currently on Load E 33 Wildpeaks - have you noticed any difference in ride comfort with the AT3s? What about grip on/off road and wet traction? I am very happy with the wildpeaks other than how heavy they are but not many people have used both.
Awesome rig. Curious what rear hatch struts did you go with for the ladder? Also, curious how's it run on 34's, assuming no gear swap yet? or maybe not needed?
If you go to the description of my summit ladder video (linked in description) I have the struts linked there. Running the Toyo AT3 34s was basically identical to Falken WildPeak 33s due to the weight savings. Since I have the beadlocks too, the wider look of the 285s is awesome. I love having the bigger tire. No regear but with my throttle grenade the 4Runner is still plenty fast.
@@OverlandEngineer awesomeeee, thanks for the quick response! Love the build. especially your center console, that oem look with the switches and plug for your radio was pretty rad.
@@PAWulf6 The key is I don't hahaha. I really want to find someone who has a lift and heated shop this winter and hit everything I can with a wire wheel and use some paint on unbody paint and rust neutralizer. I saw it on an XOverland episode for their third gen and it looks more effective than wool wax and won't make it annoying to wrench.
Awesome truck! I think you meant “off-roading” as opposed “over landing”. The 4 Runner is a great off road vehicle but hardly capable of true over landing with a range of about 150-200 miles (overland range). Compared to a true overlander (LC Prado; Toyota HiLux) which has 400-500 mile range. A big fuel tank (30 gal) and turbo-diesel 4 cylinder makes a big difference. Still, a very nice truck for a weekend trip to the mountains. Just not over landing!
Thanks! No, I meant overlanding...offroading and overlanding are both very vague terms. At this point you have to use overlanding as a keyword because its what most people are familiar with or its what they search even if they aren't technically overlanding. Who even knows what overlanding is...many people define it differently. I'm on 35s and regeared now getting about 12 miles per gallon. Typically see like 18-19 gallons to E so thats about 210 ish miles. Long range america sells an auxiliary tank to add an additional 24 gallons. So thats like 290 miles. Basically gets the rig up to 500 miles. Plus I have many friends getting 14-16 with 33" setups and that would be 580-660 ish miles. We don't have Prados and Hiluxes or deisels in america so the 4Runner and Tacoma are the best we got and with a few select mods people can get the same performance in my mind. (I wish we could get the diesels!)
Get rid of the overpriced on air systems and get a PowerTank. One minute per tire and I'm done. I would never go back to any type of Compressor system.
Says he overlands, has pretty much nothing geared for overlanding. It’s a nice truck, I just fail to see what it provides as far as livability off grid. Maybe I should become a RU-vidr… Everything on my rig is function first. Idiot proof (kiss) and build to last.
Very nice, Zach! Have you had any issues with water intrusion with the aftermarket head/taillight units? Do you know which units are best to avoid because of that problem? Thanks.
No water intrusion issues. I’ve heard that most brands that are on the cheap side can be taken apart and new water sealing added and they are almost good as new and high quality. I’ve heard a lot of people do that. As far as specific brands, I don’t really know ones that always fail but I know Alpharex, GTR, and Morimoto make good products.
Awesome cinematic intro 🎬 with slow pans and great use of lighting, color, and reflection. Epic music in sync. That takes a ton of work. Love the C4 bumper and sliders. Those are on my wish list! Good use of space in the back, I think I might do the same! Love the build, especially the lighting / electrical work. Lots to think about here… Thanks for making this video!
Thanks! Yeah, C4 makes some really clean but bulletproof armor. The storage in the back is awesome because you get your trunk back for running around town or hitting the hardware store.
What’s your favorite mounting systems/hardware for the Kammok awning? In this video you have a Sherpa mount (which one?). Is that the mount you liked the best or did you find something you like better?
Love the content man! I watched your other video on the SPC upper control arm, I want to run the same tire size as you with a 3in lift. What caster setting should I do? Also do you think I could get a way with not getting a BMC right away with 285/75/r17?
The only tire I have seen survive without a BMC is a 285/70/17 with a zero offset rim. If I had to bet, you will rub on and offroad without a BMC. As for caster, the more the better to fit tires but there is only so much your lowers can adjust to so if the shop knows what they are doing, then can max out your lower control arms then dial it in from there is the SPCs.
Nice ride man! I got the daytona floor jack after watching your video, thank you! I might have missed it but why did you switch from the Yokohama Geolandar 003?
No particular reason. I thought they were quite good in the snow but I wanted the best. I also just test different tires and sizes a lot for the sake of research haha.
Thanks! Yep! Just had them all put together then took them in. It's just important that you install the TPMS beforehand because often tire shops just do that for you silently and its something that will slip your mind haha.
Dude! This truck is excellent! I’m debating whether or not I should trade in my Rubicon gladiator for a GX 460. It would be for my wife, but of course I would have to slightly modify it.
Thanks! I typically do, strapped in the trunk. This trip I couldn’t with my wife and Otis along and I knew the trails were easy enough. I have plans to keep it on a spare tire mount on the back of the rig.
That's the best part of the RRW beadlock rims. I promise they are 285/75/17s but they look much wider and beefy. Best of both worlds if you are not regeared.
@@OverlandEngineer appreciate the reply. I have the RR7 but run the tires as a regular fitment. So IF i beadlock them, they'll look beefy like yours??!!
@H Haha, it's that easy!😂. Yeah I presume it probably adds a 10-20 mm width bump on the wheel. I noticed it because I have a friend with a tacoma with the identical wheel and we parked next to each other one day and looking head on it was clearly wider. They may be slightly short because they are pulled wider but that doesn't bother me too much.
Just FYI, before I was a lineman I was a mechanic. If electrical goes wrong in your car, all that wiring that is everywhere going to all your lights and refrigerators and air tanks is a huge problem. Mechanics hate those. Diagnosis with electrical becomes 1000x more complicated with all that stuff. The worst problems we have discovered are because of them.
