Pro-tip: brake fluid doesn’t evaporate. Brake fluid levels indicate brake wear and are a good indication that it is time to replace your brake pads. If your brake fluid is at or below the low level on the reservoir, check for leaks and pad thickness. I personally just change my brake fluid every time I replace the pads, but do absolutely follow your manufacturer’s specifications for service intervals and fluid type.
1:57 this really is important. I chose a sport tire that was recommended for bikes from 300's to 1,000's. I paid for a tire and when I got there they said they didn't have the exact tire that I was looking for, but had one that was on par, just from a different company. I said, okay, that should work - later on, after I had already driven the bike, I found out that the tire they decided to put on was actually the wrong f'ing tire. Now, had I known this, I would have told them to order the RIGHT tire that I initially wanted instead of listening to the guy who was supposedly a certified Yamaha tech. Don't listen to anybody at the shop, because they may not know what the hell they're talking about. If you've done your own research and have selected your own tire, gear, whatever - go with what you've already chosen, even if you have to wait for it. Because I ended up spending $250+ for a new tire and mounting that wasn't even right.
Very cool video. I would add something. The fluids added need to be the exact specs required by the bike. This is particularly true of brake fluid. Also, be sure that you picked up brake fluid off your workbench and not transmission fluid (frequently the containers look the same) like I did at one point. The wrong fluid in your brake system will completely destroy all the rubber components in your brake system, not slowly, but rapidly as in the next time you're on the road. Once you have done it, it's already too late, you will need a completely new and replaced braking system. Draining and refilling will not fix this situation. Similarly, there are different dot brake fluids and they are not interchangeable.
Okay so i can get ahold of a 05 cbr1000rr with 19.5k miles on it for 2700 from a buddy just had forks rebuilt ,valves adjusted at the local honda and new michelin road 6's think its a good deal ?or should i avoid it due to mileage also not my first liter bike
19,500 miles is nothing so long as the bike hasn't been trashed........ I only had two new bikes but mostly second hand with minimum 15,000 miles and would normally get 100,000 to 130,000 before they died, became unrepairable or were written off.
Recently discovered how badly brakes can make your day go. Thankfully wasn't going very fast, but front brakes locked up on a wet day. On a side note, the small hard case wallet in my back pocket literally saved my butt from some road rash. Fun times.
I've worked in automotive repair shops for years, I can't count the number of times I've found "black swamp water" in a brake fluid reservoir so when I bought my first bike I started looking at the brake fluid. Glad to see bikes do seem to be better taken care of in my experience. That being said, I have owned nothing but brand new cars the last 10 years.....
Go with michelin tyres and always check air pressure at least once a few weeks or so. Michelin tyres are amazing. Don't save a few bucks to risk your life by getting cheap Chinese ones
Your channel was the first one to get me itching to hop on a bike and after a year, I’m finally riding and learning. Still a novice with a lot to learn but I appreciate informative vids like this to help me take care of my bike and get the most out of it
lol me too! I also have an R7 I took off road also. I mean hardcore trails and mud… goes without saying I dropped them both…. Multiple times. Loved it!
TPMS - 40 bucks. Tutoro automatic chain oiler - 120 bucks. Those two items alone make the pre-ride check so much easier. Added bonus, the chain oiler has tripled lifespan of my chains.
I recently replaced my still good stock brake pads with EBC sintered pads on my Z900. Money well spent! So much better. Also ride with Pirelli Diablo Rosso IV tyres. I run 34/40psi at 77kgs and ride hard through the twisties … 🎉
I recently had to have my front fork seals replaced, alongside my chain. I can't even begin to tell you how drastically improved the ride felt after the work was done. It cost me almost $1,500 and three weeks of waiting on parts and labor, but it was worth doing.
2025 tyres will have state of the art technology rubber compound that will make it much harder for the tyre to slip or lock up. But motogp already has it.
I rode my Buddies bike and his Chain was so Lose it came off but I was going very fast only about 15 MPH when it came off because I was in a Parking lot
Did I miss the part in the suspension part , where you state that the forks and shock service interval on most bikes is somewhere between 3,000 and 5,000 miles? First question I ask when looking at any used bike (off, on road, or dirt bike) is when was the suspension bearings and fluids last serviced. Then when I hear and offer what I feel is a fair lower price, they get pissed.
FYI make sure you CLEAN THE CALIPER .. pucks ... bleed brake caliper OFF the rotor... put a 2mmish piece of wood.. use a old wooded ruler..bewteen the pads when cleaning, bleeding, bleed LH to RH for cross-over lines ... make sure you clean BOTH sides of your discs w/ a good contact cleaner, Brakleen .. and a Scotchbrite pad... or 1000 grit wet sandpaper.. if your pads are good, but stopping power hasd dminished.. again use 1000 grit wet sandpaper on the pad contact surface.. and discs.. clean residue off... you'll stop
