There was a channel dedicated to blow up motors and I think it was called for science. He even made a motor wars series where the motors would fight each other 😂
I was 7 or 8 years old, while playing with my Tamiya motor, I had the bright idea of plugging it in to a direct 220v socket. One burned hand and a tripped circuit breaker later made me learn my lesson to not fck with electricity😂😂
I once had the bright idea of plugging my phone directly to the 120v outlet. Luckily I wasn't smart enough to expose the usb wires. Rather, I tapped the live contacts with the usb connector that shorted, blew up and popped the fuse. Did I learn my lesson? Nope because I did the exact same thing with a tiny LED and this time with the added smell of burnt materials and shocking myself😭 father electro boom has taught me well
@@kristinefuentenegrawhen i was 8 yrs old i have a bright idea plugging a 12V LED To a 220V when i plugged it it exploded and it caught on fire funny enough when I was 9 my phone charges very slow and plugged it to a 24V power supply and the phone screen popped.
I used to run a slot car track ( both 1/24 and 1/32 ) the cars motors were mostly 12 volt DC with over 100amps available !. I also rewound those tiny Mabuchie motors to about 1volt ( winding about 12 winds of #28 wire on the 3 pole armature going to a ceramic comutater, THEN epoxi the windings then staticley balance the armature and we regularly got well over 125,000 OUT OF THEM!! But only for a few seconds, the motors were controled by a hand controller with a MASSIVE reostat inside, you only used full throttle for a split second as those tiny motors would propell those cars to nearly 100 mbh on a slot car track straightaway , as you only used full throttle for about 1/3 of a second it didnt burn out the motors or cause them to explode. This was in the early to mid 1960s
@@notpoliticallycorrect1303 yea and BOY did they get HOT on a long race!! They even had been noted to MELT IN YOUR HAND TOO!! ( as the controler body was made of plastic, but the race track had the power of a FORK LIFT battery behind it, tho some smaller tracks used two or three TRUCK BATTERYS hooked up in parallel, for the availablebility of over 300amps to the track ( each lane had a 50amp circet breaker on it) and the track had six to eight lanes, all the tracks I was involved with were 12volt some drag strips ( 1/24 scale ) had 24volts tho!! ( A looong time ago, slot cars pretty much died out by 1967, tho I have heard that a few tracks exist in Florida and in California!!.
@@earlwheelock7844 it has definitely shrunk, but it still exists! I've done a bit of metal chassis racing but not to the point of rewinding motors etc, and now right at the top end they've started using brushless "DC" motors. Not much more power if any, but much less time spent preparing them! Most controllers now (for brushed motors) have the heat-making components (mosfets etc) separated from the grip, and the grip just sends a signal to those to regulate track voltage. It's partly to keep from burning your hands, partly to reduce resistance in the circuit. With the current the fastest motors draw...!
SORRY but my reaction times have slowed down a BUNCH, as I am now in my 80s, another thing , we now have rare earth magnets about 5 times stronger than the old ceramic ones. ( I now do r/c model airplanes , electric ) you have to have lightning fast reaction times to be competitive in slot car racing!!
A few years ago I was given an little Only fools and horses rc Reliant three wheeled van as a present,made in china of course.I took mine to work and as it turned out the young lad who works for me got one too.Soon we were having races at lunch time around the workshop.It got quite competitive,we had rules that it must remain as the van and you cant just bolt the body to a better base,cue a host of modifications to gain an edge,little carboard spoilers,neoprene rings on the back tyres for better top speed etc. I eventually secretly opted for fit a 4 way AA battery cartridge on top of the original battery box to supplement the four it already ran on,giving the option of 4,6 or 8. I initially tried 9 volts/6 AA's,which made it markedly quicker,then after running for ages without issue and being curious tried 8 batteries. I expected it to not work,or fail quickly given the little board in the van was now also getting 12 instead of 6 volts, but 7 or 8 years later,it's battered but still works and is still stupidly fast for what it is,I've told my 'opponent' it's all down to reducing friction,he's tried everything and then some😂 I dont know wether to be impressed that the cheap components can handle double their initial design or that they are so bad that it doesn't matter,I only hope the same factory doesn't make medical or aeronautical stuff😂.
Hmmm, now listen. Companies try to be careful when advertising motors, but really, it's fine to go a FEW volts over their specified voltage. It's fine to have a 12V motor be ran by 15 or even 18V, just be careful.
pretty fun video, this is like watching curling. Im not sure about what the rules are, the content is good to look at and the game in my head is to find out what the " rules " are. I dont know too much about DC motors and seeing the different outcomes makes me understand just enough to be exited too watch the next one, hoping to find the key to understanding what makes them burn out
This reminds me of something terribly stupid that I did when I was a kid: My father had a variable voltage PSU that went up to 24V, and multiple 1.5V-3V and 12V motors from car radiocasettes. I got a liking to blowing up motors as seen on the video, but the PSU didn't go high enough to blow the 12V motors so I had a "genius" idea: To plug the 12V motor into the 220V mains of the house. You can imagine how it went... The motor inmmediatly exploded with a big bang and I went pale. Luckily the metal casing saved my hands, and the short circuit protection of the house triggered and saved me from certain electrocution. I learned a big lesson that day and didn't tell my father, who by the way is an electrician and would probably call me every insult he knew.
It is confirmed that smoke and fire make motors run. Most seem to fail around 30v the same voltage that they tend to blow up in toys. Now can you do the same thing but with an assortment of sound chips out of various toys as they should all blow around 7v
We did that in the 80's with toy race car track and build a huge straight for drag racing! And the rubber burnt! Used 12v as they were I think 3v original!
Me and my friend are making this RC 787. It's a pretty big plane, and the 3D printed fuselage is a bit heavy. Maybe overclocking the EDFs might help...
When I was a little boy I would play with these little motors all the time. You could buy a few different sizes at the local surplus store for next to nothing. One time I got the bright idea to cut a wall plug off of something and wire one of these little motors directly into the wall. It's been a good 20 years and I still remember the moment I plugged it into the wall lmao. Not a great idea.
I know in the 150 size motor slot car world that there is the Tamiya Plasma dash rated at 25000 rpm and the Doyusha 150 rated at 50000 rpm. I’d love to see you test those. I’m trying to get motors at 12 volts to consistently go at 80000 rpm without becoming too unreliable and would like to see how far these motors can be pushed.
It appears that the main failure mode of brushed dc motors is the brush assembly overheating and melting the brush contacts in other into a short? Or is it electricity arc across the brush contact pads from the high rpm + over-voltage potential basically bridging the contacts into a shorted state?
I disassembled the motors, and the smaller ones often fail by the copper brushes deforming. On the larger ones with carbon brushes the commutator is often overheated and releases from the rotor body, and burnt windings.
@@Cskirt That makes sense. The commutator/brush contacts do seem that they’d be the point of highest resistance, just by nature of being a moving contact point. Also there is undoubtedly contact-switching noise generated by the winding inductance coupled with the magnetic field as the poles are rotated by the commutator. Is that what the ceramic cap across the contacts is for? probably to reduce emi by giving a path to short the switching noise to ground. I wonder if the amount or length of time a motor can withstand over voltage would differ between two identical motors one with the cap and the other without? My guess is it wouldn’t make much difference because of the substantial levels of over voltage that the components are being subjected to. I enjoyed watching these motors quickly retire from service, anyhow!
Some of these little motors have such a wide sound range while revving up, you could make real music with them, if you pull specific notes out, and arrange them, with an audio editing program. Also, it's kind of funny how the bushes resemble an arc welder when they've worn down!😂
I did this experiment 40 years ago......... Plugged the motor in to 240AC...... Out come was exploding motor, burnt my chest oh and blind over night...... Test completed
Could you please do this again and submerge the electrical end vertically in mineral oil with the end of the shaft poking out for speed measurement. It should keep the slightly cooler by a few seconds and eliminate the sparking, and really go til she blows. If you do, do this make sure to carefully submerge them so there is no air trspped in or around them!
There are a few people that have suggested this, and I'm actually in the store right now getting more electric screwdrivers 😄. I'll try to film this weekend or maybe next week
